wil440

is the taper pulled in nice and tight at the frame end, was the bolt ok with no wear at the axle end ? are the tyres central to the body or is the sway bar moving in it's mounts

Not anymore we have just had 5 years or so of really painful cuts to all services, police, fire, health service, local councils, tax rates haven't gone up just services have got worse

Just got around to doing water pump, belt and thermostat. I ordered a Mopar thermostat 5202 8185AC from Rockauto 195 degree, turns out it's not right, outer circumference is too small at 2 3/32nd versus 2 1/4 so 5/32nd too small, gasket sits in the groove instead of around the thermostat and no jiggle pin, it's in, sealed and working ok but took ages to bleed, now got to find the right one..... wrong parts test my patience due to the cost and the time it takes to get stuff

pretty much the same then, I'll watch the trans rebuild as mine will be the same chocolate internals

Vat is Value Added Tax, I remember it at 15%, then 17.5%, it's now at 20% and most everything has it added onto cost, books,childrens clothes and few other items don't, vehicle fuel has it, house fuel is 5% When importing here's how it works, lets say something costs $100 and lets say the pound is the same as dollar for ease so item is 100, shipping is 50, total 150, there will then be import duty on the 100 and this varies on the item/items being imported, lets say import duty totals 20 so the total now is 170, then there is VAT on the whole lot at 20% so the total then becomes 204 for a original cost of 100. We therefore pay 20% on the goods, 20% on the shipping, and 20% on the import duty which is a tax anyway, probably the only country in the world that pays a tax on a tax, oh I forgot most shippers charge a customs clearance fee which we pay 20% on I'm at J23 M1, 98 25004X4 QCSB cummins and a 98 3500 4X4 QCLB 5.9V8, Vehicle tax before 2001 is flat rate at £230 ish after 2001 it's on emissions, new 5litre mustang is £2k first year, both mine trucks are £230, anything 40 year old is road tax free, really tempted to get an old dodge truck

But what makes it worse is the vat etc on the shipping

On the shipping it's a shame more companies don't list on ebay as the global shipping program is so cheap it's unreal, I sent a box maybe 24"x18"x12 containing a complete blade levelling kit for a dozer/grader must have weighed 40 to 50lbs for £25 to Texas, It was collected from me and then sent to a site about 40 miles from me then off to texas, took about a week, then I had a radio antenna sent this way and the cost was $100 but USPS... GSP via ebay is a no brainer

Low fuel pressure usually causes blue smoke in diesels. If cylinders aren't charged correctly and don't fire and make good cylinder pressure then piston is on it's way down by inertia creating a vacuum this vacuum sucks oil in creating smoke. Also cylinder pressure make a better seal on top rings , We have a kleeman crusher/screen at work. Scania diesel. Primary fuel filter blocks it looks like there's pistons missing it smokes that bad

I took the plunge and bought a Modis from the Snap On guy, brand new with 18.4 software, connected it to the truck to get used to it and up comes P1693, It has a seatbelt warning light on dash so this has to be why it has a 1693, no other codes so when I get time I'll check out the seatbelt system and find out what is the fault. Also includes all US content so win win. Just not the SCTM LOL Also connected it to my work van, 2016 Ford transit, can do a lot more with that than the ram, just working on a webpage now to advertise plugins

One i've got coming is 195 but the one that's in it seems low or stuck. It's seized in so couldn't check it

Now there's a thought, what outside temperatures ?

Too right. Quite a few years ago the deputy prime minister at the time in the uk Prescott was his last name started preaching about vehicles in and around London and conjestion and pollution and that "we" should look to cut the number of cars on the road and the size.... this tool had 2 not 1 but 2 V12 Jaguars paid for by the tax payer to ferry him everywhere, he'd travel by train then one of his Jags would transport him the last bit...... 300yards was the smallest journey once, thing is his car had done the same journey as the train but without him just his driver LOL I may have to have 2, got a 195 on the way so may need a 180 also think that would be too high for here in the winter, although they say we are in for a bad one

It can be a challenge thats for sure, like the water pump... tell tale hole is a little damp so get one on its way, it may never leak or it may puke tomorrow, fan belt.... nothing wrong with it just get one anyway. The worrying item is the fuel pump if that decided not to play then that would be bad especially as vehicle recovery here as in RAC or AA or the recovery I have on my insurance, while they will sell you a policy they really aren't equiped to stick a ram on a tow truck or flatbed. I do know a good fuel shop though I have owned american vehicles for closer to 30 years than 20 and I guess the interest started when I was a boy, I don't drive anything else but one of the 2 rams I've got, it's not patience, it's not being seen dead conforming in a EU/Jap rotbox, my wife has a brand new Nissan SUV, I detest the thing

Thanks for the info, I'd bet it has the wrong thermostat in it as over here most are listed as 76c or 82c which converted is not 190f I need a 87c which is 190f. Just ordered a dodge thermostat, gates belt and a water pump from rockauto for $120 shipped to the uk including vat @20% there will be a little more to pay when it all arrives but not much, genuine thermostat was $23, it will be cummins in a mopar box no doubt or could be chinese in a mopar box we'll see, all paid using paypal and shipped to the door

Another thermo question... Just flushed the cooling system today as truck takes a while to warm up, used Cat cooling system flushing liquid but I doubt I'd got enough to do the job properly so I'll have to get more and do it again but it has softened deposits I can see in the rad, backflushed heater core and engine/rad with water after draining the cleaner, took a look at the thermostat which was closed (cold engine) BUT tried to remove it and decided the only way it's coming out is scrap so I left it where it was for now so I can't tell what opening temp is fitted so whats the best to use ? truck is 98.5 2500 4x4 short quad. I think looking at the colour of the coolant it was volvo earthmover 50/50 which is ok but thats been flushed and refilled with Cat ELC 50/50 I just need a gallon of Cat ELC top up which is not diluted to bring the mix to 50/50. Also going to get a new water pump as the tell tale looked a little too damp for my liking

with the thermostat removed it won't get warm at all

Mine is a 98.5 and the cover isn't updated as I can see the whole circumference of the dowel coming through the case by about 10 thou. Now i've looked at the picture again it almost looks like there is a part of the case broke to the lower right of the bolt, has to be a trick of the light or camera as I've had my fingers around that while testing the shape of the tab and also fitting it and the bolt..... ahhh I know what that is.... I used brake cleaner to clean the area off so the case is there it's just black PHEW !! Here's a picture of the best way to hold a crank pulley when either undoing or torquing up bolts, yes it looks brutal but it's not and never damages the damper, when I worked for Finning the Cat dealer here in UK I got sent to a customer at a power station who was doing a front oil seal on a D10 dozer, they had got to the point of not being able to remove the damper bolts as the crank was turning, I got sent to take the starter off .... yeah right, 1/2 hr later damper on the floor

Come to it this morning, theory didn't work as expected on the wear sleeve but at least it went on a bit before it's temp dropped, damper bolts were too short to use the pulley straight away so made a plate out of 3/16th steel to pull it on up to the spigot then used the pulley, I've fitted a lot of Cummins crank wear sleeves on NTA 855s and despite cummins saying NOT to heat we just used to use a torch and indirect heat then slip em straight on using leather gloves as they were a lot bigger the start on the crank could get out of shape very quick, this on the other hand started easily with just heat off of the top of our boiler and pulled on easily. Now to put it all back together, the hole in the tab is where the throttle return spring on the 440 would have gone

My truck does something similar, almost like driving over very fine washboards so fine that if it was washboards the tyres wouldn't be able to follow them almost, this only happens if I make it happen, trans has just gone into lockup but the road conditions are loading the engine a little (read hill or slower vehicle) if I stomp it it drops out of lockup and everything is normal, if I feather the throttle in close to the limit of dropping out of LU it will shake a bit, if I back off a little and accelerate slower it's fine, once it gets over the MPH/RPM area of LU it's fine, I'd put it down to too high a load too low rpm's and just drive accordingly, I probably need to check where it actually drops out and make sure thats right. I don't load my truck in lockup at all, I just manually drop it out

I've had this truck for just under a year and done a lot of repairs that the previous owner just didn't bother to do, as in both front brakes siezed so 1 new caliper as I'd got it in the garage, 1 new piston, seal kit and a slider kit, back brakes checked and freed off, ctm changed due to door locks not working, window runners fixed, Cat fuel filter complete fitted as previous plank decided it didn't need a filter and threw the whole lot away, luckily he only did about 100 miles in it afterwards, it had about 9 months MOT on it and our MOTs are strict usually so I'm guessing a mate did it. Anyway truck runs nice now, still more to do but I'd been thinking and reading and decided to check the timing cover dowel pin due to a little oil around the area and not wanting a grenade under the front, so holiday today and tomorrow, 3 hours in I'm looking at the pin which is all nice and tight in the case, the bolt next to it is not so happy and while not hanging out it was not tight by any means, so out it comes and the locktite has failed due to engine oil, I remembered I had a Lokar throttle cable return spring bracket off of a 440 somewhere so dug it out and minimal trimming and theres the retainer for the pin, all cleaned, locktite and torqued, new seal set in the cover to the right depth with sealant and the wear sleeve sat on top of our boiler doing a bit of expanding, hoping to slip it on tomorrow but if not will press it on using the pulley... seal from the USA $35 inc sleeve, landed here £70, UK customs are just great aren't they ! Next job in order... fuel lines then earths, then quad, then trans

That is exactly the same end results for gas musclecars but the reduction in "octane" took years from the late 60's and it never went back up, they ran terrible, ran hot and the stink was/is horrible, get some timing in the things and different cars, yes it needs a lot of information on the car as in weight/engine/torque convertor stall, rear end ratio etc to just figure out the load on the motor then you can figure out the static timing,curve and total timing. So thinking out loud... a tune on a 3500 longbed quadcab 4x4 wouldn't be the same as a tune for a 2500 shortbed single cab 2x4, (lets say they are both autos) but the same 2 trucks with manuals might be able to get more timing in, IIRC 60's early 70's Mopars liked about 20* ATDC for max rate of expansion which translated to max downward force to the top of the piston and more importantly everything is all done and burnt before the exhaust valve opens or as close to as a bit is ok as it scavenges the cylinder. As far as your magnum, thats the same design ish as a 60's 5.9 they wanted a max of 34* and as far as I know the combustion chamber is the same shape so either there's a compression ratio drop or an increase in cam duration (very unlikely) or the load is less or 91 octane over there is rebranded coke as 40* seems high, my magnum is stock at, is it 34 ? it has a keg gasket passing a little oil and thats about blowing the heads off under load, so parked waiting for me. AHH I wonder is the 40* checked with a timing light and no load ? If so I wonder if the M Perf PCM is backing it off just like the old vac can DOH !! of course it is

I'm thinking the same, nearly in a position to retire from Mobile Plant so a good light vehicle diagnostic kit and possibly earthmover/truck

I'm not a tuner far from it, a long time ago I was told a lot of information on how to cure the muscle car overheating problem using modern fuel and I did well out of it with a payment of course for the information... probably not as well as I could have done but I did help a lot of people out over here, reading this I just had a lightbulb moment is all, fuel is different for sure petrol v diesel but the basic design of the internal combustion engine doesn't change, there has been admittedly some variation mainly diesel or heavy oil on the starting procedure as in parrafin to start, hot bulb, precombustion chambers etc but crank, rods, heads, valves don't change I have no tuner so I can't experiment, can a quad change static injection timing like a distributor can on a petrol engine ? what static or at least idle timing does a 5.9 like.. as in the most before the rattle ( this is a guess as to what would happen), if it was petrol the check would be the highest static before it tries to kick back at the starter when starting hot ? and mopar needs a total of 34* total I would say find the highest static (hot) or idle timing it would take then max timing on EGT as if EGT is high then smoke will be too and MPG out the window, then sort the middle out on rattle and EGT whos got a quad for sale

I used to do a lot of ignition tuning on 60s/early 70s Mopar petrol/gas V8s roadrunners, chargers etc etc using a 50s sun distributor machine, has anyone figured out the crank angle for max power, max rate of burn, max force to the top of the piston for a cummins ? Thinking about and comparing it it's a bit more vague with a diesel as there is no spark to fire it all off so it would maybe come down to injection timing, ambient temp, intake temp, camshaft duration (same as petrol), compression (same as petrol) fuel volativity and cylinder head shape and design... so all the above contributes to the flame front travel and just at the right crank/conrod angle for max power. So larger injectors are getting the fuel in earlier so lets say it's all done at the ideal crank angle for max force then there's the MPG saving..... no point in injecting anything after a certain crank angle as It won't create effient power or burn properly and just create smoke, on applications of huge power (pulling) it wouldn't matter as mpg and black aren't considered. EGT's are high when unburnt fuel gets fired into the exhaust when the exhaust valve opens Or I just am talking rubbish ??

I've been looking at a Verus which to be fair was at a good price on the bay just up the road from me (well 40 miles... keep having to remind myself that most on here would class that as next door ) after a little looking around on tinternet it appears snap on no longer support the original verus with software, this appears to have stopped around 2016/17 AND the thing still used keys which I do have a fair amount of from owning a brick, looks like the same story from SO with diagnostic kit... buy this for $$$$££££ then in a few years we chop you right off..... buy this for $$$$£££££... groundhog day every few years. Now this really does pain me to ask but anyone have experience of Autel as in the maxis or other kit they sell, it pains me as I don't buy anything from *****a if I can help it but vehicle manufacturers don't play nice so why should I. Anything I do get if I jump will have to do all and as much as possible both US, EU and the rest as I figure there's a bit of £ in a plugin when some are charging £160 just to connect, land rover/range rover rubbish is one and to be fair to the poor guy that just can't afford to do dealer or garage, I've just helped a guy I work with who pays £500 per month child maintenance, earns minimum wage with a peugoet POS 1.1 ... charge.. nothing as he has nothing.