wil440

WHOOO HOOOOO finally did it and bought a Bridgeport mill, wow that is one cool machine for the workshop, ebayed but was 150 mile away, like a clown I went to collect in the ram, with everything else my brother and I bought from the same guy my ram was overloaded for sure but a bridgeport is very tall so definetly top heavy, we had to crank it into the lowest possible height Got 2 milling vices, a rotating milling table, cutters and a 3 phase planishing hammer mill, the legs sticking up on the left is the planishing hammer and the orange thing on the right is the suds tray, I could only just lift the rotating table off the ground wow It took me nearly a whole day to figure out how operate the quill power feed up/down Got it all wired in to our shop no bother ( thanks to my brother who does the electrics ) Did a test against our large Fobco pillar drill with a 1/2" drill bit no comparison even without the mill vice clamped down, got a full T slot clamp kit, collet kit and R8 to 25 adaptors ordered Now got to get my lathe moved from home to workshop Me thinks I need wider tyres and a higher ply LOL

Was at this site a few weeks ago working on a soil screen fitting new side skirts, found loads of receipts from the 50's from a company that manufactured bathroom stuff, like 500 soap dishes.. stainless, total was lesss than £20 for the lot but in UK old money, toothbrush holders 800 of for next to nowt, these receipts had been buried under 20ft or more of tip, dug up by an excavator then gone through a screen,. Now comes the strange bit, I'd saved a wedge of these bits of paper, my brother and I go to a pub after work which is 40 miles away from this site close to our workshop, we were talking to one of the barmaids and dropped out we'd been working on a site in Walsall, turns out she grew up in Walsall directly over the road from this huge site AND her Dad worked for the very company, needless to say she now has the receipts

Update I've been running on all levels between 4 and 8 and everything is fine, currently on lvl 5 no codes/ check engine light I'll try putting it back to 1 and see

Wow looks good

Change the engine oil and filter and run it on idle for a while, drop it and change oil again , keep changing the oil till it looks clean. Throughout this oil pressure is the test, if its low well it needs a rebuild if good its OK It might take a while to get the oil cleaned and it will steam out the breather, running it on idle with the cap off will get it steaming , just watch it and the more steam means more water removed

I had a bad MAP maybe 2 or 3 months ago so ordered a SMP MAP from Rock along side the long steering joint, long story short, the steering joint bashed a hole in the box and on arrival no MAP, it had simply fallen out somewhere in the well over 3kmiles to get to me, to be fair Rock sent a replacement straight away, actually within the very same day as the delivery day, cured the no boost problem no bother Fast forward 2 or 3 months and the same deal, intermittant no boost then everything all good for a indetermined time then no boost and NO power I have been running my quad on LVL1 stock with boost fooling due to the damn cost of fuel here in the uk, ordered a new MAP 2 days ago with a view to a warranty claim with rock later now here comes the head scratcher, I thought " OK I'll try the quad on a higher setting" set it to LVL 4 and up to now no boost codes, check engine or no power...... WTF I cannot see how a higher setting on the quad gets rid of a MAP sensor fault, to be fair I haven't checked voltages or continuity yet

I wouldn't rebuild for a oil cooler leak if thats the only problem, oil coolers can and do leak and as M73M says while engine is running oil goes to coolant, when shut off coolant goes to oil, makes a right mess of both compartments but a rebuild..... no Fit a new oil cooler, drain the engine oil and refill, use a coolant system cleaner that will break down oil you will need to change both the engine oil and coolant several times to get rid of the cross contamination but don't forget the oil in the coolant IF it hasn't been run for too long will still sit on the top of the coolant so a shop oil pad will suck that off the top no problem IF the motor is cream crackered then rebuild but don't waste a shed load of money just because a cooler leaked

That my friend is the million dollar question, in and all around a very TOO small workshop

I got around to collecting the motor 2 weeks or so ago, all looks good but haven't had any time at all to do anything with it I did get a really nice brand new hardtail frame off of a guy 25 miles from me for the sum of £150, it's set up for a pre unit triumph so will need the engine mounts removed and the seat post moved further back Also had a bit of luck with a crame company that has sold out to another bigger main dealer, 2 forklifts, one electric 1 ton shop truck and a big diesel 3 tonner, a 65 ton Laycock press, 2 x 3 phase 440v compressors the biggest of ran the entire workshop and spray shop of a british Leyland main dealership close to me when I was a kid and a electric/ hydraulic crane maybe for my truck of our big trailer

There is a specific panel beating tool to shrink metal, I have one but have no idea how to use it or how TF it shrinks metal Come to think of it there is a panel beating tool to do most things to metal, I again have most but only any good with one ...... the old fashioned hammer

As IBMOBILE says remove the headliner you'll see what's going on much better anyway Not sure if you have seen Fantom Works, car restoration shop in USA on TV here at the moment, they just did similar damage on a 64 GTO but on the A and B pillars which were crushed but sideways not downwards No parts available so managed to pull both back into shape

I'd have a go at getting that out,no use to you though as I'm in the UK which would actually mean i'd have to do it as for one parts are silly money and body shops here would also be silly money. I would be taking the seats out and finding/buying/borrowing a hydraulic porta power, figue out where to position the PP on the floor to push upwards bracing and adding timber or steel sections to protect the floor, go nice and steady staying away from the roof skin and just concentrate on the side and see what happens, a good big dent puller would be usefull too, the one with weld on studs or make one. Another option is to de spotweld the roof skin from the side structure then cut the damaged side/top peice out and tig in a new peice (you'd probably be able to find a peice from a damaged cab) I know what M73M says about it not being as strong but welded properly it will be fine, don't forget cars are only spot welded together That saying I do love body work, doing a 2011 ford transit full cab floor, steps, inner and outer rockers at the moment

Finally got the call to say the engine is done, I got the nod from a friend of mine about 4 weeks ago to say the company was shut, done, closed finished so Off I went straight away to check, they were shutting but the guy guaranteed me it would be done so bearing in mind these 2 guys had been messing me around since may22 I told them they had 2 weeks or I come back and take a pile of machinery, guy said he was waiting for crank bearings so I asked if someone was making them with a nail file as nearly 10 months was taking the ~~ss Going to pick it up next week at some point

I don't pretend to understand one line of that but you are definetly living up to your forum name "Great Work" hopefully you can get this to the point where it is the better option than fixing the dodge rubbish

Got the lift all back together last saturday afternoon took around 2 1/2 hrs Had a peugeot boxer tipper on it yesterday weighs around 2.5 ton so all good, got to change the steering rack on it, looks like peugeot grew the vehicle around the steering rack My truck on it tomorrow

My brother and myself have a workshop together where we do a lot of welding and fabrication work as well as vehicle welding and repairs. Just done a Komatsu PC 290 excavator riddle bucket that had the entire bottom ripped out of it, cutting edge and riddle slats right back to the bucket roll, got another in on friday for 2 outer shanks to replace Got 2 Mecedes vans to build hydraulic decks in the back to carry 5 coffins for a funeral company A few weeks ago our 2 post lift wouldn't raise, the quadrant on the R/H screw is worn to the point that a small clip pops to stop the lift being used (safety feature) We had to use it for one job welding a camper van for MOT inspection but we made sure we had it supported as well as the lift We bought a replacement yesterday 9000lb 4 poster MIUSA CA to be precise best thing about this is it is moveable and 240volt instead of 3 phase To move it 4 dollies with a wheel on each is placed under the beams, put 4 pins in and then the ramp is lowered this lifts the 4 posts enabling the whole thing to be wheeled around...... genius We bought it from a repair shop that had just spent over 50k on new lifts...... some people have more £££ than sense Took us 2 hours to assemble yesterday afternoon, just hydraulic oil today and a test lifting my truck which is I'd say is right on the limit

I tried a pair that were supposed to be a replacement for the original bulb number bright...... oh yes I just couldn't get them down low enough I was shining onto the underside of aircraft they were that high, took them out and went back to the standards but they are candles, really need to sort something out

Not far off parity when I had to buy it, might have been $1.10 but can't remember for sure, figure around $400 ish all in My first American car.... 1972 Plymouth Roadrunner with a 440 it was over $1.80 to the quid (pound to you guys) so parts were close to the dollar cost so $100 part might have been £100 here with shipping, duty and vat It really does bug me that our government gets ££ out of me for sweet FA and it will only get worse due to the climate nutters pushing for net zero and the easiest way to force people is to tax vehicles off the road. Sorry for the hijack.... the rockauto rad is ok and as a side note I recently ordered a right hand track rod end ( the really long one) as it was noted at MOT inspection and also a MAP sensor as it was randomly messing around, all from Rockauto, it arrived in a long right side track rod end sized box maybe 4ft long BUT the track rod had punched one end out of the box and there was no sensor in the box as it had fell out somewhere, I sent R/A a message and fair play they sent a replacement out the very same day.... no questions... but the delivery guy did take a picture of the ripped box and he did log it as not arrived, I fully understand that #### happens...... but when it does that's the service I want

Mine sprung a leak from a side tank, got the replacement from Rockauto due to they ship to the uk the radiator was rather cheap, shipping duty and Vat made it around £400 IIRC

Yes propane doesn't cut it (squse the pun ) To make it worsr, really rusty on the outside and double skinned with a 4 to 6 inch gap filled with all manner of stuff as insulation which of course had mostly melted to glass hard slag It used to be a copper/ brass smelter and one kiln inside the insulation gap was filled with brass and copper, my brother pulled out a intact brass copper pan and we also dug out 3 4" Brass aircraft refuelling fittings or maybe firefighting fittings, going to pressure wash those off then give them a bath in my ultrasonic cleaner so we can see what they really are 5 kilns now cut up and off to the scrap yard, they'll be new cars or bean tins in a few weeks or so, one supervisor was telling us that the company that is regenerating the site, company we work for has had £100k up to now from the scrap and they've barely started

Don't know about USA but here propane bottles are Orange, Acetylene are purple, so a manager/supervisor/ health and safety jobsworth etc knows if you are cutting steel on any site it needs to be an orange bottle and you would be banned from working on the site if caught with Acetylene The steel is 1/2" thick on all but one, the one is 7/8ths ish thick, they are rivetted together so on a "joint " thats at best 1" some joints are triple and quad thick, I cut one joint today that was around 3.5" with rust between each 1.2" plate, they have a big shear on site thats on a Komatsu 490 but it won't touch these kilns @Tractorman Acetylene is banned by companies due to outdated information, Germany did a paper on fuel gases in 2012 I think and that found it is no difference to propane but it's still banned here on site, you can still use it, I use it in my workshop The UK is an old world country so yes lots of history going on here

Got the job of cutting up what I was told were kilns at a large ground regeneration site in Walsall about 40 miles from me, which is defined as the Black Counrty https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Country and no it's not what you think 5 had been dug out of the ground with more still buried, of course with the stupid Health and Safety laws here Oxy Acetylene isn't allowed on site so are having to use Propane which for cutting is next to useless Site has remnants of a Dunlop belt works including the tip and metalwork companies and has got to be completely excavated down to clean ground which is in places 30 to 40 ft over a huge area And all the pictures are the right way up too

I'll second that, driving home from a site on Tuesday night I get a headache after about 20 miles and thought I could smell something, thought it was from outside the truck so carried on with the window down slightly, got home no problem Same thing Thursday night, same site, about 15 miles into the drive home towing my workshop in the dark gets a headache but this time the lights went off for a second or two not long after the headache came on Top left of the dash just above the headlight switch was getting rather hot, I checked it out Friday morning after fitting a new MAP sensor (been messing about for a week or so) and light switch connector melted a little and evidence of 1 pin getting really hot, bad connection inside the switch for sure, fitted the one off of my 3500 and all good. A poor electrical connection will generate heat and lots of it, time to order light switches methinks

I jump started a van, thats what started my breaker down the failure path, it tripped out, I reset it then it took maybe a couple of weeks before it tripped again then maybe a couple of weeks before it failed totally, I broke it open to see and wow what a POS, terminals burnt and making a poor connection causing heat which caused the breaker to trip which caused more burning which caused more heat....... vicious circle once that point was reached

I had a 150 amp breaker but it failed 60 miles from home, once the contacts get burnt it generates heat which trips the breaker, I had to put both cables onto one stud to get home I fitted a fuse and keep 3 spares in the truck But the breaker could have been cheap MIC rubbish