ISX

Ah there we go. I'll prove the disclaimer wrong tomorrow as well --- Update to the previous post... I don't know what to say now. What I found as per W&F's request was astonishing. Going by my original chart I made in another post, it shows that at TDC, the only pistons actually at TDC are 1 and 6, as long as those 2 pistons are good to go, all the rest are as well since they are all set up exactly the same. So in the chart we can see that 1 and 6 both open the intake and exhaust valves during opposite TDC cycles so only #1 or #6 has valves open. This is the only time the valves are getting close to the piston as they are both open, the other TDC phase involves having both valves completely shut, so there is no contact issue there. The setup I did was setting the valves to the appropriate valve lash (I-10, E-20) and put a dial indicator right on top of the valve spring retainer cap thing, so I would get absolute vertical movement, not the arced movement the rocker makes. After setting the valve lash to stock 10/20 settings, I barred the engine over to absolute TDC, with both valves open on the valve overlap phase. I then zeroed out the dial indicator so I could get a measurement of how much farther I had to go before the valve hit the piston. Here is what is mind boggling. Tightening the lash screw starting from the original 10/20 settings, I could go another 0.070" on each valve. That means the intake could be tightened completely up, and then go another 0.060". The exhaust could be completely tightened up and could go another 0.050". I barred the engine 1/4" to either side of TDC and checked the piston contact and it was always an even bigger gap meaning my TDC mark is right on the money. So what gives! Am I missing something or what? This would mean you have absolutely no worries at all about piston contact. I am going to measure #2 to make sure my #1 piston just isn't melted down to nothing or something.

Found a bunch based off of Russ. http://ttcperformanceproducts.com/turobtimers.html http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BD-1081160 http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r4130.asp I am not sure if any of them go to 30 min, looks like 10 min max or whenever the thing gets to the right EGT.

Something like this would probably work. http://www.hometech.com/hts/googlebase.html?item=EL-960 It isn't very high amperage so you would need to make it turn on a regular car relay rated for whatever amps your fan is rated to use. To trigger the relay, you could simply wire up another car relay (anything will work, triggering the timer relay won't take much amperage) and put the positive voltage on the NC contacts so that when the truck is turned off and that relay is de-energized, it closes the set of contacts that give the timer relay 12V, which then turns the timer relay on for 30 min. That same wire that triggers it with 12V can be ran in series to a DPDT center off switch in the truck that opens the circuit from the relay to the timer relay, and leaves everything completely off in the middle, or can manually be turned on as long as the switch is on by sending 12V to the higher amperage really that runs the fan. Here is how you would wire it. Little complex but this whole setup should cost you $50, I don't know where you're gonna find a high amperage 12V timer relay that will cost less than that. Sorry about the crappy schematic but I can't draw one very good with windows xp's paintbrush Big version is here. http://i52.tinypic.com/jrrbcz.jpg But maybe you can see this resized version.

I think I did but didn't make note of it for some reason. I'll do it tomorrow! Good thing I got exact TDC etched into the damper. I also want to figure out how much longer it is open per 0.001" lash difference per crank degrees. I think the minimum was 6 intake 15 exhaust with a max of 15 intake 30 exhaust. I'll have to dig around for that spec. I'm wondering now if there is a certain combination that yields the best results. Like is having the intake open too long eating into the compression? Is having the exhaust open too soon eating too much of the power stroke? I'll dig up that other thread where I measured everything so I can pick up where I left off. I'm pretty sure the only reason we use 10/20 is because it is midrange to the specs. In school we were told to do that as well, if it is 10-20 then you set it at 15.. But I think this isn't efficient but want to figure out the issues (other than hitting the piston) that go along with running it tighter. Am I losing power?.. I want to exhaust all questions until we know everything about this topic, same with all the other topics in this section. This particular topic might take a bit of excel work to figure some things. I'll dial indicate the hell out of it tomorrow.

Did the 4" have a muffler or was it straight pipe? That is really interesting how a stock truck could notice a 2mpg diff going from 4-5", both of which are seemingly way overkill on a stock cummins. Gotta hear more on this Did you change anything else at all other than that exhaust? Fix anything?

Yeah I don't have to pick my arm up and put it on the mouse with the left arm anymore. Doctor Monday

Copy cat Now I know what mine would look like if I shined them up more :stuned:What is the weight rating on those? I've never seen a "G".

I think this has turned into a big debate in some places so I want to know what you guys think (without the debate lol). Power has a lot to do with this of course so lets keep this to saying we have sane power levels (<400HP) and how exhaust would effect the truck. First we have the stock exhaust. Is that 3" with the muffler and all that really too much of a restriction when at stock power levels? I don't think it is but would you gain efficiency by straight piping it, leaving the power at stock? Most people have around 350-400HP lately because of the cost to get much more out of them without having egt issues or something. What size exhaust do you need for that? I know Mike seems to be doing fine with a 3" straight pipe but even cummins manuals for cummins 5.9 gensets with the same or lesser power say 4" minimum. So what gives!? Is there really a benefit to going bigger or is that folklore? I think it has been shown to reduce EGT's by 100F going from 3" to 4", but if the exhaust housing exit is only 3" then wouldn't you not notice anything because of that bottleneck? There is a lot of people going both ways with this so I would like to see some proof as to which is fact and fiction, from personal experience to actual testing.

One thing I have noticed a lot of difference in is valve lash. When you tighten the lash up (decrease the gap amount), you make the valve open sooner and close later. This allows for more air to get in and out. By tightening them up, the turbo lights sooner because more air is being shoved out at a lower RPM. This gives you a ton more efficiency down low from what I have noticed because boost helps burn fuel, when there isn't enough air, fuel is burned inefficiently. Inefficient burn can be compromised for less power by letting off and getting back into an efficient burn ratio, but this is inefficient in itself because you might be starting to go up a hill and you will either have to go up it slowly or maintain speed by giving it more fuel that will burn rich but get the turbo spooling eventually. Why should you ever have to wait for that turbo? Running the valves tight help out a lot, but there is more to it that I want to know. The exhaust valve is what drives the turbo sooner if you run it tighter, but what does the intake valve have to do with anything? Do they work hand in hand? As in to get more air out the exhaust valve do you need to run a tighter intake to get more air in? Is there any benefit to running it looser? One issue with running them tighter is you can only go so tight before the valve and the piston contact, which is not something that is very appealing Thankfully valves tend to loosen over time rather than tighten.

I'm gonna go ahead and make it then. Not sure where Mike ran off to, must be at the beach I'll start it off with a few topics and everyone can add info to them or create a new thread/topic, ask questions about a particular topic they are curious about, etc. Sound good? Ok

Check this out! I found a little excerpt on wikipedia about this, dug a little more and found a bigger article. They are thinking about making that 5.0 V8 an ecoboost, which as you know the V6 is twin turbo, and so shall be the 5.0."A recent report by thedetroitbureau.com states that a source close to the situation has told them that Ford Motor Company is "considering using the EcoBoost (turbo) technology on a modified V8" to serve as a replacement powerplant for the aging supercharged 5.4L that currently resides in the Shelby GT500. This probably doesn't come as much of a surprise to our daily visitors as we reported early last month about an article on Pickuptrucks.com that said basically the same thing. According to that report we're told to "look for a twin turbo 5.0L V8" making its debut in the 2012 Shelby GT500. The EcoBoost V8 is said to be code named "Road Runner" which is pretty humorous considering that the naturally aspirated 5.0L making its debut in the 2011 Mustang GT is dubbed "Coyote" and as we all know the only thing that could beat the Coyote was the Road Runner. It also points to the possibility that the Road Runner is the same basic motor with the EcoBoost system grafted on. Another little interesting tidbit came from Autoblog who disclosed that when a few Ford execs were questioned about the possibility of EcoBoost V8 Mustang most remained silent while one cracked a smile and asked "Who told you that?" Take that for what its worth. So assuming it comes to fruition what could we expect from such a beast? Well the 2010 Taurus SHO, which makes 365hp from it's EcoBoost V6, is said to be capable of up to 600hp with tuning and more boost. If that little 3.5L can muster those numbers then it probably wouldn't take much for a 5.0L V8 with a similar turbo system to easily break the 600 horsepower mark. With that said we think its more realistic to expect around 550hp, enough to one-up the current GT500, but not too much to concern the lawyers."

I'm trying to be innovative here guys Leave my personal problems out of it

Could be any one of the fittings you can see here, since they would all obviously leak on the bell housing. Seems like you checked over all that though. You might double check it, maybe even the #6 injection line is a little loose, though it should miss while running.

I just had a thought here..it has come to my attention that MPG is a very talked about topic and I have always wondered how to get the most out of my truck. Now I know there are guides and stuff saying air your tires up, take weight out of the truck, whatever but I want to go about this entirely different. I think everyone knows every little thing effects MPG to an extent, from the tires to the quality of the car wash you got. My thought is to expand on this. If MPG goes up, that means efficiency goes up. If efficiency goes up, pulling the trailer becomes easier. You seemingly end up with more power if say you made the truck more aerodynamic, you aren't pushing as much wind so you seemingly have more power. In essence you aren't making more power, you're becoming more efficient with the power you have, getting more out of it. The thing I want to get going is some big threads going on each topic of efficiency/mpg. So if I started a thread on tires, people would all pitch in what they know, people would ask questions about aspects of a tire that effect mpg/efficiency or even something else. Eventually we will have a huge thread just overflowing with incredible information about tires. Now I'm not going to stick to the usual crap like tire pressure, wind resistance, stuff most people cover a million times, I would like to go in a lot deeper to valve lash settings, turbo boost, turbo flow, temps of things, etc. I think there is a lot of folklore out there that just sticks to the basics that might be 100 years old (like 3000 mile oil changes is pretty well a thing of the past, but if you don't think so, why? Those details are what I want to hear). It would be nice to keep it constructive, no reason to call someone out for a certain way of thinking, give facts as to why you think that way. Myths won't hold up to well to a person with facts. Nevertheless I think this could be an incredible way to allow people to understand their trucks more, why things are set a certain way, how they could be improved. I believe trucks are set up universally, rather than for the individual. What the grocery getter does needs different settings to be more efficient, rather than the daily TT puller's settings. I can go on and on about each little detail so I know theres a lot of people who can as well, eventually we can separate fact from fiction and have an incredible resource. So what do you guys think? I am thinking of just making this a subforum of some section, general diesel maybe, but I wanted to know what the forum as a whole thought.

I'll just video tape it next time. I ask myself so many questions about what happened, as do others, video woulda been so much easier lol. Maybe in 5 or 10 or 15 years i'll try it again, cept it will be a bike I don't want and it will be heading into an ocean so I can just land in the water when it peters out

Holy cow! Getting oil has come a long ways since "And up through the ground came a bubblin' crude. Oil that is,.." Definitely need more pics

What is frac mapping? Or frac at least lol, never heard of it, sounds very interesting though, do tell

I don't think the shims matter that much. They are all the same size from the factory as far as I can tell. One interesting thing is when I took johnfaks apart, some had 2 shims and some had 1, but if you measured the thickness with calipers, the 2 shims were the same thickness as the one shim. I don't know what the deal was there.

Geeeeeeeez I didn't see that coming They should replace a movie preview with that at the theater.

Wide Open Throttle...Floored

Oh so you're the one providing all this heat We hit 95F here a couple times last week. Make you some kool aid I assume your a/c in your truck works, I found out you can't drive fast enough to keep cool with the windows down when it's that hot haha.

I just went through countless articles trying to find some meaning to it and it all comes down to idle time. Whenever you turn left, you are either waiting for a stoplight or waiting for traffic to clear, when you turn right, you can turn right on red and there is no traffic on the right since it's not like your crossing any lanes. UPS saves billions on fuel and time because 90% of their turning is using right hand turns. They don't want any part of sitting in a turning lane idling for who knows how long. It seems sound, I do the same thing when I go to town because of the wait time in turning lanes. Obviously if there is never any traffic for a left hand turn like a side street, it wouldn't be any different than a right hand turn.

I was actually going to point you to that but last time I looked at it, it was still in the testing phase. Definitely worth looking into, might have to get one myself. From what I can tell from the pics, you just tighten the nut up and once the nut is tightened up, you just put their locknut thing on the spline that happens to line the keyways up. Simple enough. Much more viable than getting that million dollar torque king shaft. Of course now I see it's only for 4wd trucks since I have a speedometer gear there :banghead: Back to the drawing board.If you're really tuned into you're truck, you can feel the nut loosening up. The play in 5th between when you are giving it power and aren't will tell you everything. When you tighten the nut back up, 5th is very tight, as it gets loose you will get more and more play in the gear until it finally pops off. It's not a ton of play or anything but it's definitely noticable, it's really obvious when you fix 5th gear and then drive it again and feel how tight it is. Once you have that comparison of a tightened 5th gear nut feeling and that loose 5th gear nut feeling, it will be very obvious when the nut is coming loose.

Don't ask

Tsk tsk guys.. Bed removed, power washed. Better view of the top of the sender thinger on the tank. That big ring on the outside unscrews. After you unscrew it, the whole thing comes out. Be careful not to catch the float on something and bend it all up. Then the actual sender, just a variable resistor or rheostat, you can put your multimeter on it and watch the resistance change as you move the float up and down.