ISX

I have never looked at oiled filters for trucks. Sure does keep my dirt bike happy. They use just foam filters you could blow through and my dad went through the engine last year and said it was the cleanest thing he had ever seen. I use a 40:1 mix of 2 stroke oil so there isn't much oil to build up on anything, but there sure wasn't any dirt in there. But the air filter probably has as much surface area as our stock filters and it's only 300cc so I assume it wouldn't be viable on a truck, though I'd like to see the actual oiled filters people are using. Would be nice to be able to clean them as easily as I clean my dirtbikes filter.

245/75/16 for 2wd 265/75/16 for 4wd.

http://www.water-heater-repair-guide.com/waterheaterthermostat.html

Mine does the same thing. Only happens if you drive it and turn it off and instantly take the cap off the tank. Doesn't seem to operate any different so who knows, maybe it needs some pressure to help the lift pump. Fuel pressure is around 17-20psi at idle and shouldn't drop under 25psi under a load. 25-35psi is typical.

Could be. I was meaning to show you guys this. My brother came across a stock powerstroke that had a collapsed air filter for 30,000 miles so it was letting every piece of dirt in. Here is the result. The turbo is actually fine, but you can see the leading edges look all cavitated which I'm guessing was the dirt's fault. The turbo has 300,000 miles on it, same as my turbo did and I don't have any wear like this. All the leading edges look the same, isn't one in particular or anything.

Yeah the heat is due to compression which means its hot AFTER the turbo in the turbo outlet. The filter is the same as underhood temps.

So you're telling me, the FSS was dead, yet now you adjusted a nut and it fixes an electrical issue.. Anyhow, 16-20 is fine at idle its driving that matters. The pump runs off the cam so it pumps more with RPM. Driving it, it should never get under 25psi under a load. So 25-35 is fine, though you can be over 35 to supposedly 45-50psi and be fine as well. I made this vid for whatever reason one day but you can see what happens. Oh and I never get rid of the pulsations either, they are too slow to fix. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=LsOZ4I8jWE8

Here's something kinda neat. You can put in the variables you want and it kinda teaches you the effect RPM has on things. Orange cells are for the table, if you want to do it manually then put something in for the blue cells which also use the orange cells. The top row is HP and the column is RPM and both are editable so you can change it to whatever RPM range or HP range you want, like 1-100 HP or 1-100 RPM...it will calculate whatever is in there. Engine efficiency is basically unknown without putting a truck on the dyno and measuring hp AND fuel rate, so I use the engine data plate as a baseline and every data plate everyone has given me has been between 32 and 35% which is values from all 12 valves, 24v's and ah64's CR. Volumetric Efficiency is maybe 80-85% on 12V's and maybe 90+ on 24V's, though I have yet to see test data as nobody has a MAF sensor, apparently the 6.7's do though so it would be neat to get a reading off one of them. Let me know if you guys want something added and I'll figure out how to do it. TurboStuff.xls

I don't see how it could just fail. Maybe the connector screwed up. Maybe you could jam a wire into the solenoid side for the ground and 12V for the smaller gauge wire and try it again. I'm pretty sure they don't fail that often, especially when you didn't do anything but unplug it.

check #9 fuse or pull the connector at the FSS and check for power.

I think you adjusted it too far. You cannot make it HIT the pump. If it HITS the pump then it is too close and probably not pulling up all the way before it hits. 0.125 play is fine, I said if it's within 0.2 its fine. Unscrew what you did and it sounds like the FSS is fine and I would go back to investigating the throttle cable. You must remember that the solenoid only pulls it up and eventually it is past the point where the rack reaches, once it is past that point then it is fine. If you tighten it so tight that it hits the pump, then how would you ever know if the solenoid is all the way up. The solenoid MUST travel all the way up! Got it Rogan?

I have been digging and digging and everything I read contradicts itself so I want to get a discussion going on this. There is a formula for efficiency that states that a higher compression ratio equates to a higher efficiency percentage. However, we all know the truck pull guys are running no compression and enough boost to top your air compressor at home. Then we have nascar guys running 14:1 gassers. Now the main point of discussion is 4 core things. Effective pressure and density/temperature/pressure at TDC compression. Effective pressure is the theoretical compression ratio you would have when running a turbo. Meaning an engine with 18:1---0psi boost has the same TDC compression pressure as an engine with 15:1----4.3psi boost, so the latter engine has an effective CR of 18:1. So using those 2 engines, here is what I get with everything being equal other than boost and CR. These are all figures at TDC Compression before any fuel or anything comes into play (I haven't got that complex with formulas, yet). [TABLE=width: 500][TR][TD]Parameter[/TD][TD]Engine A[/TD][TD]Engine B[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Compression Ratio[/TD][TD]18[/TD][TD]15[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Boost[/TD][TD]0[/TD][TD]4.3[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Pressure (psi)[/TD][TD]841[/TD][TD]841[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Temperature (F)[/TD][TD]1318[/TD][TD]1193[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]Moles of air (Density)[/TD][TD]0.0406[/TD][TD]0.0531[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]As you can see there is a 10.5% temperature difference and a 23.4% density difference. Now all the gasser forums I go to say these 2 engines would have the same power as they go by pressure for some reason and diesel guys go by density. I have no idea why but ok. So to me, because there is more density in engine B, you could throw more fuel in it so you could get more power. However, the counterattack of engine A is that the higher compression gives it a big edge on efficiency which I think is what the gasser guys are going by. Now I did run across one guy who said CR wins at low RPM but as you increase RPM, you need flow, so a low CR high boost engine would start to take the lead on power. There is also the difference in temperature which would make the fuel ignite faster. My books say igniting the fuel and having it burn as fast as possible is another trick to efficiency, which is why common rails are in production because they inject all of the fuel in an instant. The preinjection seems to just be there to make it marketable (quiet). I have searched for a long time, posted to forums about the actual physics of it so they could possibly enlighten me, but they told me they dont seem to know either. So does anyone have anything to add to this that I haven't already said concerning engine A vs engine B or just more info on the principles behind each scenario?

You got any pics? The stock ones are almost worthless so I'd like to get some ideas.

I don't even drive my truck anymore. Damn thing doesn't want to break then maybe it will rust in half. Half the engine is in my apartment anyways

I'd rather my truck just break :banghead: everyone else gets to have all the fun, I have to drive my truck and nothing ever happens. When the tire blew up I loved it and even sat there for an hour just admiring the fact that I finally had a problem to fix. Maybe more mods would lead to more things breaking. My luck is just crap. I don't like driving my truck, I like working on it.

You might have someone watch the throttle as you press on the pedal. Mine at 60 barely requires any pedal at all.

The 6.7's use something fancy? Mine is junk now (rubber is squeezed out) and I really don't see me buying a $500 fluidamper. I assume a 6.7 thing would be at least half that price?

Yeah you just want it to be right before it hits the pump, it has 0.2" tolerance so anywhere within that will work, though you might be able to even go less because I measured it all with no plate.

Here's the writeup I referenced in my vid. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/569868-fuel-shut-off-solenoid-fss.html Here's a vid that should help you. http-~~-//youtu.be/iJlxqBNYUao

Assuming fuel pressure is good then and getting straight to the root cause, you can take the AFC arm out of the AFC and then put it back on and see what happens, thereby deleting the AFC. If that doesn't change anything, you can take the fuel plate completely out. If that doesn't change anything, you should measure how far the shutoff solenoid lifts, though you can do that before you take the rest out but taking that stuff out will give you all the fuel in the world so you can narrow it down easily. I hope you have an EGT gauge if you do that and drive it sanely. Then put it all back together once you narrowed it down. Actually you can try this as its pretty easy, then revert to what I just said. You can turn the key to ON and push the shutoff solenoid up so it will stay there, then loosen the screws on the shutoff solenoid itself where it mounts, NOT the 2 that mount it to the AFC. As you loosen or take the screws out, it will either already be bottomed out or if you can pull up on the thing then the arm is not hitting the back of the pump and is probably causing fueling issues. I'll make a video of this later.

I guess I shoulda been more detailed. I assume you stay on top of the fuel filters, meaning it could be an overflow valve. Low fuel pressure causes low power etc. You need a fuel pressure gauge just like you needed it before with the MPG issue. Changing filters and stuff should be routine and if something like that becomes the problem then you should reconsider your filter change scheduling. Meaning, it could be an overflow valve or anything mindless said. Rather than just changing parts, you need to get test equipment (fuel pressure gauge) before you jump to conclusions. I am a firm believer in finding the cause rather than doing a process of elimination, which can get very expensive. There are many people who spend thousands chasing an issue and they coulda just got some test equipment and probably found the issue much cheaper. There are other things that you could check that wouldn't require a fuel pressure gauge such as the fuel shutoff solenoid not lifting all the way or the AFC thing like mindless said.

No it just blows.

You answered your own question... No fuel means no power. Check fuel pressure, fuel filter clogged, etc..

You cannot apply time to something timeless.

I got mine from this place. Here is the 24V page, washers near the bottom. http://www.usdieselparts.com/index.cfm/category/124/injectors-dodge-59l-24-valve.cfm I don't know why they are so expensive. You can get the 12V kit for 12 bucks and it includes everything you see in the pic. The injector nozzles are both 7mm so I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you get the right thickness which the 12V kit includes all 3 thicknesses. If you measure all your washer dimensions I will measure mine and let you know. I have 2 other sets of different thicknesses I can't use so if your thickness is the same then I will throw them in an envelope and their yours.