ISX

Last trip to St. Joe State Park to ride dirt bikes, well and the time before that, trailer brakes have stopped working. In the morning some of the lights on the trailer weren't working but magically did when enough things were kicked. So I knew it was kind of a mess under my truck but I didn't even think it was *MY* truck that was the problem, but I stand corrected now. You can see in the first pic, or maybe you cant, but the bigger connector has 3 wires going into it, 1 cut off, then only 1 wire leaving it ( I know it looks like 3). There were about 5 other wires going to nothing, 5 more wires that had been physically split by corrosion (including trailer brake wire), and enough butt connectors to fill up the Ace Hardware bin. I cleaned it up and got rid of all the BS as you can see in the second pic. I got some light wires wrong like the running lights flash with the turn signal, but the trailer brakes work now! Have to make it all perfect tomorrow.

Well I heard 100F heat index for tomorrow so your welcome to come feel it for yourself Bring some marshmellows and graham crackers and we will let the sun cook them into smores

Exactly the reason I put mine on the floor in front of the shift lever! It's not hard to see it and you never have to look at it once you know when your truck is going to be getting hot. I constantly fight that pillar, it was the one relief of getting back in my ford with it's tooth pick one.

Stop your whining! It's hotter than hell here so you move here and I'll move there, you can leave MoparMom behind and make sure all the 4 wheelers are gassed up.

I noticed it does that if you wait longer than 15 min to do something on the site and haven't hit the check box that logs you in automatically. After 15 min the server marks you as inactive, so you basically just logged out. So to fix it, you can either hit the box that remembers you when you log in so that it automatically logs you in anytime you do anything, or you will just have to highlight and copy your reply before you submit it so that if it has logged you out, you can simply log back in and paste the reply. Sorry you had to find out the hard way

Just dug this up from cummins about the temp sensor in the VP44. P0181--Temperature sensor's reading correct (greater than -45°C [-49°F] and less than 130°C [266°F]). When a defect occurs within the VP44 controller temperature sensing circuit, the controller defaults to a temperature value of 75°C [167°F]. If this is the temperature's reading indicated on the monitor screen and this reading does not vary with changes in the coolant temperature, then the VP44 is most likely malfunctioning. The circuit for this fault code is contained within the Bosch® fuel pump control module.P0168--This fault code is typically set when the VP44 fuel pump controller communicates to the engine ECM that the fuel temperature measured in the fuel inlet to the pump (VP44 temperature sensor) exceeds the allowable threshold value (93°C [199°F]).So I guess there is an ECM threshold along with internal VP44 threshold.

Around what time? At least it's almost fixed and should hold the power for once. Keep us updated

The molding is standard. I would definitely get some rocker panel covers like Mike did, then road salt or tar or anything else, doesn't get plastered to the rockers and ruin them. Like on mine, behind the back tire on the rocker portion, the paint has spots in it that show the undercoat and I have spots of tar.

Man I thought I had it this time. Took shifter covers off and held camera right next to it and the grinding was deafening, all you hear on cam is the engine. On a side note, there was a cinderblock in the parking lot, it sounded a lot better than my trans

I got the stuff in the pic, and yes it's not a vib, it sounds like a cinderblock being drug across a cement slab.Eh, let me go see if I can somehow get it on cam. Cam blocks out that sound for some reason.

Thanks for the heads up Nice to see your also working to keep them from doing it to other people also.

Yeah I just hit the edge of the nut. The punch will put a dimple in it and then you can start hitting it really hard. Just make sure you don't go to the edge too much or the dimple will start sliding and just cut a groove into the edge of the nut. It is reverse, so if you are standing in front of the truck looking down at the nut you would hit the right side of the nut, or clockwise loosens it, all from from front of truck perspective..The problem is just getting it to initially break loose. If you use a wrench you have to hammer it really hard and it will break loose. The punch does eat the nut a little so if you go this route make sure you are careful.

I had to take a punch to get mine loose. After being on for 300k it was on there pretty good. I don't think anyone has a narrow 36mm so it was all I could do. It worked though.If you have a wrench that will fit, you just hold the fan still by using something on the pulley bolts, like vise-grips.

First pic shows the tab you have to pull out, it is the one that should be bent up on the windshield side of the wiper. You have to pull that out. When you pull it out, you have to lift the wiper off the windshield to get the tab to pull all the way out. You can see in the second picture the circled part gets pulled out and holds the wiper arm up when pulled, this is why you have to hold the wiper arm up to pull the tab out, the wiper arm being down, is over that part so the tab cannot work loose. Make sure to mark the wiper placement on the windshield with something so you don't have to spend 10 min trying to get them back in original spot. Add a dab of grease and spread it all around the wiper splines so you get a thin film all around so the splines don't rust.

Hmm, so you didn't notice anything overly special about it over the golden stuff either. I'm having a lot of doubts with it. Hard to fork over more money to swap to redline but hard to listen to that grinding and think of how much longer whatever is grinding will last. Sure doesn't inspire confidence.

Hmm, I can't really say one way or another. I mean you could swap it but I am betting it would cost more than just buying the aftermarket lift pump and things for the 24V. But then again I don't want to be the one you come after if your VP44 still goes out and I ruined your chance of getting a 12V So you will just have to decide for yourself. I'm sure others will come on to convince you not to do it but I personally really don't see any loss either way except for a bit more money doing the swap. Just remember that you cannot chip a 12V, you cannot hook a scangauge up to a 12V, and well just everything you have to do manually. There are only like 15 codes for the entire engine to pick from when something goes wrong, so they are basically no help at all. When something goes wrong, you have to fix it using old school methods (there won't be a code telling you the lift pump or injection pump or anything went out). If your fine with that, I don't see how you could go wrong however you decide.

Sounds to be the easiest swap I've ever heard of. 1998 trucks all had exactly the same stuff. I am not sure about the overheard MPG readout and all that. I don't think they will show anything but outdoor temp after the swap, if you have the digital overhead at all. Get 12V ECM and I think everything else will bolt right up. As for it being a stupid idea, you would just have to say why your dumping the 24v.. Since your in california I take it, you don't see snow very often (or freezing temps) so I don't really see any downfalls either way you go. The only reason 12v's fall short in my book is in winter they don't have an idle control other than the set screw. So if it gets cold and the oil gets thick, the engine will turn 150 or so RPM less, and if it gets down to 0F it will just stall unless you step on the pedal a little. The difference is, you have an automatic. You can get away with turning the idle up to maybe 800RPM so you never have it drop too low to stall. Mine being a manual I sometimes don't want to be jarred when letting off in 1st. So I say your good either way. Why are you dumping the 24v though? I am no good at valuing things so wait for someone else on that deal..

Incredible document! With what you have dug up and what you and other people here know, there might just be a solution yet for the cooling issue. Moved this to 2nd gen 24V section. Keep up the awesome research! Hmm, look at the last post of the first page on this thread http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1656-VP44-Write-Up-Minimum-pressure-suggested... Ok, post #23 of that same thread on the second page has an even better pic of the flow. As far as I know, nobody has a pic of how the pump breaks down (the second pic of your document) so we're another step ahead in maybe being able to fix it ourselves. I know Mike is dieing to find out how.

So I decided to swap over to amsoil when I did the clutch and ever since then, the trans makes a really loud grinding noise in 4th from 1250-1500. The more load on it the louder it gets. I like to try different things out but this noise is just ridiculous. I made a vid but for some reason all you hear is the engine so I might have to tape the cam underneath or take the shifter boot off or something. Anyone got a reason as to why switching made it do this? I used the gold plated stuff before and it never made a sound. I've heard nothing but good stuff about the redline GL4 stuff so I might try that next. Think my trans has so many miles it makes all the flaws in fluids stand out.

I have to agree with you here. I get the same mileage winter or summer. Like when I went to NY at 70-75mph and it was 11F ambient and I got 24mpg. That was nonstop driving. Last time I did nonstop driving I did 70 all the way to denver and only got 21, and it was 70F ambient. There were barely any hills until I got to denver, though it was probably uphill throughout the entire trip. I got the same mileage on the way back though. Cummins does have a point with their 60-90F thing but I do think the "running hard enough to keep cylinder temps up" would offset this. Need more proof but from what I have personally experienced, I think AH64ID is right. As for the frontal area part, I was up to operating temp eventually and never stopped the whole trip so basically showed the true effects that cold air can have on engine efficiency.

I am thinking after it goes through the turbo and intercooler, you are seeing 60-90F. Cummins says: Diesel engines are best suited for air temperature s between 60 and 90°F [15 and 32°C]. Engines can withstand temperature s below or above this range, but their efficiency drops. Intake Air That Is Too Hot Engine horsepower fails about 1% for each 10 degrees of intake air temperature rise above 90°F [32°C]. An engine rated at 250 horsepower will develop only 240 horsepower when the intake air temperature is 130°F [54°C] with the same fuel delivery. Air That Is Too Cold Cummins Diesels are rated on the basis of intake air at 85°F [29°C] temperature , but in most localities engines operate part of the time at temperature s of freezing or below. A drop of 60 degrees in intake air temperature results in a 160-degree drop in compression temperature . The knocking of a diesel engine when you first start it in cold weather is a warning that the compression temperature is too low. Low compression temperature s have the following effects on engine operation: Failure to ignite the fuel Delay in ignition of the fuel and, in turn, detonation or fuel knock, and higher peak combustion pressures Irregular combustion and rough-running engine, particularly at idling speeds Possible periodic failure to ignite the fuel charge with resultant dilution, lubrication problems, ring troubles, etc.

So your going to tell me that something I already bought and already put in and already am happy with, is junk? Did it occur to you that I might have contacted SBC? So lets say I told a guy who just bought a powerstroke, that he just bought junk, even though it gets 20mpg and tows like crazy, you tell him it will break in half by 250k...

Ditto, mine had same symptoms as yours but eventually the clutch pedal stopped working altogether and I had to drive without clutch. Spring had came out and went through the pressure plate and it wasn't pretty. I wouldn't have thought it either but such subtle symptoms can actually be something a little more serious and a little more costly. Take the trans out and look, might be surprised what you find.

You say that, but how can someone live without loctite! It's supposedly an 11th commandment if you read everything a certain way I know we have 5 different types on hand. Can't live without it!

Well that doesn't really help me. The haynes manual specifically says put it on the one behind the headlight, and I recall them topping it off with the same port. You say this is the high side port though so now I'm beginning to wonder.