Silverwolf2691

Have 5100s. Supposed to be Carli tuned, got them through CJC off-road. Didn't notice a difference between my 195k factory shocks and these.

$3.59 was my most recent fill up. Paid $3.85 for a splash prior to. Biggest issue I come across is we have the $85/90/100 limit at most gas stations here. Nothing like paying 85 dollars then re-swiping for 6 bucks more in fuel.. Haven't seen 2022s yet but I think its the same body style (4.5/5th gen). Fingers crossed it doesn't happen..

Ive only seen the stoplight when they are fixing a bridge on a main route with no detour nearby. They do one lane at a time. But they load up a full set of new power lines and power poles.

That too. Also Sherlocks "i dont know and i dont like not knowing."

Flaggers here will literally stand in the lane to get people to stop. That was flagger training 101 with the fire dept. Be visible and communicate with command and the other flagger.. if you only have one person, you stand in the middle able to be seen from both lanes.. sheesh..

35s are the largest tire without a lift but you will have rubbing. A level kit would help a bit. 37s need a lift.. unless you are willing to Sawzall your fenders. But you will still have rubbing on your control arms.. If you dig around on tiresize.com you can find all sorts of interesting tire sizes.. bfg a/t ko2s come in a 34x11.5 or 10.5 by 17 for instance. Comes to a 3.69 effective ratio btw. At least for my truck.. they also list tire weights too

Theres a saying that i cant remember the exact wording but its something along the lines of If you dont know what is going on how can you correct, fix, or learn from it.. Thats how im learning im maxed out on fuel right now. One of my even more recent runs was on a sandy clay track that had a heavy dew settle on. Turned extremely slick. Thats how i learned that my truck can turn 34-3500 rpm down the track. But track speed was only 9 mph. Wheel speed was 19. Went 2nd high the next time because i got first pull of the class and mph stayed the same.. Data is good as long as you know how to read and interpret it.

I think I figured out what those dips are. Lines 33-39, and the ones in the latter half of the graph (past line 61) are the computer pulling fuel to keep rpm down. From looking at my other graphs, I think the computer is doing a forecasting calculation to see if the rpms are going high enough to pull fuel to keep an over rev from happening. If not, there is some comparing between RPM, wheel speed, canbus fuel, and throttle position to figure out when to pull fuel. There seems to be no direct correlation between an RPM threshold and it pulling fuel, unless its not visible with the quarter second resolution that the quad has. This is why I think that the dips are what I think they are. This was one of my more recent sled pulls (9-17-21). The track was very very hard at the start of the event, and stayed hard all night. This was actually my 3rd place night.. 4th gear low range, this was my test pull, pulled 242.19 on a 250ft track. Sled operator increased the weight after me because I'm the least powered in the diesel class right now. Anyway, where the purple and yellow lines start to dip is between 2850 and 3050 for RPM. With some of the highest rpm where the "lowest" fuel is. I think that the high spot for the rpm was a softer spot in the track. My second pull that night, same track, 4th low, but faster weight box I think. I also maxed out my wiretap this round as well. The rpm peak was only 3030 and dropped off to 2775. But this one averaged in the 2800 range vs the high 2900 range on the first pull. Pulled to 219.4ft. Both vehicle speeds topped out at 17 mph. I also found that my map sensor is reading correct. I see 35+ on the street while shifting up to speed, but going down the track the boost is only 30 psi (both of these are on my Isspro gauges). I'm guessing its the falling rpm that's building the boost while on the street vs the constant high rpm of sled pulling.

Look for the HD version of the Moog track bar. The tie rod end is larger. But don't expect miracles.. When you get the DOR track bar, swap the Johnny Joint zerk with a 45° zerk fitting. The box on the axle is just too small to get the grease gun into, at least it is on my truck..

I'll offer my opinion too, 350-400 horse is doable with a Quad and injectors. If you are staying towards the small end of the range id say a quad/7x009s(100s area)/new turbo. Options would be a hybrid hx35/40 like @Mopar1973Man has, a k27 (maybe) or the g-xe 57/65/12, he351w 60/60/12, or even an he351cw 60/60/9 (if you're up for some fabrication). If you want to go toward the big end id say Quad/7x010s(150s)/new turbo, options being a 62/65/12, 62/68/12, a worked over hx35 for 62/67/12 but the hx is an old design and there are better out there. The 65 will spool lower in the power band while the the 68 will flow better up top and might take a smidgen longer to spool. Personally, unless you are racing or pulling grades often, I'd go with the 62/65/12 with 150s. You can turn the power down with the Quad, and if you get the crazy idea of spanking a (insert car here), you have a capable turbo and enough fuel overhead to play at full power. @Stanley is right as well, once you cross above a 63mm turbo, you start getting not towing friendly, too big to spool, more parts to make everything happy. At 350-400hp I wouldn't start thinking about twins, unless you live really high up and even then its questionable. Above 500 is when people start thinking about twins to tow.

I was wondering if the pump inlet was one of the limitations. Seems so.. Wonder if it can keep up with sled pulling rpms..

For some 435k miles IS forever. At my normal-ish miles per year (10-12k) it would take 36.25-43.5 years to do that from new..

@LorenS, would seem I'm wrong lol. I'm fine eating some crow. I forgot about how everything interacts with the vp44 timing/fueling tables. With the tach working however, I don't know if its the ground. I think we will find out from the ohm test Mike mentioned. What are the odds the computer is trying to go high idle? Listening to the videos it sounds like its hitting the accelerator pedal on its own and then backing off.. Don't know if there's a delay for the factory high idle after it shuts off (up to temp). Bit of extra torque from the rpm increase moves the motor to connect the circuit and drops out of high idle, then sees -40 because the motor moved back, and wants to bump the rpms again... repeat ad nauseum.

All the wiring maps are here. 3 pages of grounds for these trucks. I think you have a break some where in the wiring. With no sensor hooked up it should read -40°F because its an open circuit (I think). Are there any codes being set? p0117 or p0118 are coolant temp sensor high and low respectively. If its staying at -40 for a long time it should set a code for coolant temp too low.. I don't think that that will fix your surging though. How many miles are on the truck? Post the video to YouTube then post the link here. Might help us determine what actually is happening.

You've teased this pump a few times now.. Are you able to divulge any of the secrets? I know a monster pump did that a few years ago. Jeeze this was in 2013.. Feels like forever ago and just last year at the same time..

The other hard part is some of that stuff is from 2009 and things have changed somewhat in the performance arena since then.

Both/either. You have the option of what method to use.

Tap the throttle to cancel the turbo timer.. Gonna sound a bit weird as it shuts down while trying to add fuel.

He said he351vgt with a custom controller

That topic needs its own thread.. SAC vs VCO is a semi debated topic in the diesel performance world..

@Doubletrouble, no it wasn't the fireball. Looks like Mike rushed a bit on that post..

@Sycostang67, I'm assuming you got an Onn tablet from Wal-Mart. Had one and would be dead in a couple hours and take even longer to charge. Swapped to a Samsung galaxy tab a10, haven't had a problem. The better thing about this version of quadzilla versus the older one is it is a lot harder to make the truck undrivable. Black smoke and some bucking is about all you could get. @Evan, turbo timer shuts it down at a user set temperature. Personally, I don't use it because I'm like you, I can go from a sled pull (1150°F) to the pits (all 300-500ft of driving) and be down to 300°F. I think it might have been a hold over from when wrapping your manifold and housing with the turbo and manifold blankets was popular. Its purpose was to cool the housing down so that the oil didn't have a chance to sit and cook/burn due to the remaining heat. Oil flow also helped cool the turbo, specifically the center bearing areas. There is only the default tune when you first load up the quad and its not a good tune. You need to make a custom tune in order to play with the tuning parameters.

Turbo labs of America was the only one I know of that has a .84. It was HX housing based but undivided. Never mind its a .82 housing for an HX40.. http://turbolabofamerica.com/tag/holset-hx40-exhaust-housing/

@dieselautopower, what are your thoughts on his turbo(66/65/.84)? Is that combination even an option from BorgWarner?

I'm guessing you are rpm limited now.. or too much back pressure. The he351vgt should be a better match for what you have, if a bit small. A 63/68/12 might be better.. @dieselautopower might be a bit more help with the turbo.. If you dont want to continue with the vgt.