Silverwolf2691

Thoughts are in bold.. i know im late responding... but compunds are unneeded if you are just doing a tow rig. compunds come with a host of other things you have to do in order to make them work. if its just a back up, not worth the investment in my opinion.

Gotta say it is gorgeous out there.. well worth missing a sled pull for.

Meant to keep up with this a bit more but things didn't turn out that way. New job is going well, albeit the exhausted feeling every day is a bit rough. Sled pulling season was a well earned 2nd place. Me and the puller that got 1st were going within feet of each other pretty much every race. New clutch worked well on the track but is a bit rough on daily driving. To be expected... I will say being able to spin 3700 rpm down the track is helpful too. Got traction bars for Christmas so that will help... Lots to do and I don't have an open garage to do most of them. Side bar.. I missed my last pull (Oct 21) because my brother and I helped my best friend move from the ct shoreline to tacoma washington. We turned it into a mini vacation. Visited Yellowstone and the LaMay automotive museum. @Mopar1973Man, I was gonna let you know that i was coming through but we were coming through on I90 i think.. I was a bit far north for a detour on our timetable unfortunately.. Next time hopefully...

My fix was another job change, but glad things are turning around for you Mike. Finally ordered a new clutch, sintered iron triple disk from kennys diesel out of kentucky. Also ordered a tubular crossmember to replace the factory one. Hoping to save some weight and make trans removal and re installation a bit easier. Only problem is I dont think parts will get here in time to get them installed for my first or second pull. We shall see.

I wasnt so lucky... finally opened my rear drivers door after it hasnt opened in like 5 years. Cut off the bolts to get the door open then cut the lower latch off the nader pin.. kept it just intact enough to figure out why it siezes.. the actual bearclaw latch pivots on the sleeve that the threaded pieces are attached to. Have photos somewhere... @Great work!, you said your latch froze on the part inside the door thar the rod connects to?

Sorry for not keeping this up to date regularly... havent had proper funds to get things started/finished.. solved that problem though. hopefully going to be posting a bit more now that pulling season is about to start. Plans for this year are similar to previous years.. clutch, bump stops, traction bars, safety items for peace of mind, cylinder head if i can manage it.. probably not this year though. still need to do some maintenance stuff and trouble shooting/fixing of some random odds and ends..

Have to keep this up to date.. Haven't done much with the truck besides get new weights for it. My brother bought the concrete I was using and used it for redoing his mudroom. Pulling season is starting soon, so I have to start taking care of some of the lingering wintertime projects. Main reason for posting is that this morning, I blew the #9 fuse in the dash fuse box area. #9 is the fuse for the ECU, PCM, and the Quad. Drove to the gas station fine, got coffee and breakfast, went out to the truck to start it, and crank no start. Tried cranking again, had all the symptoms of a bad ECU, then i remembered about my fuse blowing previously, and sure enough it was blown.. had a spare 15 amp fuse to get me home but i dont want to play around with the power supply for the brains of the truck anymore than i have to. Drove the truck home, swapped cars and posting this from work.. I'm guessing there's a small break somewhere that i have to track down. But I'm also wondering if a health check from Quadzilla would be worth the effort..

Ok final update.. Got the ecu back and put it in.. and same symptoms. Took a bit to get back to it so the truck sat for a while. Finally got back to it today and started looking at fuses again. Sure enough fuse number 9 labeled 'engine' was blown. Replaced it had no ccd issues and my wait to start was back. So i am back to a running cummins.

I hope so.. kinda need my truck back to do some stuff around the house. And i dont have snow tires for the challenger yet.. but southern new england is in a snow drought right now so I'll take all the dry days i can get at the moment.

Got my email from @Auto Computer Specialist today. Apparently my CPU had started to come loose.. among other things.. ECU should be back Thursday. Next is some battery cables.. mine are not great. Work on the W-T mod as well while getting this swapped..

ECU is down in Florida with @Auto Computer Specialist. Turn around time should be 5 work days from Wednesday. Fingers crossed.

Hoping to pull my ECU tonight an get it sent out in the morning. Cold, Rain, the Dark, and work put a real damper on working on My truck.. First decent day that i didn't have something already planned or was raining. Finally got a hold of @Auto Computer Specialist, they told me that its the ECU. Need to work on the battery cables and W-T mod next as well..

Trying to keep up on things... Called @Auto Computer Specialist about the time of my last post, Didnt get far. Was no way to leave a voicemail or talk to someone. Then called on Monday or Tuesday and spoke with Demetrius (sp?) about the issues I've been having. He said that its the ECU so that's what I'm gonna send in. Fingers crossed

Had a contact us ticket into them on monday, still waiting. Ok, the way you said that makes sense. That was part of the reason for the other post. I didnt know if i was fighting multiple issues or if one thing was causing the others.

Quadzilla is more of a checkup vs having issues.. Im assuming no ccd causes the no start condition as well..

So I remembered that I downloaded the FSM and spent the last hour plus going through it.. Think I finally have things a bit straightened out now. Still need to keep combing through stuff.. but getting better..

I think I'm more confused now that I've looked at the wires of my truck... I think I need a crash course on alternator/electrical workings... So the charge lead comes off the alternator then goes into the PDC, through the 140A fuse then into the drivers battery. by moving the the charge lead to the passenger battery, we render the PDC fuse useless, needing to add a fuse to the new charge line. Am I understanding this correctly so far? So what is powering the PDC? Seems like the red power cable from the battery does that. The second grey connector that heads up to the firewall/cowl, I think @IBMobile has an article about this, where is that going/what is it connecting to? Trying to follow it in the wire diagrams on the site but it isnt immedeately clear.. Says that s126 is the PCM and data link grounds, but it says that it terminates at the firewall not the battery...

Not yet on the ground wires.. Havent had an issue with grounds yet. Have had no electrical issues up until I swapped batteries. Any fuses relevant to the issues im having in the dash fuse panel?

Alright here goes. I've wanted to do the W-T mod for a while but both Articles ( @W-T's and @Mopar1973Man's) even after reading them multiple times over a couple of years, I still couldn't wrap my head around the process. I think its a combo of my lack of knowledge and a bit of formatting of the articles themselves. It might just be the way my brain works/interprets things as well. So I guess it comes down to I need a bit of clarification. And I don't know the best way to format this so please bear with me. Things I understand fully about this mod: - Its intent. Remove a problematic splice and poor ground run. Things i mostly get: - Where things from the factory are run. For the most part. (see below) - The bundle of small gauge grounds that go into the timing cover. Things im not sure of: - the alternator charge lead I think is part of the confusion i have with this mod. Where does it run and what does it hook up to? - where all the new connections are. (I have some idea for this one. Just need confimation) - is the Small gauge ground bundle we make a replacement for the long cable? or do we have to add the other ground lead? (green wire on the timing cover for @W-T's article.) - looks to be a requirement.. "...absoute ground..." - W-T Just trying to finish wrapping my head around how this is laid out and accomplished. Thanks in Advance

Alright, just got back in from looking over the truck. No pins move more than i would think is acceptable in the OBD port. They move a bit, like sub 1/16-1/32, but I think that was standard/acceptable for most electrical connectors. I dont see any obvious wire breakage or actual rats nests.

Sorry for the delay gents, between 2 weeks of rain and OT at work, been a bit nuts. I did a feel check on the OBD port but nothing feels out of place. Need to figure out how to remove it. Going out in a bit to do just that. My Dad and I did go through some fuses that sounded pertinent to the issues at hand and everything checked out. No Blown fuses. I dont know if this is an effect of the no CCD or Wait to Start not lighting up, but engine cranks with no start. Probably from CCD if i had to guess. That seems to control (talk to at a minimum) everything in the truck. I'm headed out to to take a daylight look at things. See if anything is obvious. Probably look at what needs to be done for a W-T Mod as well. I need battery cables and was going to get some of the military terminal ones from ceautoelectricsupply.com. See if i can get some of the Mod wires all set to be installed with the kit.

@dieselautopower, I did a stupid and jumped my truck and forgot to unhook the Quad. Is that a full death sentence for it? Guess what im asking is, should i send it in to have it looked at? Possibly add that on top of my no Wait To Start and no CCD bus bus issues..

Cant connect with my OBDLink MX+. Will try with a different wired scanner tomorrow. Just straight up fails. Has power to the port but cant seem to communicate with my truck. No 'key trick' codes pulled either.

Been digging for a bit. I'm Almost positive that one of the Control units is shot.. Possibly both. From what i read the CCD system "lives" in the PCM. But the Wait to Start lives on the ECM. The CCD does talk to Both units but I dont know If a Failure in one Makes a failure of the other. (im thinking not.) I guess the immedate questions i have are Where do i start diagnosing this? Can i run the engine with these issues? (if it starts) Would the cluster codes help? if so how do i pull those? (i think this is the cluster test, Prob not helpful) Just went out and double checked. im getting no info to the cluster. the gauges come off of rest but stay on the bottom of the ranges. i havent tried firing the truck off, i dont think it will from what i read.. I just dont Know where to start diagnosing down options. Or if im trying to avoid the truth. Might be more along the lines of do i have to send one or both modules in to get fixed.

Short version: Didnt drive the truck for a bit, jumped the truck, got it started. Drove it for a bit, then parked it. checked to see it would fire again after shutting it off, thought the wait to start didnt show up. next morning, slow crank. attempted to jump the truck, didnt fire off. swapped batteries now i have no CCD bus and no wait to start. i also attempted to jump the truck with the Quad hooked up the second time.. Long version: Last weekend (I think) I tried jump starting my truck. Havent started it since like late October. Finally got around to trying to get it started. Unhooked the Quad, put one of those lithium jump packs on, got it fired up. Let it idle for a few minutes, then took it for a short drive. Got back home. Shut it down, then tried to restart the truck. Truck fired right up, but I didnt think I had seen the Wait to start light. Tried again and no Wait to start. I did hook my Quad back up at this point so it wasnt loose. Had stuff to do that night so thats how i left it. Next morning went to start it, and slow crank. didnt think twice and threw a jump pack on and attempted to start the truck. Didnt help much. still cranked slow. Had to get to work so i just swapped to my challenger and left it there. Today, i swapped out my batteries. go to start the truck and no wait to start, no gauges, odometer is blinking, and i have 'no CCD' displayed on my overhead display and odometer. Do I have a couple different problems or is there one common denominator? As soon as i post this im going to start digging into articles as well to see what I come up with. I'm already assuming due to the no wait to start light, that im going to have to send my ECU to auto computer specialist. any input is appreciated.