ISX

Wasn't thinking there, but yeah the mm3 rate is the same on mine and his if I remember right, 103 mm3/stroke. Can't remember if his was cut off, he didn't have a pic of his full tag. Dang it, I had a PM from him with it in it but I must have canned it. How did you figure the power thing?Actually, a REALLY neat test would be to test both of our trucks fuel rates at 600 or 700TQ since I should be putting out at least 800. Now THAT would be a neat test! Get mikes 24V in there too!

Yeah I've never understood how it can't have flow, I mean the pump would have to seize up to not have any flow. So I am just wondering where it all goes on the VP44 and why heat is an issue..All engines have mm3 per stroke for some reason, I have seen Mike's and even mine is mm3.

I just want to see how much the 24V VP flows. Nobody seems to know or have any proof or anything, just pressures that get thrown around, then you get this internal regulator stuff.. Nobody has ever pulled the return line off and watched. Be even neater if you could vary your fuel pumps output to see what happens as it goes from 10-20psi. Would it not flow and then open up to a lot of flow at 14psi? Or would it wait until this 17psi internal regulator thing? I haven't seen any proof like I just showed on mine. I just hear all these numbers that keep turning out to be inaccurate or just one page of the story.. I think I will buy a 24V and start testing

Exactly, if ulsd can't keep the vp happy, which runs at half the engine speed, then how would it keep the turbo happy for any length of time.

I think I will get something for mine now. I am overdo for an oil change but throwing in whatever stuff that says "go 50 miles then drain" might work good. I can't wait for amsoil to ship it just need to go to wally world and see what they got. Sure looks like it worked good on yours! :thumbup2:I had a guy try and tell me he cleans his out by draining the oil, dumping diesel fuel in the crankcase, running it for a minute, then draining that. I can only imagine how his bearings on the turbo and everything were

Which means it's #22 Camshaft Position Sensor.

The thing I am really wondering is how does the VP heat up at all with that much return flow? I am just assuming it is the same but I guess you don't have that kind of flow. If it is under 14psi, do you have any return at all other than the tiny amount from the injectors? I mean it only took a minute for it to completely mix that little bottle of 2 stroke with the quart of fuel in the filter canister..

1997 Dodge Ram 2500 12V Cummins Turbo Diesel P7100 13.5* Timing No AFC No Plate 5" Exhaust with Semi Muffler (see through) Exiting in Front of Back Tire Custom Boost Regulator (35PSI) BHAF [*]5 Batteries (5240 CA) [*]Grid Heater Relay On/Off Switch [*]Custom Center Console [*]Front Air Dam [*]Added (Floor Mounted): Boost--Pyrometer--Water Temperature [*]Always On-Power Windows (Jumper Mod) [*]Brush Guard [*]Aluminum Diamond Plate Toolbox [*]Trailer Brake Controller [*]Power/Remote Door Locks [*]Power Seats [*]Power Mirrors [*]Auto Dimming Rear View [*]Overhead Outdoor Temperature [*]245/75/16 [*]Hankook Dynapro Tires (Back 2) [*]Michelin LTX M/S (Front 2) [*]Michelin LTX A/T (Spare) [*]Aluminum Wheels [*]21MPG---70MPH [*]23MPG---65MPH [*]25MPG---60MPH [*]27MPG---55MPH Guesstimated Power [*]350HP/850TQ Parts I have replaced [*]Thermostat-Due to fluctution, finally figured out it was normal. [*]Clutch-Stock wouldn't hold, South Bend held the power for a while, blew up and now I got Valair [*]Clutch Hydraulics-Replaced to fix initial clutch issue, wasn't the issue but now it is new! [*]U-Joints-Old ones were grinding and popping, bearings disintegrated [*]Rear Wheel Bearing Seal-Leaking on right side, got a seal for when left decides to [*]Seal on Tailshaft of Trans-Have an issue with them spinning with the driveshaft and shearing from the steel base of the seal, packed with grease so driveshaft wouldn't grab it, so far so good. [*]Heater Core-Corroded Alright so I need to take a decent pic of my truck Give me time! http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/IMG_0483.JPG Taken out, not cleaned up yet. It will come back out and be painted one of these days. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Engine%20Pull/IMG_0425.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Engine%20Pull/IMG_0420.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Engine%20Pull/IMG_0430.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1492.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/Other/IMG_1493.JPG [*] [*] [*] [*] [*] [*] [*]335,000 Miles [*]NV4500 [*]Valair 400HP/900TQ 13" Clutch [*]1.25" Input Shaft [*]HD Pressure Plate [*]13" Flywheel [*]2WD---Dana 80---3.54

There are several neat parts to this vid and I kept every part short and sweet so keep watching it if you hit a second thats boring I ran the initial 2 stroke test by dumping the fuel filter and priming it straight off the tank of 128:1, so there would be no leftover fuel messing up the ratio. The engine was completely warmed up on all tests. So first off we have the comparison in sound between regular #2, 2 stroke@128:1, and 2 stroke@2:1. All of these test were right at 1000RPM with the camera in the same spot. Then we have videos showing return line rates and how it works. Then we have a vid of me showing how I got 2:1. Pint of 2 stroke and quart of 128:1 that is in the fuel filter should mean around 2:1.. So, I think there is a little difference between #2 and 2 stroke. I know you VP guys say you can hear the 2 stroke hit so I would like to hear that sometime. The fuel lines did not get very warm at all, I thought they would but since they don't really cool the injection pump like it does on the VP44 (oil does on my p7100), it makes a little more sense. I am surprised that you hear 0 difference between 128:1 and 2:1, just goes to show that 128 is plenty.

Really good question actually! I am not sure but lets think of all the places the oil could be at any moment in time. 1. It is shooting through oil jets all over the bottom of the pistons 2. It is shooting into oil passages along the crankshaft 3. It is getting up into the valve covers 4. It is feeding the turbo 5. It is in the oil filter 6. It is in the oil cooler 7. It is in all the oil passages that transfer oil to everything 8. It is in the gears of the timing case 9. It is in the injection pump, well, p7100 anyways 10. Can't think of anything else. I am going to say roughly half the oil gets used at any given time. I will throw this in there. My ford wouldn't pick up any oil after about half the capacity was gone.. I know this because it leaked half of it out every day Turn in the driveway and watch the oil pressure go to 0. But, it is a clue, so I am going to put all bets on half.

That was my guess but a quart is, well a quart! I don't really see how it would steal an entire quart in that thing. Maybe it does though

Alright I got some more questions. What is the micron rating on them? Why do you have to add a quart every time you change them?

I am thinking it is a fancy tool that tells you a few things that error codes will tell you. I see it as just a deprived code reader, as it doesn't look to have many features. Could be way off but thats how I see it

Letting things sit is actually very hard on them. Have you ever looked at a piece of steel that has been out in the rain for a while? Rust forms all over it and it just becomes worthless. Your engine is no different. The longer you let it sit without starting it every now and then, the more oil will end up at the bottom of the engine instead of where it should be, so now you have surfaces inside the engine exposed to whatever humidity can throw at it. Axle, seals, everything, it's no different. Everything needs to be ran at least a few times a year to keep everything happy.

Ah, now I got it. Thanks again!

Thanks W&F! I wasn't sure with a lot of it, main reason I keep making these component threads So I changed expansion valve to orifice tube, but do I need to change all the expanding stuff too? I am starting to think it works by having an orifice to limit flow, this limit makes the condenser build very high pressure, the orifice lets the refrigerant out slowly but also goes from a small hole at high pressure to a large area resulting in low pressure and very cold temperatures. Is that correct? I was wondering why the expansion valve pics didn't look like anything on mine, but I knew it was hot and went cold at that orifice tube thing, so now I know why!

Now that is neat! Good work Guesswho. I might have to get a calculator going factoring humidity in, gives you what pressure is needed high and low to get the desired temp. Sounds like it would take some work but is interesting so I might have to figure out how to do it. Is that chart for R134?

I can't afford anything so I never look at the banners. When I do it just looks like 24V stuff. I do click on jlweldings ad all the time and go through every pic on his site. I used to work in at a steel shop and the stuff he does is so above and beyond. If I could afford it I would have had him make my center console Might be able to afford it in a few months though I was up til midnight going through those 2 forums. Sooo much interesting stuff on the tractor forum and I like how there are several topics for everything at midwestdiesel. I always thought it looked like a complete cluster____ on CF, but Tom has it organized perfect with just the right amount of topics, not completely overdoing it like other forums having a different section for every truck color seem to do. The 3 point doesn't work on my brothers oliver, might have to test out the tractor forum. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Matt's%20Other%20Stuff/IMG_0688.JPG

I left that out since I was more explaining how it worked rather than vent temp, but I will throw that on there too. Humidity part will just have to be known. I think the ambient chart is plenty good. I just wanted to get the components labeled for everyone mainly.

Here are all of the components of the 2nd Gen A/C system, and what they all do. First is the compressor. The refrigerant is compressed making it even hotter, it becomes a high pressure high temperature vapor. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/AC/IMG_1471.JPG After turning into a high pressure high temperature vapor, the refrigerant goes through the condenser. The condenser has ambient air running through it which cools off the superheated refrigerant, so much so that the refrigerant turns back into a liquid. Nevertheless, the refrigerant is still pretty hot and remains at high pressure. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/AC/Condenser.jpg Now we make the refrigerant cold. To do this, it goes through an orifice tube. The orifice tube (not to be confused with an expansion chamber) has an orifice that holds back the pressure in the condenser and also allows the pressure to build, if there wasn't a restriction from the orifice, the condenser would quickly lose all of its high pressure and wouldn't do it's job. The orifice tube allows a metered amount of flow to go through it, and then expands into the hose that goes to the accumulator, becoming very cold. One side will be hot, the other will be cold. It will also now be low pressure. This can be seen with an air compressor when you blow air out of a hose. The air expands instantly and is cooled, that is why the air feels so cold coming out of that air hose. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/AC/Expansion%20Valve.jpg It then proceeds into the Accumulator or Dryer. This stores the freon and also has things in it to help dry out the freon to prevent any moisture from building up. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Under%20Hood/AC/IMG_1470.JPG The last step is the Evaporator. This is inside the cab and air is blown through it, giving you cold air out of your vents. Technically speaking, it is absorbing heat into the refrigerant which then turns the liquid refrigerant back into a low pressure gas as it warms. They get stuff built up in them, as mine has. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Dash%20and%20Vacuum/IMG_1192.JPG So now that the refrigerant is a low pressure hot gas, it is sent back to the compressor to compress it into a high pressure, very hot, gas that has much more heat to be released in the condenser. If it was a low pressure gas, there wouldn't be enough volume through the condenser to keep you cool, it would also not be hot enough to release enough heat to keep you cool. So you compress it to make it really hot, the condenser has a ton of heat it easily expels, and the refrigerant expands back into a low pressure fluid that is very cold, and you have an efficient a/c system. Ambient temp influence the pressures of the high and low side. Here are 2nd Gen Pressures, taken from http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/27-hvac-heating-ventalation-and-air-conditioning/58-recharging-air-conditioning-with-r134a-freon Vent temps..

Can't believe I haven't been on either of those forums. Now I got another place to go besides this one Very very nice sites you guys! I am gonna be up all night now, just found the tractor pictures section lol

I'll just delete this thread Sounds like you are having fun! My teacher just got rid of his brand new camaro to go to a RAV4 that he can afford, he hasn't been himself ever since

Anyone ever used that for fuel?

Sweet Jesus! Great idea on the evaporator drain Smokeythedodge

The only issue I see with that, is that pressure builds heat. Heat kills the VP44. If it were 30psi with regulator, might not be too bad, but even that sounds like it would build a lot of heat, 90 would definitely get the fuel cooking.