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Does your meter have a frequency setting? I would be interested in seeing what it picks up.

Alright maybe this will show you how it's supposed to be. Mine's a little different but hopefully you'll get the idea.

I might have to try mine with a different multimeter and see what I get. My digital one is a fluke. Good fluke not a fluke fluke lmao. It shows millivolts but maybe a crappy one will show what your's shows.

The waste gate doesn't come into play until 20psi. If it is stuck open, then that would keep boost low, but I am not sure it would keep it that low. There should be a line going to that which comes from the AFC on the back of the injection pump, if there is no line there then the AFC isn't getting boost and it is keeping it from moving the AFC arm over, allowing for full fuel. Let me just make a video of all the possible things and how to check them or else I am gonna have to write for a long time haha. --- Update to the previous post... Ya know, if the EGT's get up there then the AFC might be doing it's thing and allowing for more fuel so you might just check for boost leaks. The wastegate you can test by putting over 20psi to the fitting on that actuator that has no hose, just stick a hose on it and stick an air gun over it, as long as its not over 50+ pounds (which it won't be if you just hold it on there as tight as you can with your hand) then you can watch the actuator go out when you put air to it and come back when you let off. Look at the AFC on the back of the pump and see if it has an air line going to it. Vid will be up in an hour.

Ah there is John. He has an HY and your 99' has the HX if I am thinking right, early auto's didn't get the HY. So you would do the elbow and yes it works just as you described. I don't know about how the codes get set or anything.

The wastegate is a bypass valve for letting exhaust gas bypass the turbines so that there isn't as much drive pressure spinning the turbo. This is for pressure regulation. A stock truck will get to 20psi and then the wastegate will open and this keeps the turbo from overspooling. When you get under 20psi the wastegate shuts, although it is more gradual than that, like it might start opening at 15 and be fully open at 20. This leaves the apparent quandary of the flow it bypasses and really, it isn't much. If you turn the truck up you can outflow the wastegate and drive the turbo above 20psi, in fact you can get well above it easily. The video shows you how big the port is. Turbos use wastegates because of spoolup. Old trucks used huge turbos with no wastegate at all, so the pressure was merely regulated by using that huge turbo and of course there was no way the truck was going to get a huge turbo to go past the trucks designed boost tolerances. The problem with that was unless you were really getting on it, the turbo wasn't spooling much. Then came the wastegate which allowed for a small turbo that you could spool at low RPM's and the wastegate kept it from overboosting. The stock 20psi rating is very conservative, if everything else is stock then you're good to 35psi, after that the turbo is out of it's usable air map and you are just creating heat and wearing out the turbo. That is why they make boost elbows. The wastegate is actuated using the air on the boost side of the turbo (the compressor) which pushes the actuator open as more boost is built. You can hook a compressor up and watch that happen (think I got a video of that somewhere). This video should help you out a lot. The aforementioned boost elbow works by restricting the air that gets to that wastegate by using a little set screw that relieves air, therefore relieving pressure, so instead of the wastegate seeing 20psi (and opening), the elbow can be adjusted to where the wastegate sees 20psi when the actual boost is 35psi (this is what everyone does since more boost is definitely a good thing in most instances).

Yeah I don't get what this is about. They want to shut down the coal industry? I do believe everything should be governed by the states, people in washington don't know what's going on in north dakota cept what they see on weather.com It's the same as someone in a prius telling someone in a diesel how they are polluting the environment (wherever that thread is on here about that).

The boost elbow is a sorta blow off valve. Instead of 30psi going through it, it will blow a little off so only say 20psi gets through it. I am not sure but I think if the engine sees over 20psi it will set a code so that is the reason for doing that. It is a tiny hole so you wouldn't notice any loss in pressure. The Jhook physically keeps the wastegate shut. John [originally from St Louis ] had that setup and it was pretty nice because the juice can be set to have boost limits, so even though you have the wastegate shut, it can defuel when it sees 35psi (anything after that is a waste of time because the turbo is working overtime on itself and too small so it just builds friction (heat)). You also run the risk of blowing headgaskets (and the turbo) if you get up there in pressure (45-50psi+). So as long as you can make it defuel before any of that happens, I don't see any disadvantages.

Try a different meter, if possible, an analog one. Digital meters have interesting ways of determining voltages, some work some don't. You changed out the alternator so I don't see why it would still be like that so I am guessing the meter is to blame. The voltage coming out of the alternator is not exactly DC but is rectified DC, meaning instead of the usual AC sine wave (which alternators are 3 phase so 3 sine waves 120* apart), instead the diodes only let the positive portion of the wave through, so you end up with a bunch of mountain tops. 3 phase makes it a lot better since the mountain tops run into each other without dropping all the way to 0V, so the sine wave is straighter. The problem is that digital meters interpret these mountain tops as a sort of weird sine wave which is obviously related to alternating current. I can put my meter on Hz (frequency) in my truck and I get around 500-600Hz, how can that be when it's DC?... Now when I put my digital meter on AC, I get something in the millivolts range, which falls within your maximum limit. So in this instance it works, but I have used the same meter on a bridge rectifier with household power (60Hz) and since it inverts the negative peaks it ended up being 120Hz on my meter, even though it was only seeing positive waves. It also showed 30VAC from the rectified 120V outlet.. Something to think about

Eh it's not that hard, if you have a labelmaker. I didn't so it was a PITA.Just found out the PCM also controls the speedometer :banghead: Just when I was going to throw it out.

That's why I said those with a scangauge.. those show gph (gallon per hour).

Yeah the more advanced the timing the more it will knock. If it isn't at 15 degrees and somehow is advanced more than that, low end power WILL be sacrificed.

Next to the clock is a battery icon that shows how much battery is left or something. If you right click that battery you can click on power options. A window will pop up and on the left there is a column of options, one of which should say "choose what closing the lid does" or something like that. Click that then you will see options for it in the main part of the window, change it to "do nothing". Then you can hook up an external monitor/keyboard/mouse and close the laptop. If that "choose what closing the lid does" thing isn't there, then on the main part of the window it shows power options (high performance, power saver, balanced), well underneath the one that has the dot by it should be something that says "change power options for this setting" or something like that. I'm going by memory here as I am back on XP.

My question is, what is the most GPH you ever see? I know the airdog is doing whatever rate but how much does the engine need? I know you guys have to be watching the GPH on your scangauge contraptions while you floor it, if anyone would like to share what they saw and the chip setting (since obviously an edge on level 5 is gonna be even more than stock) then I would be very interested in hearing it.

I absolutely hate the stock wiring. I hate that ribbed black casing and the way all the wires come together around the p7100 and just make everything harder than it needs to be. I hate looking at wires so I got rid of them on the engine and routed them differently. Lately everything has been getting to me that people do crappily. The heater core line (the steel one), why can't it be stainless? Along with all the injector lines.. I'm going to slowly redo all of it to make it the best it can be. I can't stand all of this ignorance nowadays that allow for CEO's to buy islands and such. An example of how a business should be is ARP [studs], they produce nothing but quality and don't sacrifice it to make money. I need to rewire my engine, again, only a lot better, planning it out first and I found I can remove the PCM completely in place of something much simpler. I would love to tackle the dash wiring if it wasn't such a PITA to take apart. I could really do some damage to a 1st gen

There I fixed it. That is the only thing I wish still worked. The PCM did a good job of keeping the voltage around 13.5-13.8. And no, battery temp had nothing to do with it because I threw that sensor away long ago. This 1st gen regulator runs at 14.1+ all the time.

I am not sure why I never did this but I pulled all 3 plugs on the PCM and the only thing different was I lost all the check engine lights (THANK GODDD!). So I am wondering why there are a million wires going to it. I had lost some functions after rewiring my truck but I thought the PCM was still doing other things, apparently not. From what I can gather, this is all it runs on my truck: [*]Coolant Temp Gauge (Got my own, accurate to the degree exactly (digital)) [*]RPM Gauge (Got my own, accurate to the 100ths of a revolution, 1000ths if I am below 1000RPM(digital)) [*]Grid Heater Relays/WTS Light (don't care) [*]Water In Fuel (WIF) Light (especially don't care) [*]Check Engine Light (an issue would be obvious on a 12v) [*]ABS (never worked anyways) [*]Cruise Control (never worked right) [*]A/C Compressor (rewired to run off of pressure switches) [*]Maybe Airbags (Don't want to check) [*]Voltage Regulator (Got an external one for 1st gen) I don't think it runs anything else. I think I will put the grid heaters on a timer relay, got everything else taken care of. Then I will get rid of all those wires. Maybe even, eh, hmmmmmm.

Alright I was gonna wait till it was completely done but I am so slow and can't hold out any longer. The wire brushing takes forever and I can't bare the thought of doing the other 5 but I got one completely done so here's what I got. I got pics of the process leading up to it if anyone wants to see but internet is being weird so I managed to get just the end one for now. Alright I got 2 now.

Even cheaper when you already have 3 colors laying around I got one almost done, finish it tomorrow. Took forever and I still don't know if it will beat your's. Plastic would be a lot easier haha.

Had to look that up lol. Mine are aluminum so that doesn't do me any good. I do have an idea though after looking at yours and using my imagination. I might do it tomorrow. Have to wait and see. Might be a complete disaster as well, you have set a very high bar for me to try and beat :banghead:

I wish I could get out for it being too nice of weather outside lol. Very nice job! I can't even find any flaws, much better than I could ever do.

That's what I figured but as bright as they were I was surprised nothing at else even thought about working.

I can handle everything else she said since she was trying to sit in her car and have a peaceful time and I ruined her life, but telling his wife to stfu in front of his kids is a deathwish.I also don't see what her problem with diesel exhaust is. I roll my passenger window down in the morning so that the initial plume of smoke will blow into the cab. Better than morning coffee

I think michelins are the best tires out there. The LTX M/S will last damn near forever, the A/T's will last almost as long. I got some hankook dynapro A/T's and although they are incredible in snow/ice, they don't seem to last as long. They are only $150 each so maybe that offsets it a little. For some reason when I got the truck it had 2 different tires and one pair was good and the other was gone so I've been letting the front tires (older set) take it easy and have the hankooks on back which are loving my screwed up limited slip (doesn't slip much in tight corners). I am pretty close to getting all new ones on all 4, spare is actually a brand new michelin LTX A/T. Anyhow I have read pirellis are very hard. I can't stand that sidewall drift when I go into corners. I probably just need bigger wheels so I can get smaller sidewalls because there is no way I'm going to keep slowing down to 40 on corners I can take at 60 just to prevent that drift feeling that drives me insane. My ford was fine until I put different tires on it and now it does it too.I run my tires at 80 in front and 60 in back.

I would keep turning it in then. Your foot will control the smoke if you let it, I took my AFC and plate completely out so I rely solely on my foot. So I say turn the starwheel all the way towards the radiator then let your foot and the amount of smoke be the judge. The AFC only comes into play at 5psi or less depending on where the starwheel is. It is only there to prevent smoke before the turbo can build enough boost to clear the smoke up, so it really only plays a role when you're taking off or in low boost RPM conditions. Tightening the valves will help, putting a straight pipe on it will help. Also make sure the fuel and air filters are good. You might need to check fuel pressure to see if the overflow valve is weak and causing low fuel pressure which will hinder power. This requires drilling a tapping a banjo bolt..