Silverwolf2691

Just so I'm clear we are talking about the canister that sits under the exhaust manifold? If you have AN lines already, need some info there.. Did you guys make them or were they premade? If you made them yourself, did the brands match hose to fitting? (meaning you didn't put Earls hose onto Fragola fittings). AN fittings are supposed to seal on the cone faces of male and female fittings. No o-rings should be needed unless using an ORB boss/fitting. If its leaking, tighten it more, then clean the fitting to check for leaks. If it still leaks you can get copper "shims" that get put on the cone face to help the fitting seal again. copper is supposed to be softer than aluminum and seal against imperfections better. Upgrades depend on use. But @pepsi71ocean's statement also has merit. If its a daily driver no heavy towing you can keep it. The only thing I would warn about is that its a coolant to oil cooler. It may fail and put coolant into the tranny.. Towing heavy might be worth the trade off. They do make oil thermostats that just loop oil back into the trans until a certain temp and then open to start flowing into a cooler. Not cheap though.. https://www.improvedracing.com/oil-cooling/oil-thermostats.html

I know a large amount of plugs on our trucks are from Delphi, sold as Metri-pack or Weatherpack connectors. I looked into a full race wire conversion on my truck, "hiding"/routing wires better and to better incorporate some of the electrical add ins. Race spec stuff gets expensive really really fast however. But the two connectors there I don't know.. especially because it seems each plug manufacturer has their own way of crimping terminal ends.. Best bet might be to find someone parting out a Cummins and either straight replace or de-pin, cut and solder to the original harness..

They are located the next town over from me (three technically.. villages make things weird). In fact, I almost worked for them starting as a work based learning from the technical high school I went to. But ,due to a huge communication issue between the school and the company, that didn't pan out. Infiltrator also has something similar to that easy lay pipe you mentioned. On topic, decent storm is just missing south this morning. gonna hit long island and the other islands out there (Block Island, Martha's vineyard, Nantucket, etc), and we are looking at another on friday. Too early to tell on that storm though..

Can y'all send some of the snow to New England? Wait.. maybe I shouldn't put that out into the universe, we'll have a repeat of 2011-2013.. Don't need that.

I seem to remember something about smarty removing the anti stall in standard trans trucks. That was some years ago now though.. Don't know if smarty fixed that. Anti stall is, if I recall, Cummins' way of helping people not stall the truck with a load, it automatically adds fuel if the throttle is still at 0 to keep things moving. It's the puff of black smoke out the exhaust if you take your foot off the clutch just a bit too fast combined with the sudden lurch forward. If there is any throttle input though, anti stall is shut off and you are on your own with the fueling. I think it works like the rental tools at advance. They are loaner tools, but you are actually buying them and returning them. Their way of covering the "I'm just gonna keep this, its really handy" people.

To quote Sherlock of the tv series, "I don't know and I don't like not knowing.." (as long as its something I'm interested in..) The other thing is I'm doing some reading about how to make magnum v8s in the dodges run better and get better fuel economy. Lots of talk about compression and timing with that. Unfortunately it also boils down to you need to machine the block to get it running right.. Everything is fresh in the mind lol.

Is the zero percent load before or after replacing injectors? There's a chance you got bad injectors as a replacement.. Do you have a way to get them pop tested? I think injectors are the only thing that really controls the load percentage...

ctrl+shift+v is another way around the lack of link when copy+pasting..

https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/1101dp-black-sheep-6-4l-cummins-powered-anomaly/ 21:1 compression and 80 psi of boost. 890hp and 1700ft/lbs on fuel only.. On the decompressed pulling trucks, they are running 13-15:1 compression but with 110-150+ psi of boost. They are also running 40+ degrees for timing, because that's where the power is and that's the lead time needed to inject the volume of fuel and have it light off properly. Lowered compression isnt just for boost.. Air you can compress quite a bit (read as going supercritical, existing as a gas and liquid at the same time) before you have problems, fuel not so much. The lowered compression ratio in race rigs is also so that the piston can deal with the shear volume of fuel that these guys are pushing. Sigma pumps I think start at 16mm for plunger diameter. They can flow 1,600cc of fuel. Factory 12mm p-pumps flow about 125cc. Warmed over 12mm p-pumps are about 400-500cc's. What that volume is in reference to, whether rpm or time based, I don't know. [Figured it out. cubic centimeters per 1000 strokes, per cylinder.] And another thing, if for a given known volume, if you can compress the air faster, resulting in a faster temp rise, would that not light off fuel with a known flash point faster than one that is slower in temp rise? Think of an SCBA bottle and how slow you have to fill those up to keep heat down.. faster filling/compression, higher heat. I think you are arguing the wrong point. Sure, overall, compression adds to the torque, but we aren't arguing that, for timing we are looking for the usable window of how quickly the air is heated to a usable level.. It's more along the same lines of cetane (higher cetane, lower flash point, to an extent). We aren't talking in tens of degrees either. I think its only a 2 degree retard that is built into the timing map of an HO Cummins vs an SO Cummins. In all of our experimenting with the quad, we have found how much a difference even half a degree of timing makes in our trucks, and now we are talking about a two degree difference with definite changes if pumps are swapped. @jag, I would wager a guess that you found the amount of advance that hot rod pumps have built in. And possibly the factory timing curve.. @jag, do you have a hotrod pump made by someone else (industrial/scheid) and sold by BD or is it their (BD's) special high output pump? Rumor has it most hot rod pumps are built on an HO base with the SO pistons and distributor rotor, then an amount of mechanical advance is added in. How? I don't know. If they are built on an HO pump base then it makes sense why his 1500 band is 16°, because its 5° advanced. Giving his truck technically 5°-35° of timing based on the limitations of the pump. And it has to work on "factory" timing, no cruise or retard because his setup cant handle it. As far as I remember, the quad uses the factory timing number as the low limit in the 1500 band with the 1500 band being the maximum "unmodified" timing limit. Then set the 2000 max and the quad uses the 1500 setting as its low limit. Repeat for the other bands. If I recall, the factory timing doesn't move very much based on load or boost, just rpm. The quad adds a lot of movement in the timing maps with, for some, 6° or more jumps between cruise advance and the max load/low psi timing retard..

Everyone has said something along those lines but no one has shown that..

Makes me wonder if/to what extent boost impacts timing then. Might be more so "available" timing. Don't know yet, gotta mull this one over. TBH, completely forgot about the boost aspect. The 5th gen CGI block Cummins are actually both the highest and lowest compression ratios. 16.2 is the HO and 19 is the SO. 03-18 Cummins are 17.3. Just for reference

Hydroboost more or less is just the same as the vacuum booster on a gas vehicle. All it does is adds force to your pedal effort. The hydroboost and brake master are completely separate systems still. There is a seal inside the vacuum pump that seals the engine oil inside the vacuum pump instead of leaking out the coupling are for both pumps. In order to get the seal out I think you have to disassemble the vacuum pump and essentially rebuild it. Its been a while since I did mine so my memory is a bit foggy on that.

Octane is the ability to resist compression ignition. Too low of octane and pre-ignition knock could occur. Cetane is the ability to promote compression ignition. High cetane will ignite easier in the colder mornings, comes with a cost of lower BTU's. As stated from ASTM Labs... There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!! Fair enough, but we have next to no control over what cetane is coming out of the pump. All we know is, at least in my neck of the woods, is it's a minimum of 40 (at least that's what the button says). So removing cetane as a variable and putting a fixed number on it (say 40), would a diesel engine with 16.3:1 (SO Cummins) compression ratio light off later than a diesel engine with 17:1 (HO Cummins) compression with the same cetane? After typing that out, I think I got things mixed up.. later ignition would need more retard while earlier ignition would need more advancement, right?

I'm not arguing use.. There's one factor that I think gets over looked often. There are 2 factory vp44s. The SO and the HO. Both have their differences in fueling and timing. This I think is why my truck has 11 degrees as an idle state. I think the HO pump has a retarded timing curve, not advanced. Everyone says that when people switched from an HO pump to an SO pump felt a loss in low end power but gained more high end power. How else would that happen besides timing? The top end power loss could be explained with the 0.5mm smaller plungers on the HO, but that feels like only half the reason. My truck bucked taking off with 4.10s and undersized tires (for 4.10s, 285/70r17) at 13 degrees of timing. Most people would put that at enough mechanical advantage to be "effortless" on the motor. Dropped the 2 degrees and no more bucking. There are other differences between the HO and the SO truck itself as well; different factory injectors, higher compression pistons, different ECU programming.. The injectors, once swapped out, become a moot point. The ECU programming I'm not sure of. I don't know if the quad takes factory and adds/subtracts to it or if it "blocks" the signal from the ECU and puts its own in its place. The higher compression I believe should be accounted for because its nearly a full point higher, 0.7 to be exact. That would cause higher cylinder air temps and earlier ignition of the fuel. In the gas world that's the difference between regular and premium with recurved ignition timing. But I know gas and diesel don't translate well to each other in regards to mods.. take it for what its worth.. I'm not trying to debunk everything you have found out, I'm just trying to say that you might have only worked one angle of it, and there might be other ways of approaching this. As I said in the previous post, its a theory I'm working on. Whether or not there is merit to it remains to be seen.

My DAP 50s are 7x.0085 as far as I'm aware.. so his might be 7x.009.. [double checked, mine should be 7x.008 not 7x.0085.] After talking with @dieselautopower for a while about injectors, its become clear why there is so much ambiguity with the horsepower rating system of injectors. There are too many variables: hole size, number of holes, spray angle, pop pressure, engine setup, turbo setup, internal injector mods.. there is just too much to just quantify injectors at a horsepower number. But since that is the "industry standard" here we are. @James T, there are tuning guides in the quadzilla section under vendors to help you get started, fueling wise. How long ago did you get the injectors? I heard a rumor that DDP is trying to clean themselves up from their past image (pun intended). They were known for being a dirty and hot injector because of the spray angle (I think they used a marine injector) and quality of machining if I remember correctly. I'm curious how your setup runs. @Mopar1973Man posted as I was writing this, pop pressures are not helping the issue, but they can't fix bad spray angles. I'm not familiar with the timing of an auto trans, but I have a theory I'm working on. Use your idle timing number (whole number) as your 1500 band, then go up from there +4 or +4.5. It seems to line up with what I have observed over the couple years I've been on here. My truck idles at 11.2x, so my 1500 band is 11 and I go up either 4 or 4.5. I cant remember from the last time I played with my tune. @Mopar1973Man I think idles at 13.XX and that's where he starts his timing curve (13).. Correlation maybe, but its something I've been meaning to post up about. Unless you are racing, you should copy the same timing curve into all of your tunes as well.

I used 1AAuto but I got upgraded ones. Power, heat, blinker.. All in the regular towing mirror package. After having a 5th gen though, I highly recommend getting that style mirror if you tow often. The convex mirror allows you to see so much to the sides when in tow mode.

Unplug the quad fram the MAP sensor and plug it back into the truck harness.. its sluggish because the ecu is essentially reading zero boost at all rpms/throttle positions. I do agree that jump protection should have been something from the start.. its just not something you think about when jump starting a truck.. you're stressed out or time crunched on top of being stressed out. The last thing on your mind is "oh i need to unhook my tuner." @Tractorman, i dont think legal recourse is possible due to the fact that it is in the installation manual.. dont know..

Looks like the v10 radiator. Same-ish width as a diesel but only one row (not 2 or 3 that I think ours is) and only the height of a gas radiator

By slip yoke are you referring to the outer telescoping part? Thats the only thing I seem to remember being big enough to house something like that.. Never would have thought that that was inside.. huh.. learned something new this morning.

Just remember to have everything straight before grinding that flat..

12-16-21 we hit almost 60°f in New England, specifically southern CT. A couple weeks ago we had 8 tornadoes come across northern ct and eastern mass with a cold front (nothing more than EF1) . We have been ranging from high 40s to low 50s on average. nights ranging from upper 20s to middle upper 30s. Saw snow once so far. and it didn't stick at all. Other places have had maybe an inch or so of snow. I have a feeling we are gonna repeat last year, as soon as new years hits the bottom is gonna drop out on the temps and we will actually be in winter. But white Christmas odds are still up in the air right now for us. There's a chance of an off shore storm to clip close enough to hit us with some snow.

Time to bring this back again. Wiped my turbo bearings last week. Turbo started making some weird noises over 10 psi. Thought it was a boost leak from the intercooler boot I messed with due to it rubbing through my lower coolant hose. Then over a couple days the sound started to change to a warbling hiss.. pulled the intake off no marks in the inside of the housing.. grab the wheel, no in and out movement. Go side to side, didn't move at first.. then dad tried and I started hearing clicking of metal.. ****.. Grabbed it and yeah its moving. Probably .030-.050 total from side to side. So that just moved things around for plans.. @dieselautopower, since I'm at sea level to 1500ft where I pull, is there any issue with this compressor? I'm just asking because of the high altitude qualifier you put next to it.. Also I saw a dyno video from Power Driven Diesel where the 63 did not so great compared to a 62 and a 64.5.. They are also high elevation too (town is at 5800ft).. Here's the video from Power Driven Diesel

Just keep it lubed where it telescopes. That's the biggest complaint I heard when I had mine, the shaft rusted solid. The other complaint was it is just 2 set screws holding it on each shaft, hot a compression lock like factory. People didn't trust it. I think it helped my 1500 along with everything else I did. That truck handled like it was on rails, and was nearly as responsive as a rack and pinion steering setup.. I think if you don't use their box, you have to grind away part of the input shaft on the box as well. Check the bottom of the steering column (engine side), grab the shaft and shake it, If it moves the bearing in the bottom if the steering column is bad. Rock solid ram bushing is the fix for that.

Is there a difference between the early 2nd gens and later second gens in regards to the heater box? My moms truck is smoking out of the vents and is an early interior 2nd gen. Need to start gathering parts and was wondering what swaps between the them

When i installed my track bar there were 3 things to drill out. Two are the engine crossmember horizontally with bushings. Need to drill out with a hole saw.. then there is a vertical one in the cross member as well. I installed mine 5 yrs ago though, don't know if they updated the design