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Update, OFI rebuilt injection pump, still white smoke, but is getting better! So needed to move trailer off street, just back into a space from street. now less white smoke. So quickly hooked up and got off street, once done very little white smoke at idle, some on giving some throttle. That was Friday night. This morning tried again, started right up, some white smoke, lots if I gave it throttle. Then it warmed a bit, not enough to move the temp gauge total run time about two minutes. No visible white smoke at idle, and smooth idle no white smoke and smooth up to about 1,500 to 1,700 rpm on easy throttle, then starts getting rough and lots of white smoke. So is it a high pressure leak, or still air in some lines, starts right up no hesitation. I am concerned that EGT doesn't seem to drop below 400 degrees at idle. I didn't have new copper washers, when I put the old original injectors back in.

This does look to be the original based on the date code.

Just based on the number of miles on the current sample. I have every change tested, but only basic test which is $28.

I was going by the service manual. I could remove the Valve cover loosen all six injector hold downs then re-torque to 89 in #s that should allow the crossover to re-seat. It might be better to loosen the injector lines, then loosen the hold downs, tighten the injector lines snug, then torque hold downs. Then fully torque #2, #5 and #6 leaving 1, 3, and 4 loose to allow bleeding the air and get a start. That said I am still worried about the VP44, letting fuel up lines 1, 3, and 4 from just Lift Pump pressure.

Best way is to contact Blackstone labs, and ask for a sample kit. Cost is currently $38 to analyze for extended changes. They will send you a report, and how long you may go. I did this and when sample was sent at 10K they said it was good enough to go for 12,500, I like 10K and that is what I am doing.

Well thinking my VP44 died during injector install. Background; Truck 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9 with 302K miles, DS Power puck, and FASS DDRP-02 that delivers 17.5 psi at idle and 15 psi at WOT. I replaced my tappet cover gasket about two months ago and needed to remove the VP44 at the time, looked at the data plate, and thought I took a picture of it, but didn't. It looked to be the original VP44, didn't notice and rebuild information. Restart went as expected bleed the system, cranked several time fired and ran fine. Then about a couple weeks ago, I decided to install a set of Bosch RV275 injectors. Install went as expected, torqued hold down bolts to 89 in #s, and injector tubes to 27 ft. #s. Restart was more difficult than before. Once started lots of white smoke and rough running. *&(%&(*$*^%#%! So I replaced the stock injectors, thinking bad new injector, same results. Truck is not where I am currently at so, called it a day. about a week later, I put back the RV275's being extra careful, and same white smoke. One thing I noticed this time was prior to attempting restart, I pressurized the fuel system ahead of the VP44 by bumping the starter. This is with injector lines 1,3,& 4 loose, at that point I had fuel at those ports, I didn't think the 17.5 psi that my FASS lift pump provided would push fuel through the VP44 to the injectors. Thanks for input

Well looks like time to upgrade to a TIMBO APPS!Truck just felt like I turned off the key for a moment yesterday on the way home, and on came the CEL!Ran fine the rest of the way home, got out the scanner and sure enough P0121, followed mike's article on testing for the cause and all pointed to the APPS.Placed my order for a TIMBO last night, hope to see it soon.

What Mike states is true it is all about available volume!! The more volume you have the steadier the pressure. I run a FASS DDRP this is a 73 gph pump, 15 psi at idle, 12 at WOT pulling a 6% grade with 11,000# in tow, that is why I have 1/2 lines!

Time to check both the track bar and Ball Joints. Replaced mine and it steers like a champ now.

Organic/Organic are you looking at a DD clutch, or just a all organic SD? If the DD it comes with new flywheel. I tow a 11,000# 5th wheel so optioned for Valair's DD Organic. You do need to change you clutch habits a bit, but not much. I use to just let the clutch out on flat ground then accelerate, now I need to bring the rpms up just a bit (950 to 1,000) and slip it just a bit.

Well the batteries on my 01 were starting to let me down, it the truck set for about a week it would not start. Happened at the Airport a couple of times, sent a wimpy Ford Ranger to start me, took about 10 minutes of sitting with the Ranger spinning ABOUT 3k RPM to get enough charge to start the beast, 2nd time they sent two!I checked around and the best deal I came up with was local Dodge dealer $99 each, and this dealer has a 10% coupon on their WEB site. Two OEM 72 month batteries for $180!Mike got 10 years out of his, i how to do the same.

Didn't notice that the Two Delo's when I did my first change on my new used truck.Will check NAPA as they seem to have the Valvoline PB on sale right now.

Why use an electronic fuel pressure gauge in the first place?I see threads on here about none trusting the factory electronic oil pressure gauge. I have a mechanical FP gauge and would not have it any other way. My:2cents:.

Have you checked with the local Stealership? They may still have it available for a price. I think this is my biggest _____ with Dodge is that they build a truck with an engine that will go at least 500,000 miles, and then quit making the soft parts that can't go that far.I need to pay a visit to the local upholstery shop to see about recovering the drivers seat. Checked with the Dealership that I bought the truck from used and they don't have a factory seat cover any longer.I don't even think that the fabric is still available.:banghead:I for one hate after market seat covers as they all look cheap.

When it is Cold and moist outside I don't set the E-Brake, I work to keep the cables lubed, but if has been wet or rainy find a somewhat level spot and leave it in Reverse. I am sure the next discussion will be frozen clutches!

I would post pictures but can't yet. I really don't like the idea of fuel in the cab, just not a good idea. I have an ISSPRO gauge with large line to the isolator and the standard 1/8" tubing to the gauge in the A pillar, that and to boos line are inside 1/4" split loom tubing for protection from chaffing.I made sure the gauge side of the isolator was full of antifreeze, as close to zero air as possible, my gauge is rock solid.I came off of the schraeder valve on my 01 VP$$ with a Vulcan universal 30" fuel line to the isolator.

:iagree:I think that would be the best idea, might have some special adhesive.

I like the four piece Winter fronts, going to look around to see what I can find to make some out of. I like the Diamond Plate idea.That or dark smoked Plexiglas, with some nice SS carriage bolts and wing nuts to hold it on.

You are 100% correct, it is all about preventive maintenance, the Cummins will last between 500,000 and 1,000,000 miles, but the accessories will need to be serviced many times during that time.

Well I gave $132 for my ISSPRO mech. FP gauge with isolator. I also got the Boost and Pyro to match. Placed in an "A" pillar mount. I also didn't like the idea of destroying my existing pillar cover to install the gauges so i made my own mounts, see this link. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/359456-glowshift-pillar-triple-gauge-pod-sucks-suggest-alternative.html

So I still park outside, but usually plug it in between about 42 and lower. I know it is easier on the engine, but it is also nice to get heat faster. I only drive about four miles to work in the morning, so I easily make it to 190.

Why buy a starter for $150 to $200 when 99% of the time is is bad contacts, or repace a altenator for about the same when it is most likely bad brushes or bearings. Vacuum pump and Power steering pump 99% of the time bad seals all can be rebuilt at home for a little time. Cummins are Medium Duty Truck engines so things are made to be rebuilt not replaced. When I saw that Geneo's Gurage sells these kits mostly for less than $50. I knew that would be the way that I would go.

I don't believe in dirty engines or engine compartments. No I don't directly blast at full pressure, but I do get them clean. Now days most electronics are sealed very well.I have two gassers an 88 Bronco II and an 06 PT Cruiser Rag Top (Wife thinks it is hers) also a turbo!:pant:I wash down all engine compartments spring and Fall, Simple Green (they now have a de-greaser formula). I hate working on a dirty engine.My Cummins is still getting to basic clean, local wand wash as the buildup is from 239,000 miles. Top was kept pretty clean, bottom just had a nice oil dust dirt coating. If I clean it and it leaks it needed fixing anyway.Looks like I have about one more trip for what I missed the 1st two times. Just a little buildup around the oil pan.

I don't see much to fail in an Isolator, rubber diaphragm.The two most important steps.1. Make sure the diaphragm is pushed all the way to the Fuel side (end). I used Q-Tips so as not to damage.2. Make sure the connections on the gauge side are tight, or you will get a heart attack as your FP goes to ZERO. Not really just the gauge quits working when the diaphragm reverses.3. Make sure you bleed the fuel line to the isolator, mine has a hex screw.I used a Vulcan 30" universal fuel line that comes off of the test port on the VP$$ and takes a natural path up between the battery and power box to the isolator mounted using the strap clamp attached to a Fender bolt by the Hood hinge.

The reasons that you can go further between oil changes with a Diesel and a Gasser is that the combustion of Diesel doesn't produce all of the crap acid and moisture, and dilute the oil like a gasser.I always went about 10,000 on a VW dasher Diesel I got for my daughter. Oil was so black that would stain your hands.If I go 7,500 mile between changes at @11 qt per changes that is the same as changing my old F250 460 at 3,000 @ 7qt per change.