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Looks the same as Mike's only with the threads all corroded down so they smaller. Did you try vise-grips?

So there are 2 ways to adjust the door as far as I can tell and neither of them seem to "adjust" because of this one non-adjustable bolt. Here are pics of the mounts on the door and the cowl and the circled bolt is set, it can't be adjusted as far as I can tell. I thought maybe the slots would pivot around that bolt or something but they are slotted to where they go towards or away from that red circled non adjustable bolt, so it can't move around in the slots because of that. So how are you supposed to adjust them?

If you can get a pic of it, maybe someone will be able to recognize what your dealing with and be able to help you.

It isn't just the regular 1/2 or 7/16" nut? I can't imagine it being that small. If it is the big bolt that tightens the terminal then an 1/8" nut sounds pretty unreal for that application. The threads for the bolt come out pretty far, maybe they look like a nut since they are corroded? Maybe it uses a fancy terminal that I am not thinking of.

Looks like pierce attitude m/t? Never heard of it so maybe I am reading it wrong off the tire. --- Update to the previous post... Dang I was close. http://www.fiercetires.com/tires/attitude-mt/

Even with 4.10's you should be able to pull off 20. Not at 70mph, but at 55 you should be able to no problem. Wear parts and adjustment things that can decline mileage are things like [*]Air Filter [*]Fuel Filter [*]Clogged Exhaust [*]Front end alignment [*]Dirty Injectors There are other issues pertaining to the drivelin, have you jacked it up and spun the wheels and driveshafts to see how good they turn?

I read a little more and here is part of that wikipedia link that explains it a little. I think Flman was on the northern part.During the French and Indian War in the 1750s, the northern end of the valley became the bulwark of the British defense against French invasion from Canada via Lake Champlain.The valley became one of the major regions of conflict during the American Revolution. Part of the early strategy of the British was to sever the colonies in two by maintaining control of the river.In the early 19th century, popularized by the stories of Washington Irving, the Hudson Valley gained a reputation as a somewhat gothic region inhabited by the remnants of the early days of the Dutch colonization of New York (see, e.g., The Legend of Sleepy Hollow).Following the building of the Erie Canal, the area became an important industrial center. The canal opened the Hudson Valley and New York City to commerce with the Midwest and Great Lakes regions. However, in the mid 20th century, many of the industrial towns went into decline. The Catskills seen from across the river.The Hudson Valley also was the location of the estates of many wealthy New York industrialists, such as John D. Rockefeller and Frederick William Vanderbilt, and of old-moneyed tycoons such as Franklin Roosevelt, who was a descendant of one of the early Dutch families in the region.The area is associated with the Hudson River School, a group of American Romantic painters who worked from about 1830 to 1870.

Do you guys own stock in sun shades? Those things look like you will never get stuck again. If it were me I would be switching between those and the old ones depending on if I planned on going off road or not. Hmmm guess you don't have 2 sets of wheels lol. O well, they look like they will be a lot of fun in the snow

Alright I had to go to town to top off and let you all see what I get. The numbers are 8.807 Gallons for 181.9 miles. That equates to 20.654 mpg. You guys think that is good? Well let me throw in that 1/4 was city driving, 1/4 was me beating the absolute crap out of it (for fuel pressure testing purposes). So how do I get it? Well the last 1/2 was driving to the city on a 55mph highway. I do 55mph the whole way, feathering it up hills and letting it coast up to 60 down them. I rarely get over 65, even on the 4 lane I drive 60. In the city, don't slam on the brakes, just let it coast to the light. When it turns green, don't floor it, take it easy. Do the things Dorkweed and Guesswho said too. One rule Mike used to say was "keep it under 5psi and 600F EGT and you will see 20mpg" and this rule really is the best way to ensure that you do get 20+. Alright now I told Mike a while back I had never seen under 21mpg unloaded and this is no exception. I changed the fuel filter and cleaned out the prefilter and that probably totaled a quart according to the gas can I put it in, I also had to tap the banjo bolt for the injection pump for my fuel pressure gauge which drained the injection pump, that was probably another half quart but I will ignore that fuel for **** and grins. I dumped all that fuel into the tractor, not back into my truck. I went to the exact same pump also.. So 8.807-0.25 (the quart) means I actually only burned off 8.557 gallons. Which equates to 21.257 mpg. So my 21mpg record still stands.

Well that is just too neat. Thanks for linking us!

Kinda curious here, what does his VP44 history look like? And are those wheels off a 3rd gen? I can't believe how good they look.

I think your right. Those look the same as my injector hold down nut.

It's just a T, a splitter.. So blowby tube goes in one port, and your manometer hose comes out another. That leaves the 3rd port which you just have a .221" hole in. So if you put a plug in that port and drilled a .221" hole in the plug, that is how it would be.

It takes 4 quarts of the liquid gold.

Yep. You just get a long clear hose then make a "U" out of it, try and make it as straight as possible so it's not a big arced U. But the remaining blowby that is left (that wasn't able to go out the .221" hole) will push the water a certain distance up the tube. Measure how far it went and then do all the math stuff. I would post my video if it wasn't wrong lol. But the pics I made that John linked you to is how you do it.

It just seems weird that it doesn't have power then something (wish I knew what) happens and the truck regains consciousness. It's like the lift pump turns off for a while then comes back on. I guess this is all the same story for every vp44 failure, but it still seems ironic.

I was gonna say, sounds exactly like the 24V tube issues they all have Yeah it should just mist everything behind that tube, and hardly at that. You seem to have a mist of oil in the front of the engine. I wonder if that thing that screws into the front of the injection pump on the timing cover is loose. It just seems like something is loose that is causing the same effect that the blow by tube on 24v's do. So that means there must be something letting crankcase pressure out. I doubt the timing cover bolts are that loose, but you never know. I would be looking at everything up there to see if it is all tight. I think I read something about the vacuum pump messing up and pressurizing the crankcase, which if it had loose bolts, would cause it. Just check everything over tomorrow and let us know what you find. I will stare at mine tomorrow and see if I find any other areas to check.

350-400HP will be fine. Just get a good clutch that can hold it and you won't have any issues. If you go over that power or do drag racing and crap like that, thats when you need all the bullet stuff. Right now I am between that same 350-400 (hopefully) and all I have done is get a better clutch (13" one) and it has been fine. Just don't pop the clutch or beat it like all these drag racers do and it will last a long time. Mike has the same trans and he has dyno'd at 383HP I think it was and he too has only upgraded the clutch. The only thing I would do is change the oil in it (if you don't know when it was last changed) and maybe check the 5th gear nut out. Oh and my truck has 330k on the original NV4500 build and is fine.

The vent (blow by tube) is fine on 12v's. The 24v guys actually move theirs to where ours is. It is inevitable to not have oil condensate in the tube. There might be a few ways but really it is normal and you shouldn't worry about it. The only thing that strikes me as a little odd is the oil on the fan. I suppose if you got just the right leak on that timing cover dripping into it, it could do it. Having it steam cleaned like you say would be a great idea. Sometimes oil leaks from a completely different spot but driving it makes it seem like it's from somewhere else. There is nothing around there that I can think of so I am just going to have to say it is picking up oil from one of the leaks around the timing case. Mine leaks and my fan never caught wind of it so that is why I am still wondering about it. Your blowby tube is in the back of the engine right? Nobody messed with it and put it in front of the injection pump gear?

Yeah theres not too many. Mike (guy who owns the site and made all this possible) has a 24V so he spent a lot of time getting the guys with trucks he was very familiar with. Nevertheless, I have been posting a bunch of articles on 12v's just in case. Yeah get some pics!

If I had a cover for it I would have just duck taped the crack Very nice job on fixing it! I think everyone was waiting for the pics before they said anything. Next time you start a post and edit in pictures later, just respond to the thread , even if it is your own post your responding to. That way it will bump your thread back up to the top of the list and people will look at it again, seeing the pics and responding.

Forgot about having to get on the loader If it's not one thing it's another isn't it If I were you I would end up building a big ramp into the cab, probably end up breaking on me halfway up it :banghead:. At least you got to ride in that train! That would be an awesome experience. Did you get to go in the engine part of it and look at everything? Your video is probably the most I have seen of what is inside the cab of a steamer.. Tell Sheila she did a great job on video editing!

Oh good a 12 valver! Nice to have you here! Ask any question you have, people here won't leave a thread at 0 responses for over maybe 5 hours, thats the best thing about this site.

I have never used an elbow so I don't know how it compares. I would just get an elbow as thats what the rest of the world has done lol. Mine is reallly overengineered and the parts are hard to find and I really don't know how much better/worse it is compared to an elbow, so I would stick with an elbow, they are cheap and simple. The difference with mine is that is keeps the wastegate shut until it hits 35, whereas if you set an elbow at 35, it would slowly be opening the wastegate up until that point. There is a tiny hole in the elbow and you adjust how much flows through that hole. So if you have your wastegate tube and lets say I am building 30psi, outflowing the wastegate of course, you can put a tiny hole in the wastegate line (with the elbow) and that will drop the pressure in the line after that point, so then the wastegate might only see 15psi or something depending on the amount of flow you have going through that tiny hole. When you hit 35psi, the wastegate might see 20psi, it will open, and that is how the elbow limits it, by making it see lower boost. Mine stays completely shut until 35 and at that point the wastegate slams open and drops me to the 30psi I saw before (outflowing the wastegate). So what I try to do is stay under 35psi, then I know I am getting all the flow since the wastegate hasn't opened yet. I also rigged up a light from a brake light switch (the one for your brake pedal) so I can see when the wastegate actually opens. Ah, that makes sense. I knew it speeded up anytime you blocked it off. I took one of my 80mm computer fans and I can put something over the side that it sucks air in and the weird thing is I can put something on the other side and it has a vacuum on both blocking plates. Maybe it is trying to pull in air but cant so it creates some sort of vacuum? Not sure what the deal is. The overspeeding thing makes perfect sense. From how I understand it, the dirty air filter will cause overspeeding but a muffler will slow the turbo down.

The timing case cover bolts like to loosen up and then it all leaks, oil gets all over the front. The vent tube I think you are referring to is the blow by tube on the drivers side of the engine? That is for crankcase pressure and will usually condensate some oil on it so that is normal. The vacuum pumps get leaks in them too. You've probably listed the top things that will start leaking on these things so I bet it probably is them. The vacuum seal I have not done so I don't know how hard it is, to get the timing case all sealed up again you have to take the fan and damper off so the timing cover can be taken off. The crankshaft seal I think goes in from the back.