wil440

Mine picks up from the sender but I don't have a hot fuel problem.... far from it

I changed my overflow banjo while checking fuel pressure as I'm at around 6psi at idle and 20psi at 2k plus. I have a mechanical lift pump and changed it to try and get my Lower rpm pressure up some. Made no difference and in the end I checked flow back to tank and there is a huge amount going back even at idle so being as my fuel temperature never gets over 115f or so I gave up and left it as it. They are not expensive, well here in the UK they aren't so changed it and see think I paid £11 collected from a local fuel shop

Here https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/ Look at P0216

Have you cleared the previous codes that were logged ? if not get them gone, nothing worse than trying to fault find old codes and eventually realising you have wasted days on nothing If the truck has recent codes they won't clear or will come straight back anyway so your left with the "real" culprits Once you have codes from right now either post them here or go to the codes pages on here and go through the diagnosis for the codes (I'd link them but I'm useless at finding stuff) Me personally I wouldn't fit anything new until you get codes as thats just going to be a waste of time and money Use a good scanner preferrably one that can read all live data for further diagnosis after you get codes, or if no codes live data is good, you should be able to see timing to see if the pump keyway is good, LData will also show all sensors and what they are saying If the injection pump is bad get your money back and use @dieselautopower but if you did get it from those guys you will be fine anyway Here's another tip..... when you get a good scanner start again from scratch as if you have never seen the truck before in your life, the amount of times I see people following a certain diagnosis path based on what they did before is unreal, "before " didn't fix it so start again

My fuel temps never go higher than 105 to 107F ish give or take and mostly it's below 100f, yes here in the UK we don't see silly temperatures normally except for this year I never let my fuel level go below 1/2 tank and it is usually over 3/4 My fuel return is back to the basket but I have a mechanical lift pump driven off of the crank and this sends some serious fuel volume back to tank at all times, my fuel filter is a Caterpillar item bolted to the intake manifold where the stock filter is but it is on insulating bushes The biggest thing to help keep fuel temps low is a good return flow back to tank, yes after travelling miles especially in hot ambient air fuel temps will creep up due to the fuel having to remove heat from the VP fuel pump and not being able to shed heat easily at the tank in high ambient temps. I have made a tube and stub to fit into the fuel filler neck hose all ready to go but my fuel temps never go high enough to warrant me fitting it

About 3 weeks ago here in the UK the temp record was smashed in Conisby Lincolnshire at 40.3c or 104.54f The UK has never been over 40C EVER, highest before was 39.3C I think, it built up over a week or so and for JUST 2 days it was horrible UK weather in the summer is usually in the mid to high twenties We are due for more this week but not quite so hot

I took a look at Rockauto, Vin number D is up to 98 and Vin number 6 is 98 to 2010, this is the bit I couldn't remember I wonder if the one you got from Rockauto had just been misboxed as in a 12v thermo in a 24v box What about ordering one for say a 2008 or thereabouts if as Rock says on some thermos the correct 24v goes from 1998.5 to 2010 Also if you check the fitment on the Mopar thermo.... part number 52028185AC this is listed for 1997 to 2003, I'd say you would be able to cross reference this number in the parts lists on this very site And to answer your question about a thermo sticking... yes possible, way to test is in a pan of water bringing it up to the thermos opening temp and see if it opens gradually or snaps open way over where it should do, thermometer would be handy too

Speedi sleeves were available through Cummins over 30 years ago for the big engines as in NTA's and the KTA's TBH i've never had a problem with a Cummins dry seal, one thing to look at is IF the seal bore has no stop shoulder then consider setting the seal at a very slightly different depth to what it was when it worn the groove, either further in or further out, only needs to be a 32nd and it's sitting on no groove, to do this you will need GOOD access to the seal, prefferably a made to measure seal driver/drift and a micrometer to measure depth AND patience, thing is a crank on a NTA or KTA is house purchase price so worth taking the time. Then there is Speedi Sleeves, what happens here is a brand spanking new seal path is pushed onto the crank using the dampner bolt/bolts, the speedi seal then is the sleeves thickness bigger, easy to instal and again never had a problem, but good access is key with big dump trucks, loading shovels, dozers etc usually needing radiator packs removed to get in there but again cost of cranks means it doesn't matter. If you haven't got good access and cannot see and measure what you are doing then results won't be good

If you put in 98 as your year on Rockauto then you are going to get a right pile of incorrect results coming up, just put 99 problem solved, right now I have had nothing incorrect for my 98.5 using 99 as the year, I ordered a new thermostat last year on 99 and it was correct, problem is Rockauto doesn't see 1/2 years BUT on 1998 year they do list 2 different diesels, can't remember the actual words used but there is 2, 99 year is better as just one

Pretty sure the others were chevy stuff

Me neither but I guess the day job (nuclear engineer) gives away his skill, he'd be retired from nuke stuff now I'd guess

I love the V twin Honda 100 made out of a Honda 50 single, the 4 cylinder kawasaki KH 2 stroke and the Z1 6 cylinder. I watched him do a asphalt hill climb on the flying millyard, sure it's 5litre

Been watching a program here called junk and disorderly where 3 guys buy and sell automotive stuff to try to get enough money to buy an old Buick (i think) Anyway one of the 3 Allen Millyard has built some seriously cool bikes for 1 how about a 6 cylinder kawasaki Z900 ! also the Flying Millyard and He's fitted a Viper V10 into a motorcycle.... 200mph. He's a Nuke engineer and a rocket scientist, one clever guy Take a look here https://www.bing.com/search?q=allen+millyard&cvid=701adf08318142b5861069bd6f8912e3&aqs=edge.0.0l9.5767j0j9&FORM=ANAB01&PC=U531

I know what you mean, while I'm waiting for the engine to be done the bike lift makes a nice work bench, bit low but pull up a seat and all is good Nice bike BTW

yes definetly Pirate Jack's and not some MIC bad copy, well saying that I found a MIUSA "small" seal kit first off of ebay.com but while I was waiting for it to arrive I was pointed to PJ's and saw he does a "full" kit so I also ordered that too, being in the UK and using my truck for work truck in bits and no parts is not an option so I always make sure I have everything I need then some just in case. Also be aware there are plenty selling on ebay.com stating MIUSA, I messaged and asked and a lot weren't I just unbolted the master cylinder and left it hanging and did not reseal it, the Hydroboost is easy to reseal and on my truck I didn't have to cut the rod as some years you do and some years you don't, now mine is 1998 first of the 24v so If I didn't need to cut the rod and yours is 2002 I'd guess you might have to cut the rod, PJ's instructions tell what needs to be done I did use PJ's full kit but be aware the kit covers more models or Hydro variances then just your truck so you will have parts left and you "could" fit the wrong parts if not careful Just remove it and when disassembling lay it all out on a clean surface in order and match the new parts to old first..... IIRC there are some seal differences but the instructions are good so no bother I'll rephrase what I said earlier, now I've sat and thought I can't be 100% sure I didn't have to cut my rod, memory not as sharp as it was !

Hope everything goes well for you I am assuming a Meniscus is a cartilage/tendon ? If so that's the reason for the long time recovery, very slow to heal about 10 years ago I was digging a trench with a pickaxe for sewer pipes, too narrow for my mini ex after quiet a while I put the pick down and noticed my 2nd finger in right hand the tip joint was bent a full 90degrees but the next joint was straight, there is now way you can actually bend a finger like that as to clasp both joints move. What had happened was the tendon that straightens the finger had snapped just past the last joint near the finger nail, I never felt a thing and it didn't hurt at all but my finger was dead straight until the last joint then that was 90degrees, I left it a few days then went to a walk in centre Nurse explained that it usually snaps when the fingers are stubbed against something but I hadn't done anything like that She said it needed to be kept straight for at least 4 months and that usually it does not reattach, she didn't have a finger splint big enough for my finger so just taped 2 plastic spoons to my finger and said good luck but don't expect it to heal. Once home I made a splint out of a Cat serial number plate off of a Cat 428 and that stayed on my finger for 4 months, was really difficult working with one finger dead straight. 4 years later I'm back at the walk in centre for something else, same nurse..... took one look at me and first thing she said was hows the finger, she couldn't believe how well it had healed, wouldn't know it was ever damaged. I was lucky as I could carry on working while keeping it straight and imobile I hope you are allowed to take it easy to allow time for it to heal good

Picked up a Made in England motorcycle/ small plant table today off of Ebay, bought it a few weeks ago but the seller had to go the Scotland for his daughters wedding and I had covid, no rush for it anyway. Had to move some stuff around in my tiny workshop where it is going, I have a bigger workshop but the small one is heated by my biomass boiler and when the boiler is on it's toasty @IBMobile can you turn the picture the right way up please The picture is right on my laptop and on my phone, I even saved it upside down but it still came out upside down @Mopar1973Man what's causing this ?????

Thing is while arthritus is painful it's not life threathening unlike some things so that's a blessing. Seems both the USA and the UK are sat right in the same boat. Get this there was a documentary on TV thursday night about our NHS. National Health Service, which is free at point of use, we pay a tax called National Insurance for it our whole working lives. Our NHS is on it's knees and this is what the documentary was about, reporter interviewed a 93 year old woman that had called an ambulance and had spent THREE DAYS on a trolley in a corridor in A&E, there must have been 30 to 40 people easy on trolleys in this corridor with maybe 30 ambulances outside waiting to offload patients, that's 30 vehicles that cannot attend phone calls for emergencies, this was just at one hospital. They played a phone call from a woman that had called regarding her husband who had 2 days earlier been sent home after major heart surgery, he'd collasped, no ambulance available even though it should have been max 18 minute wait, they waited hours and he died while his wife was on the phone begging for an ambulance.

get a pair of mole grips or a wrench that fits the actuator lever and see if it moves, there is a spring in the canister so will take a little force to move , or if there is a little play in the actuator clevis pin you just might be able to see if it's free by wriggling it

I've done the same on Cat 775 dumptrucks, but you aint supporting that engine on an engine crane, dropped the sump to change oil pump, was a major Cat rework as the oil pumps were garbage

The pivot where it passes through the cast exhaust tube seizes, the shaft that the actuator rod connects to I have 2 here one is absolutly solid, one is brand new but no canistor

Yes very sad, I did my apprenticeship HGV which is diesel trucks, had to do a car module first then 4 years college block release just on big trucks, early 80's about 3 or 4 years after my apprenticeship had finished I swapped to heavy mobile plant and ran the plant workshop at the quarry in the village I live in from about 24 years old, it was the same company that I did my apprenticeship with so swapping was just a different workshop We ran a Cat 980C loading shovel on the face ( granite quarry) alongside first a Poclain excavator then 2 Liebherrs which were 974's but not both at the same time The 980c was a 63X serial number prefix 1982, all steel even inside the cab, what was plastic in the cab was the old light brown stuff and never broke as it weighed a ton, that thing did 39000 hrs at the face in a granite quarry up until the quarry shut in about 93/94, we rebuilt the engine 3 times, trans about the same and rebuilt maybe 4 or 5 grenaded front final drives which were the old proper hub reduction drives, when the quarry shut it went to Africa to carry on working. You'd be luck to get 10khrs out of the rubbish they build now... cheap junk sold for max money, on loading shovels the H was about the turning point, H was simple and pretty strong

That's the giveaway they are now assemblers and pretty bad at that too

Cat pretty much make nothing but frames, and the companies that they own that makes some stuff I wouldn't want to say on here how they end up buying said companies They certainly don't make gaskets that's for sure

Rockauto lists 4 from 3 manufacturers SKP, Cardone and Dorman, might be cheaper to just bolt a new /reman one on than rebuilding guess it depends on the hourly rate I rebuilt mine as shipping to the UK, duty and vat more than offset the time it took