ISX

As long as it isn't going over 35, it is fine. It should throw an overboost code though. Going over 35 on the stock turbo is not good. If you ever see it drift over 35 then you need to hook up the wastegate and get a boost elbow to get more boost yet allow it to be limited. Until you get that chip I don't think you have enough fuel to overboost it.

The HY uses a single main port from the exhaust manifold as in there is no divider. I don't know what the purpose of the divider is as I cut a hole in mine and didn't notice a difference. Anyhow that is probably why it has to be an HX as it has the divider. Though the wastegate setup is also different so maybe that's it. In any case, for quicker spoolup it is probably a smaller housing. An HY uses a 9cm housing which is really small so the relatively large (for that exhaust housing) engine has no problem spooling it up at low engine speeds. The HX uses a 12cm which takes a little more to get it going. If you floor it, the HY lights up maybe 200-300RPM sooner. But that is probably what they did, smaller housing for quick spoolup. As for the big wastegate, the cummins can actually flow more air than that little wastegate (stock turbo) can handle. I could hit 35psi with the wastegate in stock form, no boost elbow, no nothing, it was wide open but the engine had so much flow it could push the turbo beyond the 20psi that the wastegate was designed to cap. Banks surely knew this so they used a bigger wastegate that was sized properly for a cummins that was "turned up".

The spill port method is how you find the point of initial injection of the P7100. It is the point where all timing is derived. It goes hand in hand with the absolute TDC of the engine.. When you find TDC of the engine and the point of initial injection of the pump, you can loosen the pump nut, rotate the engine backwards to the desired degree (you can use calipers to find the chord of the circle (damper) and make another mark which would be the degree you wanted). This means you would have a TDC mark and a say 15* mark. You unlock the pump on initial injection, rotate engine backwards to the 15* mark, tighten the nut back up and you are at exactly 15* BTDC. Just make sure if you do that, that you rotate the engine backwards to hit the TDC mark, otherwise there will be backlash in it. That chart that everyone uses is actually derived from the spill port method as the spill port method is the single most accurate thing you can do. What they are doing for that chart is doing the same thing to get to 15*, then putting a dial indicator on top of the plunger and then rotating the engine back to TDC and seeing how much lift there was in the plungers movement. It would be interesting to get dead nuts with the TDC and do the spill port thing and see how far off the chart is lol. I would expect it to be right on but I would like to know for sure.

The carter is fine. It is very reliable and you just can't beat it. The only place I found one just searching is here http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/19941998-dodge-59l-valve-cummins-mechanical-lift-pump-p-193.html I would ask around on some bigger forums or ask in the vendors section of this site as I am not sure of puredieselpowers reputation, the last guy I sent over there for CAD parts got all wrong stuff.. You could do that method for finding TDC but it won't be as accurate. The valve drop method with the dial indicator is pretty well dead nuts. You want it dead nuts when dealing with timing. If you just want TDC for valves, don't even bother trying to make it complicated. Rotate the engine and watch #1 or #6 and wait until one of the valves open (depending on which way you are rotating the engine), whenever the exhaust valve opens, keep rotating and it will start to close. Before the exhaust valve is fully closed, the intake will begin to open. The instant you see the intake valve move, stop. Mark the damper and that is a crude TDC mark for faster valve setting than having to watch the valves. For timing it needs to be really accurate. As easy as the valve drop method is there is really no reason to not be that accurate. When setting the valves, TDC does not have to be accurate at all. Watching for valve overlap is way overkill on accuracy but it is very quick and placing a mark on the damper will make it even quicker. You don't want to know how far off you can be from TDC and still be able to set the valves.. We had a torpedo heater and brother must have taken it so now I have to light the wood stove. I didn't feel like putting shoes on lol.

I didn't want to put it back on since I need some seals so I tried to do a walkthrough of it. Hope this helps. Oh and you do the center bolt on the lift pump first so you can shove it in easier, if you do the one on the side first it is a complete PITA. Forgot about that. I did an incredibly detailed 10 min movie first but it was so detailed and long I made another lol.

The 12 valves are fine with the stock 3/8 line, going bigger is fine but not needed imo. We run higher lift pump pressures than the 24v's so it makes up for smaller size. No matter what you do it sounds like it will work, all it does pre-lift pump is suck fuel in so even the barb and a hose clamp would work fine. Just make sure to get fuel line hose or the diesel might eat at it over time. Diesel doesn't eat at things like gas but it is still a chemical. It sounds like you are intimidated by taking the lift pump off. I will make a video of putting it back on (since I took it off last night) to help you. Getting it off is a lot easier than putting it back on, but its mainly just this one bolt on the lift pump that can ruin your life. It is a 30-60 min job.

I'll go take mine off and check. Think it's 1/4" NPT but I'll make sure. --- Update to the previous post... Alright I got it out. It is actually 3/8" NPT. Here's some pics just in case you wondered what was there.

Yeah I was going to say you could dump the 3" little rubber hose going from the prefilter to the lift pump but I do remember mine always has some crap in it so it might be better. No problem, let me know if you need pics as I got pics of all this stuff..

That will work. As long as it gets from A to B then it will work Return line sounds good too. If that stock steel line is too small for the 1/2" hose you might get a small barb to 1/2" barb adapter and cut off 6" of that old rubber hose so you can go from the steel line to the barb then you will be able to hook the 1/2" on the other side of the barb. Otherwise you are dealing with a banjo fitting. It isn't just any banjo bolt either, it has a pressure relief in the bolt so it pretty well needs to be there unless you come up with some fancy way to regulate 35psi. This is probably way more than you want to know but just in case you get really carried away lol.

You are correct. Tank goes to the prefilter. All you would do would be run the new hose to the steel line coming off of that prefilter. The prefilter screen is replaceable but you normally just take it out and clean it since it's steel mesh. http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3845400S The return line goes to the other steel line coming off the banjo bolt on the front of the P7100, nothing taps off that line as that is the only return. The injectors return to the top of the fuel filter.

I have only watched one commercial on youtube in the last month or so, and it just happened to be that same audi one

I don't see how it popped like that. It is just a piece of crap coupling with vacuum pressure driving it, not a high pressure turbo booster. It's like there was a difference of speed between either side of the coupling, like you have 2 different sized tires on it or something causing the stress that would make it bang when it finally unlocked. The whining was the open differential going nuts. Thing is, I doubt you have different sizes on the front.

I think this has something to do with the delivery of fuel. Like air in the lines or a messed up injector.

Welcome aboard the SS unknown... That chart is ALL we have on VP44 timing. I don't think anyone knows exactly what the IAT changes other than it does change "timing". How much and does it change the map?, nobody knows. Who knows what else goes on that we don't know about. We can hear it knock louder so that is a sign of advanced timing, but my 12V doesn't knock like a 24V unless it is well above 20* timing, so does that mean a 24V is running that high? We have no exact digits, I can't even read that chart that is on here. I can see tendencies of the chart but I can't read it, I want numbers. I have had my timing all over the place and get the same mileage irregardless so I think there is something else going on with the 24V that we don't see, or it just advances it so far that it makes it inefficient. But nobody seems to know.

The first time is a pain if you don't have the proper puller. I don't so I had to do some engineering to get them out lol. I have done that maybe 5 times now in the last 50k miles. The warm engine must have really helped, they usually take a little work to get out, that time was pretty effortless. I rub the completely down with extreme high temp grease stuff I got at napa. Works good.

That works too. I use my frame to start my truck, batteries are in the back, run the positives to the starter and ran a couple negatives from the engine to the frame, works like a charm.

Yes ground the pump to the frame. I don't know which wire of the ECM turns on and off since I don't own one and nobody will say on this thread which one does so that's why I said use both that come from the ECM, removing all doubt. If it was indeed the positive then you could just run that to the relay and ground the other side to the frame, but I haven't read which one switches from the ECM.

A relay needs positive and negative to activate the coil, much like anything else. You can't run something with just positive or just negative. The schematic on top of the relay will show a coil symbol and have a connection on either end of the symbol. Those are the ones that get the positive and negative from the ECM to activate the relay. It doesn't matter which one goes where, as long as you end up with positive on one side and negative on the other, it will turn on. Now the other part of the relay is what it switches on and off. There will be another symbol that shows a light switch looking thing that is not connected or "normally open". It will look like this. You can see that 85 and 86 are the coil. 30 and 87 are the normally open contacts, you can see the "switch" looking thing between the connections with a dashed line going to the coil showing that it pulls the switch closed to connect 30 to 87. If you have any doubts just show us the schematic of your relay as some are different looking. Anyhow, you hook the PDC positive to one contact and the pump goes to the other contact. Doesn't matter which, it's either connected or disconnected so it doesn't care what it's connecting or the flow of current. Usually 30 gets the power and 87 is the accessory. When the relay gets power, the coil closes the contact between the PDC and the pump so the pump turns on. This does leave the negative of the pump in question, ground it to the frame. If your relay looked like that, an example would be hook the ECM positive to 85, ECM negative to 86, PDC to 30, and Pump to 87. Some relays have an 87a, this is a contact that is normally closed, meaning the contacts are closed any time the relay doesn't have power, so don't use that contact.

If the solder issue is fixed then what is it's issue with heat? The electronics are frying now? Seems like a triple redundancy for failure. I would like to see something on the entire history of how they are failing, theoretically or proven. The soldering issue being fixed was the first I had heard of it. Not having a 24V, I don't read hundreds of horror stories to find out what happened, but there is no reason someone hasn't made a writeup explaining the history of failures. All I have seen is 1679 or whatever the code is means the pump is dead, never anything further detailed. The temps do not drop quickly either. John's truck had 18psi and it still took a couple minutes for it to even start dropping. I think the fuel flow is just enough to soak up the heat that is soaked in from the engine given that the engine/pump were cold from the start. Once the pump gets hot from sitting there with no fuel flow, it is very hard to get the temps back down. They didn't even get under 120F I believe, it just doesn't have the flow to cool it back down once it gets hot.

The problem is when you start it. I had JOHNFAK's truck for a week and his edge juice monitored fuel temps inside the VP. It was around 100F or so while driving it but when you turned the engine off and went to do something and came back 20 minutes later, it was already over 150F. That means when you start it again, that pump is very hot and the fuel takes a while to get it back down. It is the heat soak of the engine into the VP while there is no fuel moving that is the problem. Some people have tried peltiers I think on the VP but they are still fighting a losing battle. I still don't fully understand the heat issue vs. the lube issue. Mike is running 2 stroke and his pump has lasted for over 100k, yet then there is this solder issue as well. So there are 2 things against the VP as far as I can tell. I think they might have fixed the solder issue or something and now it is just a lube issue. I really don't know. I have never seen a solid answer and I don't own a VP so I can't tell you what the exact issue is.

I video taped the whole process and sped it up 6x. I popped the hood and hit record so you are seeing start to finish with me getting tools and everything. Actual length is 21 minutes. If anyone wants to see it slowed down for some reason then let me know and I will edit out all the parts of me getting tools and upload it at regular speed. And no, injectors do not come out that easy, at all. I pull mine a lot and use high temp grease on them which really helps them out. A hot engine also helps. This is actually just fun to watch. [*]Taking bypass oil filter return off [*]Taking boost gauge line off [*]Dipstick bolt out [*]Intake horn bolts out [*]Loosen intercooler boot [*]Take off intake horn/grab intake gasket [*]Take injector line mounting bolts out [*]Loosen all injector line nuts [*]Take off injector lines [*]Take out return line banjo bolt [*]Take out return line mount bolt [*]Take out return line bolts/copper washers [*]Take off return line [*]Loosen injector hold down nuts [*]Take nuts off [*]Use front lugnut to screw on top of injector [*]Use vice grips to pull injector out http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_ur0JinRBQ

I have never read a thing about it being hard to pump if it's cold unless it is gelled. I have never experienced a thing with cold temps either. You never use your block heater and it starts right up down to whatever coldness, even with the 2 stroke oil which is the only thing I see getting harder to pump. In other words, I think temperature is insignificant unless it is gelled. I see nothing saying cold fuel is hard to pump. I know it is a law of physics or something but the fuel is too thin from the start. I have ran straight 2 stroke in my truck as a test and it had no problem with it and you know its a LOT thicker than diesel is ever going to get. I even have a jar of diesel outside and shook it at 10F and it was still the consistency of water. Fuel temperature itself will retard timing. Cold fuel is going to take longer to get hot enough to combust. However, I don't think that is a factor. The fuel is pressurized so fast and to such a high pressure that it gets very hot no matter what. I am not sure how hot but I would like to find out. The other factor is that the injection pump itself puts a lot of heat into the fuel. Moreso all the pumps other than the P7100 because they are all cooled by the fuel so the fuel absorbs a lot of heat. The P7100 just runs it in and injects, doesn't use the fuel for anything else. The VE pump trucks (1st gen cummins) are capable of the same or better mileage as a P7100 and they use the fuel to cool so that rules fuel temp out. I think whatever change in temperature it gets to becomes insignificant when it is pressurized to several thousand psi in an instant.

My question is how did it happen when he says he didn't get it hot? Is it possible that #1 injector was leaking really bad and caused that cylinder to run a lot hotter? No doubt he has an issue with compression leaking into the crankcase, I just want to hear the causes of something like that when you just drive around normally.

Guess i changed it, ill change it back when I get off work --- Update to the previous post... There ya go.

I did find something else to help me with disassembly. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80597