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I mean so far out that you will hear the compression coming out through the valves.. Fat chance. The injectors are your best bet right now considering you are sure the timing is correct.

The white smoke is unburnt fuel. Low compression can cause this. Dirty injectors can cause this. Overly advanced timing can cause this. Valves that are way out of spec could cause this. Those are your options. If timing is sure to be 15* then it wouldn't smoke much at all except a minute at startup. Lets hope it's not low compression. Take the injectors out, clean them and pop test them. Then we'll go from there.

Don't know how to start this being as degrading as it was for me to buy a gasser. Anyhow, I got a 1994 Jeep Cherokee 5 Speed 4wd 4.0 inline 6. My truck does not like to warm up in the winter at all because it runs too efficient, thermostat stays closed, everything. That being said, it only gets to 175F by the time I get to work (15 miles later) so it is never even at operating temp. I don't want to keep driving with a cold engine every single day so I decided to get something else. Obviously the issue is winter so I wanted a 4wd. A diesel was out of the question because although I can get a crappy one, I really want HEAT for once without waiting 10 miles. I read and read and found the most bulletproof thing I could get and the 5 speeds are rare but I got one thank god. Also has solid front axle so I don't have to mess with those ridiculous CV shafts. Everything looks good, even has air shocks on it so I can raise and lower it. So the beast will get put up for the winter so I can stop running it cold. I also hate driving a 2wd in the winter. Doesn't look like we are getting any snow any time soon nor have I even seen a snowflake yet but carrying a tow strap because you know you might need it just drives me insane. I think this jeep is getting 20mpg so I might break even on fuel costs, something I was worried about with getting a gasser. Of course, there is also the luxury of being able to tear my truck apart and having a backup

I've had the problem with floppy disks. I just kept trying different drives and disks until one worked. You say the drives work so that only leaves the USB itself in question. I have 1 computer with USB ports that work and don't work that are even on the same controller so I don't know what the deal is. If I were you, I would try it in EVERY USB port, so move the keyboard and mouse to the front ports so you can test it in the back ports. If nothing still, then I would make sure the drives work by taking them to another computer. If that works then I would reinstall or upgrade the USB drivers. If that works then I would get a new USB controller altogether (PCI add on) and hopefully that works. I don't know why some USB ports do that crap but I haven't been able to pinpoint exactly why they do it. Do you have any info on when it started doing this? Did windows do any updates or something? I found something else that supposedly fixed other peoples identical issue. Open command prompt by going to start, run, then type cmd and hit enter. Then type sfc /scannow and hit enter and yes thats a space between the sfc and /scannow, then hit enter and let it do it's thing. If it didn't do anything it will just say it didn't find any violations. If it did find stuff then it should fix them automatically, after it's done see if the issue is fixed.

Yes the ppump is static timing. You might check compression as well.

How did he check it this time? The way you said he did last time is completely wrong. 15 degrees won't cause it to run much different than stock. Your symptoms are classic overly-advanced timing which means you really need to figure out exactly how he is checking timing.

I'll show you guys something interesting. Pics of my turbo after taking it apart. Probably 300k miles of buildup. Here is the shaft I pulled out. and the brand new one I got. I polished the other one up and that back half took forever. It is very close to the exhaust gasses itself being that that is the turbine and it shows that the oil gets hot. Thing is, putting that new shaft in helped turbo spoolup tremendously. I should take it apart again and see what it looks like since it probably has 10k miles on it now.

My toy..only bike I've had that has never let me down or left signs of physical abuse

This is true. It's just hard knowing when is the "right" time to shut down. I mean who was the person who originally decided 300 was the shutdown point? I am not saying it isn't the right temp I just like to see where this stuff was derived. Plus it is just interesting lol.

It was just a theory I had. I believe what you are saying but I like numbers. I will go with what you say until I can prove otherwise I need more gauges apparently. It is people like you that make me learn more so it's good that you stepped up and debated my theory.

That's what I did. However, mine is 5" and without a muffler it will drive you insane, which is probably even an understatement. The drone is just incredible and you could watch the crack in my windshield gain momentum. I am not sure if 3" would have the same problem, I kinda doubt it. If I were to do it all again, I would keep it behind the back tire where it is stock.. Just run a 4" system and call it good. Otherwise you can experiment with what you are thinking.

Ah HA! And that's the oil going to the turbo, so who knows what the oil from the turbo is doing. I'll get a gauge and figure this out.

Yeah there is no way to monitor it really so we have to use EGT instead, though I might try and dig up a fancy sensor. Running empty... Plus that still isn't exactly the thing. What I am getting at is that it's the heatsoak that does the coking "supposedly". My turbo didn't look too bad when I took it apart, but putting the new shaft in seemed to really make a difference. I'm thinking even a little coking has negative effects on performance. I am sure all of you have seen those pics of those glowing red turbos. Lets say the cooling system is big enough to handle that kind of combustion heat, so the coolant remains at 200F. The turbo on the other hand, sees all of the heat and gets very hot. I can floor it going up a hill and watch the EGT skyrocket over 1200F, yet I can top the hill and go downhill and watch the EGT go to 300F or less, yet pushing in the clutch you can watch it go back up to 400F, that is heat soak. It is an illusion because all the air the engine is pumping cools the EGT probe, even though the exhaust manifold and turbo remain very hot. Remember that the turbo in itself produces heat being something that spins several thousand RPM's. I don't think EGT's have anything to do with how hot the turbo is. Oh and the oil temp being the same thing...I want to see the temp on the oil outlet of the turbo.. Go 55mph for a while, until everything is nice and warmed up, then idle for 5 minutes and see what the oil temp is at that location. Now beat the crap out of it and see how long it takes to idle to get to the same temp and also note what your EGT says. I realize I am rocking the boat and I never thought this way until reading the title and it just kinda hit me. I think the oil cooler probably does a good job, but how long does it take to drain all the "coking heat" out of the turbo so the heat soaking doesn't coke it all. Thanks to whoever fixed my previous post. I typed it all with my cell phone at lunch

That's a good number. I think most wait for 300. Really it depends on what you did beforehand. The oil gets hotter the more you load the engine (towing) so you want to give it a chance to cool down. As I think about it, I don't think egts are a very accurate indicator of when to shut down, I think an oil temp gauge in the oil outlet of the turbo would be a lot better. Just because the egt is cool doesn't mean the engine oil is cool (which is the reason you wait for the egts to go down, so the oil won't coke in the turbo). If you think about it, the coolant runs the same temp all the time, but under a load the higher egts are transfered to the oil because the pistons are getting hotter and are cooled by the oil. So when you get done towing, the oil is hot, the engine will get to 300* way quicker than the oil cools down from idling (pistons no longer heating it much). You have to give the cooling system some time to pull the heat out of the oil.Egt is a decent indication of load though, since the engine will have to cool a bit to stop heating the egts up. But if you notice, the egts go right back.up after shutdown do to heat soak, that is what you are trying to do while idling, get the heat out of the turbo via oil cooling. In short, if I drive 55 mph unloaded, I could care less what the Egt says. If i pull a trailer, I will watch egts and wait for 300 plus 2 minutes. If its a big load that sent coolant temps over 200 the whole time, then wait for 190 coolant, 300 Egt, plus 2 min.Just my theory of the day.

It's just the fact that you will not get a cell phone out of a teenagers hands. When have you seen them ever give it up? They are the ones on the road thinking they are invincible and texting and doing all the other stuff. I am not saying that's bad, it's human nature, we were all like that. I realize my idea would only be on new cars, but eventually it would be on all cars, how many do you see on the road older than 10 years.. Starting now would be a lot better than never starting at all. Let me give you an idea about time. Wayyyyy back in the day, someone invented polarized windshields and headlights. This blocked light in such a way that bright lights hardly looked bright. This had no effect on anything but headlights that were polarized everything else looked exactly the same since it's not like a tree is polarized. You could leave your brights on and never have to worry because the oncoming driver just saw it as a dim headlight. They used the excuse that it would take years to be implemented, so they never did it. This was back in the 30's........imagine what it would be like to drive at night today if they had began implementing it then. I see cell phone ticketing like speeding, everyone does it, it's just far too easy to get away with. With everyone speeding, nobody is speeding in a sense.. With everyone on their phones (which they will always be on those phones), it will make the point neutral again. How will the cop know if the accident was caused by a cell phone or not. People will get around any system to disable their cell phone, they use it way too much. This is why I say they have to compromise with the fact that we aren't going to stop using them and provide us with a way to use them safely.

With innovation comes risks. Wouldn't be so bad if we didn't have so many people on the road, though I know just 1 person in the middle of the road can kill another person, out on the open highway. People aren't going to stop doing it until they have killed that other person, and even then they might be at it again in a year. Since we can't stop that kind of thing (because let's face it, there aren't enough cops to stop every single person they see on their cell phone), we need to come up with something else. One viable solution is like I think audi or volvo or one of them does with the dinging and lights and stuff going off when it senses an accident is going to occur. Basically, if you're going to divert half your attention away from the road, something needs to replace that half, and that thing would be a good start. I have never been in one of those things to see if it actually works but I think it would be easy enough to sense things like a car directly in front of you. They could put more into these sensors, making them better. They could do other things like that as well. It is just like air bags. Why doesn't a horse and buggy need an airbag? People wanted to go faster, and since there is no way to get people to slow down, we implemented airbags as a necessary compromise between speed and safety. You won't die or be perfectly fine, its a compromise. The dinging sensors in the car when you are about to have an accident would possibly prevent a head on collision and be side swiped instead.

I've wondered about putting a solar panel in ours. We have 2 windows facing 45* upwards so I could put a solar panel behind them and not worry about rain/hail/whatever. I see they barely make any power but a trailer sitting in the sun for weeks between uses has to keep the batteries fully charged. We just use a battery for lights/radio/tongue jack (oh yes, fancy lol). When I use it every time, the battery is already in the 11.9V range. I doubt it uses hardly anything while not in use so I think a solar panel would float them nicely.

So your saying if you put in some values like what you got at the grocery store today and it formulates things like tax on each item, you want it to remember that for each time you save as a separate day? As in, if you put in something different the next day, you want it to automatically list that day and the taxes for that day upon saving?

I am not sure a VE would like it. I have run straight motor oil and it was fine, though I was just sitting there testing out different "fuels". The stuff doesn't burn clean, I could barely walk past the exhaust without wondering if the wiff I got was going to take off 5 years of my already short life. The stuff also has metal in it. You know, all that crap that is on the magnet of the oil pan...and that's just the magnetic stuff. You have fine grit sandpaper running through the fuel system because the stock fuel filter will not get that out, maybe some but not all. The only way to do it, which is still leary with me, is to run it through a centrifuge filter first. If you don't do that and run it just through the stock fuel filter, well let me calculate. I think the plunger in a ppump moves from TDC to BDC about 12mm. At 1700 Engine RPM, the plunger itself will have gone a total distance of 66ft in just 1 minute, so 10 minutes is of course 660ft. So drag the plunger down 5000grit sandpaper for that long... Now the plunger is perfectly fit so maaaybbeee it won't get into the sides of it. Wellll, it still goes through the injector, the delivery valves, everything. You won't notice it, but over time everything will start to show the effects, and it will cost big money in replacement parts. Of course you could just not replace them and live with it running weird and getting crappy mileage. It won't blow up or anything. But remember, it is lowww cetane oil, it burns a lot slower than the engines are made to run. I found the owners manual of those huge 2 stroke diesels, it's like 1000 pages long, anyways, those things run that kind of oil, why? Because they are slow. You're talking a few hundred RPM, the fuel has all the time in the world to burn. Low cetane oil has the most BTU's of any fuel also. That big diesel was said to be 54% efficient. To make a long story short, you don't run that 85 octane crap that I saw in colorado (only goes to 87 here) in a nascar, it's not for nascars and they won't like it, same with WMO in a cummins..

I could do the whole hard drive in that case. No clue how to do it though. I also don't know if it would be fast since the internet people kicked me down to 1mb upload. All of my pics are close to 1mb.

I have a million pics of things on my truck that people might want to see to help them with who knows what, but I have no way of showing them. Photobucket seems a little unorganized/slow. I literally have a million pics so the last thing I want is it to take 10 min to go through 10 pics. I have maybe 50GB+ of videos as well but theres no way I can upload that. Wondered if someone had ever ran across a worthy photo sharing site.

What does it charge at using a multimeter? The only reason I hate the aftermarket (non PCM) regulator is that it has no voltage control based on load. As in, it is over 14V all the time, that kills batteries. You won't notice it but you will wonder why your batteries are slowly deteriorating. My PCM did a good job of staying around 13.5V and my batteries were always fine, after putting in the aftermarket one and having it stay more like 14.5V all the time, they are slowly dieing. The voltage should only peak after you start it, when the batteries have lost their charge due to starting, they will draw amps to recharge. As they top back off, voltage should drop down to 13.5 or so. It should be floating the batteries while running all the truck's accessories, which doesn't require 14.5 volts. I did find some "smart" marine ones but I could buy all new batteries with how much they cost, but that is ideal.

I didn't do it the way you are supposed to as I have no clue how you are supposed to do it. I did it a different way, comparing the straightness of the front tires to the straightness of the back tires. I measured off the wheel not the tire, making one side as straight as possible in relation to the back tire by turning the steering wheel, once that side was perfectly aligned, I went to the other side and didn't touch the steering wheel and saw how far off it was, which it was perfectly aligned as well. I used a longg "straight edge" to do this. Might not be how you are supposed to check toe but I don't see how it wouldn't work. Hmm, just read some other ways of doing it so maybe I'll try them as well.

I made an intricate setup to measure if there was any misalignments in toe or whatever my theory is, camber? Anyhow, toe was perfect. Could not find anything misaligned there. I used calipers to do all my measuring so I kinda doubt I wasn't accurate enough.. Then came camber, it was actually the opposite of my theory, as in the tops of the tires are farther apart than the bottoms, so they are leaning outwards, but this was hardly even measurable, it also says the outside of the tires should have been wearing, not the insides. However, the testing was done with the back tires on the front so they aren't bald on the inside like the others were, and this was with the air bags in front with lots of pressure. So either the air bags did it or the tires did it, or both. I'll do further testing if I notice these tires are wearing on the inside as well, from what I saw they hadn't done so yet.

That table is what I found and why I linked to the google search so you could see all the other tables. Alright I messed up the first time. Mike's weights are different from the chart as in at 35psi by weight on the chart, his thing says 45. Seems to get closer as weight gets closer to rated.