dave110

Thanks for the replies. I was hoping nobody said ECM!. The clunking is so uniform you could sing a tune to it. It's either 3 or 4 clunks every time. While stretching my arm as far as I can to reach the key and getting my ear as close as I can to the pump it sure sounds like the clunk is in the pump. Like diesel4life says, it seems like bad brushes, worn bushings, or otherwise dead spot in the motor but I kinda threw that idea out after the other pump does the exact same thing. I'd like to just replace the relay but the one they use is nice in the way it snaps into the mount and seals tight so I'd like to go with the same one if I could to avoid more cutting and splicing to put another brand in. I'll try to get it to repeat it's clunk and then jump the hot pins and see if it runs then. That should rule out the relay.

I have a lift pump issue I am chasing. Now before you tell me Raptor is junk, get a FASS I switched to my spare pump today and still the same symptoms so I'm ruling the pump out for now. Most of the time when cold I'll key on, hear the 1sec pump run and away we go as normal. Pump always holds 18 psi once it's running. When the truck is warmed up and I shut it off for a few mins. and go to restart, most of the time I hear a clunk, clunk, clunk from the LP. After that sometimes it will run and sometimes not. I usually bump the starter until it does run and then start. Once running it never shuts off and hold good pressure. What makes it hard to diagnose is that it does not always repeat. Today after switching pumps out I went for a drive to warm up, brought it back shut off and bumped the starter and clunk,clunk,clunk. Till I got my meter set up and went under to check for voltage I bumped the starter again and the it worked fine. I'm thinking either bad relay or ECM not triggering as it should? Thoughts and how to test?

Thanks for the info!! I'll be trying this next time I retire

3905351 is the part # if it did not change again within the last 4 months

The Whole t does not come with the seals. They are $11 a piece from Cummins. Ask me how I know

Never a leak so far

How did you end up bolting it down? Just wondering since I made a suggestion.

That's right.

I have stem extenders on mine and use a 2 headed truck type chuck and have little problems. The above suggestion is the easiest though.

Neither of my 99's had it. They fixed the problem by stepping the hole. That's no guarantee that yours does not though.

Awesome! Thanks guys!! I'll try 2 6's when I need a battery.

Hey Russ, In my research I have found some butyl tape as well as butyl caulk. I think that's what they use for windshield installation so should be pretty water tight. The EPDM Coatings website has many options to look at if you have not already. Also, I have found there are formulations for aluminum as well as rubber so just an FYI.

Amen Brother!

New to the camping world here. What's the advantage to 2 6's instead of 1 12? And how do you wire them to get 12v?

Thanks for all the replies guys! Seems like an EPDM product is the best repair but also most expensive. It would run me about $400 for my 25er with the primer. I see Koolseal is an elastromeric not EPDM. and will probably not last as long but less expensive. The whole camper thing is kind of experimental for us so I'm not sure what I'll do yet. For now probably Eterna bond the bad spots where it leaks since I'm running out of good weather to do the whole thing anyhow. Do they come with good application instructions? I see you need a roller and a squeegee. What's the squeegee for?

What brand did you use? Does it fill tears in the fabric, or should it be taped first? Is the Koolseal EPDM?

Hello all! I'm the new owner of a 1990 HI-LO 25 footer. I know nothing about campers. I didn't even know it went up and down til the guy put it down for me to tow. The roof needs repaired and it is like a fabric rubber coated looking material. What would you guys use to recoat? I'm sort of favoring doing the worse spots with Eternabond tape and then Koolseal over it all. The Koolseal supposedly comes in a formula for non metal roofs but I couldn't find it. Sound like a plan? I have A LOT to learn here so I'll take all suggestions. Thanks

Here's some pics. Your problem is on the other end though. I would try over on the Cummins forum. There's always guys parting whole trucks there and they'll probably sell you a glovebox lid. There are also online junkyards I had found when looking for an engine. I don't remember names but a Google search may bring results.

They don't like to chew through steel wool. It has worked very well for me. Mix it in your foam.

I welded a 3/8 pc. of roundstock to 2 angle iron brackets and hung the glovebox on that because mine was broke on the part that's part on the dash. I'll try to take a pic if you want.

I always knew them politicians were good for something.

Dang, you guys have all the luck! I wish I could find an NV4500 donor truck on the east coast. Can't get the trans swap back here for $2700. Buy it , part it, and make some $$ at the least.

Finally pulled the trigger on a reman VP and my problem is fixed. BIG thanks to all who helped me on this one. Lots of knowledge on this forum. Now listen guys, I don't mean to call anyone wrong here but I feel I need to explain my findings to help others who may be experience hard starts. I finally broke down and called Doug at BlueChip. I always felt since I started diagnosing this, that his hard start cold and instantly runs smoothly due to a broken diaphragm explanation fit my truck. When I mentioned that on here I was promptly reminded that a pump was torn apart and no diaphragm was found so therefore it can't be true and I dismissed the idea. Wiring the LP to the wiper circuit fixed for awhile but I just had a feeling it was Bandaid. We talked, he gave me some home work which I had already done and he instantly told me I had a bad diaphragm. I told him the days of the diaphragm are over according to this forum. Partly true he said and this is how he explained. The old style diaphragm was upgraded around 2000-2001. So after that there were no more. But the ones on the shelf and on the road did not get recalled. So there are still some 99-00 trucks out there with low mileage like the one in the local paper @ 79k( which they want 24k for). Say that truck goes down the road another few miles and dies with a 1689 code and the guy buys a reman from a sloppy rebuilder. He takes the pump, replaces the computer and little else, and sends it back out into the world with an old style diaphragm as an upgraded reman. Then here comes a guy with an 02 and buys that pump for his truck and he actually goes backwards because he now has an old style pump he didn't have in the first place. And the cycle goes on and on. Doug says he sees these old style pumps and expects we will see them for as long as these trucks are around. So the VP that Mike pulled apart must have been a new style, or an old style that a good rebuilder properly upgraded. It's still great to have pics of the inside of one and again I'm not trying to stir the pot here but it's hard not to believe since it fixed my problem after I tried everything else. Makes perfect sense when I think about it. At least now I know I have new everything in the return line and new connector tube O-rings and I learned quite a bit to boot.

If someone could have told me the size I would have cut my own. I had no idea what was inside til I had it apart. Now that someone (me) has posted it the next guy won't need a day in the learning bucket, at least not on this subject.

That's what I'll do next time. I just wanted to mention it to save someone else about $45 if they need to replace their seals. They actually measure .315 x .472 but I think 1/2 will work.