ISX

Yes the HX35 was on all 2nd gens except for 1994 trucks (H1C, same as HX35 as far as I can tell) and 24v auto's had a HY35 which has a smaller exhaust housing. You will probably be fine. It does take some good mods to get it over 35, I think anyways. You forced me to go out and clamp the wastegate and personally see. I get such wild readings on max boost with the wastegate hooked up, haven't figured out why but after I advanced my timing I could hit 34. Now I was only able to hit about 29. Probably cheap fuel and some stuff on the injectors since I haven't gone over 10psi in months lol. Anyways, I am making a video showing it. I was able to hit 35psi at 3/4 throttle, proving that it builds boost quicker because of the wastegate not hogging some air, but also goes over 35 easy. That's a little too close for comfort for me so I unclamped it once I got back. I will get the vid up whenever it decides to get done uploading ---------- Post added at 06:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:53 PM ---------- Here we go. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBXl82G_Ebo

What do you do, wait until you see me read someones post and watch me run out to my truck with the camera? The biggest thing with other forums is they never post pics. Drives me nuts because I might not even know what I am looking at. Oh, PERFECT EXAMPLE!, those damn steering components! I've fought what they were talking about for years with that. I did take my dash out partly to get pics of everything and check that off as one of the things I had done to my truck. There was nothing wrong with anything in it I got the vacuum working better and wanted to make sure the heater core and A/C thing wasn't clogged up so I could get max flow. Didn't know the heater core was bad, so took care of that. Everything flows good now

That's a check valve, you can get it from any auto parts store. I don't have much trust in the vacuum pump or anything so I put that in there to keep any vacuum that goes into the HVAC from going back out. Works so good I can put it on head vents and come back a few days later and turn the key on (not starting engine), turn the blower motor on, and it will still be on the head vents. Neatest thing I ever bought for the truck Think it was only a couple bucks.

Benefits: Only limit on boost now is your right foot. A stock truck might be able to push 25psi, turned up a bit you can probably hit 40psi. From the time the wastegate *should* open, until the time you go over 35psi, you will be building more boost and have more power/lower EGT's. I have my wastegate still connected and top out at almost 35psi, but anything over the 23psi mark, I am building boost against the wastegate, meaning I am making so much power that I am able to outflow the wastegate and continue up to 35psi. If I plugged the wastegate, I could probably hit 40-45psi. So from the last paragraph, a plugged wastegate will get to 35psi quicker since it doesn't have to outflow the wastegate to do it, however, you will also go over 35psi too, which isn't desirable. Drawbacks: HX35 is only good to 35psi, past that and it goes out of it's map and builds heat (creating high EGT's), also will reduce it's longevity. Potential to blow head gasket if the engine is capable of building some big boost numbers. Unless you have some way to limit the boost, it is not a good idea to do it. If you have your chip or something all the way up and are pulling a trailer up the side of a mountain and floor it, you will build a ton of boost and run a real risk of blowing the turbo or head gasket.

Those things would be great mudding around! I would rather have steel wheels anyways. Aluminum upkeep is just insane. I spent 2 hours just going from the first pic to the second, yes that was just ONE damn wheel http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/IMG_0913.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/IMG_0912.JPG

ThanksWish I could get more but it is such a PITA to find things to factor in. I got everything I can think of, now it's just down to stumbling on things from google. I might have to find an engine engineering forum or something and post the excel thing and ask what else I could factor in. Hmm, I might just do that today.

That is what I thought but I went out and held mine on while I started the truck and my little green light didn't come on until I let off on the button. Does yours come on just holding the button down? I took my module out of the steering wheel once and it is very simple. Not sure yours is just as simple but I think it would be a simple fix if it was the button messing up. Make sure you add a friction modifier additive to the axle oil every time you change it or the limited slip will stop working and will become a locker. Then you end up with my screwed up axle, though works kinda nice in winter since I can have half the truck in the ditch and snow and the other half on pavement and not know the difference Not good for the axle though!

You might send off a sample to have it analyzed then. When in doubt, find out! ---------- Post added at 09:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:48 PM ---------- Alright I am finding numerous threads on green tint to oil. All are using rotella, all are vp44 trucks.. I say it's something to do with rotella and the 2nd gen 24v's. I been going through all of them and nobody is ever analyzing it so I can't tell you exactly what's doing it. Everyone on all the threads say it is normal or ignore it altogether. I don't think there is reason to worry. Sounds like your on top of everything, when coolant or oil starts changing, then I would worry.

I think the green you saw was normal. It sounds like the oil was just a greenish color which it always seems to turn greenish before coalish. I agree with W&F, different engines, different oil coaling rates. I could change the oil in my ford and drive it a mile and it would look like the oil I just drained.

Tubing size won't matter, pressure will be the same regardless. Not sure on exactly how you make the "U". I will start searching. ---------- Post added at 06:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:19 PM ---------- Alright here is what I was able to come up with. Had to draw a pic for this. You try to keep the U part as vertical as possible without kinking the tube seeing as how that's how it measures. The less vertical it is, the more off your measurements will be because it is easier to push water out of a hose that is on an angle, or horizontal for that matter. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Modified%20Pics/Manometer.jpg Fine I will add a more appropriate picture!

Not sure how relevant this is to 24V's, but here is my 12V's. In the pic with words it shows the line coming in from the firewall (which is the black one), then ending up at that connector as I wrote on the pic. If you took your foot off the pedal and were to try and kick the air that blows on your foot from the drivers side, you will kick the connector.. If the connector is fine, then all that leaves is the actuators, you can see them in the pic (the colored vacuum lines). That's all there is to it. Getting at the colored lines requires removing dash.. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Modified%20Pics/IMG_1186.jpg http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Dash%20and%20Vacuum/IMG_1181.JPG

On mine there is a 1/8" NPT plug on the top of the oil filter mount, probably be the easier place to do a test gauge. As for how much blow-by, this was on a thread a while back: You need a blowby tool. The Cummins blowby orifice tool is simply a tee with one .221" (15/64-in) outlet. Connect one end of the tee to the end of the blowby tube. Put a manometer on last tee outlet. That is your blowby tool. They sell them at the Cummins, but I have made my own plenty of times, less than $10. A simple manometer can be made by looping into a 'U' 6 feet of clear tubing with water in it half way. Measure how high the water level rises with a tape measure, multiply it by 2, convert it to LPMs. Rough conversion is 1"= 27 lpm, add 3 lpm for each one inch (1/2'' of rise in the tube) of water The reason for multiplying by 2 is that inches of water equals the water rise in the open end of the tube plus the inches the water is pushed down on the engine side of the water tube. For simplicity my numbers below are the measurement of rise only. Cummins new 5.9 engine numbers are: 63 liters per minute(2.5" water rise) @ 2200rpm, 76 L/Min (3.5" rise) @ 2500rpm 85 L/Min (4.5" rise) @ 2800rpm. Worn engine that needs rebuilding are roughly double i.e. 126 L/Min(10.5"rise) @ 2200rpm 152 L/Min(14.5"rise) @ 2500rpm 170 L/Min(17"rise) @ 2800 rpm Beside indicating a compression problem the valves could also be out of adjustment. Another way (mine), same idea, is to block the blowby tube with a 1/2'' pipe nipple with a cap that has a 15/64 hole drilled in it. Use 3/8'' id looped clear tubing with water in it slipped over the oil dipstick tube. Other tubing end remains open. Use a sharp tipped felt marker to mark the water level with the engine off, have a helper start an already warmed up engine and run the rpms up to 2.2, 2.5 & 2.8k rpms. Mark each water level with the pen, measure the distance from engine off mark then multiply each by 2. This is all very simple to do, just hard to explain with words.

Probably looks like mine did. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97//Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Interior/Dash%20and%20Vacuum/IMG_1192.JPG

It is a coolant temp fooler. Cons the ECM and gauge into thinking that the engine is still cold.

Sounds about right. Startup pressure is always higher since the oil is colder and thicker, there is more resistance to push it through the engine so the pressure builds.. On winter days you might see up to 100psi initially. After it is warmed up it should be about 40-60psi. A gunked up oil cooler or dirty oil filter can keep the pressure in the higher bit of the range and a perfectly clean system will be lower.

Got some more info. The lower the ratio between surface area and volume of the cylinder, the more efficient it will be because heat is lost through the cylinder walls, so by reducing the cylinder surface area, there is less area absorbing the heat, and of course, heat=power. As usual, cummins comes out on top.

Hell I'm almost willing to bet we have more woods than you do lol. Definitely more dense here. I went through the woods behind parent house a few hours ago with hands over my head because everything is so high everywhere. Will take the weed eater next time

That's exactly what I wanted to know! I knew there had to be some reason the guy was talking about it. Thanks for the help!

Well even though it's a cattle path, it was still marked with yellow little tabs everywhere showing it was a trail of the state park. It's all right along the lake and I really don't see meth heads putting it where they know people will be hiking all the time, not to mention it looked like park rangers came through and maintained it a little because of a few rail road tie steps in the middle of the hike. This was at Osage Beach.

I got bored yesterday and decided to head down to the lake. I never go anywhere or do anything so figured it was time to try something new lol. I usually just watch the boats at the edge of the water but somehow stumbled upon a trail. I followed this trail for hours, even sidetracking up a creek for half and hour then backing back up to where i left off on the trail and continuing on. It was raining pretty good the entire time so I was soaked. The trail was actually just a foot wide cattle path the whole time which actually kinda made it nice, I don't like trails that make it too easy, some challenging things are fun haha. So I had my phone with me and I see it didn't get half the pics saved for some reason, I was just taking them then slamming it shut and putting it back into my pocket before it got too wet. So here are some pics of what I saw. Then I almost turned back after it raining so much but decided against it and thank god I did because I came to the top of a cliff and the video is what I saw from the cliff. You can see in the pics how the water has cut through the rocks forming grooves, wonder how many years it took to do all that. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fup9bPi1qKI

I didn't think it was smart either and yeah the only time I could think of using it is the filling stations. The only reason I am asking is based on what this guy says, he might be completely full of crap. He seemed to think the liquid went out the tank and into some other thing on the engine and then it vaporized and the engine ran. I am beginning to think he was just guessing.

Yeah I knew how worked. The LP boils off into gas at anything over -44F and then you get your gas. I don't see why it wouldn't work though, putting the tank upside down so all the liquid comes out the regulator instead, then vaporizes in the lines or something. Not sure, don't see it as being impossible so just wondering on this thing.

That's what I have always thought, but some old man with an old machine is telling me they used the liquid in the old days. Not sure what to believe and he wasn't sure his machine used the gas or liquid since it has apparently never ran. Figured there must be a way to check.

I wouldn't even drive that thing Go get a ford or something, garage the dodge and just go out when your stressed and stare at it lol. Then you can sit there going *some day, I will break the beast out and remember everything we have been through* That's how it was with me when I had my ford and dodge both licensed all summer. I would go a few weeks driving the ford, get in the dodge and drive it and remember how much power it has. The 2 trucks were sooo different though. Eh, I'm rambling..Absolutely incredible paint job!

I believe the 60-90F part was for ambient air temp.. If the IAT is 30F higher then it would be 30F, and the grids are running just to keep the engine happy at that temp, so I am almost certain that, that part meant ambient air. They skipped around a lot on quickserve :ahhh:Not sure on the IAT shutdown temps being for our CTD. All that info was just in a huge service bulletin on cummins quickserve that was pretty general. I figure most of it pertains to all diesels. I did see some other things about 200F IAT limit or something if I looked hard enough.