Silverwolf2691

@Krlspokane12, until you get the nozzles swapped, you are fighting a losing battle. Adding more fuel will just increase heat in your case. You could try pulling the timing back a degree across the board. What did you put in the cruise timing? That said.. you are only going to go so far tuning out heat and smoke until you have a valet tune for a daily tune with the DDPs

This is similar to how mine is set up, but please get rid of the DDPs.. You said you had nozzles so hopefully that will help with the heat issue. Bold are the changes. Stay on level 3 until comfortable with smoke and heat, then go to level 4 and up to adjust wire tap. Power levels: 7 RPM limit: 3400 Max valet mode power: 50 Pump stretch: 1400 TPS pump max: 100 TPS pump min: 20 -> 0 (I've had this set to zero, haven't had problems with smoke. But I do run DAP 50s) Min pump tap fueling: 5 -> 0 (this means you are ALWAYS putting wire tap in once above 5% throttle, if I remember correctly) Pump low boost scale PSI: 8 -> 15 Boost scaling: 30 -> 40 Load timing: 1 Low PSI timing reduct: 2.5 -> 5 Timing reduct scaling: 50 Light throttle timing ADV: 0 ---- need something here, otherwise always in performance range Light throttle timing load limit: 35 ---- Should be much lower, go for a flat highway cruise and see what you load is at, and set 2-3% above that. Usually no more than 27-30. RPM timing max: 1500-14 -> 13 2000-17 2500-20 -> 21 3000-23 -> 25 Max: 26 ->30 (this is what i run, but you could start at 12 like MoparMan said, then do +4, +4.5, or +5 for each rpm range) CanBus fuel ---- start pulling these down after see what the other changes do, no wire tap as low should help immensely. 0-87 1-88 2-89 3-90 4-91 5-92 6-93 7-95 8-97 9-99 10-101 11-102 12-103 13-104 14-105 15-106 16-107 18-108 20-110 22-112 24-114 26-116 28-118 30-120 @Me78569, @Mopar1973Man thoughts?

Did you feel like it slowed down (pitched you forward like a hard brake) at all or like something bound up and released? Could be a wheel bearing that started spinning the race (happened to my dads 300c).. Front u-joint maybe, but usually they click and clunk, not squeal.. I agree with MoparMan on this one might be time to check internals of trans and tcase.

Was rereading the thread and this kind of caught my eye. Sorry, novel incoming.. So @Mopar1973Man's turbo is only 4.5mm smaller on the compressor side but 13.4mm smaller on the turbine side, that's a bit over a half inch in diameter smaller. That, combined with the smaller exhaust housing (12 vs your 14) is part of what allows his turbo to spool so quick. The smaller housing keeps exhaust velocity up and the smaller turbine wheel has lower inertia allowing for the responsiveness. Basically, lighter wheel plus faster moving exhaust gases makes for fast spool. That's why the HE351CW is prized for its spool up ability. Its a 9cm^2 housing with the same sized turbine as the HX35. The other contributing factor is engine load. More load = more heat = more force on the turbine. I'm getting into sled pulling so most of my knowledge is based on this, so please bear with me. The more load = more force on the turbine is why some of the super stock guys (ones with the v-cut tires) sometimes have trouble with getting going in the beginning of the track. Even though they are pushing the motors north of 5500 to 6000 rpm, their turbos, mixed with only one gear create the need to slip the clutch enough to put a load on the motor and create enough boost to make the horsepower and torque needed to launch with 40k+ behind them. If they try to get moving before enough boost is made, the engine rpm falls too much, and falls under the turbo. There's not enough load, or rpm for that matter, to get the weight moving. Usually when they get the reset they rev a bit higher and slip the clutch a bit longer before letting all the way out and letting the truck do the rest. I bring this up because your turbo has a large turbine wheel and larger exhaust housing. That turbo would really shine with high load and higher rpms, it moves lots of air and would have less back pressure so EGTs would stay cooler vs something smaller. At lower rpms however, your turbo has enough open area that the exhaust gas velocity slows down and "blows through" through the turbine's open area without acting on the blades as much. This is an over simplified version and my understanding of how all this works so please take this info with a grain of salt. As for the 7 psi of boost in 2nd, the rpms just rise too fast and the total final drive ratio (trans gear ratio x transfer case ratio x diff gears = final drive ratio**) puts too little load (goes back to mechanical advantage here) on the motor for it to build any heat. Watch the EGT rise difference between 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. Within reason, more engine load = higher EGTs. **this is different than the final ratio that @Mopar1973Man is mentioning. I think his is technically called effective gear ratio. It takes tire height into account to give an equivalent rear axle ratio of what the engine is "seeing." It's an equivalent based on a percentage I believe. The final drive ratio I am talking about is the actual amount of turns the motor will turn per 1 revolution of the wheel, no matter what size tire. Just wanted to keep that clear. I hope this makes sense. and doesn't get too science-y for anyone, or seem like the ramblings of a madman lol. Hope this helps shed some different light on why your turbo spools like it does @YeaImDylan.

That style of bearing has been in use for years, most failures are due to the grease drying out or contamination due to the open design. One thing to remember is that the pilot bearing is only "being a bearing" when the clutch pedal is depressed. Once the pedal is released and the clutch grabs, the needles are stationary. So, yes the bearing needles individually would see high rpm, however it is for intermittent short bursts unless you keep the clutch pedal pressed down at a stop light. But once you get moving, they would slow down until the clutch is released and therefore becomes stationary. I think this is part of the reason that they last so long. Another thing, semi-float axles use the same design of bearing for the axle shaft, so its not uncommon. This is for the 2nd gen Ram 1500 Chrysler 9.25 rear axle, the bearing is located just in from the axle flange.. Chrysler 9.25" Rear Axle Bearing and Seal kit (10048) (lowrangeoffroad.com) Personally never had a problem with that bearing but its lubed a bit more than a pilot bearing (used to have a 2001 ram 1500) Finally, I would agree with @Tractorman in that there isn't very much weight being applied to the pilot bearing, if any. The straightness and weight is supported by the input shaft bearing of the transmission. If you are intent on a sealed bearing, South Bend and Valair sell a sealed ball bearing replacement, HOWEVER, unless you buy their flywheel/clutch, you have to machine your flywheel to accept it.

With 285s, nv5600, and 410s 60 mph is 2k rpm on my truck. Check your glove compartment for a sticker that should have the factory gear ratio on it. You probably have 410s, the 35s are probably accounting for the +5 mph.

found the sole remaining camera flip phone or was a thumbnail that didn't get opened.. jeeze that's bad.. @Dieselfuture, how did the photo get sent to you? Because if its a text it will be shrunk and if you limit your data on your phone it might be shrunk as well. either download the pic over wifi or open the email on a desktop might get better results.... but i'd be asking for clarification on the photo sent for sure.

You can get 40 psi on an hx35, I can push that range with 50s and no wire tap.. In all honesty, I could probably push even more boost if the wastegate was wired shut. At about 38psi of boost I think the drive pressure pushes the wastegate open because even hooked to the sled that's all the boost I was making, even with the boost controller cranked all the way closed. This is not recommended however, because the turbo is out of its map at that range. Its overheating the air its pushing into the intercooler. Also, +90hp injectors sounds like 3rd gen/common rail sizing. Common rails can run a lot larger turbo on a lot less due to more stock fueling capability and the huge amount of timing control they have. Hell, 6.7s can run an s475 and larger when they go to a second gen swap. Second gen sizing is more like: rv275s (+40s), +50s, +75s, +100s, etc. there are a few odd balls out there like F1/Flux Diesel, with +60s, +90s, and 110s, but more the exception than the rule. all those numbers are ±25hp approximately as well. the p-pumps and vp44s in order to get power out of them in a competitive sense, need big injectors and lots of air and become undrivable in some cases due to EGTs, smoke, or hazing at idle. Common rails can be extremely competitive then drive home with the turn of a switch. Quadzilla finally gave us a taste of that with the V2 tuning, maybe not as fast as a switch but still on the fly. @YeaImDylan, this question isn't directed at you specifically , but why is valve lash the first thing people go to for lack of power? Mostly it just quiets down some of the rattle, at least for me.. hopefully last thoughts here, you should try for a daily driving tune first, because a cleaner burning tune that spools well and performs well in every day life can be turned into a race tune very quickly just by just adding some canbus and wire tap, unless you need something very specialty. sorry for the novel, I've just had to look though a lot of the same issue of finding all 3rd gen stuff while looking for 2nd gen stuff. When people start saying that an s369 can spool like stock it definitely isn't second gen lol

I think your injectors are way too small for the s364.5. DAP recommended 7 x .013s with that turbo for sled pulling for me, but he also said 200s would work as well. Swap the 225s back in (if you have them still) and you might just have a monster on your hands. In doing research over that turbo and its semi-cousin the Super B Special (64/71/14) I found that too small of injectors mimic too large of injectors. They can't build enough boost to cool the EGTs and spool suffers because of the lack of force on the turbine (ish.. cant put thoughts to words this morning..). The boost leaks are probably not as impactful as you might think. @Mopar1973Man did some testing, on purpose or accidental I don't remember, but there was a bolt missing and he found little change to EGTs or boost. I had the same experience with my truck. had to drive with a plug missing for a boost sensor or something and besides the whistle from the hole, nothing changed.. not saying leave them, but its not as detrimental as people say they are.

@YeaImDylan, just be aware that since you have the nv5600, its extremely heavy. Its 300+ lbs without the transfer case if I remember correctly from when I had to ship mine out to be rebuilt. Just factor that in if you want to do this yourself... You cannot manhandle this tranny as easily as you can some others. No dual mass flywheels on second gen dodges. And definitely not with a dual disk.

I'm updating this to help anyone who needs help with what to do when this freeze plug. I had access to a lower profile air drill, that is the biggest issue with fixing this while everything is together in the frame of the truck, is space or lack thereof. there isn't much more room than a pipe tap on a ratchet. I used the drill to open up the plug enough that I could thread a tapered point bolt into it. Tightened the bolt and wedged a crowbar against it, the plug popped out Since the tap handle is too big, I used a ratchet to tap a 1/8 NPT thread into the head and installed a brass plug to replace it.

from pavement sucks.com Horn Chirp - Optional This feature is part of the Remote Keyless Entry system. When enabled, this feature generates a single horn chirp when locking the doors with Remote Keyless Entry transmitter. This feature is shipped enabled, but if desired the feature can be disabled by following these steps: 1. Place the key in ignition and turn the key to the ON position (do not start the engine) 2. Press and hold the UNLOCK button on the transmitter for four to ten seconds. 3 While the UNLOCK button is pressed, press the LOCK button on the transmitter and then release both buttons. 4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed. 5. To enable the feature again, follow the above steps. Cant find the light flash, but I don't know if its a thing for our trucks. Also some of these procedures are in the owners manual under remote keyless entry (RKE). There were others but I cant find the site anymore. I think it was dodgeram.org but I cant get to the page... says connection timed out. @BDK, looking around for the above info, I saw that there are ways to program the fobs without the DRBIII, but @Me78569 is correct, you need an existing mated one otherwise a trip to the dealer is needed

There's a way to turn that off, copied from cummins forum: Close all of the doors. Place the key in the ignition and cycle the key from the OFF position to the ON position for a total of four times ending in the ON position, do not start the engine. Press the driver's side power door lock switch to lock the doors within 30 seconds. You will hear a single chime when programming is complete and the automatic door locks feature will be deactivated. To enable the feature again, follow the above steps again. its also possible to turn off the horn honk and light flash when locking in a similar fashion, cant find those yet but I did them to my truck when I got it in 2014-2015.

isn't that what work stock is supposed to be? lol.. With everything i've read about pulling on other forums its getting insane how much power you are wringing from these trucks. nadm and lucas pro pulling are north of 1200hp I believe for the 2.6 class.. Don't know if its happened yet but there's constantly a push for open driveline in 2.6 due to all the breakage of factory 1 ton or less parts. Luckily, our area is much smaller in terms of power meaning, you can drive in, pull, and go home if you don't break anything. Even our enhanced class still has people that drive in and drive home..

Still HX35, still waiting on that money tree to sprout lol. You are actually +100 ahead of me and a larger compressor. Just info gathering right now.. and saving up for some of the more safety based stuff.. driveline shields, traction bars, etc.

Following.. Possibly putting a similar turbo onto my truck eventually..

@dieselautopower, because of the pulling rules for our area, I either have to stay at 63mm or go bigger and get limited to one class.. Would the 63mm compressor work with the 73.4 turbine/12cm^2 housing or would there be a better option? Secondary thought regarding injectors, would a set of +200s from Infinite Performance (8x.010s) be able to spool well with the 73.4 turbine? Also just an update for everyone as well, i'm info gathering right now, and financially other things had to come first so these upgrades have to take back burner for a bit.

@dripley, mind tossing up a photo of the vent visors? Or pm.. Trying not to threadjack too much.. My vent visors are unattached halfway up the a-pillar. Just wondering how they look.

The shaking at highway speeds could be the wheel weights. but I think its a light death wobble.. if i had to guess at what it could be its the steering gear box being loose and when you turn it removes the slop a bit. but i would think that both tires would would be scalloped (one of the actual terms for the alternating tread height you mentioned), not just drivers side.. that leads to ball joints or tie rod ends on the drivers side. you said you are questioning the work put in by the previous owner.. if the ball joints were replaced with marginal quality ones it wouldn't surprise me that they wore out in 19k miles. with the 5 mph vibration, is it speed related? The faster you go the faster it goes? Wheel bearings usually dont stop making noise once they do.. and it seems to start at a higher speed and start lower and lower and get worse and louder as it keeps wearing. this one has me stumped.. Edit for side bar: How do you like your turbo? I'm mulling over getting that one with a 12cm^2 housing..

I can't stand truck tug of wars outside of like vermonster or trucks gone wild. Its a useless way of blowing your truck up, especially when all it takes to win is gearing, weight, and timing the go pedal.. I never did this, just my observations.. How else are you gonna get past the people on the freeway that suddenly speed up as you go to pass them?

I don't remember if the 01s had a software change or if its only the MAP or data link plug. Absolutely. Try racing.. double to triple the cost of anything depending on how far you want to go.. and that's not including the safety gear..

@Doubletrouble, just remember what @Me78569 and @hdpwipmonkey said about the lack of custom tuning. if you get the bigger injectors you wont be able to tune out the smoke. Also, you are dipping your toes into the slippery slope of adding mods for more power. Its a bit addicting. and you might find yourself wanting more. I only bring it up so that you aren't possibly spending money twice. Not trying to kill a deal, just something to think about.

@hdpwipmonkey, is the zxt the same as this adrenaline without the wire tap or is it something entirely different?

So to be clear i'm not asking about the timing difference in the pump.. @Mopar1973Man, with all of the experimenting and tuning you have done, what would the raised compression in an HO motor do to the timing with the quadzilla? I think people can forget that the motors aren't just a pump difference. It's also pistons, injectors, and compression ratio. With the HO motor being 17:1 versus the SO's 16.3:1, would this make a difference enough to have to adjust the timing? Side note: does quad allow half steps/part of a percent in the canbus sliders? my truck lurches a bit when I go from +1 to +2 in the percentages..

@Doubletrouble, not a problem. In all honesty, the hardest thing is trying to understand the quad without having it in your hands. I actually downloaded the app just to play on it and get a feel for where things were months before I actually bought the quad. In regards to the technical part, asking questions is the one thing that you can do to help yourself. Personally I would rather annoy people with questions, than stay quiet and end up hurt/injured or have something break. If you do end up getting a quad, take some time and follow the quadzilla guide posted in the articles and quadzilla power sub-forum I believe. Then experiment. You can get a feel for how the changes affect different aspects of the truck that way. Even if you download a tune off of here, you probably would still have to adjust the tune anyway. I don't know how accurate your signature is but I don't know if a FASS DDRP can keep up with the demand of a quad.. Might want to check that..