Silverwolf2691

Mike, what does your fuel curve look like? I had a thought rereading this.. If I had to guess the small compound thing was based around the 12v crowd and early 24v tuners. A way to have bigger injectors while keeping things cool and relatively smoke free when going bigger on injectors. Especially due to the lack of on the fly timing and fueling in a 12v. The control that we have now over fuel and timing allow us to utilize a larger group of smaller single turbos and still keep things cool and smoke free. Just my thoughts^ I hate doing the whole turbo talk thing.. it's very subjective.. the only hard data we have is wheel and housing sizes and turbo efficiency maps (and the general person is gonna go crosseyed trying to interpret those at first glance). Spool up times are generally very setup dependent and are a subjective number. Then add in multiple turbos or turbos off other engines (big rigs and tractors) and all bets are off. Then add in the "one persons lag is another person's fast spool" aspect and things get muddy fast. Im gonna stop there otherwise im gonna need a new thread..

Probably the only turbo that would give stock like spool with more flow on both sides would be the he351cw. Otherwise every size larger of any aspect of a turbo will slow spool. Next closest would be k27, gxe, or the small hx super 9. He351ve is in there too but has much more needed to get it installed. Then 62/65/12 sxe or the larger hx super 9... For the rpm range you want, smaller wheels would be better, especially since the sxe line doesnt have a 9 cm housing.

@Andyba20, what are the rest of the specs on the turbo? My brothers second gen had a 62/65/12 and was spooled relatively quick (15-1700 rpm-ish).. My 62/68/14 wont spool until after 2k rpm. (Waiting till after the holidays to find a 12 cm housing..)

How the slip yoke? Might be worth pulling the driveshaft and seeing if there's a groove worn into it. Unless that's not where it's leaking from.. better to replace that and the seal than rebuild a whole tranny..

Discord is free for normal use, unless we want to get special emojis specific to the channel. Can have chat threads, video, voice only, admin only announcements channels, vip/member only channels, stream live content.. I'd have to dig a bit more.. my usage has been on the member of side, not running a channel side. The pc Gaming community uses Discord the most i believe. Even game developers use Discord so that they can interact with their community and get bug information or just general feedback on their games.

Only a few years after auto meter.. unless isspro is significantly cheaper.. Auto meter elite series have done that for a while now, with.. but 250-300 a gauge is a lot.. sorry if that comes across overly salty.. ive been drooling over the autometers for a while now.. a full dash with those in it would be just *chef kiss* lol. Good to know on the rest though..

@Mopar1973Man, do you still use OBDlink for some gauges? Just curious..

We had 50s then this previous weekend it was 75-80 then overnight to today the temp dropped to the 40s this morning. No snow even being hinted at yet. Hopefully not any time soon, not prepared yet.. Working overtime at my job sapped me of energy, though we had to back off since part of our business slowed way down. Plus I don't have time to get on the forum during working hours any more. No dedicated lunch time either..

Trying to decide what to do next for a clutch.. was thinking kennys triple sintered diaphragm clutch or a valair street triple which i think is ceramic.. Can you explain the billet flywheel? Or is that the SFI rated stuff? Need something that can hold up to sled pulling and that can drive on the street. Not towing anything more than a landscape trailer to move someone to their new house, and that is infrequent at best.

Had my 2nd best pull ever this year, 323.xx ft... then they changed the sled on me. The repull was 171.xx... Overall, this year I got 2nd place. Learned some stuff. And where my limitations/short comings are.. Mostly, I have the power now, but I need to get the power to the ground better.. and a new clutch.. mine just about gave up the ghost on my last pull of the season. I'll get the video up soon.

Did that one. You have to hug the engine with your head resting on the cowl.. Have a photo of me doing that somewhere.. Best to remove the hook point for a hoist as well. edit: found it. Me 5 years ago..

Might have the updated case already... Definitely worth looking at.

For the most part, the 3 piece ones don't help power much. They are mostly used to help with the cracking issues that some have experienced. The two that are known for more power are the stainless diesel manifold and steed speed. Both are more expensive than the 3 piece ones though. There are a couple equal length tubular manifolds as well, but those have other issues, including cost. Equal length ones will change the sound quite a bit. They also have some cracking issues but I believe that is similar to gasser header cracking issues. They are more expensive than steed and stainless. Edit: this is @VMac822.. didn't realize that initially lol. @VMac822did you have another video with this header or is this the only one? There was another tubular header cummins with a Garrett turbo that I can't find the video of. Steed speed is well known in the performance realm. They flow more than factory due to better design and smoother Insides since it is machined and welded together versus sand cast. They have have a competition manifold as well but it probably kills streetability because it would slow down exhaust gas velocity at normal rpms. This kind of comes down to what you are looking for. All the options I listed are expensive but are known to improve power, however they are expensive. If you don't care about power but cost is important, stick with a 3 piece or similar.

I looked at them when i was searching for turbos.. No other experience besides looking at their site. Power driven diesel sells a similar piece under the same name as well.. might be the same part .. I think its closer to an HX40 CHRA with a modded HY35 turbine housing.. not sure on the compressor housing, might be worked over HX35 or regular HX40..

Took the turbo apart this past Sunday to check on the wastegate pucks.. they were off just enough to rattle when poked with a screw driver.. 2-3 turns shortened up the rod enough to seat them.. also had a small leak at the manifold gasket.. spools a lot better now.. starts building boost at 1800-2000 rpm now.. No boost leaks either.. figure I’d share my most recent pull too

To the best of my knowledge our engines are internal balance not external balance.. should be no issues with running no converter or clutch..

Been dealing with BS with the dealer and my challenger for the past 3 weeks.. They keep telling me its gonna be done that day, but they dont know that i know, that all of my parts are back ordered.. havent been able to look at things yet because the sled pulling truck is being my daily right now.. plus got covid again plus working OT at work.. need to decide what im gonna do, take the car back until parts come in or wait out the next 2-3+ weeks until parts come.. Logic says take the car back.. I think when i modified the mount of the canister i shortened the rod too much unintentionally and i think the pucks might be just off their resting points.. I think im just gonna pull the housing off and see how things are lining up.. Idk, cant get it to spool below 2000-2200 rpm, there's just nothing there. Kind of why I want the 12cm housing.. should help pull the RPMs down into a usable range.. I'll check the current one first to rule out any issue there first.

@Sycostang67, no reduction in strength.. the company I went with has customers that put over 2500 ft lbs through their driveshafts. Granted 1480 ujoints but still.. http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Truckhtml/Dodge truck.html the guys i went with

I have one. Got it from driveshaft specialist out of texas. Its .125 wall, 5 inch dia. aluminum piece. Pros: less weight, less parts to replace, slightly less jumping around while engaging the clutch. Cons: initial buy in cost, change in low rpm gear rollover noise while driving, cant go over 95-100 mph (may experience sudden rapid self disassembly). They need measurements from you so just be ready to measure your driveshaft.

@dieselautopower, can’t shorten the wastegate.. unless i cut down the threaded sleeve.. @Mopar1973Man, I’m assuming that’s what’s happened.. hope it’s not bad enough that the valve stems are getting torn up.. not sure which is harder, probably the valve stems..

Some more details.. Model wise its not a cp3, but its called the CPISB21.. Physically, its a cp3, or closely based on a cp3.. Rumor is, due to something im forgetting or saving face, they cant install something 'old' as a fix. so they renamed it something new and upped the pressures if i remember correctly. Currently the recall is for both model years but only the 2020s are getting the fix.. Some difference between the two model years is enough to mess with it apparently.. This is coming from my dad who works in the parts room at a dodge dealership. Glad to see that the front timing case desnt have to come off. That was the original idea that another forum thought that the fix was gonna be, new front cover from the 2021+ cp3 trucks to go with the new cp3.. This info is 6 months to a year old from what i remember from hdrams forum. Havent gone on there in a while, not up to date on full specifics..

Gotta update my sig.. no, I’m running the 7x011 SACs popped at 320 you guys set up for me.. don’t know yet on the waste gate.. fighting smoke right now as well but with 5 of 12 exhaust valve seals not sealing properly (one each cylinders 1-4, both on cylinder 5 I think), not sure how much is oil burning and how much is fuel..

@dieselautopower, how much for a 12cm^2 gated t3 68mm turbine housing? I looked at the site but didn’t see any, they out of stock? Also I’m only getting 25 psi max. I know you said it was more efficient but does that sound right?

@Caleb Hardy, filling out you signature would help a bit too, your garage says you have an Allison trans, 4.10's and 245/75r16's. That all still true? 4.10's should be up in the 35 inch tire range.. not in 245/75r16 range.. Still wouldnt help the idle engine load at 20+ though.. Unless your converter is super tight but even then I'm not sure...

Sorry for dissapearing for the past few weeks, getting settled into the new job, vacation, and surgury has taken a lot of time and energy out of me. Finally got the rest of my upgrades installed that i got from @dieselautopower. Then 2 weeks later got my first sled pull of the year squared away. Gave it a proper stress test by not putting it in the right gear and carrying 3500 rpm down the track .. Whoops... Sounded good and strong though.. While doing the install on the valve springs i found that not 1, not 2, but 5 exhaust valve seals were borked... Either the tension ring was popped off or the top part of the viton was torn off. Gonna have to look closer as to why later.. Also considering getting a 12cm^2 housing.. the daily drive with the 14 is a bit rough.. seems to keep cool with the pulls though so we'll see. Got rid of my 2019 finally, got a used 2016 Challenger SXT instead.. Also traded my 99 ram 1500 for it.. we'll see how this one fares.