dave110

Well I put the thermostat that I saved from my 53 block partout in. Also put on a new radiator cap. Now it goes to 204 the first time it warms up and then bounces between 188 and 195. I guess I can live with that for now but I think I'll put in a new sending unit and maybe my spare pump. It just bugs the heck out of me why it changed.

Thanks. The coolant smell came when it hit 204 which it never ever did before all this started happening. That's why I'm concerned that it may be getting hot but not showing hot on the gauge. I flushed last summer and it's been OK til now so I doubt air is a problem but that's how it's acting. I'm scared the engine might be boiling and the gauge only shows 180. Maybe I worry too much now that I see others have fluctuation but I'm confused as to what suddenly changed. Thanks for all the replies.

OK, Thanks. I guess I'll just run it and keep my eye on the temp. I have another sending unit I think I'll put in and probably try another $28 thermostat. I just want it to be the way it was before whatever happened hapened. I probably should'nt let the wife drive my truck anymore:lmao:

Thanks Mike! I feel better now but still wondering what suddenly happened. Let me ask a dumb ?? I assume the gauge and check engine lite for over temp take their info. from the temp sending unit at the stat housing. Is it possible for the temp back in the engine to be hotter than in the front where the sender is? I'm thinking air bubbles but there is no bleeder on these motors i don't think.

Thanks for the replies guys!! Glad to see I'm not alone. What bothers me is that I never had a problem. 90 degrees pulling a trailer or 10 degrees empty once it hit 190 it stayed there. What could have happened? My old 'good ' stat failed and now I got a junker? I'm just concerned that the engine is getting really hot and it's just not showing it because it's not getting circulated to the temp sensor at the thermostat housing. Is that possible? Wouldn't it puke if it got that hot or lose power? Is it possible for the water pump to be working at only 1/2 it's ability? Sorry for all the ?? I'm just worried about this. It's already my second engine and I don't want to go for 3.

The other day the wife picked my truck up from inspection and said it smelled like coolant. I never had any issues before so I looked for leaks. Found none. Took it out and it seemed to take forever to get to 190 but it smelled like coolant before it got there telling me it was warm. The temp. (scan gauge and factory gauge) would go as high as 204 and then all of a sudden drop to 188 in a matter of 20 sec or so and then climb back up and repeat. What gets me is the radiator cap is cold even after a 1/2 hour drive and the bottom hose is cold but the top is hot so the stat must be opening. I thought the stat might have failed 1/2 open which would explain the symptoms so I put a new NAPA one in. Wanted a 190 but saw I got a 195 but put it in and now it won't go above 180. It's in the 30's out here but I thought the radiator should be getting warm. It's like the coolant isn't getting circulated but it never puked or seemed to get over hot. Is it possible the water pump isn't working right? Any other ideas? I'm looking at it all through a microscope now so to speak and I'm not sure whats normal. And just for my knowledge, the coolant flow is from motor through thermostat into top hose through radiator and back to the motor through the bottom hose right? It took me so long to get used to the reverse flow system in my LT1 that now I forget the which way is normal:banghead:. Also, I did a flush this summer and all looked good so I'm pretty sure I don't have any blocked passages.

I had bad luck with one too. The one mounting hole was drilled too deep and broke into the inlet hole. Took me awhile to find it. Somehow being the second owner made that happen so they wouldn't hear anything about warranty.

Just wanted to give an update.This problem justwent away and ever came back...........yet. Gotta love a truck that fixes itself.

I'd buy the one for $125 shipped and another for a spare when you find a cheap one. In my experience you'll need it. Ive cracked 2 so far and I'm no city slicker and niether is my truck. I always let it warm up and cool down too according to my pyro. I think the same company that screwed up the 53 blocks also made these manifolds:lol:.

I was thinking the same. I don't know anyone who has one though.

Thanks for the replies so far. I'd love to do a free spin conversion if it wasn't so costly. Guess I'mm just stuck with my "99:doh:

I'll second the horrible setup motion!! You can see the abs sensor but it's underneath the rotor and I can't get my fingers or a socket in there. Anyone ever pound the studs back through to separate the rotor from the hub and get at the abs sensor that way? Would pounding the studs back in that manner damage the bearings? I just can't believe I have to go through the whole adventure of removing the hubs just to change a speed sensor.

Like the title says, has anyone ever done or heard of this being done? I have to change out speed sensors which are hidden under the rotor which is behind the unit bearing............:banghead:. You get the idea. I sure wish mine were like the later models.

No I have'nt. How do you do that?

Anyone?

Are we a diesel A or B? My Scan gage seems to give me more MPG than I think it should. 24-26 seems high to me. And coasting or under light throttle like 300-9999 MPG. Is this normal?

Ouch! Those things are half the price of a unit bearing assy. Are there any diagnostics I can perform to be sure, like unplugging them to see if the problem goes away? I forgot to mention sometimes when it happens my brake (not abs) light comes on.

Thank you Sir. Are the sensors themselves available through a parts house?

Hi all! I have an issue thats been bothering me. Every now and then my ABS will activate. At first I thought I hit loose stones or an oil patch but that's not the case. Does it pulling a trailer or not and I switched to a new brake controller that's supposed to be ABS friendly. Sometimes I can make it happen by pushing very lightly on the pedal. If I push hard on the pedal it will go away. It only seems to do it at the very begining of the pedal travel when I push down lightly. I'm thinking the sensor in the rear axle but during my search it seems the speedometer usually goes wacko if that goes bad. My speedometer is fine. Anyone have any ideas? :shrug:Thanks

Thanks,I knew I could get an answer here!. So bad LP/no fuel flow could overheat the IP, stop it from working until it cools down, and set the code, and then be OK again after fuel flow is restored?

Hello. I was wondering if anybody can answer me this one just to satisfy my curiosity. Theres a guy over on CF who's Raptor 100 quit due to dirt in the gears. He got a P0230 which makes sense and also a p1689 code. How can lift pump trouble cause a 1689? The last time I got one the VP was done. What really baffles me is he said once the lift pump was fixed it cleared all the codes. What am I missing?

Well, she let me sit today. Crank but no start. Had Dad tow me home and got it in the shop and thought i'd try one more time and it fired right up. Funny thing is there where no codes.. I'm changing out the sensor now, got lucky and this one actually came out in one piece. Hope my luck continues and fixes the problem. Guess I'll know for sure when it lets me sit again.......................or not.

Thanks for the replies. Anyone have more info on the wire that gets rubbed? I'd hate to have to change that sensor if it's just a wire. I had a hard enough time getting one out with the engine out of the truck.