jgendr

Ok let's revisit this thing logically; The truck starts fine and Idles when you hit the accelerator pedal it immediately jumps to 1200-1300 RPM. If I plug in the Edge comp box It throw's a P0236 map sensor code. If I plug in the factory harness The P0236 clears. All Things being equal Yes I do have a hard P1689 code and have performed the resistance tests and all is clean no ground faults or opens. If the ECM is still throwing codes like it should to the pcm and Triggering the Fuel Pump Relay to let the truck run and idle. and the Apps is telling the ecm to ramp up RPM's and the ECM is telling the VP44 to ramp RPM's But the VP44 just triggers a High Idle. Common sence points to the VP44 as bieng dead and not the ECM like the troubleshooting steps says. Boggled and confused??? So am I Honest opinion from yall, we have a 50/50 chance of getting this right. If you were in this situation what would you change first the VP44 or the ECM and why???? Honest question!!! JG

I'll call him monday after I perform the P1689 harness test to make sure it's the ECM or not. Let Ya'll know what I find out. --- Update to the previous post... Well after ohming out the harness All's good!!! All the checks are within spec. SUCKS TO BE ME, So now I'm looking at either the VP44 or the ECM as bad!! I'm starting a 50/50 Bid pool and to which one is bad any takers??? $10 a bid HE HE HE!!! maybe I can get enough to help offset the cost ROFLMAO!!!!

Make absolutly sure there is no box / power adder is plugged in first, some boxes are under the hood and you may not know if it's there if your not the original owner. with my edge plugged in I had a hard set P0236 and couldn't clear it. bought a new map sensor ($190) and plugged it up and had the same p code. unplugged the edge box ans plugged in the factory connector codes cleared. Thats how i found out my edge comp was toast!! takeing that ($190) part back!! Yea!!! but still may need an ECM or VP.

The only problem with having separate nights is you'll have the east coast west coast thing like tupac!!!! ROFLMAO. Lets set tuesdays for 7pm Eastern and central and thursdays for 7pm mountain and pacific. That way If the west coasters can jump on early on tuesdays if they want to join in and the east coaster's can stay up late if they want to join in on thursdays. We also need some peeps to take turns hanging on chat on tuesdays from say 7pm eastern to 9 pm central thats 3 hrs, and some peeps willing to do the same for the west coasters starting a 7pm thursdays mountain till 9 pm Pacific. What ya think?

$h1T I had to open my Big Mouth!!!!!! :banghead: Guess I still aint figured how to keep it shut after 12 years of marrage!!!!

ROFLMAO!!! Michael your an opertunist!!! LOL!!!

Maybe do like we use to and have a chat Night say Tuesdays at 8pm eastern time so all members can join in and get to meet that folks on a mor personal basis. Just a thought

In stock form our Tq Convertors have a single clutch disk that is electronically enegaged when lockup is called for. In the tripple loc Tq convertors there are 3 disks and steels between them being engaged the same way. The reason Dodge engineers build a single disk was to save money and give plenty of clearance for just this situation ( expansion / contraction due to temp changes) When the after market convertor makers figured that they can fit 3 disks in there ( trippleing the load capabilities ) the game was on!!! 3 disks in the space of 1 something has to be compromised. and that is space ( ie torerances ). As temp gets colder fluid get's more dense and steele expands and or contracts, even .001" - .003" makes a huge difference in side there. .005 by most respects is still considered a interferance fit unless high pressure oil fills the gap.. --- Update to the previous post... I would almost bet money that those of us that are having this problem could benifit from trying a tranny product like this: http://www.zmax.com/micro_lubricant/automotive/ I haven't tried it yet cause I never payed much mind to the problem. let me know if any of you try it and how it works??? I got to get my ECM/ VP issue ironed out first before I can try it. Just a thought!!!

Was this the scan tool you were talking about last night??? would it work in my case for reading the data stream??? or were you meaning something more ?

I'd find out if the $139 one had the hoses included, It didn't look like it. I may be wrong. But $139 + hoses is still in the neighborhood of $160. It really don't matter which one you get they bothe looked the same and are price the same or close enough. It's your choice LOL!! Happy shopin!!! JG

Ran my Hy35 for atleast 2 years with the turn buckle and never had any problems with it. I would get in the neighborhood of 30 -32 psi max. stepped up to the HX35 cause I found one on the cheap. I'm running from 35 - 40 psi now. Not much over the hy but just that little bit. It was explaind to me that a good rule of thumb is for every pound of boost you produce you get 10 hp. so you can roughly estimate your Hp by multiplying you current boost by 10 and that is what your pulling roughly!!! You don't have to worry about the engine too much unless your pushing between 50 and 60 psi. at that pressure you start blowing head gaskets. To overcome that you Oring the heads and block and use studs for extra clamping power. Then you can push upwards of 100 psi of boost. That's when you really need to hold on ROFLMAO!!!

If the truck was already warmed up or previously started and broke free or the outside temps are above 60-65 you usually don't have the problem. it's on the initial start after the truck has sat in colder temps for like a few hours or overnight. After seeing the video that I didn't watch the first time around I got me to thinking, Yes mind seems to break free easier in R than it does in Drive. Usually I pull it in r first to break it free and then give it some fuel before droppin it in D. Unlike his Mine will stall in R or D depending on outside temp. the colder it is the longer it takes to stop the stalling, but with in 2 minutes of driving it's all fine once I get it moving and freed up.

Yup Those be the ones, but due your shopping cause I think you can find them cheaper, here's harbor's version with the case too: http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html

My guess is that the map sensor is fine and doing what it is supose to do and tell the ecm that the boost is too high, which it may be happening. Now why is it happening??? that's the question, I bet if you pulled your turbo off and check the Exhaust side it's caked with soot and carbon causeing the wastgate to stick closed. now how to fix it??? He He He!!! run some Lucas in your fuel or Marvel mystery oil in your fuel. Runn about 2 tanks with atleast a full bottle of each in a full fuel up. while that mix is in there, here's the fun part, RUN IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!! reason being you need the mix to build up in the exhaust and you also need to build up high EGT heat in there to burn out the carbon. Try it and let me know. if you do a lot of conservative driving with the low sulfer fuel out there now a days there has been issues of crabon buildup in the exhaust. so it's good to get out on the highway and hammer that puppy every now an then. jg

Ok there are a lot of smart thinkers here and I belive you all are over thinking the problem. No disrespect intended. I have had this problem since the first time the weater turned cold after my sun Coast tranny was installed. It is a really tight tranny, Really tight!!! 1. the triple loc is 91% convertor, stock is 87% 2. Kevlar clutches with additional clutches in the clutch packs3 billet shafting I know this issue very well!! As temps Drop outside the parts internal to the tranny tend to expand. Due to the tight tolerance with this type of set up you loose clearances when parts expand. tighter tolerances means more friction to overcome. More friction overpowers the Idle hp of our trucks and thus it Stalls. Also SunCoast recomends using Dextron in their trannies versis AFT+4. ATF+4 has friction modifiers that let's things slip more where Dextron does not. Anybody have a clue what the hp rateing of our truck is at Idle???? I'm guessing about 60 - 80 hp. Not a lot there. at say 1300 - 1500 rmps you could have as much as 100 -150 hp plus the inertia to break the resistance. once the resistance is broke and the tranny fluid gets between the moving parts the tranny is fine. Yes the convertor is tight too, adding to the friction. your basically in a lockup condition on startup but you dont feel it because the input clutches of the tranny are slipping. when you put the truck in gear you feel the load and boom the engine stalls. So is it the convertor or is it in the tranny clutches? My bet it's the convertor. what would happen if you had a manual lock up switch that locked the convertor, as you slow down and the tranny downshifts and gets into 1st gear. at a complete stop the engine would stall out due to being locked up and not spinning just like a manual tranny unless you push the clutch in. the 47 RE tranny is supose to unlock the convertor in the shift from 2nd to 1st or when you let up on the go pedal thus free wheeling. On colder days the clearances in the convertor is actually in a lockup condition. No electronics will show you this becase it's a mechanical lock not electronic lock. It just the nature of the beast when you trade out stock with performance parts. Deal with it as you have by: knowing it's gonna happen and either start the truck earlier and let it warm up or brute force it by slamming it into gear with a little throttle. or choose to replace the convertor with a single disk and risk slipping it under load. JG

The heater relay is in the fuse box under the hood, and it shouldn't be $80 by anymeans!!! It's a standard relay just like the Fuel pump and horn relay. The heater that they are talking about is the one that is under your air horn on the intake. It heats the air beforeyou start the truck. That's the Wait to start light you see when you go to start the truck. and you'll also notice the engine drags a bit when you start it up in cold weather. That is the heater cycling to keep the air warm untill the enging warms up to opeating temp. As to the waste gate, the waste gate does not open untill you reach 20 - 25 psi of boost. that is because of the spring load that you felt while trying to push it with the screwdriver. If it is an HX 35 w/ a boost elbow you can actually get 35 - 40 psi of boost with an aftermarket boost elbow. The HY35 is factory set to 22 psi and can not be modified. the only way to get more boost out of an HY 35 is with a Jclamp or Turn buckle holding the wastgate shut. If your wanting more boost than stock you must have some sort of aftermarket box installed with a boost fooler circuit built in. otherwise you will set DTC for over boost condition and the enging will go into degrade mode. Juswt FYI LOL

Thanks Michael:thumbup2:

Having read this post all the way throuugh and a little background I'll give you my 2 sents worth: Bought my 01 with 56k in the ticker, Got the bombing bug and started tweaking. I found the the stock tranny would hold 419HP fairly well w/o toeing! Yes I could slip the stock Torque convertor at any time if I stomped on it but the stock tranny held for daily driving. Now I'm close to 475 so something needed to be done!!! Now my suggestion: A good After market Convertor and VB is a must above 375 hp, but what do you really need depends on what you exspect out of your truck. Personally I had the Bombing bug and didn't know how far I would go. I was thinking Twins in the future. I went for the Big Bucks solusion. Full blown Sun Coast Drag Comp tranny!! Triple lock Convertor @ 91% lockup REALLY Tight!!!!!!! Billet Shafts and Cups Kevlar clutches and additional clutches in the clutch packs High Pressure VB tuned to my sspecs. Yea the big bucks!!! This thing will snap your neck if you stomp on it and will pull your ___ out the bottom of the seat. I now have a tranny that I can Tow anything with out worry no matter how heavy it is. I can Sled pull if I wanted to, and even lay down 11:59 in the quarter. This thing pulls like a Manual and is as gentle as a caddy when your just cruising around town. It all in what you want out of it and what you can spend on it. That being said not everyone can spend that kinda bucks on a tranny and I know that. Build you tranny according to what it's gonna do. A good single disk Tq Convertor from a reputable company can and will hold up to 400 hp as long as you have a good VB to support it. You can get a good match set from many places ( ie ATS, Sun Coast...) for right at $1200 for the set. Triple lock will cost you about 600 - 800 more. . The tranny is the weak link in our trucks always has been, and one word to the wise, If you have stock clutches in your truck NEVER USE ANYTHING BUT AFT+4 otherwise you will EAT your clutches up. Only if you replace the clutches with Kevlars or Dextron rated clutches can you switch the fluid. JG

Only question I have is are the hoses included with that kit? doesn't look to be. You'll need atleast 3 5 ft hoses that are set up for R134 connectors. 1 for the high side, 1 for the low side, and 1 for the vacuum pump. and a 4th for your freon can also.

If the system has no freon then you get no heat exchange - No heat exchange means no Cold exchange - No Cold exchange means no cold air. If the clutch cycles on then cycles of ( like for 1 sec durations ) them you are not building any pressure and have a low freon condision. The low pressure switch stops the clutch from turning on at all and that's a 5 psi about's condition. you can try to test charge the system by starting the truck, turn on max AC and High fan, and try charging the system on the low side. You'll tell right a way if it's taking the charge by feeling the low side line getting cold. if the clutch does not enguage try jumping the low pressure switch and the clutch should start immediatly. try charging them and see what happens.

first thing I would try is the TV cable adjustment which controlls that intenal hydraulic pressure within the tranny. If it's not adjusted correctly you will have a tendancy to slip the clutches under a load ( ie not enough pressure at a given power rate) Also, If you are useing the stock torque convertor they are know JUNK and feel slushy. I would invest in a good Aftermarket Torque convertor and ValveBody, because they allow for more line pressures and more holding power.

I know this issue very well. and have been fighting it since getting the new tranny. It all has every thing to do with Bad Grounds. even though the battery treminals look clean doesn't mean they are. You notice that the symtoms stop once you pull the terminals off. It's a pain but sometimes it's the nature of the beast we run.

It all depends on what you use it for and what you exspect from the truck. It was explained to me when I first got my truck the best way: and I quote from the Imfamous "BIG UGLY" " Do you want a little bit, or do you want more than that, or do you want OH MY GOD THIS THING ROCKS!!!!!" You can be anywhere in those spectrums!! it all depends on what you want!!

Ummmmm?? Not sure what is really going on here.... Alright need some additional info here. Is the Convertor Locking and unlocking say at about 45 mph and jerking??? or is it slipping while going down the highway say at 65 -70 mph??? Try to explain exactilly what is happening, It may be just a TV Cable adjustment. Also list what power adders you have done to the truck thanks

As oposed to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROCOMP-Blue-Electric-Fuel-Pump-130-GPH-Holley-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem336198f05cQQitemZ220680745052QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Don't Do IT!!! Why try to keep up with the Jones and their High Dollar over Priced set-ups. I designed mine from scratch useing my brain not my pocketbook!!! I have always been against those systems because they are over priced and work no better than a pump and filter which cost less than $80. There is nothing to them except Flashy annodized aluminum and a name. The object here is GET the FUEL from the TANK to the INJECTOR PUMP!!! Not Rocket Science.