Octafish

I would recommend not skimping on injectors. Get new bodies. I tried remans with not great results. Had to replace them within 20,000 mi. Close friend who is the GM of my local diesel FI shop told me they were totally worn out.

I've ran Bilsteins and KYB's on several of my trucks. I just didn't think Bilsteins are any better. Plus I've had 2 Bilsteins go bad. Never expected that.

dripley, Did you ever throw a code ?

Yes sir. I guess I depend to much on my trusty CEL.

Update: Replaced the MAP sensor and all is good. Now both gauges are just a few pounds different. The truck never threw a code on this one. Oh well... Everyone, thanks for your help.

Thanks for the links. That gives me some insight to what might be happening. What has me stumped is the spread between the two gauges.. Thanks Michael. No codes and the truck running good has me wondering.

My Stewart Warner pillar gauge and I-Quad aren't reading boost the same. When I'm on the throttle, the pillar gauge says 35+ and Quad says 5-6. At cruise, mech says 4-5, Quad says 0 No doubt the mechanical gauge is right and Quad is wrong. I hardly use the Quad gauge on my phone so I don't know how long there's been a difference. No codes. Map sensor is clean - no soot. Is the Quad reading directly from the MAP sensor or thru the ECM? Can a MAP sensor be sick and not throw a code?

Groovy! Love watching it. Wish he was closer.

Mike, with the Fuel Boss I don't believe you get full pressure until the motor actually starts. So I felt kinda safe assuming that. However, I did try disconnecting the belt and had the same hot start problem. 3 times now, I've tried the garden hose cool down trick and the truck starts immediately. The last thing I want to do is pull the pump and I feel like I've tried everything. Plus I never had a hot start problem with the old pump.

Not a problem at all on Blue Chip. That was strange but I probably should have just kept that to my self now that I think about it. I apologize if that came across as a negative. DAP has always been great to work with. They have always taken care of any problems quickly and professionally. I'll always go there first.

I thought about that but in the same conversation they looked up my order and account to confirm my purchase and date. Not a big deal on sending me to Blue Chip. It was great jawing with them. I just thought it was odd.

Update: I'm back to working on the hot start issue after being preoccupied with stuff. Went back thru the Blue Chip diagnostics. Cold start - starts in a split second. Hot start - spin, spin, finally starts. Fuel Boss with low pressure at startup but builds to 20 quickly - same results. So I got out the garden hose and cooled down the VP after I got the motor hot. It started instantly. To make sure the wasn't a fluke I repeated the process later that day. Same results. Hot starts quickly with the garden hose. I contacted DAP about warranty on the 2 month old pump. I did get the one with new electronics. They looked up the order, said it sounded like a warranty issue and told me to call Blue Chip. Said that they would help with warranty quicker than DAP. OK??? So I call Blue Chip. Very helpful people but they ask why I called them? The person I spoke with said he hadn't heard of Diesel Auto Power. So I call DAP back. Got a different person. They said their warranty people will call Monday. We'll see how this goes.

I've been running the DDRP alone with the Fuel Boss on the sideline with the belt and fuel lines disconnected for test purposes. I'll disconnect the power to the DDRP when I get home, motor hot, and try starting it after a few minutes. Maybe that will tell me something. With my old VP (before it crapped out), the Fuel Boss never caused a problem with 20 lbs pressure at start up.

Installed a new VP44 from DAP. Truck starts lightning quick as it should when cold. I can let the truck sit for 5 days, nose uphill, starts in about half a revolution as it always has. So no siphon or fuel leaks. However when the motor's warm, not so much. Takes 3-5 seconds but does start every time . But let it set for several hours, cooler engine, no problem. Starting pressure with my Fuel Boss is 20 lbs. Out of curiosity, I put my DDRP back on which also runs around 20 lbs starting pressure. Same hot start problem with either. Is 20 lbs too much? No codes with a good scanner. Wait to start light normal. Didn't have this particular problem before the old pump died. I'm leaning towards a faulty new VP. Any suggestions?

Great write-up Ocean! You did a fantastic job. Much appreciated!

Yes, Pressure appears normal.

Thanks Hag. I'm not seeing anything odd with the sensors so I feel pretty good about those. I'm trying to understand the dynamics of why my truck will start immediately, run for a second or two, then die like the fuel was shut off. Just seems odd for a no fuel to injectors situation. When I had an air leak, you would crank for 7 sec then start. This feels very different. I'm going to do the clear fuel line trick when it warms up this weekend.

Thanks guys, I don't run an electric pump with the Fuel Boss so bumping the starter doesn't help. But the stand alone mechanical pump has been fine for several months. I tried the block heater with no difference. However my garage stays about 48-50 degrees. My VP may be original. I bought the truck with 140k so I don't know the history before that (however the old man I bought it from said it was original). But I've always suspected a short VP life after finding rust in the banjo connections on the pump when I first bought it. Truck must have set for while. The "start then die 3 times" thing has got me kinda puzzled. When I had the suction side leak, you would have to crank for 5 or 10 sec and then it would start. Very different from what I'm experiencing now. I'm going to do the clear fuel line trick and see how that goes

Appreciate the advice! I've read the Blue Chip guide several times and I've done most of the checks. Several months ago I had a siphon/hard start problem from inj. and crossover tube O-rings, but this acts differently.

Grids have been disconnected. Truck is garaged so cold temp isn't an issue. WTS light operates normal. AC noise in check with new diodes a year ago.

Thanks Dave, I've read their page several times. Other than making sure the tank connections are healthy, maybe doing the clear fuel line between the filter and VP would help give insight. The truck has 166k on it, VP is original. I've wondered if the VP has an internal air leak?

I have a suspicion I may have VP problems. But no codes with a good scanner. I know these pumps can be tricky. Truck starts immediately and quits after a second. Try and start 2nd time - does the same thing. 3rd try, finally starts and stay started but runs rough for a 7 seconds then clears up, runs fine. Drivability is normal . Point nose down hill - no improvement. I installed a Fuel Boss about 500mi ago and it has been great. Cleaned pressure valve in pressure line (included w/Fuel Boss plumbing). New crossover tube O-rings and injectors 1500mi ago. New return T O-rings, new banjo washers. Triple checked pressure and return line for leaks. The only thing I haven't done is lift the bed, check draw straw V and connections at the tank. I have several tunes downloaded for the Quad. There are some that the Quad doesn't like (surging, VP gets noisy then quiet). I thought that was kinda strange that the truck didn't like those. However some tunes work fine. Anyway, this is my dilemma. Anyone have the same experiences?

I never considered Summit for a pulley. Good find! Would be nice to have, just in case.

What's the procedure ? I'm guessing just pull the bottom pulley and pump mounting bolts. Then tilt the pump down to get the drill chuck on the shaft? Do you need a 3/8" or 1/2" drill? Spin clockwise? Or do they make a pulley you can put on a drill and use the belt to prime?

Roger that!