wil440

Not many V10s here, that just might have something to do with petrol at over £6 a gallon. Saw a nice 3500 4x4 on ebay a few months ago but if I'd have bought that i'd be trailer living by now

Just started to do this in the UK maybe 3 or 4 years, my best guess is either the installer gets a sum afterwards as like commission or they make enough on the fitting as don't forget they haven't had to shell out for stock sitting for months..... might work for them as tyres have a shelf life which I didn't know until I got new this weekend I didn't do this as I found a good 4x4/custom/large tyre backstreet shop just 10 miles away and the owner has American vehicles so no need to deal with the mainstream

Thanks....It's getting there.... a lot better now than when I got it.... I'm resisting more power like the plague... been on that slippery slope with Mopar stuff before... maybe just a little for towing purposes Just need a 98 V10 now, 4x4 of course then I got all I need I just thought about the above I will add 50's job rated, 40's dodge weapons carrier, Christine, any 60's Mopar C body, any B body but I ain't got enough $ oh and 2 others that aren't Mopar..... 40's GMC 6x6 and a Harley WLA and I'm truelly done

I'd say 305/70/16 is about the biggest tyre that fits with no rubbing and yes you're right it looks just big enough, you can just see on the rims where the PO had to use stick on weight to balance with the BFG's, rear one had 1/2lb Toyos balanced up nicely but the tyre has a rim protector edge, it was a problem to get the clip on weights to work but guy got them on after a struggle

We don't really have Craigslist in the UK it is here but very sporadic and you'd never find a 80 on there and shipping from the states is out Just had Toyo Open Country MT tyres fitted yesterday at 305/70/16, load range 118P which is as near as 3000lbs per tyre sustained at 99mph, the sidewall on this tyre is very stiff..... I checked the Cooper STT Pro and while the load range is higher the sidwall was softer and downrated to 68mph so Toyo it was. What I was surprised with is the toyo has full load at 50psi, the BFG's I took off are a lot higher than that but the sidewall is very soft, the Cooper I looked at was higher PSI but slightly softer wall maybe in the middle of the three, happy with the tyres, truck looks good nothing rubs and speedo/Sat Nav is the same Next is Quad, fuel, Gauges, trans, front axle dis (very soon) not necessarily in that order and a mountain more

That spring makes sure the cable follows what the shoes/ PB pedal are doing to keep the cable tight.... not bowstring tight but just nice. Doesn't look broken to me in picture. It just sits between PB lever and cable outer/backplate so its been discontinued cos any compression spring same length and resistance will work as it just needs to push lever /cable back to off position

Still only a hope really as it seems like every day some polititian or businessman/woman is trying to stop it, one woman will take to court whatever Prime minister tries to leave with No Deal, today vote in parliment to stop PM suspending parliment to go no deal, think this was last done in the 1600's and the king lost his head..... quite serious here at the moment, I hope we leave N D but I won't be betting on it it's only the majority vote so it doesn't matter, shame the UK isn't a Democracy Nigel Farage started a new UK independence party for the EU elections which we had to participate in due to us not leaving in march, this party was 6 weeks old and won over 100 seats in the eu parliment, our 2 main parties won NONE, there was only a handful of others, mainly Greens, still our 2 main parties will not listen to the will of the people, still some try and stop it Thanks thats usefull to know, so if I went to 5000lbs guess on the rear loaded, fuelled, 2 people and tongue weight I could come down a load range to 3250 to 3500 onstead of 3750

Thing is here a American pickup is a minority so while I have lots of choice for a landrover or EU/Japanese there is a lot less for higher load rating tyres, also we're just a tiny island compared to USA so consumer choice will be lower. As for the K speed rated Cooper I'm baffled on that as it's rated much higher in USA than K and according to the tyre shop owner it has only been K from this year AND is still the same tyre BUT we are still in the EU so it's highly possible that some lazy jobsworth has got the Cooper downrated for EU...... roll on November the 1st when hopefully fingers crossed we kick that rubbish into touch and leave. I did pick 285 75 and 305 70 for a little more choice and as you say close enough on size... I just want the highest load rating I can find in a good mud ish tyre I have looked at Hankook but in 285 or 305. 245 is too narrow for my rims and a rim swap here is mortgage the house so deffo not and I like at least 285 And made in China isn't an option I rather wrap rags around the rims I'm going to drop the truck on the weighbridge at work hopefully before Saturday afternoon and see what the weights are then add for nose weight of trailer which I will guess over then see what load rating I could use

I'm off to get 4 tyres this weekend as the BFG muds are cracking, truck has 285/75/16 now but what I'm after is a set of E rated which here is 126/123, I have the choice of 2 tyres here in the UK... Cooper STT Pro and something else which I can't remember, Coopers look ok but they have been downrated to 68mph or speed range K Is this just here or what ? I did check and sellers in the USA are still listing this tyre as Q 99 mph, 68 is low and insurance would not pay if the truck was in an accident, there seems to be more remolds than new at E rated load here. Will be staying with 285 75 or 305 70, my speedo is out with the 285's that are on it but it doesn't matter to me one bit as I have a big truck sat nav which warns me way before I'm at my trucks speed limits and I'm always driving Miss Daisy anyway cos I'm too old, trucks too big, roads too small, well the ones I drive on mostly are

But I was told by guys on here when I was posting about mine that Dodge stopped using these reels and went to a buckle warning instead which would make it easy to use any seat as you can buy proximity sensors that will pick up the buckle being put into the latch

My 98.5 has seatbeltlocks built into the seatbelt reels, passenger side has 1 solenoid with 2 wires drivers side has 2 solenoids, one top and one bottom of the reel with a 4 wire plug, if the box under middle seat doesn't see 47ohm resistance certainly for the pass side it puts seatbelt light on on dash and disables abs, drivers side faults if one solenoid is not right, I've tried a 47ohm resistor in pass side and the warning light goes out but it's not really a solution as the resistor gets way too hot. A different solenoid wired in under the seat might work as it might not get as hot, if original solenoids burn out seatbelt won't come out without stripping the cover off and removing it off of the reel. I had to deal with both my seats as no warning lights on dash allowed here. If I lived in the USA i'd be buying every last known good reel I could find

trailer is 8', sticker on it says Heidis RV superstore between Barrie and Ormarillo on HWY11 (might have spelt the second town /city wrong) yes it's the full trailer not the cardboard rubbish that the EU/Jap trucks can tow. Truck seems to be on it as far as weight/tongue weight no problem, brakes are ok, trailer brakes on there own are good, just don't need a housing full of bits I have had my 3500 since around 2004, and towed some but maybe 6 to 8k ( it's not quite accurate cos I'm forced to think in Tonnes which is KG) 2.2lbs to the kilo so 1 tonne (note not 1 ton this is different and what we used to measure in) is 2200lb ish Just can't decide what to do with my 3500 it has lots of parts that work on the 2500 but just not quite enough, easy rear end would have swayed it, bed is for the bin, doors need work and the paint is .... well dropping off the sheet metal for wanting a better explaination It comes down to front end, tranfer case (maybe) and some electrics

On thermostats..... I fitted a 190 as the heater was pants, I then got some Cat cooling system cleaner and ran that as per the instructions, after towing weight and a good grade I'm going back to the 180 I took out as the cat cooling sys cleaner did the job 180 looked like original

Thats not an option really here as shipping would be $$$$, I've just fitted a wheel cylinder and freed a rear brake off on the 3500 today as it had rooted to the spot,at least it moves now, I should have dropped a wheel off of my 2500 on it see if it fit and how much further out it would be. Here's how I see it from the information so far, rear is a straight bolt in, springs are the same (I checked) but the 80 is wider by an amount that I don't know yet, this will mean using the dually spacers for the front, i've just been and took a look at the dually front end and the wheel mating face isn't too far from the fender edge give or take, the wheels on the 2500 have around a 4 inch offset out. Just found a statement on TDR that the 80 rear is 1 1/2" wider per side so went to look at both trucks and I'm sure the 80 will fit with the fender flares I have and I'm pretty sure it will be close enough to the front to not use the dually spacers, track will be off but not by much as the 2500 rears are well in the flares so it will look right except from the back. Or is this something I don't need to do.... my travel trailer is 9k, think it can be loaded with 2k so 11 all up and add the truck Has anyone with an auto grenaded a D70 driving normal, I'm just going to do the front disconnect so will have low 2

thats the info I'm looking for thanks I wouldn't want to use the dually bed as it's rough and really too wide here in the UK and I wouldn't use dually wheels, I see the difference in gvw using the wheels but again truck gets too wide, our parking spaces are shoebox size. I'll check width differences as in the actual D80 width under my 2500 as it has got fender flares but it's also got ally aftermarket wheels so offset I don't know yet

I missed this first time round.. interesting read.. 47k resistor now in the truck as I have a few of them for my heating boiler

I have a complete 5.9V8 3500 4x4 sat getting rougher by the day, is there any information on here about fitting the rear axle and springs to my 2500 4x4, same year just 2500 is diesel.... 3500 is petrol would the springs be too stiff ? 3500 has snowplough option from the factory, I'm assuming this is front springs but is the front springs on the diesel stiffer ?? Is it easy to use both axles ? does the dually bit unbolt IE the extensions on the front and the wider deal on the back ? will the bigger rear brakes be too much for a 2500 I'm thinking about parting the 3500 so would keep all sheet metal except maybe the bed so would keep maybe engine and trans maybe for a job rated I fancy doing if the 47re can be made to work without the trans ecm and use a smallblock intake and carb and ignition transfer case for the 2500 if it's the same both axles again for the 2500 but the question is more rear axle and springs, I did a search but there 300 odd pages

flick OD off and as best you can keep it in lockup.... built auto with lockup in 1st and 2nd to be fair it did take a while for me to figure out how to use an auto and how it all works out grades is OD off which will drop it to 3rd locked then 3rd convertor, then 2nd convertor and 1st convertor, VB mod gets 2 more gears as in 2nd locked and 1st locked.... thats my thinking ... could be wrong Drive it like you stole it and all works out good

I have pretty much the same truck and to be fair I was looking at converting to manual mainly down to what i'd read here and elsewhere but 2 weekends ago I got to see what a bone stock 47RE does when faced with a absolute stupid 2 mile tiny road out of a valley, by the time I realised what TF there was no way back, 30ft trailer at 9k, now 9k is not too much for you guys but the rear tyres were howling spinning for at least 200 yards in the middle of the 2 miles it was that steep, what did I do..... press one pedal and leave it be, trans temp topped at 204 and it was flat out pedal on the mat in 1st gear for nearly 2 miles, oil is crystal clear but I'm going to change it anyway. How I figure it by the time I've got the parts together to go manual the cost is the same as building my auto to pull houses down, probably take no notice of me as I'm in the uk and a manual is £2k plus shipping just for the box nothing else Just my take on it

surely with the AD165 bump the starter so the pump runs, turn the ignition off and then try to start it, if the fuel is running back (air leak into the fuel system) then it will start with no or less cranking, depends how bad the leak is as to how long the transfer pump has to run to build prime, and leak in this instance is a leak of air INTO the fuel lines and as M73M has said on another thread not a leak of fuel out of the lines...... this will only happen when you get to crank for minutes not a few seconds for me if everything on the outside looked ok and was nice and tight nothing chaffed etc I'd be sending an engine oil sample off to the lab to check for fuel in oil but this is easy for me due to working on Cat heavy plant but anyone can walk into a Cat dealer and buy any amount of sample kits from 1 upwards and get the results. Parts per million is what comes back for any oil as well as coolant

on another note there is no clutch it is all silicon fluid and from my apprenticeship 41 years ago I'm sure as it gets hotter it gets thicker so it drives, cools down it gets thinner so slips the coil just opens a orifice to let the fluid to the outer part of the housing to increase torque drive I think Right off the bat I'll say I would not drive anything other than Mopar so thats a given but as far as OEM superior the starter will be Cummins and not Dodge and the fan clutch has never had any employee of Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler anywhere near it's creation and I'm 3000miles minimum away from Rockauto, Orielleys and whoever and I read this forum from front to back because while you guys may be in the middle of nowhere when it stops and it will, add 3000 miles to that and thats where I am, I just paid £50 posted for a grid solenoid to do the IBM mod, just seems odd to me that this forum is mostly about binning out the OEM, just a discussion mate thats all but I'm terrified of oem where I am

I have to disagree with the OEM statement sorry.... and here's why In 2010 I started work for Caterpillar at the factory in the UK that built the backhoe loader, after I'd been there a few months the site in the UK actually took over all production of backhoes and produced everything from the 450's sent mainly to NJ and all of the other models sent around the world, 2 distribution centres in the USA 1 at Waco and 1 in Clayton, I spent a month at the Waco one but thats another story, and distribution all over the world. Caterpillar actually make nothing but frames, they source EVERY single thing they use other than frames and this is over all models not just backhoes, pick up a cat part..... they are that thick they state where it's made and by who.. a lot is EU and there is a lot more but it's irrelavant, now Cat took on this Japanese Kiasan crap and I used to know what it meant but It's that important and works that well I forgot what it means but most manufacturers that use assembly lines use this, all of the car industry for sure, so the manufacturer does the design of every last item/ nut/bolt/washer/screw and figures out how IT will be assembled then IT will go to pre production which means something like 20 will go down the line and be built, this may take 2 weeks, there will be several more pre prod trials, then IT goes to production and one is off every >>>>>> it was 6 minutes for backhoe. Back in this paragraph I refered to manufacturer designing each part, they then just farm it out with a stipulation on the specs, now in the car industry the manufacturer here at least is protected from copywrite for a period of time, I don't know about the USA, when the time is up every man and his dog can make whatever as long as it passes tests, It's DOT here, TUV in germany and from what I remember the USA is harder than both as I did import a Nissan skyline R32 into the USA about 10 years ago and while I did get it in it did got to somewhere where no one would be bothered to check what it was and it was down to the seat fixings not being deemed good enough among other stuff. I'm rambling, but now I'd say the parts sold for these trucks COULD be any old tat from anywhere with no specs adhered to and the "anywhere" is easy to figure out without me saying it...... sub standard junk.... the UK is just as bad for buying "anywhere" crap..... comes down to it..... 20 yr old truck, pay your money and take your choice but there would be as good as OEM somewhere it's just finding it. For instance Snap On do a Gas (whats gas as in a gas and not petrol to you guys.. butane ?) portable soldering iron..... damn nice tool, made in Ireland by Portasol, doesn't come in a red box it's a grey box, same iron 1/2 price

To be honest I couldn't decide which way cooling or heat conductivity to the silicon fluid so no comment from me, but as the whole thing needs to see what temperature the air coming through the rad is at I'd eerr on the side of heat to the fluid BUT then the coil also does that, I'm only the supervisor of a heavy mobile plant workshop that does this for a living so what do I know but to be fair the stuff I work on does gallons to the mile and it's all direct driven or hydraulic and I've always gone by the theory as when the fan eats the rad it's cream crackered

I'd say temps will go up when stopped and idling as fan shouldn't be locked at 190 should it ?? and fan revolutions won't be a lot even locked, are you sure the original fan they took off wasn't locked and being driven all the time, also has your truck got the shroud fitted ??

Over here you do it yourself everywhere, might just get the very small stations out the back of beyond still filling for you but I've not seen one in years, my Mum worked at the village station where we lived for 30 yrs and a good portion of that time pumping fuel.... thing is Benzine in petrol causes a type of cancer which my mum got.... so this probably has something to do with own filling here.. better someone pumps a little than every minute of every working day.