ISX

In that case why don't they put the lincoln and washington memorial's up for auction.. I don't get why they want all this money, if they can't afford something then don't buy it. In missouri we have relatively cheap living, but our roads are the top 5 crappiest in the nation. We can't afford it so we don't buy it...simple. Though they are dumb here. We have a 2 lane that is cement and perfect that they just put asphalt over, stupidest thing I've ever seen. But aside from all that, I want to see trumps big surprise!

21 min 54 seconds. You guys need to pick up the pace http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_ur0JinRBQ

Yeah I got the 13" Flywheel from south bend.

We did it a lot faster than 4 hours!

I wish you could swap the front calipers from any ford truck with the pieces of crap on these. My 1990 fords work 10x better than these. They are some dual piston fanciness. I slammed on the brakes once so I wouldn't miss a turn and I slammed into the steering wheel. The dodge's brakes wouldn't lock the wheels up if they were on ice.

That's what I did..bent the mounts from such a tight angle too lol. You will just have to look at it a little. The crankshaft is also into the pan a little so there is also that. But I think it would work.

Well you kinda have to do it that way even if you pull it. I use "The right stuff" and it seals in like 5 minutes so you put the engine back in and get it over the oil pan then put it on and slam it on. Taking the engine out is pointless if the oil pan is the only thing. The only problem is getting all the old crap off the surfaces. If you could get the old crap off then it would be simple, but the bell housing makes it almost impossible. If it were me and thats all you wanted to do that required taking the engine out, I would take the transmission out... The front of the oil pan isn't the problem, its the deep back half. If you take the transmission out you can raise the engine up a little, get your hand in there and unbolt the sump tube, then wiggle the pan out the back. Now this is theoretically speaking, I haven't done it that way so you might get under and look first but from what I can remember, I think it would work. Then you would just have to raise the engine out of the mounts a little.

It's a blast! The biggest thing was to do it the way you said, taking the bolts out of the mount brackets instead of messing with the slots. Those slots are a pain because the back of the engine just hits the cowl so you just fight it the whole time. The power steering pump is a little bit of a pain as well. Yeah you gotta take the oil pan off to get the engine out. I've read some people have gotten away with it doing a body lift or something. Other than that it's pretty simple. Chilton's manuals give a good enough outline of everything. If you take the fan and fan shroud off you can probably squeeze it out without messing with the radiator but I chose to take all of that off and swing the condensor out of the way (hang it on the hood). Just take your time, it's easy. Oh and I pulled it so I could helicoil the AFC mount holes on the injection pump lol. So I had a reason!

I've been wondering this for months now and decided to see if I could get a list to drool over for when I win the lottery. Basically, what would the perfect engine have? Here is a list of things it should be capable of in the end: [*]No EGT issues, be it from low temps or high temp resistant materials (both if possible, cost is no object here) [*]As good of MPG as possible. This means high quality everything, exotic parts, I'm talking the same crap the F1 cars use. This is where most of the list should be categorized [*]High HP. This engine shouldn't be aimed at 1000000HP, but rather the most HP you can reliably make with all the other components, keeping it street legal and driveable and last 500k miles doing so. [*]High reliability. This thing should never be on the side of the road...ever. This means we could get into water pumps, radiators, anything and everything that is a possible weakness even if it's very slight. I hope this gets my point across as to what I want to talk about. Just things that you think the beast should have if cost is no object. It isn't gonna be a sled puller... Just an everyday truck that can have as much power as you want when you step on it, not have to worry about EGT's, get incredible mileage when you're not on the pedal, and last a long time... So here is my list of things to start. The reason I want to see what you guys say is because there are things I just learned about a few months ago and I wonder what other things I don't know about. [*]Ceramic Coated Everything...(is there something better?) [*]Pistons, there are fancy 2 piece ones and many other types, I don't know which are best. [*]Extrude Hone injectors [*]Extrude Hone everything else (I think this replaces port and polish? Haven't read enough) [*]Twin Turboes [*]Water Injection? [*]Propane Injection? [*]Better Intake Horn [*]3 piece exhaust manifold (ATS?) [*]Fire Rings (or o rings, heard some bad luck out of crappy fire ring installations) [*]ARP Head Studs [*]ARP Exhaust Manifold Studs [*]What Else!

I actually don't run any fan at all. It never gets hot and I work on it so much that I decided against having that fan in my way all the time. If you worked on mine you would never want to work on yours again. I have cleared away so much crap that you can do anything on it in 5 minutes. I want to really get a good design going on where to run everything and hard line it all. I am really good at bending pipe of all sizes especially little stainless steel hydraulic lines and I want to make the whole thing look incredible. I wouldn't run without a fan though since you do pull... If you go slow with a trailer it quickly heats up lol. As long as you don't cut anything (like the fuel plate) you can make it all go back to stock.. I am not sure on the bearing thing. I have never had a reason to replace mine and since I'm not a mechanic I never really mess with them so someone else can chime in on that. A build thread would be great. It's not like we have many 12V threads going in here very often so the more the better.

I'm not sure why I thought you had never driven one but I think you are driving the one you have right now. 12V's actually drive exactly the same no matter the power level. I noticed 24V's seem to manipulate the pedal input as you change the chip setting, or at least it seemed like it did. 12V's are always exactly the same, the only difference is the *potential* is there so if you want more power, press harder.. Over the last year I have never even floored it on mine, I just feather it to get the power I need to pass people or whatever the case may be. There is this steep hill in rolla, MO that is probably a mile long and it switches to 3 lanes (2 passing going up, 1 lane for opposite traffic) so that everyone can pass the truckers that slow way down trying to get up it. Anyhow, it shows perfectly how a 12V set up like mine works. I had the trailer and was doing my usual 70mph routine. Well there was a line of truckers and if you don't get past them on this 3 lane deal then your stuck behind them for a long time up all the other crappy hills. So I start passing them and there is always 1 or 2 that you are unsure about being able to pass since the hill is almost over, so you just push on the pedal.. The more you press the more it goes. Seems simple and the same as every vehicle on the planet. But on a 24V you have to mess with the chip to adjust power and everything, on a 12V you have absolute control, which is what I love. If the time calls for more power, it's there. Its easily controllable so I never understood why guys have to put plates and stuff on them to control them, I mean it's your right foot's fault.. The biggest issue that will make or break everything is EGT's. I have a 5" exhaust with a semi truck see through muffler. I don't think anything over a 4" is necessary, 3" is pushing it, though I know Mike seems to be fine with it, he still hits 1400 if he wants though, I don't, but I used to. I am not sure if the new shaft helped a lot in the turbo or what but it spools a lot better now and setting the valves as tight as you are comfortable is ideal as well (6 intake 15 exhaust). Now another thing I did and I did mention this in that writeup was that I ripped the fan and shroud off and that also seemed to help my EGT's out. Like I said I used to be one of the guys who could peg out the EGT gauge, now I can't, and I have as much if not more fueling going to it as I did back in the 1400F days. As far as timing goes...I have been all over the map. I think 13-15 is best. It kinda depends on where you live, how much you tow, axle ratio, etc. If you have 4.10s and live in texas then I would put it at 16, if you live in alaska and have 3.54s I would put it at 11 or 12.

I don't really see a problem but everything should stay in their own areas. As in, if they need to take all the guns away in that city to stop crime, then ok. If that other town needs everyone to have guns to stop crime, then ok. A town with nothing but the mafia and a town of honest people are towns with different needs. Let the mafia people get their guns taken away, turn each other in, kill each other for back stabbing, whatever, I think the mayor sees something we don't. It just seems to me like that stuff strikes everyone else as weird even though its fine for that town. The pro gun town is weird to me.. Every town has weird laws. I think any government official in wyoming only has to be 17. It fits the bill for the area.... If you go to alaska you will find coats, snowmobiles, etc, if you go to brazil you will find bikini's. If the people support his idea in this town, then they must know something we don't. And it's only illegal guns he wants to get rid of. Seems to me to be the same as turning people in who have a stolen car and giving them $1000..

Man, there are a lot of posts I can write, erase, and rewrite and this is one of them. Tell me your goals for this thing, what you want out of it, and I'll advise.. My truck isn't exactly for the unbeknowist cummins owner to be driving around. As far as driving a VP44 and P7100, the VP44 is smoother because the fly by wire setup seems to allow it to give you the entire range of the throttle throughout the pedal. Meaning you have to push your foot down a lot farther to get more power out of the VP44 because it is using the whole range of motion of it. The P7100 being mechanical, only uses like 1/2" at a time. The governor moves that half inch upwards on the pedal as RPM increases or rather, the "hard" spot. Meaning at 3000RPM, the hard spot is now the actual hard spot of the floor lol. Go out and blip the starter (to engage the shutoff solenoid) and then press on the pedal and you will notice it only goes 1/2" before it gets hard. You can press hard and it will keep going but from that initial hard spot on, it is just pushing a spring. That 1/2" is actually all it takes to go from 0-100% throttle.. The governor creates a sense that the throttle is the range of the whole pedal, but it isn't and if you drive based on that hard spot by never going past it, you will notice it makes no difference when you actually do go past it. Going past it actually defuels it slightly at lower RPM's because of the geometry of the arm inside the pump. I've noticed this while stepping on it at slower speeds. At high RPM there is no difference.In other words, if she moves her foot 1/2" at a time, it might be a little tough. But I think she will adapt just fine. I am making this a lot worse than it sounds only because I can feel the slightest difference between all this crap

Ah yeah I think you got it figured out. Sorry I forgot to bump you to standard member, I'll do that right now, then you can download everything.

A few years ago when I was still green enough to not know how to set my own timing, I took it to a big diesel shop in rolla, MO. They had a CR block there, every piston was melted. They said it was completely stock. How can a stock engine with all of the fancy electronics allow it to melt? I think a stock 12V or even 24V (vp44) barely hit 1000. So what exactly happened to the CR engine that allows it to just melt in stock form?

I'll help you out with a wiring diagram. They are in the downloads section. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=220 You will need this to open it. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=29

I saw that too, was thinking antiseize must be a lot better at hindering the rust. Hex0rz, explain haha

So I kinda got back on the ball with this and spent most of the day looking up more stuff on the SR71 lol. This one is very interesting and must have been an incredible sight. http://tailspinstales.blogspot.com/2010/01/slowest-blackbird.html

Well you guys showed me something in a different light So now I am left with some more specific questions. Red vs. Blue, when and where to use it... You guys explained when and where to use loctite, but not the type. Is there a "real" difference between the 2? Then you mentioned antiseize which I thank you for. You say to use it where stuff might rust but what other factors call for it? Oh and the part about not using loctite on bolts with a load on it like the valve covers..I was under the assumption all bolts had loads on them so could you clarify this a bit? You guys are doing a great job so far, details beyond what I was expecting haha.

Ours is the same Stihl 290, so +2 on that. If it lasts one trip with my brother then it's bulletproof. It has lasted several years.

If the thing is sharp it should cut without any pressure. Ours was so dull that the only way it would cut was if you got enough friction that it would burn the wood lol. I then helped a guy out once and he was some chainsaw expert apparently and had a million dollar sharpening machine and then I could go out and cut a diamond in half with no pressure. Of course I have no idea how to get it that sharp without the million dollar machine lol. It had incredibly fine grinding stones.

Mine has 350k on the stock injectors. They all pop fine but one or 2 have developed a tiny leak at the end which guys here tell me is from it not being able to seal perfectly from the gazillion times it has "popped". I don't notice any difference with the truck per say so I don't know if it's actually an issue. If it were me, I would take injectors out and clean them every 100k miles. At 500k I would replace them. Ideally you should pop test them each time after you clean them to see if one is wore out enough to need changing. I don't notice my leaky injector at all but it shows when I pop test it so it's not like you can just "feel" a bad injector, though sometimes it's obvious enough that you can. I know Mike has some 400k mile injectors from Caj that he says are the culprit of a random idle miss or something so I think that alone says it's a good idea to test them after you clean them. Most of mine were fine, I think it was only one that had issues leaking a little. I would think you could just get new tips and pintles but don't know if thats cheaper than a whole injector.

2H2 + O2 Burns to equal 2H2O So you get water...as W&F said. I think you mean what is created as a byproduct of engine combustion though for those who do the hydrogen generator stuff. It is still water but rather steam.

Yeah they are rar. files which takes some know how to get back to PDF. If you figured that out then figuring the wiring out is even easier

Sounds like you just need a wiring diagram to trace down all those broken wires, hard to diagnose anything when it's all spliced lol. In the downloads section you can find it. If you have any trouble let me know. Welcome to the site by the way..