Silverwolf2691

Have adjustable track bar and longer Carli control arms (non adjustable though).. i need to go though my front end and see whats up with it.. its both tight and loose, as weird as that sounds. Just kinda feels like the front end is floating but it goes where i want it to with little hesitation..

I think you are fighting the turbo now.. It's just sized a hair too big to be daily friendly.. 12cm turbine housing might help, but IDK if they make one for the 71, I imagine so but I've been wrong before. There's this add on turbine housing called the Turbonator from Diesel Power Source, its vgt, either electronic or mechanical, but the housing alone is more expensive than a whole new Borg S3XX SXE.. Claims to reduce spool up to like 400 rpm or something crazy like that. https://www.dieselpowersource.com/turbonator-vgt-vnt-variable-geometry-turbine-housing if anyone is interested..

Finally got my 35s on, that i got on Christmas. Its different for sure but not overly so. Have to fix my bumper and remove my mudflaps for sure. Probably have to heat up my fender liners as well. Other option is a leveling kit of some sort. Retuning is gonna be fun.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery @LorenS. @wil440, operations nowadays they dont have you just laid up for 6 weeks then physical therapy. Its closer to what @IBMobile described. They have you moving very quickly after the operation. Turns out that not moving the operated on area causes atrophy and other complications that actually increase the healing time.

Certain lubes do, others dry enough or totally to not attract dust/dirt. Boeshield t9 dries out to a waxy consistency and doesnt move or attract dirt once dry. Only problem is its expensive as hell. https://boeshield.com/automotive-motorcycle/

I know my truck cold will idle at 15 degrees. Warm idle is 11 for mine.. i know others are around 13 warm. Unsure about start up..

@Me78569, when you built your 7x.012 tune how fast did you ramp canbus fuel? @Stanley's tune only goes up by 1% per psi starting at 90%.. I think that might be killing some of the power/fuel needed to spool the turbo.. Hmm.. on second thought.. maybe not as much as I thought.. When I was originally trying to figure out what turbo I was gonna get, @dieselautopower mentioned that the 64.5/73.4/12 would start spooling around 2000 rpm, and the 62/68/14 would start at 1600. Well he is spot on on the rpm for the 62/68/14 that I bought.. Looking at the data logs, 2000-2200 is right where the boost rises quick for stanleys truck.. I think its a case of runaway EGTs.. Boost cant build soon enough to cool things down..

Met with the owner of the locksmith last week Thursday. Had an interview/talk/see where you might fit kind of meeting. It went well to the point that he basically said he wants to hire me, but with the company moving locations, he needs to see the way things rebuild after the move. Which should be this week. Hard part was the first time I called to set some thing up he already hired 2 locksmiths, one a week prior and one 2-3 days prior. The owner is definitely not just resting on his customer base, he is actively trying to grow the business and he said more or less that I'm possibly the first of a few more hires as well.. He's moving his shop because while they have a retail store front, its a basement of a house that was converted to a store front, complete with basement height limits. there was also no parking that wasn't taken up by either the company vans or employee vehicles. Fingers crossed this works out..

We've thrown a lot at you, I think it's worth going through what ideas are here before adding more. Start with the simple stuff right now like the fuel curve. Then when you find a curve that works we can move onto timing.

70-80% range through 10 psi? Definitely not gonna get out of its own way.. thats part of the reason why I say try going big and pull back. Smarty would smoke like a bastard regardless because of how quick it fuels right?

Infinte performance would be my next step if you want to go the injector route. Unfortunately hes expensive, but hes worth the money. Im still trying to figure out my fueling but think its more about an aggressive ramp after a flat spot for smoke.. Timing is gonna play a part here too. Keeping a bit of boost while cruising is gonna be helpful but the turbo might be too big to cruise with boost. Hmmmm.. I run a 2% ramp on mine.. If you want to go stupid, 90% then +5% each one to 150%. My sled pull tune with the hx35 and 50s was 115 at 0psi then +5% to 150%. Its possibly gonna get toasty so be careful. A 12cm housing would be a step in the right direction. Personally, i would say either 64.5/73.4/12 or the 64.5/68/(12/14). Depends on what you are looking for in the end. Not my money though.. Worse comes to worse drop down turbo size and injectors, but thats not fun lol, but if its unbearable...

Might be running into the issue of too little fuel per psi.. my 50s on my normal tune can push 1000* before my turbo spools, then you can watch the egts drop a bit.. still need to figure it out. Have you tried "going stupid" with a tune? Start at like 115 go up like 5% each psi.. probably get hot but might help you narrow down what you need.. Add some wire tap to the mix to see what happens too. Whoops.. Just saw you havent tapped the pump yet.. More fuel might actually help cool things down.. more fuel isnt correct, more boost at cruise might be beneficial.. Your turbo also passively flows a lot through the turbine so it needs more exhaust flow to stay up on boost. The 71 turbine is known as a low drive pressure turbine so it is a lag pig but stays cooler on the top end. Add the 14 housing and that compounds things even more..

That, valair, or south bend. Fair warning, the slave cylinder is compressed all the way and tabbed in place on a brand new system. The first time you push the clutch you break the tabs. It feels and sounds weird but is perfectly fine and normal.

Sounds like textbook leakage past the O-rings in the master or slave. Throw out bearing would have growling noises, and unless the bearing was bad enough to move front and back, would have very little impact on the clutch in the way you are describing. Pilot bearing on the other hand, could cause the lack of dis-engagement. Usually has a grinding/growling noise associated with it though.

I'll upload my timing setup at lunch or after work, but I have a lot lower timing curve for my daily tune. I think the 4.10s might be throwing things off.. Possibly the HO engine as well.. You just replied as I was typing but try leaving the timing where it is and adding 2° to cruise. At highway speeds I'm around 21-22° of cruise timing. On flat ground I can get down to 450-550°F for egts. 45-55 mph is where my truck likes 18-19° of timing (285/70r17s though) This was with my hx35 and +50s. Right now I'm way under fueled with my 62/68/14 and 50s..

Now the gears are turning lol. Man I really want a vp44 to pull apart. 2 would be nice, an SO and an HO. Lighter material for the fuel pin? IDK, might be building a pipe dream right now.. Billet vp44 case, slightly modded internals..

So its not the high pressure pump that limits the rpm, its the injection solenoid? Interesting.. Also 4000 rpm crank or injection pump speed? Injection pump speed is half of crank, so 4000 rpm for the solenoid would be 8k crank RPM..

Priorities shifted to my 1500 recently so a bit of a pause for a bit. Need to un-basket case it to get it reliable for daily driving. Needs the whole front end redone along with tires and brakes all around. Tune up as well. Need to get a part swapped in the bell housing too.. That's what I get for trading a Milwaukee m18 impact and some of my time with my brother.

Define backed off the adjuster 3 times? If you mean just 3 screw driver movements (lack of a better phrase), you probably haven't even rotated the star wheel a full revolution. If you mean full back off then go till just dragging that's a different story.. Pulling everything off is probably the best way to diagnose at this point as well. I have a feeling the shoes are slightly wedged lopsided enough to drag on one side but not the other.

Also you have a standard trans truck, your cruise should be electronic. Need some more info about 'no A/C' like @Tractorman said.

Not gonna lie i'm way out of my depth here electronics wise.. Is there any way to separate the tps signal? Maybe a shielded wire or something? This reminds me of a youtuber named Rob Dahm. He builds rotary mazdas including an awd billet 4 rotor rx7. He just rebuilt his wiring harness end to end for an aftermarket fuel injection system and power distribution module. One thing he continually stessed was how electrically sensitive they (rotaries) were. Crank angle sensor and fly by wire throttle bodies were all shielded twisted pair wires so the signal was as clean as possible. Might be something to look into to clean up some of the electrical spikes. Unless the dirty signal is coming from the board itself? So i understand this, you essentially moved the fuel and timing from the factory ecu to the vp44 with what you created right? Or is it more like a Sniper/MoTeC/FiTech/FAST type ecu? The higer psi map sensor @Mopar1973Man mentioned would down the line if you decide to go to a boost reference fuel table similar to a Quad.. if thats possible with your setup.. I would be curious what you could get for rpms out of your setup. Sled puller in me that wants to see a vp44 do decently among the p pumps and efi live.. If there was a way to make a sniper type ecu out of this in the future, it could be the next big leap like the Quadzilla was with v2..

Care to share @JAG1? Definitely want to follow this.. How different in functionality is yours vs factory?

Are you running an oiled filter like a k&n? Generally, oil on this side if the wheel is from an oiled filter. Bad oil seals you wouldnt see unless you pulled off the intercooler pipe. HE351CW is a 60/60/9 HE351 is a 60/60/12 HX35W is a 56?/60/12 He351/He351cw are a more efficient turbo and will do a hot 450-500hp but require a decent amount of fab to swap. Not sure of full USA made turbos, but precision turbo i think is one of them, at least partly... big money though. Diesel Auto Power is a vendor on the site and where i got my turbo. If you put an (@) symbol before my username it will tag me specifically. Just sharing info. There are things you can do to both turbos to make them larger as well. It depends on what you are using the truck for.

Motorcycle battery.. but its probably the same rules as mopeds (state dependent).. over a certain size engine and it becomes a motorcycle not a moped. 50cc is CTs limit.

Mother nature can be cruel.. The past week and weekend was in the 60s and sunny, except Saturday, it was rainy then a majority of the day lull that no one saw coming totally, then rained again over night. Then mid 60s on Sunday, mid 50s yesterday low 50s today. By Thursday night we have a rain storm worth 2" of rain coming, but that's gonna be a high 40s day. Oh well. Just hope that 2 inches of rain is enough to finish washing the sand to the sides of the road and getting rid of the salt. I need to charge my bike battery so I can go on a ride when it warms up after this..