LiveOak

Yeah......the key trick thing is only supposed to work on 2000 through 2002 models.

If you have to send in oil samples to run extended oil drain intervals like this........unless the costs for mailing and testing are very small, I just don't see the value in doing this. If would seem to me that that cost of buying a mail pouch, oil sample bottle, paying postage, and paying the oil sample testing would out weigh the cost of extended oil drain intervals at least on out trucks. Now on an N14 that holds FAR more oil (10 gallons give or take depending upon configuration) and more expensive filters, this is a "whole nuther story".

Hi Randy! Thanks for dropping by and joining in the conversation! FYI, I am TFF Admin, on another forum.

That is what we are on the net for ISX. By the way Olivers are cool! They have been out of production for a long time but many came with the Waukesha engine. They were VERY well built and performed well and were very reliable. They reminded me of a cross between a Cummin and the old Detroit 2 Stroke Diesels. Oliver has been out of business for a LONG time and Waukesha has undergone corporate restructuring but they still make a QUALITY engine. http://www.waukeshaengine.com/ Drop by for a looksee, register, and post your problems with the tractor. I am sure someone on the forum can help you out.

Which Lucas additive do you use? Both the fuel additive and oil extender are insanely expensive.

Good to meet you Tom!

Thanks for pointing that out. There was not much profile info. and I "assumed" it was the IP. My bad.

Perhaps I missed where you mentioned it but have you tried replacing the fuel filter?

This is the first I have seen of this forum section.

The ECM provides power to run the lift pump. It was designed to run ONE PUMP. I suspect if the ECM is running both pumps, this may be causing problems. You can make some jumper wires with allegator clips to run directly from the battery to the Airtex pump and check its pressure. I think I would remove the Mr. Gasket pump. Sounds like someone did some hookey wiring job to cut corners. Anything other than a stock or stock type replacement pump that draws the same or very similar amperage should be run directly off the batteries with a relay. The ECM can handle a stock OEM type lift pump but not a larger performance pump. Running a larger pump off of the ECM is asking for the dissaster of burning out the ECM pump power supply in my opinion. I have an Airtex e7153 pump relocated to the frame below the fuel tank and pushing through a 1/2" Big Line Kit through the OEM filter housing all the way up to the IP with 1/2" line. Just bumping the starter, static pressure was about 20 psi new, once I start the engine the fuel pressure drops to about 17-18 psi idling. Max WOT load pressure drops down to about 8-10 psi. Not perfect but works well for the wife on a stock truck. If your truck is not stock, get the Air Dog or FASS. The Mr. Gasket pump is a gas fuel pump. The seals and pump output may not be compatible with diesel fuel nor the output of the pump adequate to provide the fuel volume a diesel requires under a load.

Dave, I have edited in more comments and links. This ABSOLUTELY IS an IP issue since the P0216 code is latched. The timing piston is seized up inside the IP and will no longer allow ANY timing changes. The IP may run indefinitely in this condition, but the condition is PERMANENT and will NOT go away. This is what killed my IP in my 2002. The truck still ran fine but my fuel economy went to crap and it would hestate and stumble on low boost acceleration. With the other IP codes you have that are latched in the ECM, eventually the VP-44 rotor will likely seize up and the engine will die immediately. In a nutshell, your IP is on borrowed time. The IP rarely dies instantly but gradually will display various codes and performance symptoms. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html Murphy's Law dictates that the IP will fail and kill the engine at the ABSOLUTE WORST possible time. The P0500 sensor code has NOTHING to do with the IP or your engine performance issue. If you drive off road, slip one tire in mud, gravel, etc., this will latch the 0500 code. I get them all the time as I am off road a good bit. Changing the VSSB will do nothing other than to empty your wallet and work you for nothing. In all likihood, that hard right turn is causing the P0500 code. The IP codes are NOT caused by poor electrical connections. Not trying to be the party pooper here, just trying to help you get your truck fixed and get right to the problem and spend as little money as possible. At the VERY least (and this is HIGHLY inadvisable), you can test the lift pump pressure. If the lift pump is dead, replace it with the Airtex e7153 lift pump in the OEM stock location on the side of the engine. Test to verify good pressure at the IP schrader valve after replacing the lift pump. You can install a steering wheel mounted fuel pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure. ANY time it drops below 10-12 psi, I suggest replacing the fuel filter. I have to replace the fuel filter on the wife's truck about every 3500-4000 miles. I use the Baldwin PF7977. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/scp.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ISSPRO-EV-fuel-pressure-Kit-p/issfp.htm The Big Line kit make tapping into the fuel system MUCH easier. Call Eric at Vulcan and ask him to send you the correct fittings to do this when you order the fuel pressure gauge and mount. This will get you back on the road but I want to emphasize that this is a half assed fix. Eventually the IP will crap out and you will have to address that problem too. If you decide to add ANY engine power modifications, you will have to install the Air Dog or FASS. The engine in all likihood may run for a very long time (read years) or it could crap out tomorrow. It is a crap shoot. Your call on the reliability to save money. I hope this helps get you back on the road again but you have to decide how you want to approach fixing the problem. My experience has taught me to fix it right the FIRST time and it will cost a good bit up front but a lot less overall.

0122= Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low 0500= No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal (common codes due to rear tire slipage) 1757= Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI When Request Is 0 PSI (injector pump issue) 1762= Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage (injector pump issue) 1693= DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM (companion code to alert that other codes are set) 0216= Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure (one a number of injector pump death codes) This link will provide a bit more detail of the codes: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/common-errors.htm In my opinion, your VP-44 fuel injection pump is TOAST. It may not be communicating properly with the ECM and APPS thus latching the APPS codes or you may have an APPS problem in addition to the injector pump. Did you have dead pedal issue long before the engine power problem. I would strongly recommend you purchase a new injector pump AND an Air Dog or FASS along with a 1/2" Big Line Kit. A full set of in cab gauges are a MUST to monitor fuel pressure, boost, and egt. It sounds like you are still running the OEM Carter fuel lift pump which is a piece of junk and will not provide adequate fuel pressure or volume through the stock OEM fuel lines. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. In the interim, I would recommend you obtain a fuel pressure test gauge and test your fuel system pressure: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Pressure-Tester-with-Schrader-Connection-p/fpt.htm This gauge tests pressure at the schrader valve on the VP-44 IP. You can buy an injector pump and fuel lift pump as a package deal at many retailers, shop around for prices and service. http://www.mwfi.com/VP44.htm http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/airdog/fuel-system.htm http://www.vp44pumps.com/VP44-Injection-pump-and-Air-Dog-100-VP44027X-A1SPBD001.htm http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/260.htm It would be VERY wise to install the Big Line Kit while installing the injector pump and new fuel lift pump: http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/vpps9804.htm The fuel lift pumps are expensive but well worth it. The Air Dog or FASS are both good pumps. http://www.fassride.com/ http://www.pureflowairdog.com/ If you are going to leave the engine pretty much stock, you can get by very well with an Airtex e7153 fuel lift pump PROVIDED it is relocated on the frame with a Big Line Relocation Kit. http://www.airtexproducts.com/TSB/TSB-0407-01.pdf http://compare.ebay.com/like/150467880779?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&rvr_id=119473517972&crlp=1_263602_263632&UA=WVI7&GUID=db2fa7cb1290a02652f215c2ff0c4602&itemid=150467880779&ff4=263602_263632 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=203&partnum=E7153&a=FR203-E7153-56391 I have the Airtex e7153 fuel lift pump installed on the wife's truck and it works fine as long as you leave the engine stock and install a fuel pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure drop in the event of a plugged up fuel filter. You have a quite a few decisions to make ahead of you. I am sure others will jump in with their suggestions. Personally, I feel the best route is to buy the Air Dog or FASS, Big Line Kit, and install all of these with the new injector pump. THEN take a look at the other codes to observe if they are still latching and causing problems.

I bought a Frantz bypass filter a good while back but have not installed it in part due to really crappy weather and in large part due to my frustration with finding what I feel is an adequate and maintenance friendly location to mount the filter and run the oil lines. I have read the write-up and looked at the pics of Mike's install. I may end up doing it this way in the end but I wanted to get as many pictures of how the filter mounting installation is done before I make my decision. I want to keep it simple and drill as few holes and cut as little as possible and hopefully not at all. I would appreciate it if you guys who have the Frantz filter installed show me your pictures of how you installed and mounted the filter as well as ran the oil lines. Any other comments and suggestions welcome as well. TIA!

Any codes? Fuel pressure reading? Possibility of bad or contaminated fuel in the tank?

I used to run ONLY Fleetguard LF3894 Stratapore filters but after doing a bit of reading and price comparison, I found that Baldwins makes EVERYBIT as good if not a better filter in my opinion for less than half the price. I use ALL Baldwin filters on my trucks with the exception of the Air Dog 150 filters and apparently Fleetguard is the only manufacturer I am aware of for these. A Fleetguard LF 3894 crosses over to a Baldwin BT7349: http://catalog.baldwinfilter.com/PartImages/BT7349.jpg If you purchase these filters by the case of 12 through BF Web Express, the cost is $4.79 each. http://www.bfwebexpress.com/default.htm

I think that right there is a key factor. IF our markets provided 45-50 cetane fuel standard across the board, there would not be near the need for diesel fuel additives. I know of NO place one can go to buy premimum 45-50 cetane diesel. In Europe, this is a standard and required for diesel to be 50 cetane. Here is the states we are lucky to get 40 cetane fuel. I think most of use use additives and/or 2 stroke oil not because of any scientific data proving its worth or need but because it is CHEAP insurance in the event the fuel is of a crappy quality. Crappy quality seems to be a plague sweeping across America at the moment.

Welcome to the forum! If you installed your own injector pump, I suspect you have a good bit to offer with respect to knowledge as you have been there and done it. Installing an injector pump no easy feat to accomplish. Nicely done!

I think that chart lays out the btu content of the basic fuel stock with regards btu content. Adding a fuel additive to a fuel that raises the cetane value of a fuel stock, I don't think this reduces that fuel stocks btu content but lowers the ignition delay. Thus actually raising the quality of the fuel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetane_number

Sounds pretty interesting. I guess the next step is to field some limited test solar roads to observe how they perform in an actual vehicle road environment. I can imagine that this type of road would be VERY expensive to build but if it could pay for itself during its service life, it would be a great thing. I wonder what the costs and service life of such a road would be per mile? I think a GREAT place to test bed this type of road structure would be at airports first, then test it on actual roads. Airports have HUGE areas of tarmack that would be ideal for testing with heavy air traffic.

Enjoy the trip and have fun. Maybe it is cooler further up North.

I use Walmart Super Tech 2 stroke oil in the gallon container and Amalgamated TDR-S forumula during Summer: http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/tdr-s.aspx and TDR-WDA during Winter: http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/tdr-wda.aspx

The wife's 2001 is actually a 2001.5. It has the rear disk brakes and a few other goodies. Not sure if that make a difference or not.

I was gonna say that ISX needs to share the gañjā weed he is smoking with the rest of us! That must a been some really good weed!

I held my nose and bought 4 quarts of Castrol Synthetic Motorcycle oil at Walmart the other day. It was all they had left and I needed it to do an oil change on my ATV's. Castrol is BP too. It is a 60 mile round trip to Walmart and the only game in town. As a rule I buy NOTHING from BP but sometimes you get into a bind. Go ahead and throw the rotten tomato's.......I deserve it.

I modified my fuel basket with the same drawstraw and it works well but the fuel sending unit is all goobered up. I discovered this fact when my truck died in the midle of nowhere with about a 1/3 of a tank of fuel still showing on the gauge. My gauge is accurate to just below a half tank. I no longer run my fuel tank below a half tank. I usually fill up before a half tank.