ISX

Alright I finally reread it enough to understand it. If it is in fact FUEL additive that you dumped in the crankcase engine oil, then I WOULD drain it. Additives often contain things comparable to paint thinner which will break down the oil and will not have a good effect..

Is your's run off the vacuum or ECM? If it's vacuum controlled you might have a leak. The actuator is under the driver side battery. Check all the vacuum lines to see if you have any leaks. Let us know if it is ECM controlled..

I just thought of something but I don't know enough about them to understand how they worked. The old tractors that started on gas and ran on diesel.. What did they do about compression? I would think there would be some serious detonation..obviously there isn't but why?

Yeah, just 3M. Mine was thinner stuff than 3M but same basic stuff.

Now THERE'S an idea!

They say that E85 sucks because cars aren't set up for it. It's like 110 octane but then gas is 87 so how do you compromise? You have to roll with 87 compression, this means E85 is WAYYYYYYYY under compressed for its octane rating. The compression needs to be much higher to take advantage of E85, and I think then you wouldn't have people losing 5+mpg when running E85. It has less BTU than gas but still, it is just like trying to run diesel in a gasser, there just isn't enough heat going in to burn it efficiently.

Want me to scribble CTD on the side of it so you know? Maybe the smoke would fill you in

Ah yes. Getting somewhere. I am betting your problem lies with that CKP. It is the sensor that makes the most sense to be causing all these issues, to me anyways. I am kinda beginning to think its not the CKP itself, but the wiring rather. I don't see replacing it and then somehow it goes out again in a year or whenever the problems started acting up again, I think you jiggled the wires going to it when replacing it and gave it a solid connection but they have jiggled loose again. Make sure each wire is pressed into the connectors and haven't been pulled out also. I'm gonna put all bets on bad CKP connection

Very nice looking dash! Takes a lot of skill to do something like that I am pretty sure the 12v being sent does lock the tc, not sure but my ford was the same way. As for the TPS, no idea. Keep working at it!

Idea #2. You say the CKP fixed it, then the injectors pacbrake and all that fixed it. But maybe the CKP has a loose connection somewhere or frayed connection or something. You say the TC is very strong and will accelerate while idling, so I am thinking when you put it into drive, the engine lugs at first and then compensates, but with the CKP screwing up, it either stalls or idles weird because of the haywire readings it is getting. It doesn't know what to do. I think when you were messing with round 2 of things (injectors, pacbrake) that you hit the loose connection somewhere and it fixed it until it loosened back up. It could be further along the line than just the sensor wires, you would have to trace every wire that had to do with that sensor all the way back to the ecm. So theres another idea for ya

Yeah I forgot to ask if it jerked. So hmmm. It's almost like there's air bubbles hitting and missing. But you got that checked out too with the clear hose. But you say you rev it up and it prevents stalling which really makes me think an air issue. Hmm, but why only when you shift to drive. Yeah I'm drawing blanks now I'll keep thinking. I'm sure some others will come in to feed the fire.

Crazy thought here. Maybe the torque converter is locking somehow for a second? I have a manual locking switch on my ford and I forgot to unlock it when slowing down and it chugged and all, I think if I was stopped and locked it, it would stall. road just idling along at 5mph or so the engine will suddenly go rumph, rumph, rumph, rumph, rumph quickly like it’s going to stall then catches itself and revs a little each time to prevent a stall. Exactly what my ford did, did it jerk each time it "rumphed"? The computer keeps it from stalling so thats why it didn't stall while moving. Not sure on this but is a thought..

Not sure if that would work or not. I once ran 40mph everywhere and got worse than when I ran faster, there just comes a point where you are using more fuel turning the engine than you are gaining distance, like in 1st gear at 2000RPM you can see what I mean.. I don't think you could idle at 30mph anyways. Well I take that back, I put it in 4th and idle 20mph through this 25mph town that everyone does 20 through, pretty nice just letting off and watching it lug itself, but that's at about 600rpm there is a slight hill and I have to start giving it some fuel or it starts "chugging". It won't idle in 5th so I don't think 30 would be possible, unless you had 4.10's maybe. Either way, you would be better off with a steam engine at those RPM's.

Well the story was a joke lol. That's about all there is to say about that.

From a workers point of view, the boss should be seen as just a higher up person. Someone you go to for help when you run out of ideas. The worker gets all the satisfaction of a job well done, unless a boss was directly linked to doing the job, he won't get that, he only gets money, but money doesn't say I did a good job, whereas you can look at your work and be satisfied with it. The only thing a boss has going for him, is satisfaction for his company. He says I have good workers who are sending out good products, but that's all he can say. A boss strutting around saying he works hard in the a/c.... you can't really expect them to admit they sit in their office all day for $100k+.. It's also their company which they started so why would they choose to give everyone else money to defy the point of starting a company, and why work either, I do understand they should feel a bit of guilt though and should respect their workers a lot more than they seem to these days. It doesn't bother me at all. When I worked for a boss who said he outworked me day in and day out when he really didn't, I just ignored him. Sure he has money, but nobody liked him, and I was the one who was able to say I made a lot of the stuff being sent out. So although he made money, I made satisfaction. If all you think about is the money end of it, then are you really better than them? because that's all boss's think about most of the time, so if you don't like it, become a boss.

No mod will touch mileage, it's your foot that affects mileage. Well timing might help a little but other than that, the 3GSK, delivery valves, injectors, all of that will only give you the capability to get worse mileage than before, but it takes the same fuel to go 60mph regardless, and the same fuel to accelerate at a slow rate.. I haven't noticed any mileage difference from stock, to where my truck is now, but I drive very consistently so mileage is always the same. I think that order looks better. 30-35psi boost is all you should ever be getting out of the HX35, max. Beyond that it goes out of it's map and becomes very inefficient, building more heat than boost. Timingwise, I wouldn't go over 16, 15-16 is the sweet spot for mileage/power that is safe to go to without worrying about the head gasket.

Advancing the timing makes it snappier, gives you better mileage kinda, but also increases pressure in the cylinders. I am not sure at what rate but the more advanced the timing, the less your max boost should be in order to keep the head gasket in one piece. I am at 16.5* and run around 33psi max with no problems. I am not sure if the previous owner put 3K springs in mine or not but from all the youtube vids I compare with, I think he did. So it will give you fuel up to 3k instead of 2500 or where your defuels at. Sure is nice on mine.Injectors are above me. They will flow more and give you more power and all but you might find very excessive EGT's when you floor it if you are running stock turbo and keeping the boost under head gasket limits. The intake has a restriction where the 2 bolts go on either side of the tube and you can see where it cuts into the intake, so supposedly you get more flow and more boost response at lower rpms if you get an intake like CFM+ or something. My brother put 190 DV's in his stock 160 truck and it made a pretty good difference in it. But everything is linked. So just because the pump might put out more fuel, if you have stock injectors, they will now be your fuel limit. Your trans should blow up eventually, though the lock up does help a lot, but eventually you will just destroy the torque converter altogether, and since the rest of the trans will already be destroyed, it probably won't move very good :lol:If I were you, I would just do the 3k GSK to get a little more range out of it, and maybe advance the timing a little to make it a little snappier. I would skip injectors and maybe do the intake and delivery valves. Injectors are a leap into the next level of power so that's why I wouldn't touch them. The only reason I say delivery valves is because you have the 160HP pump which has tiny delivery valves, so 180 or 190's will get the flow back up closer to the 215HP 12 valves, which use 180 DV's stock.

Well I have a 3 day weekend that will be hot as hell so I think I will throw a new bearing in and see if anything changes since it's only $10. Part # for pilot bearing on those 13" jobbers is 1635-2RS if anyone wants to know. If it still screws up then I will do the master/slave. I know all too well about needle bearing failure, but I have only had this SB clutch in for about 40k miles, so I can't believe it is already screwing up. Might not be it though, but $10 is cheap enough to make sure it's not that. Make that $5 http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0474470&ucst=t ---------- Post added at 04:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 AM ---------- Another clue! I was on a big hill and I backed up and made a reverse U-ey so I was going backwards up the hill, and I push in clutch and it stops rolling backwards and starts rolling forwards, after moving an inch forward, something grabbed and I heard a little squeaking and the engine acted like it just grabbed the clutch, like when it's in neutral and you let off the clutch the engine drops a couple rpms to turn the clutch, well that's what it acted like. So I think it is the bearing and backing up was fine but when it started going forwards, all the ate up bearings grabbed, kinda like a pipe wrench only working one way. What do you guys think?

Think I got the same thing, 13" upgrade and all. Might have to take the engine back out

Well it has only done it once both days, but when it does it and I try and put it in gear, the synchros start to spin and the engine rpm starts to drop a little. It has done it after driving it, and getting to my parking spot and trying to back up, no go, and this morning it wouldn't go in after letting it sit 20 min. I am pretty sure I have the bearing style. I did power wash around the bell housing to get rid of all the black crap, might have washed some of the grease off that bearing. I might have to check that out, if it's fine I guess it's new master and slave.

I don't know anything about the clutch pedal or how to adjust it. Lately I have had to turn the engine off to get it to go into any gear when stopped. Has happened yesterday and today now. It's been flawless up till now so I think it just needs to be tightened up, but how do I do this? Do I just need to bleed it?

http://www.weather.com/weather/tenday/65350 That's right. To hell with the cold weather! Time to break out my speedo I want that trailer! Ours are all steel and it would be nice to have something that I could not have to worry about getting scratched or dented or anything else steel likes to do to things. Very nice!

I've seen a couple other guys at pumps getting every drop they can in too. I think it needs room to expand since the fuel is returned to the tank and all. Might be hard on some gaskets/o-rings.

I wonder how they even get them over there.. When I go on dealer sites in europe, you just see minivan-ish trucks. We had a foreign exchange person last year from Austria and she said everything over there is manual. She didn't understand automatics at all and said it would be hard to learn, or looked hard. Their drivers tests are a lot tougher too, requiring you to get into a skid and stuff. I'm very interested to see how they get one of our beasts over there though.

I have got 28 before drafting UHAULS on 2 lane 55-60mph highway Doesn't sound like much over my nondrafting high, but that tank had a lot of city driving and other things on it too, so the UHAUL must have been getting me 30+ to average out that high.