BART

Just a REAL STUPID thought, don't laugh...How about the "clock spring" in the steering wheel? I am having a similar noise and it's coming from inside the truck in the steering column/steering wheel. I've heard about these springs and this may be in my future. Now I just need to learn how to fix it without popping the airbag. I only say this because NWingert said it "sounds like a spring winding up and popping".

My brother just bought a 2006 3rd Generation truck. Anything that he needs to watch out for? I know my "02 2nd Generation but the "newer" trucks are unfamiliar to me.

Turn up the radio or install and MBRP "straight through" muffler. Just kidding, the silicone spray may work well.

Did the Gould seal kit about two years ago...it lasted maybe a week then back to leaking. I'm thinking it'll be best to just put in a rebuilt pump and be done with it. I hate to have to repeat the same repair that didn't work the firs time. - - - Updated - - - Forgot to ask....does anyone have an opinion on where to get a REBUILT PUMP? I saw them on Goulds site for $359 but after having a failure with the seal kit I'm kind of skiddish. His might be good but I'm hoping for some options. Thanks.

I do have some wander in my '02 but found it much more pronounced using lower tire air pressures. I got some new tires and had an good alignment and set tire pressire at 60# minimum and found the "wander" to be much better. I think it's just inherent in these trucks..you gotta drive them and not just be "present" as they go down the road. I still have an "all-stock" front end but still have some "wander" particularily with my 4000# plus camper and boat on the back. Try upping your tire pressure and see if it helps. I think that having tire pressures at the "reccomended " level of something like 45psi is way too low for these trucks especially in the front end. There's lots of weight in the front end.Just my .02 worth.

I have a DiPricol mechanical gauge and had problems with the isolator, replace that with the needle valve set-up as decribed on this site. I still have the gauge dropping from about 15psi to ZERO and back up to 15. I've tried opening the valve more and closing it more with no change in the action of the gauge. You'd think that if the fuel pressure was truly dropping to zero the engine would let me know. Maybe it was the gauge all along and not the isolator?I'm going to replace the gauage and would like to install an electroinc unit to keep fuel out of the cab. I've seen there have been some problems with the electronics. Any suggestions on them and which seems to be best?Thanks.

Any opinions on the WIX Oil Filter? I saw the WIX 51607 listed on Rock Auto for $6.71 each in a case of 12. The Fleetguards are getting crazy $ even if I buy them by the half-dozen, but still worth it I figure. They also have FRAM's but I don't think I'll put any orange filters on MY truck.I know I've seen a chart showing which filters other than the Fleetguard to use but can't find it now...

I think I found the info on leaving the injectors loose until after the crossover tubes were in place on this site. GREAT advice. I hope I can get a few more mpg...diesel prices about got my truck parked except for fun use.

I do have a EGT Gauge and I have gotten in the habit of keeping an eye on it. Sometimes that gauge is about as active as the tachometer. Amazing how fast it can go up and also go down just as quickly. --- Update to the previous post... Hey...that was my 20th post so now I should be rated as a Standard Member!!!

I did put in the 275Rv injectors. Makes a difference even with my "mild" Quadzilla box. I don't notice any added smoke but do feel the hp and torque in the seat of the pants. This should make a difference while I have my camper on and boat in tow. A couple of added mpg's wouldn't hurt either. Also I've been reading about problems with leaking high pressure fuel lines from others here. So far (knock on wood ) there have been no leaks. I was real careful to keep the injectors loose while putting the cross-tubes in (with new o-ring seals) and after those were installed then torqued the injector hold-downs. Then torqued the fuel lines properly, at least those I coud get to with the torque wrench.So far it's been worth the time and expense. Thanks for checking.

Just a note of THANKS for the comments and help from everyone on this project. Got the injectors installed and valves adjusted, so far the truck runs like a champ and NO LEAKS . I did learn a bunch and still learning.

That's a nice truck but for $28+K... That's more than I paid for my 2002 in 2002 but then I have a "Plain Jane". Hope the new owners is happy. Nice rig either way.

Got the valves dajusted to 10/20. Most were good with no change. Now on to install the RV275 injectors. Thanks for the help.

THANK YOU BOTH. This was missed in the Valve Adjustment instructions and had me stumpped. Thanks to yo both.

I am going to adjust valves on my '02 and so far have the valve cover off, so far so good. Now I see that I need to move the engine to TDC which is noted on the pump gear housing. HELP...is this pump gear (with the indicator line) under the Crankcase Breather??? I have the hose off and can't seem to get the Crankcase Breather off if that's where the gear is located.Great pictures and help on the link here for adjusting valves but the part about the gear with the TDC mark was not shown. I have the Dodge Shop Manual on CD and it shows the breather as coming off....how do I get it off and if I do get it off, how do I get it back on securely? I hate to start prying on stuff and break it. Waiting for further instructions. Thanks.

Thanks to all. You've convinced me that these are my next "projects". I looked at my 2001 Shop Manual CD and the instructions given are Spot On. Good info for me. I'm not unsure of working on a Model A Ford but a CTD is another animal. Thanks again and now on with the work.

I know this has been hashed about before but I gotta ask. I'm thinking about a set of RV275's for my mostly stock '02 with 118,000 miles, see other stuff in my signature. I do haul a pretty heavy camper and tow a boat. The truck has a Quad ZXT+ chip thingy (pretty mild by most standards). My question is...amd I just wasting my $'s or will I see a REAL difference?Second question: Can I install them myself? I not a total idiot with a wrench and can follow directions. I was thinking it's also about time to adjust the valves too. Thanks to all for opinions.

Now for the cost of a few bottles of distilled water at Wally World...why not? I doubt that you'll need to buy more than that but you can always use the remainder for your BATTERIES. I have three Model A Fords and use distilled water in each one. I go through about 12 gallons/year in them. Figure out how much a radiator flush or replacement costs and you'll have your answer. A replacement radiator for a restored Model A costs in the range of $450 (lots more for your truck). How many gallons of distilled water can you buy at about $ .65/gallon? I say use distilled.My humble opinion.

Had exactly the same issues a few years ago while I was in Yukon Terr. about 2,500 miles from home hauling my big camper. It would smoke like a train (pure white) until it warmed up then BINGO, back to normal when it warmed up and ran like a champ. Drove it home like that and got info on the VP44 and the codes. Apparently the VP44 went "____ up" causing this. Replaced the pump (ouch) and all has been well...knock real hard on some wood. I had barely 100,000 on the clock and kind of anticipated a failure. I was on my 3rd lift pump in 50,000 miles and put on the FASS. Guess the bad pumps were what took out the VP44 before I got the FASS in place. This was my experience and I hope yours is something much cheaper to repair.

Tank is full. I usually keep it over 3/4 full at all times. This way it's cheaper when I fill it up...:broke:Still a mystery.....Thanks for your $0.02. Any other thoughts?

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Thanks to all for the help. I have dumped the isolator and plumbed in a needle valve as described above. The valve was installed in the former place of the isolator which is at the end of the rubber grease gun hose which is attaced to the downstream side of the stock fuel filter housing. I have a FASS and am getting 15 psi at idle and down to 12 or 13 psi when I push on the "go pedal" that is pretty much as usual.Now for the question: I have noticed that the fuel pressure gauge will all of a sudden drop to ZERO for just a moment and then back up to 15 psi while running at say 60 mph. I also noticed that the needle tends to drop if I get on the throttle and then back off quickly...then it will drop. Sometimes it will drop to ZERO while just running at 60mph on level ground in 5th gear. The engine runs perfectly and doesn't miss a beat. This up and down thing has me wondering and also worried if you know what I mean.Could the gauge just be bad or dying or could there be air bubble(s) in the fuel line running to the back of the gauge? I haven't replaced the stock fuel filter for a time as I figured the FASS filter would take care of the fuel. Also the FASS fuel filter is not very old, a recent replacement. After installing the needle valve and a length of 1/8" tubing long enough to reach the gauge on the A-Pillar, I did cycle the FASS enough to flush the air out of the fuel line before I attached it to the back of the gauge. This has me scratching my head....Did I screw-up? :wtf:Lee

I'm in at 5,000 miles using Delo 400 and Fleetguard Filters. Figure I'd go between 3k and 7.5k.

Just my worth. I installed the FASS some time ago and plumbed it through the OEM fuel filter. Guess my thought was that the filter assembly was good and the problem has always been the crappy OEM lift-pump. I figured that an added filter might not be such a bad thing. I still change the OEM filter but not as often. So far so good.

Thanks to all for the replies. I am not that worried about direct plumb of fuel to the gauge and in the cab, I know many don't like that idea however. I'll likely do a direct plumb with the needle valve as soon as the temps go up a bit and it's not so darn cold out in the shop...maybe about April or May:pray:If that doesn't work then I guess I'll start looking for an electronic gauge