ISX

How did the chat go anyways? My internet screwed up. It is determined to keep me from talking to you all :banghead: Maybe I am bad influence so shouldn't be heard from

It tops out easy. If I turn my brights on, windshield wipers on, HVAC on high, I am already over 60 amps. So then put an auxiliary load on it and you could top it out easy.

I have a digital timer from walmart for $20, even has a remote control. The only thing you have to remember is get one rated for at least 750 watts (1000+ is preferred) and it must have the ground prong. Some of them dont have the ground. If you are seeing amps instead of watts on the package then 750 watts = 6.25 amps and 1000 watts = 8.3.

That whole 2000+ RPM thing being instant drop is a bunch of crap. I know everyone preaches it on every forum but I have never seen an instant drop. I do 70 at 2100rpm and get 21mpg doing it. I got 17mpg pulling the trailer at 70 also. Speed kills MPG, not RPM.

Did you go through the dealer this time?

Yes heli coil that mutha In my experience if the threads stripped out then there is a reason, be it junk bolts or junk material you are screwing into. I went through hell with my AFC bolts because the P7100 is aluminum and the 4 fine thread bolts were so small that I easily stripped out the aluminum threads. I was trying to get it tight enough to get a good seal and you could hardly get it tight at all before you felt the threads pull out. After oversizing and having that not work either, I got smart. Went back to the junk bolts or junk material and since aluminum was junk I said ok I will change it, to helicoils. I can tighten the absolute hell out of them now. They are so simple and so strong that I would become a helicoil salesman if the offer came along. I think you know how to do it but just in case, you just drill the hole to the size the heli coil needs. Blow the hole out so it is clean. Get the heli coil tap and put oil on it (or any lubricant) and then tap the hole, do NOT tap it dry, always use oil and ALWAYS clean the tap after each hole. I used compressed air to make quick work of everything. Then you screw the heli coil in and get a small punch with a flat blunt end and just take a hammer and tap the thing you screwed the heli coil in, off of the rest of the heli coil. It is very hard so it will snap right off. Then you can use the same size screw as the original.

They say and from what I have seen with mine, it can use any sensor. BUT!, you must know what the sensor uses. Like a pyrometer is a K type (IIRC) sensor so you can look up it's coefficients. It is a highly customizable module and is not plug and play in any way shape or form (though it is set up for EGT stock so that part is plug and play). So as long as you know what type of sensor it is I believe you can use it.

Get a honda and be done with it. We have one same as that one (3500 Watt) and we beat the crap out of it. We overload it all the time and it powers through it (I know this because of an amp clamp). Buying cheap generators is like buying a stock lift pump, it will work for a while and go out on you and you will have to get and new one over and over, or get the airdog 150. Honda generators are the airdog.. There are even better ones out there but the Honda one's are definitely great.

I chewed him out for that earlier today He is doing some industrial yard clean up and is getting pretty involved with it.

Your in the right section, this is for anything made by chrysler (dodge/jeep/etc.) If you were wrong we would move it to the right section for you :thumbup2:Let us know what you have wrong with it and someone will help.

Pm'med you about amsoil.. Got rid of all the rest on here to keep from stirring things up/getting off topic. As for the OP, tranny temp gauges are very valuable. It will allow you to keep an eye on it so you know when you are getting too hot.

In addition to the stuff they said I will give you some more input 1st hand. I drove to college 3 times a day, maybe 4, both ways. So 8 trips a day for 5 days, I might roll a mile over on the odometer doing that for a week... It is across the street but I had to go all the way to the back of the place for where I was, maybe 1/10th mile from my apartment to there. But yeah the coolant was lucky to get 20 over ambient, even on 0F days I didn't let it warm up for more than a minute. Now the results of this are your rings are not happy. When I bought the truck (with 254k miles even) it would start at 0F without the grid heaters on the first crank and have no smoke whatsoever, it was like it was a summer day. Now, it needs the grid heaters on that 0F day to get it to start instantly and it smokes. I haven't noticed any mpg difference but the power has dropped a little. USE the grids every morning startup, up to 40-50F. If you just leave them alone they will run up to 60F, which is good. If possible, plug it in. If you can plug it in for an hour before leaving every morning, that will help a lot. It's always 10000% better to plug it in for an hour than start it at 0F. Your batteries will also hate you. I got away with it because on the weekends I drove 180 miles to parents house and back so my batteries got all charged up again.

Well lets draw this out so everyone can picture this. We have 4 strokes, intake/compression/power/exhaust. The power stroke happens and then the exhaust stroke and tightening the valves would cause the exhaust valve to be open sooner right after the power stroke, this could cut into the power stroke pressure at the very end but I doubt it would hurt power much/at all. As the exhaust stroke comes to an end the intake valve opens, if the valve is tighter it would open sooner, since the exhaust valve is tight it will close later, this means there is more time for the intake pressure to shove out the exhaust gasses. Then the intake stroke pulls in more air because the intake valve is open longer. This helps high RPM operation out too. I think it would be very beneficial and if it is what made my turbo light a lot sooner but just going down 2 numbers from the original 10/20 (to 8/18) then it is definitely worth it.

Alright this is BS I see some sites saying 01 only and others saying 01-02 and then 00-02. So what is the REAL answer to when the HY's were produced? I am thinking 00.5-2002? Maybe Volkswagens truck was the first half of the year? I am gonna make a writeup on this afterwards because I have seen countless questions on types of turbos throughout the years on our trucks.

If you really want an idea of how big it is get a pack of cigarettes and there you have it. I don't smoke but I think everyone knows how big a pack is and it is about the same size. The possibilities are endless. Once I pulled it out I was like Woah!, this changes everything! I thought it would be bigger. In direct sunlight it is definitely unreadable unless you can see the tiny variance of red. Being under the dash pretty wall solves that, though mine could use being farther back into the dash.Yeah mine being the 94-97' style does change it a bit. I don't remember what your style looked like around the dash too well.

Yeah that's the one I posted about. At least we are on the same page now. Let me see if there is a way to wire it to work.

I was gonna say something but your cummins is an auto If you had a manual you could learn to sync all the gears. Start on a 24V and work your way to a 12V, 24V's don't drop in RPM very fast so you can easily drop it into gear, whereas a 12V drops RPM like a damn 2 stroke so it's harder to hit the sync speed. I wouldn't recommend it though if you are grinding a lot of things, it will wear the synchros out of the manual on our trucks.

Get a pic or something of the switch you have. I want to be sure of what I am working with. I will see what I can figure out since you want all the features.Single switch high idle is easy but all the features make it a little harder.

Do you want all the features? I will have to look at it a little more and see if you can get by without relays, never thought about doing it without them, relays are just too fun for me to ignore --- Update to the previous post... You have one of these switches? Should connect like this anyways.

Yeah I told Mike he was full of crap over and over until I tried it the other way Not sure why it only grips one way *insert shrug smiley that Mike seems to have deleted*

Yeah you just need the relays. Mike's way doesn't involve relays so there is a little bit less work/wiring. Yeah it has 12 terminals. 2 are for the coil and the rest run relays and such. --- Update to the previous post... If you can't see my schematic very good that is actually a scaled down picture. The full size one is here: http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Other/HighIdle3.jpg

The alternator won't grip the belt the way the engine turns. It grips if you turn the engine over backwards. It grips it fine and everything you just have to work in reverse.

Yep. Only the 2000-2002 auto's had the HY. All the other 24v's had the HX35.

From what I have heard there is no difference.

Well Mike just told you what I just said, maybe more understandable. But I made a video that shows all the technicalities.