NorCalAndrew

As a professional mechanic I have seen this a few times over the years. Sad to say only one guy fessed up to being the one who did it. Guy had brought the car in for tires. Tire guys told me to have a look "something don't look right". We showed the customer, He told me he had done brakes a week before. I flipped the caliper for "good customer service" . Heck the tire was already off and hose was not damaged. In your case that hse is toast. Replace both front hoses at the same time, at this age they are due.

If you are interested I think I have the whole thing (box and harness). Not using it, and they are mostly obsolete. $50 and I'll even send it to you.

I switched out mine from a auto to manual (MV5600) The harness is not the same but wil work. First off going from an auto to man means you do not have a clutch switch as well as no Park/Neutral signal in the loop to let the starter relay send power to the starter solenoid. Simply finding the signal wire in the auto harness that grounds when in Park/Neutral and ground it. Sorry don't have the schematic around to pin out for you. THe Clutch switch harness is there it just has a bypass (yellow wire) located next to the clutch pedal just about the carpet line. Almost forgot about reverse light switch, yep going to have to find the wire and run it to the sitch on the manual trans, also sorry don;t have the diagram in front of me. Most of the wires that go to the auto trans can be taped back put of the way. I think the manual harness has a red tape band on them and the auto has a yellow band.

Preload is to get rid of the play and set everything tight. Then back off to establish some free play, hand tightening allows the endplay to be taken up with little to no pressure on the bearings. When done right there should be just the slightest endplay .001 to .003 inch. And you will not feel that little bit pulling and pushing the hub in or out, use a dial indicator.

Sorry for chiming in late on this, so far some real good suggestions. While at it replace the schrader valves, service ports. When I got my old truck the AC was dead, had less than 15 psi static pressure in the system. Being the cheap axx I am I just dropped in 16oz R34a and a ½ oz oil. Worked good, probably should have evaced the system but hey it was hot out and I did not want to waste the time. Anywho ta month later the system was empty again I checked it with a UV lamp. No leaks except the schrader valve on the fitting. I shrugged it off as maybe a bit that came out when I disconnected the gauges. Charged it again and this time cleaned off the schrader valves (high and low) with acetone (brake cleaner). Yep a month later same thing and the stame green glow returned at the schrader valves. OK fool me once, YA I get it. So r&r the fittings/schrader valves, added some oil (PAG and pulled a 250 micron vacuum AND IT HELD! filled system (sorry can't remember the amount) been two years now and still cold As a side note getting rid of the puke bottle and running the road draft tube under the truck and behind the cab as well as replacing the oil covered radiator allowed the fan to pull the heat from the condenser a heck of a lot better than it was. Doing this lowered the high side pressure quit a lot and dash vents are cold at idle on the hottest days

If the hub uses dual tapered bearing a final check would be to check endplay. Should be .001 to .003 inches. This makes sure the bearing are not too tight or too loose. Too tight means there is no grease between the bearings and the races, too loose means slopy and will wear out soon.

You'll never have to worry about the rear window getting hammered now. Looks good

Another option is to just add a relay to the harness. Use the signal off the PCM to trigger the relay, and wire the fuel pumps to the output of the relay. A relay rated to handle 20 amps should be enough to power both pumps, assuming a fuse is used

This last weekend I did the swap out, 47RE to NV5600. The mechanical stuff went together quite easy (but dang that is one heavy transmission). I pulled pin 6 of c1 connector to the PCM out and grounded the now unconnected wire, installed a NSS and she cranked right up, also the CC works. But I have a check engine light, yes I know PCM is looking for trans temp, pressure and 1 to 2 shift. Anyone out there know where and the cost of reflashing the PCM to accept the manual?

Not an expert on this but looks like the throttle position sensor is crapping out

Ok Red grounding the Black/White wire will get it to start, but having a Clutch switch might be a safe addition. With my luck I would end up jumping into someone in a parking lot by accident.

Ok dave110 let me follow this, as I plan on doing the swap out in the next two weeks. If I install a Clutch switch and ground the center terminal of the NSS, the starter should work. Connecting the two outer wires to the NSS to the reverse switch on the trans will get the back up lights to work. Pulling the Park Neutral Switch Sense the terminal from the PCM harness connector should allow the CC to work. On a second note I have access to a laptop with Cummins Insite through work (we use it to talk to our fleet using 1939 protocol) can I connect it up to my truck on 1999 2500 ISB. I assume it would just be getting the canbus connection to the Nexiq module.

Just tossed out the HF set as they are cheep, but in no way a "this gauge is going to last" . Some of their stuff is Ok most is crap, but in a pinch they are low cost. if ya wern't so far I would just come by with my gauges.

Does your tire pressure gauge have a good seal at the stem to prevent fuel spraying allover the place? Harbor freight has real low cost gauges just for gas, maybe not good for daily use but heck for the once a year stuff

TO have the clarity of thought, in all that was happening, to protect your hound... my hats off to you sir, Big Props !! Glad you and your dog survived