Silverwolf2691

Took my dog out for the night and took a look at the sending unit. Turns out the hearter core return pipe got tweaked onto the top of the sending unit when we were putting the down pipe on yesterday. So i tweaked it back away from it. See how it is in the morning.

New thing i need to diagnose. After getting my down pipe in, my Quadzilla is reading solid 300* tranny temps (engine oil temp for me) even cold.. Havent looked for anything yet.. didnt have a chance yet today.

Have you thought about the actual sensor being bad? I know you already sent it out though.. Unless i missed where you mentioned your results with the sender

Got my exhaust all back together this weekend. Found a 409 stainless 4" x 60" piece of pipe on Amazon for about $75. Everything seems to just be 48" max length or all the way to like 7.5 feet. I'm glad I found it so that I didn't have to add another clamp and 13-18? inches of pipe. Now just have to get my injectors in and swap a cylinder head. Need to get my little green truck on the road, and sell my 2019 first though.. Green truck needs to be insured and registered but is mostly road worthy. Needs tires, a front end rebuild, a catalytic converter, and muffler to be a decent daily driver. Hoping for this week to be registered but we'll see.

150s I don't think are big enough to start having issues starting. Its then you get to the like 300hp (7x.013) range and above. Even less of an issue if you keep the truck plugged in. S364 is on the large to very large side of 150s, depending on the turbine and turbine housing. You would be better off with 200-250s. Speaking as someone who just went through this, figure out your use of the vehicle, pick a horsepower goal, then pick the turbo, then pick injectors. @Mopar1973Man lives in a similar area/climate as you and has a nearly identical setup to what you mentioned. @dieselautopower can also help once you have an idea for usage and power goals.

k27 or s300g would probably be best if you are gonna stay at this power level. s362/65/12 would be the next step up if you were going bigger for injectors. HX35/40 hybrid would be a good option if you have an exhaust brake on the factory HX35 he351cw is a very fast spooling turbo from the 05-07 (I think) common rail Cummins trucks. Its not a bolt on though. Needs parts fabbed to install. he351 is also an option, @LorenS could expand on that a bit more. (different exhaust housing) @Stanley is also right, look into a bigger clutch if you haven't already. A rebuild kit for an HX35 is not that expensive, around $100, but getting the turbo open is the hard part. Where did you find the oil? On the blades or did you take the cover(s) off already?

That surge you are hearing is the timing going nuts most likely. Going from -40 timing to operating temp timing is a 4-5+ degree difference if I remember correctly. Check wires then check the sensor..

What kind of engine build did you do? You had photos of the engine on a stand in another thread.. It might be your turbo for the EGTs.. the 71 turbine in the super b was known as a low drive pressure wheel so it flowed a lot but didnt spool well. The newer 73.4 supposedly spools much better. If there was a way to get a 12cm housing on the 71 that might help too. As for the white smoke not sure on that..

1984s motto is Big Brother is watching. Also they have thought crimes (yes, if you merely think about doing something against Big Brother you could get brought in and "reprocessed" to go back into the public. And anyone can turn you in). The book isnt overly long, just around 150-200 pages. The movie more or less follows the book. Some stuff gets lost in the adaptation as always. It is a bit boring in the first half. World and character building then things hit a bit of the go button.. Its not an action movie, and if i remember it was a British movie so its a bit dry. Trying to remember back to high school, 2010 area.. 1984 was meant as a warning to us, but somehow people took it as an instruction manual. Also the book was written in 1949.

What cant you figure out?

Bit of both i run 11, 15, 19, 23, 30 normally. But i had to pull it even further down to help spool the turbo with injectors that are probably way too small for it. Hard to drive the truck right now without going deaf, but i have parts on the way for that. Just hard to find 4" pipe longer than 48". Needed like 60..

That explains the 3.xx I see on the quad with the key on engine off then. Damn that blows my idea for using the quad to pull timing and advance the timing gear a tooth for sled pulling.. Bummer..

Playing around on my quad yesterday and I discovered something. 8 degrees is the bottom of the timing scale. Unless the timing sliders can pull that down further. Gonna try getting the 35s on before futzing with the tune any more.. Despite the time change I'm glad for more sun after like 530-6. Makes working on the truck after work much easier

@wil440, thank you for explaining the oil sample material breakdown. I've wanted to do that for my truck but if all I get is a material list with materials and numbers with no explanation, its not helpful to me. @YeaImDylan, the blue smoke is likely oil past the valve seals. My truck does the same thing. #1 intake valve seal is moving with the valve stem, instead of staying still. I was sled pulling on a gallon of oil at one point this year. I'm not proud it at all. Only indication was low oil pressure.. The semi saving grace of diesel fuel is that it is (I don't know a better way of putting this..) more slippery than gasoline. So it doesn't immediately kill all the lubrication of the oil when the fuel gets in. Blackstone labs is a popular choice for oil analysis, Amsoil sells sample kits but makes no mention of them doing an analysis.

EGTs are a bit better with more fuel and pulling some timing, but it still wont build above 25 psi. Might be in the too small realm for injectors.. Also there is like a 3 to 5 psi lag in the quad for reading the map sensor vs the boost gauge.. I know that's been discussed for a while already so it is what it is.. Need to order a pipe for the exhaust, downpipe only resonates the cab something fierce. And put my 35s on.

On desktop, go to your profile in the upper right, click, go to account settings, click, then go to signature. On mobile, tap the three bars in the upper right, then tap on account settings. There's a drop down called settings area, tap that, then tap signature. Edit: I didn't look close enough to see that you changed it already. Time change has me all messed up.

Should be fine..

The oil filter is the first thing to see oil and pressure so technically the oil sending unit is not in an optimal spot. What are you thinking with the second oil pressure gauge? More accuracy?

Lots of theories.. dont know the validity of them.. One is shift quality, one is fluid continuity across models. The nv4500 is actually the outlier with its own fluid. The nv3500s in the 1500s ran synchromesh oil. Nv4500s had carbon fiber lined synchros instead of the standard brass, needing the different fluid. I agree with @Mopar1973Man in that the synchromesh is not the best fluid for the application (in my opinion). Its not an extreme pressure rated fluid and with the torque of these engines, especially turned up, its not enough cushion on the parts. I realize that @Mopar1973Man had no issues in winter with the sae 50, but i tried nv4500 fluid in my truck and it started grinding the 2-3 shift slightly. I dont know how a fluid even thicker would fare in an nv5600. I think i had found an sae 30 or 40 from mobil1 that was close in viscosity, never bought it though. The other thing is that one of the bearings in the back of the tranny is known for going bad at the factory fill so people add a quart over to flood the bearing. Ill probably be switch to an sae 50 this year for the pulling season though..

SHE LIVES! Not without some hiccups though. Had to make a bracket to get the wastegate actuator to line up right. Post photos in the morning. Need a serious retune in the quad. Never seen my 50s hit 1400* before (was my sled pull tune, starts at 115 and goes up to 150 by 22 psi and a whacky timing curve) Never got above 25 psi, not sure why.. @dieselautopower, I haven't gotten my 35s on yet, could that be hindering the load on the truck? Currently 285/70r17. Also the actuator pushes on the arm to actuate the wastegate flaps, correct? Otherwise I need to fix where the actuator is on the linkage..

Haven't used them yet but Allstate Gear has loads of parts for almost anything that was available in a truck. https://www.allstategear.com/NV5600-Transmission-Parts-s/1516.htm

Just binged this whole thread, your skills are amazing. Just a few questions though: What seats are those? What are you doing for the rear seats? Plans for upholstery/interior? How did you come up with the door latches, rear power windows, and rear hinges? Were they modified premade? Entirely custom? I'm seriously in awe with this project. Kinda makes me want to do a frame off on Midna (my 01 2500).. but that's another story..

Not wrong. Hell I think I actually found a how to on how to make an oven from almost scratch for it as well on YouTube. btw nice garage setup you got there.

I know bicycle brake cable isn't strong enough but something like that would be awesome.. I think you might be thinking of the boost elbow..

As with any painting, preparation is key. I know there is an off gas step that requires a pre-bake at like 450°F to burn off all the oil and stuff then a sand blast.. There's a lot to it..