mrclean

Yes, it's possible. The bad one was likely sucking the life out of the good one, causing the no-start issue..........so you may not have anything drawing down the power.

So a PacBrake would bolt onto it? Or would you need an inline-style brake?

Simply put......yes. Best money I spent on the truck.

That's where I got mine........and yes, it only works on the 4x4 trucks. I have approx 30k on the repair and it seems to be holding up well so far. When I tow, I drag 8k-13k.......went from PA to UT and back in April and had no issues. And I don't hesitate to tow in 5th gear. - - - Updated - - - This is generally true.......though when mine popped off I was just driving down the interstate with no trailer and no load. And there were no warning signs prior to the failure. As I understand it, the only true reliable repair is a full-spline main shaft. But my reasoning was that for $150, the retaining sleeve was a decent alternative to the cost (in time and money.....because if you tear it down that far, you may as well rebuild) of tearing down the trans to install a new mainshaft. And if the repair failed, I'd only be out $150 and a little time.......

Thanks all! Just to note, it's only a boost fooler unit, not a Quadzilla box. I'm leaning toward it being the problem as, other than gauges, it was the only recent change I've made to the truck.

I'm getting this code approx once a week........scanner says it's a low input. At first I thought the MAP sensor was bad, so I replaced it. Still get the code. It's a little irritating, since the truck runs a little weak after it pops that code. Mods are in my sig, with the exception of a Quadzilla boost fooler, which I haven't added onto the sig. I added the boost fooler over a year ago and have had no issues, this is a recent development...started a few weeks ago. Could the fooler have failed?

First, check the horn itself, verify that it actually works. Then check for power at the wire harness at the horn. If nothing there, work your way back to the column.....

Is the overflow valve actually required? I have a tapped 14mm banjo bolt that I believe would fit(the overflow valve is larger than the 12mm fuel inlet). If I can't use that port, I'll just cut the FASS fuel line and install the t-fitting........

Yes. Look at the rear of the connector where the harness enters......the wires tend to corrode inside there and break contact.

I have one on the shelf, waiting to go on the truck. I'll get the part number off the box and post it up later........

Haven't done it yet, but it's on the mod list........ http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/54/TruckBedRails

Yes, I'll be using an isolator and one of those needle valves. Thanks for the info guys!

Thanks for the link Lone Watie. Does that piece replace the banjo bolt that is next to the VP's inlet port?

I'm wanting to hook up my fuel pressure gauge....finally. I have a FASS installed, with the supply line going directly to the VP, so the factory fuel filter can is gone. I do have a T-fitting I could use by cutting the hose (don't really want to do that), but I had hoped I could use fittings of some sort to plumb into one of the fittings on the injection pump......is that possible? And if so, does anyone know which fittings I'd need?

'99 Ram 3500.......182,000 miles.

That's why I always recommend budgeting in a core replacement at the same time as the evap swap........it adds $100 or more to the job, but it's almost a lock that the core's going to fail. If you didn't replace it now, you'd be doing the job all over again, probably in winter weather! I'm surprised you didn't smell any antifreeze in the cab.

I must correct myself here.........There are two switch positions that don't run the comp...the floor-only, and face-only(vent?). All others run the AC comp.

The comp will also run with switch in either of the defrost positions........domestic auto companies started this in the mid-'90s.....although there have been several people I have talked to that disabled this function by modifying the switch.

Don't know if you found one yet.....I'd look for a pair (assuming our RC is a 4x4)from any '81-'93 1/2T Dodge truck. At least then you wouldn't be stuck looking for only the 3.21 gearset, which wasn't exactly common. Most of those years had 3.55's.

For the blend door(hot/cold), there is a small electric actuator on the bottom of the HVAC case. It can be seen on the bottom of the case above the passenger footwell. It is connected to the blend door with a plastic coupler, which often fails. With a little patience, it can be removed/replaced without pulling the HVAC case. As for the AC, I have observed(on my '99)that the only switch position that does not run the AC comp is the one for floor-only.