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The HY35 will screw you over at highway speeds and low RPM will also screw you over. You can't evade the latter except downshifting but the HX35 should give your highway speed EGT a good drop. Everyone swaps them out so I imagine they are a direct swap. Rburks sounds like he has done it so maybe he will chime in on the swap.

Jlwelding, I drove a long ways this past weekend and at every fillup I had a lot of pressure at the fuel tank cap.. I know you asked anyone else if they had the same thing but I hadn't noticed til this trip. Not sure why it has pressure but it does I might have to see where it is supposed to vent at.

The only "chart" I can think of you seeing is the HFRR chart. They used 200:1 but that was just a test they ran. Mike runs 128:1 and recommends it on all the VP44 trucks.

I think rburks answered all your questions :thumbup2:But you running 1500RPM is the main issue.. You should never lug it like that with a trailer, downshift it. Only problem there is you would be in 2nd gear which I don't think locks the torque converter, so your trans would heat up, but it would have been at 2200RPM which would have been a lot better. Problem is that lugging it with a trailer like that and going up a hill will pretty much send any truck over the edge on EGT's, there simply isn't enough engine RPM to get rid of the heat and the momentum of the engine is so low that any fuel you give it really doesn't do anything but add to the heat. You have to get the RPM up so it has some momentum and horsepower and then the engine will sing. The 12cm will help but if you see on the chart I made, I am in the same boat as you at 1500RPM. So basically, you just need to keep it higher up in the RPM's.

Yeah just a quart per tank. Put the quart in first so then filling it mixes it all up. Try this, just put in 128 for the ratio like it says, works perfect. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/ratio/ratio.htm

12cm. Only the 01 autos have the 9cm HY35.

My last run with a truck on a trailer (6000lbs) I had results like this. This was 5th gear going uphill and me keeping it at speed. So the 2000RPM shows what the EGT is at about 68mph with it holding constant. Each reading is showing how hot the EGT got to hold it constant at that rpm going up those hills. You can see the lower the RPM, the higher the EGT, and it is pretty exponential as you lug it the thing will just start to spike since the boost isn't there and there is no real flow through the engine to take the heat away. That is why you would downshift, I could be at 1500RPM in 5th and melt it or put it in 4th and be down to 800F at the same speed. You hitting over 1200 on a hill at 40mph is unreal, what RPM was it at doing that? If you get to any big hills with a big load you gotta get the boost and RPM up, 2000 is the sweet spot on mine, from there on I can pull any hill and not worry about EGT, that is why I do 70mph every time I pull a trailer.

The interesting part is Johnfak has the same issue, and you both have 01' autos, meaning you both have that 9cm exhaust housing. I would get a 12 like everyone else has. The 9cm restricts the exhaust and you don't want that when your towing. They put the 9 on so it would spool up quick, the tradeoff is its a bottleneck. I predict this is the main problem between your's and John's truck. After that, a straight pipe will help, but John has a 4" straight pipe and obviously he still has EGT issues, but I am almost certain it is because of the 9cm bottleneck. You could put a 10" exhaust on but it still has to go through that bottleneck.

The grid wires weren't connected, they were corroded off, so no factor with them But it does seem every tedious. Like the new batteries fixed it since I think the alternator had to work harder and put a load on the engine with the old bad batteries, but then it got cold and the tranny fluid became the major factor.

There ya go Everything I have been showing you is John's truck I have a 12V 5spd.. He used to live in Missouri also so we met up a few times.

If we could just figure out how you are able to go into D while you start it without an issue, that might be the key to all this. I just don't know what happens when you start it. I suppose it is giving it more fuel to try and get it to 800RPM so if you stick it in D while it is doing that it keeps it from stalling, but I'm not sure. It looks like it is started and running at 800 for half a second before you are able to get it into D but it must still be in the starting "mode" or something. I just don't know what it is doing at that period of time. Obviously fixes the issue though.

So what is it that the engine does when starting and going to D instantly that keeps it from screwing up. Does yours fix itself when the transmission warms up? Johns worked fine once the trans was up to temp, it still dropped and everything but wouldn't get to that stalling point. Your does seem a little more responsive to the load. I don't know how the cam sensor is set up but if it is like I think it is and the engine has to move 2 revs for the cam magnet thing to move past the sensor once then I can see the cam sensor engines would be less responsive. Do your EGT's shoot way up when your in D like Johns does? You can see that thing was up at 440F.

He's right on that time change border.

No. It's kind of hard to get at but not too bad.

Forgot I made this video, I was testing out whether the cold engine protection had any effect. Anyways I put it in reverse without touching the throttle and it died. So then I tried with just holding it at 1200, died. Then tried holding it at 1200 and stepping on it as I put it in D, it ran but once I saw it running I let off and it died. Then tried 1200 and stepped on it and held it and let off slowly, you can see even after a few seconds I let off and it dropped so I had to step on it again and let off real slow and then it held at the usual 750.

Just take the tube off the turbo that goes to the intercooler and move it aside, start it up and spray the compressor wheel with the hose. Just light spray, not drench mode lol. You just make sure the water doesn't fall into the intercooler tube.

No, just one. Guess he could go north a mile and be 2 hours lol, but he tells me he is one behind me.

Damnit, I was gonna post at midnight. I didn't even tell him it on the phone at midnight Well, Happy Birthday anyways

I think 450-500 is just the last RPM it shows before dieing but doesn't mean it tried to stay running, it just registered that speed as the cam sensor magnet thing went around one last time. I never saw it drop, wait, then die, it always died instantly or dropped to 500 and caught itself and was fine. Seems to me like 2 cam sensors 180* apart would speed up the response time since it has to go around 360 just to get a reading, and if it is the cam sensor then the engine has to go around twice for the cam sensor to go around once, which would obviously have a ton of free time. I wonder if the guys with crank sensors have this problem. Alright I see Sasqch has crack sensor lol. I think they just need more notches in the damper and more things in the cam for a faster RPM response reading.

Did some more searching and found out it is called the Kudzu Vine. This turns up a ton of pics of them. http://www.google.com/images?um=1&hl=en&client=opera&rls=en&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=kudzu+vines&btnG=Search&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kudzu

I know your jealous. I actually made the desk after getting ticked at all the ones at the store. Solid as a rock and nothing to kick underneath. I just need a view like you got.

That's a little bit too orderly Mike. I think we need a thread on what everyones desks look like :lol:Only problem is mine is probably the worst out of everyones.

I think that point has been established.. Nothing we can do about it but make the truck roll with it by responding faster or fueling better or something, but how...

You cleaned the air filter by soaking it in that stuff? Can I do that with my BHAF? The inside of my exhaust has less black on it than my air filter

When it was 45F I revved it up and put it in gear and it had to be at 1300 at the minimum, 1200 still stalled like it was at 800. It actually still stalled either way, I had to rev it up, put it in drive while giving it even more throttle to get it to not stall. Once it ran for 1 second, you could let off and it was fine. That was the only way to get it to not stall when it was that cold. I don't know what it would be like at 0-20F.