Silverwolf2691

Post pics? Might help narrow down the path you gotta take to fix it

Meaning the actual clamp, bracket, etc.. You don't mention that in the article. Looks like angle iron off the diff bolts but I'm just guessing..

yeah she's a pretty blue, part of what draw me to it. not my bike but in the sun:

@Mopar1973Man, can you post how you mounted the lights to the axle? I've been wanting to copy your idea but haven't been able to figure out how you mounted them. Tried to convince my brother to hook his up like yours when he does it, but he's dead set on the hanging below the bumper technique..

I had a few things going for me in that photo.. 1-ground floor apartment 2-I live in my uncles in-law apartment and he's chill with most things 3-every door in the house is 36" wide, plus my front doors are double doors (French doors?) 4-that area is 9'10" wide wall to wall, plenty of room to have the bike and not block everything off

Later than i said but.. Im lucky to be able to get my bike in my apartment every now and then..

Are you meaning fins exposed? Otherwise the top of the heater core is exposed by design. Half inch gap at the bottom of the recirc door is definitely something to look in to. Another thing to consider is whether your truck is running. The extra vacuum could pull the door where it needs to go..

Hard part is, the 46/47/48RE series for Rams, and possibly some of the other models of that era, are more or less still a torqueflite 727 with an electronic overdrive bolted on the back and electronic lock up (I think.. not 100% on that last part). its still a mostly hydraulically actuated transmission. Even more so for the 46/47RH transmissions. I did some digging a long time ago when I had my black 1500 about what to do to make the trans last. I don't know specifics, like how lock up is actuated or how all the solenoids work together to shift the thing.. I do know you can put lock up actuators and an overdrive onto an actual 727 and get some fuel mileage out of it, its not cheap though. I swear though that the transgo shift kit I put in that 1500 said that it allowed 3rd lock up.. Just looked, I think it was one of the other kits and I was just remembering reading about it. It would still need a manual lock up controller to actuate it, and it Could go to 1st gear lock up..

I think the only way to change it is to put a shift kit in that allows 3rd lock up without OD being off.. Been a while since I was looking at transmission stuff for a second gen..

Bought the bike in August of 2018 I think? It was a left over at the dealer. Bought it with 0 miles and this is my first motorcycle. 1300cc liquid cooled v-twin comes from the factory with like 75hp. Hardest part is its not a well known bike so very little aftermarket and what aftermarket is there is expensive. Its a fun bike though. put some Vance and Hines short shots on for some sound. Has an ECU tune instead of a piggyback tuner. Still need to get it fitted a bit more for me, new seat and need the foot pegs moved forward a bit more. Might get some mini apes or something for bars but my handle bars dont mount normally like a Harley. Ill get some photos at lunch, only one I have is not a very good one from the rear.

Still too much salt on the roads for my liking, also the rollercoaster temps we have going on is nuts, it was 30 yesterday and by Thursday there are chances for some towns to hit 65-70.. Then there's a chance for more snow this weekend. Problem is, at this point, every warm period we get is met with lots of rain.. If it was colder, we would have over 2 feet of snow on the ground not including the upcoming storms.. since the beginning of the month. LG tone wireless ear buds worked wonderfully with a helmet. They were a neck hoop design though and the mic was on the hoop out in the wind.. no calls but plenty of music. Some of the Bluetooth helmet systems are pretty nice though. music and bike to bike comms, ill take it

Been a bit since I was in there last but I think its just a glove box pull to get to that actuator.. Also, the only thing that can stop fresh air coming in is the recirc door right? Otherwise there isn't any true "off" setting as far as I'm aware of.. When you put the selector into "off" does it actually shut everything off?

Need to replace mine, the factory ends were overtightened at some point and severely deformed the ends. That, age and 6 owners before me has taken its toll on my cables. The insulation is starting to pull away from the terminal leaving wires exposed and turning green and black as well.. Probably going to buy a set because I don't have the tools or experience to make my own. Was going to go with either ceautoelectricsupply.com or custombatterycables.com for mine. Might get a set pre-setup for the W-T mod as well. https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/gen-2-dodge-diesel-truck-battery-cable-kits/ https://www.custombatterycables.com/dodge-ram-cummins-1998-2002/ been a while since i checked the prices, $80 more expensive than the CE auto electric one of the same size..

He's not the only one.. mine are just bigger lol. Speaking from the other side of the fence as I have 4.10s, factory-ish tire sizes suck on fuel and rpms. The only nice thing about it is running around town in 6th at like 35-40. But that is borderline lugging the motor so its only in the flatter spots... getting through intersections is 2nd to 4th depending on the size of the intersection.. Highway is a lesson in getting comfortable with the engine screaming at 2250+ doing 65.. 70-75 is 2500 rpm.. Small wonder I can't get over 15 mpg .. I have 35s ready to go on but still rockin 285/70r17s right now. And with diesel hitting $4/gallon here in CT, I think its time to get some economy back..

Not really. The anemic feeling is due to the 49 cubic inch difference in displacement. 5.9 is a 359ci, 6.7 is a 408ci. Closest would be a 6.7 crank in a 5.9. i think it comes out to like a 6.4l. (or that's the destroked 6.7s.. 6.7 bore with 5.9 crank) High performance 6.7 guys will either destroke the 6.7 with a 5.9 crank or they will add a 1 inch deck plate to the block because of the rod ratios. (rod length/stroke) Best is 1.7 and above. 6.7 is around a 1.45 ish.. Short version is it (low rod ratio) puts a lot of side thrust on the piston and can cause wear on the piston skirts. Anyway, the head should swap with no issue except for one or two coolant ports and you need special connector tubes. Just remembered we are in the 3rd gen section.. still not sure on the coolant port but everything else should bolt right in.

Might be my young age and inexperience but, what is BSW and since when have there been lamp oil powered engines? Also that's a big motor compared to what I've seen around here.. Same cc as my brothers motorcycle.. How wide is the tilled area?

@Mopar1973Man, 24v powertrain might be a better spot for this. Can we move the thread? @James T, I agree with @Max Tune. The wait to start light is driven by the ECU. It serves as a health check of the ECU on every start and the "timer" for the grid heaters when they are needed.

Yes.. I have an idea rattling around for the rockers but I would need to know what the spring working height pressures at full open are.

@dieselautopower, is there any way for the 50s and the Quad I have to spool the 62/68/14? I need to get a vehicle on the road so I can sell my 2019... Also do you know what the nose pressure of the valve springs are? Between weather, lack of a garage, and previous issues I'm debating just getting the turbo and downpipe on to just get it on the road, and get the injectors, springs, and pushrods in at a later date. Hopefully when my brother gets his Jeep out of the garage I can get my truck in to finish the swap..

New England is starting to get into the yo-yo temps time of the year. Last Wednesday to Saturday the temps were in the mid to upper 50s, Sunday it snowed all day, high of 32.. Monday I don't think got out of the low 20s. This morning it was 5.. Later this week we are forecasted to be in the 50s again..

Well that didn't go as planned.. Went to start swapping the injectors on my truck yesterday, took the day off because it was almost 50°f. Everything was going fine until my intake horn of all things.. One of the long bolts I have been limping along for a while now with a partly stripped head, 6 point usually would have taken it off but I had my splined sockets. Needless to say the bolt started stripping worse. So I cut a slot in it, and used an impact screw driver head on my impact to try to break it loose. only succeeded in breaking the the screw driver tip.. @#$%#, so now I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the head off the bolt to just lift everything off the bolt. I don't know how its stuck, I didn't tighten it that tight when I last took the intake horn off, unless it started rusting and that's why... Then I pulled the rockers cause of the valve springs and I thought the injectors wouldn't clear them (they will..) and I looked at the rocker arms and trunnions, all the ones I pulled have galling on the bottom side of the trunnion and arm.. so am I looking at new rocker assemblies? I thought I read something somewhere about an upgraded trunnion or rocker arm from the 6.7, anyone have any info? Also I found the culprit for the blue smoke. Cylinder #1 intake valve seal has lifted from its seat..

The biggest thing that helped me at least, was to play with the tune builder.. That's how I learned that one of the settings pulled the most low and at a certain point was not pulling any timing.. Just the visual of seeing what affected what was enough. But you cant see anything unless you have a tune to open..

I had started writing something but going off of memory wasn't smart..

uh mike, i think thats the wrong color..

Dont know if it would fix the issue but its located betwwen the knee bolster and ash tray behind the dash. Pain in the butt to get to if im honest. You also need to know what version yours is before getting one. Base or highline are the options. And you cant buy one new to my knowledge. You have to get one used.