ddmk6

Ok. Your truck, do whatever you want. You might want to re-read your original comment though. I was merely trying to help you understand. If you understood more about pump design, you would know that some pumps can actually run dead headed without consequence....others can not. Some are designed to flow through a relief valve and return to sump where the heat dissipates prior to recirculation. This could go on forever but I'm done.

You were describing it going through a check valve and returning to tank. That's what I quoted and that's what I commented on.

This is excellent work @Tractorman. Every bit of it. As I mentioned previously, and you touched on here as well, deadheading is an entirely separate issue with its own set of problems. Those problems are wide ranging depending on pump design and application. A positive displacement pump obviously isn't going to survive deadheading lol. Really nice write up. The fuel will not heat up until its moving through the restriction (friction), i.e., check valve. It's not constantly recirculating through the pump and check, it's going into the tank where heat will dissipate. If anything you'll see the pressure difference and temp differences downstream of the check valve.

In this application (in my opinion) I think the 140 micron screen would be fine maybe even 100 microns. A 5 micron FILTER would not. I'm not sure what size it is but the Raptor pump has an inline screen inside the inlet fitting on the pump. I don't remember the mesh size off the top of my head, next time I clean it I'll take a look. I seem to remember it being pretty coarse, maybe even 200 mesh (don't quote me on that). The key here is that it is a screen and not a restricting filter. The only goal is to stop particles that will damage the pump.

You said the magic words there "large mesh" this is more of a strainer than a filter and there is a difference. It's purpose is to catch any large particulates. The pump should be designed to handle any normal sized particles and push them on through to the main fuel filtration. This main filter is where the particulate separation occurs. The fuel is being pushed through this filter instead of being sucked through. Makes a big difference. I appreciate the heads up. I'm not doubting you, I just can't find the actual law that says sumps are illegal. You read so many different things on different forums, I just like to confirm. The only law that I have seen so far is that it must be protected from damage. This was my original concern when I installed the sump. After all it is on the bottom of the tank. I'm considering building a skid plate for it.....considering....it's been on there for 5 years and I still haven't done it lol.

I'm just sharing what I have learned from working on pumps and compressors for over 35 years. Some of these pumps in excess of 1200 gpm. Your choice if you want to run a filter. Dead heading is an entirely different subject lol. I'm not familiar with this law regarding sumps and I haven't found it yet...https://www.law.cornell.edu/cfr/text/49/393.65 I'll keep looking. If your tank is weeping diesel....change the o-ring. Been running mine for 5 years with no issues. Thinking about installing another one in the back end of the tank for when I'm going uphill with a low level in the tank.

Or just do this and bypass the draw straw and all the other issues talked about on this thread. 3" hole saw and you're good to go..https://bdpshop.com/beans-diesel-bean-machine-multi-function-fuel-tank-sump-kit-p-n-00-280003/ Personally I wouldn't recommend a pre-filter for the lift pump. I've worked with industrial pumps and compressors for 35 years. Pre-filters can and will effect flow and possibly cause cavitation. Just my opinion but something to think about. The only "pre-filters" I've seen installed/designed by engineers are ones with a large mesh meant to stop things like 2 x 4's lol. Fine mesh strainers (on the suction side) almost always lead to pump failure. Just my opinion...

The pressure should be the same for the 100 and the 150. Don't get pressure confused with volume. If it was my nickel I would go 150 and never look back. The mounting kit and components are top shelf (and I'm picky). I'm super happy with the performance. Get a fuel pressure gauge and good snubbed set up. It got mine from genos garage. They have a mount for the gauge that sits on your steering column. Nice set up. With those components you shouldn't have any more fuel questions.

I went this route 4 years ago. I also put a sump connection in the fuel tank and bypassed the entire oem assembly in the tank. I run it through the factory filter with no issues. The whole thing frame mounts perfectly tucked up next to and I protected by, the t-case skid pan. At some point I may install the filter system remotely. Maybe under the hood or just somewhere that offers easy access and protection. Steady 14 psi and I'm somewhere (ballpark) around 600 hp.

As moparman said above o-rings shouldn't need additional sealant. You also need to be careful what you use to lubricate the o-ring during install. Even Vaseline will ruin or breakdown some o-rings. Depends what kind of service is in as to what should be used for lube. I worked on many industrial compressors and depending on what type of service, if you used to wrong o-ring lube they would fail within hours, in some cases immediately. Sometimes the lubricant reacts to the oil or gas as well.

I just put mine in 4 low. I had an ATS transmission built before I started adding more power. It's rock solid, just no low end.

I agree. I thought I had my smarty and comp sold a couple years ago then I was going to the quad. Didn't work out so I just run what I brung lol.

You already have the quadzilla so no sense spending money. Use what you have. I'm running an older unlimited Edge drag comp stacked with a smarty. Lots of power. I can run as much or as little smoke as I want lol. That combo really brought my truck to life. I've heard the quad is better though. If my stuff ever dies I will probably make the swap.

I had this same type of issue. I had taken my truck in to an oil change place because I was in a hurry. The Neanderthal broke the wire on the back of the alternator while changing the filter. Long story short...it took me awhile to find the hidden break.

At least yours looks to be a makeshift sensor leaking. When mine leaked back there it took a new head to fix it. Original was cracked.

That would be the one........nothing but lies and a con job. Had my money for over a month and was still lying to me.

Whatever you do.... Dont use "Little Power Shop" I just had to replace a cracked head. Bought one from that clown. He took my money and jerked me around for over a month. Finally canceled the order. I never did get a refund from that jerk. Credit card company gave me a credit and went after him.

I just installed a BD stainless manifold. I'm really happy with it. There is a noticeable difference in performance. My original manifold cracked out where I had installed the pyro probe years ago. Only had it on for a few months now but I like it.