mr.mindless

being an air leak as opposed to a fuel leak already had it narrowed down to pre-pump before you did any other testing. pressureize the tank like Mike said, or just spend $100 and replace the fuel lines from the tank to the pump. When mine went the rust was near the bend at the floor/firewall area but it really could be anywhere. If the fuel lines are rusted through it would probably be a good time to replace your hard brake lines as a preventative measure. My front crossover hard line, fuel supply hard line, and the original remaining piece of front-to-back hard line all failed within a year of each other. The only original steel plumbing on my '97 are the hard lines on the rear axle...

I know I've read a good one as a part of an AFC tuning writeup, but Google isn't being kind to me on that. I didn't find any exceptional writeups on arm adjustment either. If your truck is a 5sp you could just pull the plate out too. There are urban legends that it can hurt the pump but experience of many says otherwise. I ran without a plate for a while. I wouldn't do it on an automatic or without boost and pryo gauges either. Your foot controls EGTs once you hit 20-25psi and the AFC is at full travel.

a 10w40 flows as a 10w would flow when cold, and flows as a 40w would flow at operating temp. The only thing that matters is the temperature of the actual oil. Here's a good primer. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php

Really sounds like the foot on the governor arm is hanging on the bottom of the fuel plate once in a while.Run through that adjustment procedure first. If you're not comfortable doing so, slide the plate all the way back and the arm shouldn't be able to miss it unless it's WAY out of adjustment. Your truck will be a dog, but if that was the issue it'll be a consistent dog instead of intermittantly loosing fuel.Did you get a working fuel pressure gauge yet? I expect your pressures are good and it's just restricting fueling as opposed to starving for fuel.We are talking about a P7100 12v right?

No doubt about air in that line. You have a leak on the suction side of your lift pump. It might be enough that it would be wet from fuel weep while sitting at rest - hard start is probably from that feed line being empty. Be happy that you only have a hard start and not a no-start, the 12v pump doesn't self prime!

Different states and provinces have different regulations. Here in NY side windows can't have more than 70% nor can the windshield have anything additional below the factory tint stripe. Rear glass isn't restricted. Rear side windows on SUVs and trucks isn't restricted. The way the law here is written it doesn't matter if it's factory or not - the only thing that could potentially matter is if it was done pre-1991 and is grandfathered, I won't quote that part. I doubt any manufacturer has factory tint darker than the standard 73%. If your friend's Mack is registered out of province, your province's equipment laws won't stick. Know your local laws.

factory front windows will always be 73%....

You gave a good description, then. I'm late to the party but that's exactly what I was going to tell you. Not a bad idea to at least go through it and check out the bearings. It's gotta get run through to change the synchros anyway. If you've got a good trans shop that's the route I'd run. Well, actually the route I'd run is to do it myself. Buddy changed the main shaft bearings in his 4500 in two nights.... Parts cost was under $100. I run in a rather DIY crowd, you might say...

Much more likely the shift fork is worn. My buddy's '02 had identical issues, needed a shift fork and collar. The pads wear and fall off, then the ATF doesn't have enough lube to let metal-on-metal live for too long. Once the fork and collar wear enough it gets sloppy, and in no-load situations it can slip out.It'll get worse pretty quickly. My buddy ran home from VA with a bungee cord on the shifter but it wouldn't stay in all the time - the bungee let it slam back in on its own though!Was only about $50-80 in parts from the dealer, as I recall. The other good news is that aside from snap rings being annoying, these transfer cases are really dead simple to tear down and reassemble.

22psi, empty on flat ground doing less than 80mph? That's more meaningful to me than the high EGTs. Sounds like something is really loading up your engine. Although the 12cm housing may have had something to do with it, what did the 18cm do to that number?

Good luck getting Ballistic to ship anything. Call first, call often if you choose to do business with them. Things are usually not in stock and the website never says so. They charge first and ship when they feel like it too.

Windage is the big one on picking up speed for me. I tow a lot of hills on my route to wheeling land through US15 in southern NY and north central PA. When I'm grossing around 18-19k with just my Dakota on I don't find I gain much speed except on the real steep low speed stuff. When I add a second rig to my trailer and am closer to 24k it's a whole different story. Steep hills at 70 on the interstate take a while to gain speed, steep hills in "the hills" take nothing to gain a lot of speed from 45-50. The slower you're going the less windage you have the more speed you'll gain. Remember aero drag goes up as a square of speed, so the faster you're traveling the less speed you'll tend to gain.Even with my wrong cam and resulting high pyros I grab more gears running downhill into towns to keep the Banks Brake doing its thing than I do running up the steep stuff.

definitely an 8' box.too bad it's 4x2, but that seems like a pretty stellar deal.

I'd tap in from the tail lights and run forward from there - it's likely the only place you can steal the "bright" side from anyway.I'm sure there are some crossmembers to throw wire clips on. If they face the wrong way, as they probably do, use a zip tie and a wire clip.

I don't know what sort of magic goes on, but I've not had issues with manifold bolts yet, thankfully.Finally took a look at my timing cover for you. There are a total of 27 bolts on that pup. 5 are internal, 22 exposed.Of the 22 exposed ones, 11 thread into the cover (7 in a row around the IP, the 2 lowest ones in the cover at the bottom of the crank and 2 straight above those at the top of the crank) and 11 thread into the block (9 though the cover, 2 at the bottom corners of the housing against the oil pan). I can't swear to it, but I'd be willing to bet that the 5 internal bolts match the 11 externally accessible shorties. Maybe Quickserve will help here, come to think of it?Yeah, that would have been the easy way to go Better info, and it shows the stud locations too. Free quickserve access doesn't give dimensions or part numbers but it's a good base to go from.

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No issues at all with the lit Contura switch I used with my Banks Brake, lights when it's active which just works great for me. I had to rejigger their wiring to get it to light that way but it wasn't hard.

I'm going to try and remember to do that for ya today. I was too deep into couch potato status when you posted last night to go look

the long timing cover bolts are the ones that go through the cover into the block, the short ones are the ones around the edge by the IP.I believe there are 2-3 short bolts in the block pattern. I have a timing housing off the engine if you need me to count short vs long for ya. And if you know anyone with a 98.5+ truck who had the KDP take out their timing gear housing.... I have one off the engine!

You'll need to update your build thread "current pic"!

gutting the AFC is only good for a smoke show

Are you sure you have a pump issue and not an overflow valve issue?The mechanical lift pump almost never fails. The overflow valve is what regulates pressure in the P7100, it's a spring loaded ball valve at the exit from the pump to the fuel return line. The older ones look like a stacked banjo setup much as on the top of the fuel filter, you can take out the smaller bolt and stretch or shim the spring and see if your pressure improves.Replacements are well under $50, I got mine on Ebay. I'm still running the stretched spring in the original overflow valve

Bigger injectors mean more fuel; more fuel means more heat, smoke, and power.... I'd expect that for an equal injection quantity and boost level, power should be the same and the shorter duration injection event would improve combustion, effectively advance timing, and lower EGTs. Can those who have swapped injectors around confirm this? I'm still running the stock ISB 205 injectors with my B5.9 215 P-pump and my EGTs are not well controlled. They don't drop at higher RPMs under load - possibly in part since my wastegate is shut. I can play with the wastegate and maybe help myself out a little, but grossing at 24k through the PA hills there were places that I was pedaling myself down to 40mph to stay under 1400˚, keeping it under 1350˚ was near impossible. Flat ground cruising I'm rarely under 1000 loaded. 700˚ish at 70 flatland when empty (8500#) I read that with the higher ISB popoff pressure my timing should be retarded about 3˚ from where it's set, so my timing should be at about 15˚. It's a hard start in the winter so I'm planning to retard it about a degree from where it is when I check it next. I also kept my mechanical fuel pump, so I'm running the 12v cam. The only consequential difference between the two is exhaust lift, I'm sure loosing exhaust lift isn't helping my pyro, but it's only a 13% difference... 12V Stock: INT: 159° .235” Lift EX: 204° .263” Lift 102 LDA 24V Stock INT: 159° .235” Lift EX: 206° .297” Lift 107.5 LDA I'm thinking that RV275s and turning my fueling down a little should help me out the most without loss of power. Turbo is a stock B5.9 HX35, I try to keep boost under 33-35, it'll hit 40 or so. I have a bad wastegate actuator that I haven't swapped out yet. --- Update to the previous post... still stock intake and air filter, by the way. Filter minder says it's about 75-80% used up right now. Exhaust wise, a 4" straight pipe from 3" straight pipe when I did the exhaust brake made essentially no change at all.

silly question, but you checked your PS fluid level right?

That seems pretty Rube Goldberg to me when there's such a much simpler solution