Silverwolf2691

Just to add some info, @Doubletrouble I was going to the same route you are looking at for injectors but DAP was out of stock. They are a +40hp injector. Going to +50s isn't much larger of a jump from stock plus they have been matched and gone through by the builders. (like @Mopar1973Man said). Before I got the Quadzilla, I ran an edge ez. it worked and you can drive it smoke free on level 3 (it's highest). But even before I got into the world of sled pulling, i thought it was enough power wise. but to be honest it wasn't the best. The turbo if you punched it from an idle kind of lagged even with an hx35, think it was flooding the turbo or similar to what MoparMan said, since the edge just added timing on top of factory, it pushed the timing too high to spool the turbo effectively. It also smoked quite a bit if you were under the turbo at speed. My daily Quadzilla tune for the can bus fueling is really linear, and I have it set so that its nearly smoke free from a stop and it pulls like mad once it gets the turbo spooled. And at full tilt there's only a slight haze. The edge left a noticeable trail, and was a smoke show if under the turbo. I haven't refined my tune quite enough to be entirely smoke free, however.. Part of what sold me on this was when one of the members, @TFaoro I think, before he changed injection pumps was able to clean up +300hp? injectors (some on here nicknamed them firehose injectors, that's how big they were) and send his truck to emissions and pass with room to spare. (this was when v2 was still in development so my memory might be incorrect on this) The other part was having the ability to store other type of tunes with different uses. I don't have many, just three, but after reading and rereading how certain things affect others it completely changes the truck. My sled pulling tune feels like it wants to tear the truck apart, or blow the tires off, when I play with it on the road but its a smoky mess and i live on the poor side of a rich town so I have the daily tune to keep passing power and low smoke as the priority. 3rd tune was a best guess at MoparMan's zero boost tune, but i'm not on the freeway very much so it still requires a lot of refinement. I did that to experiment and learn about the way things change when you adjust them. Going from flatland 10psi while cruising on the highway to 0-2 psi and maintaining speed even up some small hills really demonstrates the power and capability of the quadzilla.

@Dumb A, how many miles are on the truck and what was its original use(s)? Also, how many pistons have the valve dent in them? most on the forums around the web kind of lean towards all Cummins parts and non coated bearings. mostly i think because its a large chunk of cash to rebuild, even before performance parts get thrown into the mix, and people have been burned trying to go with other brand parts. Along the same lines of why even here for thermostats, Cummins or Napa is the recommendation. non coated bearings because the coating can wear off or chip off, but i think those were older posts, circa 2010..

@LorenS, I thought it was everything set to zero and use max timing to add on top of factory? at least that's what I thought was said in one of the other threads.. could be wrong..

Apologies if its posted else where, but why are you replacing the head? Is it too cracked to reuse? When I did mine I had it machined, magnafluxed, and cleaned. They took .007 off to make it flat again. Personally I would get the full upper gasket set, not sure how loaded that head is or where you are getting it from. Reason being there are a few other gaskets that you are disturbing while you are that far into the engine, and going back in after putting it all back together isnt fun. I believe the one I used was from genos, item #4090035. I can double check when I get home tonight. I did a fair amount of other fixes while I had everything apart however..

think of a hydro electric dam, has holes in the bottom that allow water through, but they are relatively small for the volume of water. when there is too much water it has to go somewhere or damage can happen. they build spill ways to release water around the dam so nothing gets hurt, while the same volume of water goes through the turbines making electricity. wastegate allow small turbines to spool quick but not be over sped at high rpms. hope that helps..

Thank you, there are two other videos if you head to youtube that i had posted. The orange sled is very light it might top 20k lbs fully loaded, but im really unsure about that one. the green sled is 40k empty and fully comes off the ground when it transfers, orange one doesn't. but the owner of the orange sled (our club's vice president) is starting to build a bigger sled similar to the green one so we have more capability. Is the 68/14 and 73.4/12 supposed to be compared? You did, its the balance of expense vs. reviews on everything. It seems like for every person say it spools fine, there's another that says it was horrible. And weeding through the bad tuning or common rail guys posting in second gen areas gets daunting. i think that part of the reason i'm asking that i'm asking, trying to be well enough informed to make a decision with semi confidence and an understanding of the drawbacks.

@Mopar1973Man, if i remember correctly form the quad v2 r&d thread, they couldnt go below 1500 because of the stock ECU. It would get very unhappy if memory serves. @Me78569 do you recall why 1500 was the lowest for timing? Never mind, I just reread what you wrote, 8a and not enough coffee yet. around like 1200 rpm, is that the factory ecm taking over? because I see a big jump in timing when that rpm and below is crossed..

this was my first pull ever. Edge EZ, +50s. Pulled 120ft. At the start there's a puff of blue smoke from idling waiting my turn to pull. First pull of 2020, pulled 240ft, only change was quadzilla v2 but not wire tapped Most recent pull, not proud of this one despite being close to 400ft. i rushed and didn't realize that the 4x4 lever had a roll of duct tape around it preventing it from engaging fully. On top of that i started in 4lo 2nd and tried shifting gears to try to "save" the pull. this caused the shifter to pop out slightly and grind on the synchro, hence the noise at 1:10. They let me repull got ino 4lo 4th like it should be, and away i went. This was my first time with wiretap ever so it was an experience. i placed 3rd with 397ft, i backed out of it because the sled operator told us not to go into the grass at the end of the track.

@dieselautopower what is the difference between the 64.5/73.4/12, a 63/68/12 (or 14), and a 62/68/14? I understand for racing only the benefit of the big turbine wheel but drivability and my pulling class are my only hang ups.. why do I have a feeling im at the last step before i have to start leaving the do it all path and start getting specialized with all the pros and cons that come with it.. The perks of racing lol. If anyone wants to see vids of my pulls i can post them up, might help with advice. Or I'll put those in their own thread to keep this one on topic.

So the only thing is that 2.5 class is checked with 2.55 plug and 2.6 is checked with 2.65 I believe. Even though we don't check every pull, im trying to stay in work stock/2.5. So technically the turbo you suggested is too big for the class i'm in currently. 2.5 = 63.5mm 2.55 = 64.77mm 2.6 = 66mm 2.65 =67.3

@dieselautopower as a reference im guessing 7x.013 injectors are in the 250ish±50hp range? I know 7x.010s are 150s, its just so i have an idea as to how much bigger these would be.. 64.5/73.4/12, is that basically a s464 sized s300 with a 12cm^2 exhaust housing? that's an interesting option.. looking at compd they all say s400 for durability, kind of only reason that i was thinking that. im zero-a few hundred feet above sea level, nv5600, 4.10s (luckily for pulling), tires currently are 285/70r17 (32.7x11.4r17). when these are done im gonna go with 33 or 35x12.5r17s. TBH, both of those are a lot bigger than i was thinking initially, gotta re-think my options now lol.

@dieselautopower Valid points all around. Currently run your +50s, would like to get flux/f1 diesel +150s. Not sure on horsepower. im guessing that from others with similar builds final build would be 450-500. So our sled pulling up in the northeast is i think the equivalent of "brush pulls" possibly? we run an 8500lb work stock/2.5 class on the low end and 8000 lb "enhanced diesel" as our 2.6 equivalent, there's a 7000lb open gas diesel combined class, there is only a single handful of 3.0 or larger trucks that I have seen pull with my specific club but we have a bunch of other overlapping clubs. meaning i might not have seen all that's around here. i was able to do semi-respectably in the 3 pulls we had this year with just a quad and 50s. I bring this up just to say competitive work stock for new england isn't 800+ hp, its in the 350-400 range. Our enhanced class i'm guessing is 5-600hp. and a few of the members run both classes. We have a barely there tech so no plugging of turbos, basically at weight, driveshafts taped minimum, battery strapped down. that's kind of it. and yes i'm trying to stay within the rules with minimal squinting between the lines For now, i'm pulling in work stock. I don't know if I will graduate to our enhanced diesel class. If I did, I would probably lean towards s464. This truck is not going to be used as a main tow vehicle, its a weekend dump run/back up daily/mainly sled pull for use. if i'm towing id be using my 2019. In regards to your you last two points, i'm prepared for that. but adding to what I said above our work stock class is street trucks, even our enhanced class is mixed with street trucks. I'm doing this to have fun first and if I make podiums its an added bonus. thank you for the advice as well @dripley Its still semi on topic because @LorenS brought up an option I hadn't known about.

@dieselautopower Don't know if you saw my original post, what are your thoughts about the options I picked?

good to know but meant the compressor outlet elbow. still have taste thankfully. lost smell though. its really weird having no smell. like smelling fresh coffee grounds and there's nothing there.. its just an odd feeling. your brain doesn't know what to do with the lack of input from your nose. so if you didn't have the exhaust brake you would have just went s362/68/12? I don't have an exhaust brake so my options are more open..

Sorry for not replying sooner, tested positive for Covid and was mopping up some of the fall out of that between work, family, and doctor's office. @LorenS the link you have for benzforce is 404'd.. is this the right one? https://www.benzforce.com/collections/holset-hx35-he351-accessories/products/new-genuine-holset-he351w-4043980-4043982-he351 you tearing down the turbo to clock it? I seem to remember roll pins needing to be removed on a he351cw in order to clock it it appears that the elbow from the HX35 will fit.. @Dieselfuture how do you like your custom HX35/40? because that's kind of what I was thinking for sizing if I upgraded. and I would be upgrading injectors as well.

I've had blue smoke coming out of my exhaust upon acceleration, after idling for an extended period of time, for a while now and it smells like oil burning, since I think blue smoke can also be excess fuel. Since oil can only enter the exhaust via the turbo oil seals and the valve seals, I think its the turbo because around 2017 (I think) I had my cylinder head rebuilt due to my head gasket leaking coolant down the side of the block. I haven't pulled the down pipe to confirm yet but its on the list for it. I'm getting into sled pulling with the truck so i was wondering if it would be more beneficial to upgrade the turbo since it would have to come out anyway. I'm only pulling in a workstock/2.5 class in Southern New England so wringing every last horsepower and torque out of it isn't needed. I'm also still trying to be able to drive the truck daily if needed. i had a few options that i was looking at but i would like a bit more guidance. https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-62-68-12-t3-gated-hx40 first option other possibility was a 62/65/12 from DAP.. https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/power-driven-diesel-hx35-turbo-kit/ http://turbolabofamerica.com/category/holset-turbo-upgrade/ PDD seems to have found what turbo lab was doing, and copied them. not gonna go bigger than 62mm inlet. if i go this route, i would probably go through turbo lab due to price. https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/power-driven-diesel-hx-super-9-turbo-kit-bundle/ this seems to be an HX35 with an HE351CW exhaust housing, and an HX40 flange grafted on. I guess I'm just wondering if upgrading the hx35 is worth the cost savings or if going to an SX-E is worth the flow/efficiency upgrade. From lurking for a while I've seen that mopar1973man is pleased with his HX35/40 hybrid, that's what's making me question keeping/upgrading the hx35.. Thanks in advance Silverwolf

Vehicle Nickname: Midna Date Added To The Garage: 2021-03-17 Garage Link: Midna

Thought it would be time to introduce myself finally. Long time lurker, rare poster, finally decided to come out of the woodwork. Im from the corner of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River, so if anyone is in the area or needs a hand let me know. Ive had my 2001 Cummins for quite a few years 2014-2015 if i remember correctly. ive slowly built it up from a slight basket case to a decent runner. previous owner didnt take very good care of maintenance. would like to also thank everyone for their help in the past and mopar1973man for making this site, its an extremely deep wealth of knowledge. Cheers! Silverwolf

Just so you know 9007 bulbs are only used in the sport headlights. You should be using 9004 style bulbs. Ive never had any headlight halogen or otherwise melt snow and ice. Used to have a cherokee with composite (bulb style) and sealed beam headlights and every winter had at some point snow packed in there or ice on them, never melted off..

Coolant is peak regular green coolant, a year-ish old. I cleaned up the area and it is coming from The plug not the gasket.. ive never pulled a freeze plug let alone one that small.. could i use a pipe plug and tap the hole and seal it up that way after removing the old freeze plug? Similar to what others use in the rocker area freeze plugs.. first photo is most recent, the second one is about 3 mins earlier and you can see the wetness difference if barely..

I did a head gasket a bit over a year ago put studs in and what not. Was leaking at the front on mine. Plus there is a good amount of water in that hole just above the block and head seam. Im at work right now but hopefully gonna look later tonight after spraying it down with brake clean see where its coming from.

Hello everyone, first post but long time lurker. Last night i noticed a coolant leak coming from my truck on the ground while i was shopping. Was almost a 12" wet spot on the ground after about an hour and a half of sitting. After getting the truck home and letting it cool off for a bit i was able to find out where it was coming from. On the head in the back passenger corner there is a 45 degree spot that has a small hole, about 3/8" diameter. Is this a freeze plug and if so has anyone replaced it without taking the head off? Not a lot of room and its close to the exhaust so im not expecting a lot. Im also hoping to properly fix it after winter if this fix isnt long term.. Thanks in advance, Silverwolf