jigabop

Well it took me frikken hours to figure out... But I got my old GS4 phone to bend to my will. It will now: Automatically boot up when I start the truck Auto-launch iquad app on system start Automatically shut down within 10 seconds of truck key off. I still don't like using the damn phone, but at least this is a step in the right direction. and good lord it was a PITA to pull off...If you aren't tech savvy...don't even bother trying to do the above as it involves rooting the device, editing a system file (requires root access) that if done wrong will make it necessary to reboot into recovery and factory reset the phone. (had to do that twice cause I screwed it up the first 2 times :doh:) and then adding a couple special apps to auto start iquad on system boot, and creating a script in an automation app to check every 10 seconds if the power cord is plugged in and delay another 10 seconds if it is, or shut down if it's not. (requires root access)

Exactly what I'm saying...putting a filter in there is a joke. it's snake oil for those gullible enough to fall for it. Unless you add a pump of some sort and a check valve, there is no way to "filter" your trans fluid using that "kit" And as Mike has stated: there's no need to filter it either. No combustion happens in there and it's a sealed system so dirt shouldn't be making its way in there anyway. toss a strong permanent magnet in the bottom and call it good.

wow long arse thread about trans oil LOL I run amsoil synchromesh MTF in my NV5600. No idea what the previous owner ran but that previous trans went boom and got replaced with a later model NV5600 with the larger input shaft. my truck originally came with the standard output engine and small input shaft NV5600 (99.5-00.5 6-speeds were SO motors and small input shaft NV5600s) had my clutch center hubs swapped by south bend to fit the larger shaft after my trans went boom. Been nothing but synchromesh from amsoil ever since in there. I run 9qts of oil in it. The shop that I bought the rebuilt NV5600 from machines a larger reservoir for oil into the transmission to increase the capacity of the oil and focus it where it's needed most. I also added PTO coolers https://www.genosgarage.com/product/transcool-3/transmission-coolers that add another quart capacity and overfilled as well. I fill my trans from the shifter tower by removing the shifter and filling it until that shaft and gears are at least ½ way submerged. Also monitor temp via the adrenaline. As for clutch: my stock clutch didn't last long when I first put my adrenaline on. So I upgraded to a south bend 3600DD clutch and threw in over 200HP more into the mix.That clutch is still holding up for now. However I don't expect it to last as long as a stoock clutch on a stock truck, but it definitely holds pretty tight! Tight enough to rip all the teeth off of gears before slipping. clutch wear is really up to how you drive the truck and the conditions the truck is in...someone that lives out in the middle of nowhere likely doesn't have to deal with stop n go traffic...stop and go will wear out a clutch significantly faster than someone who livesway out in the country and doesn't have to deal with bumper to bumper traffic on a busy 6 lane(per direction) interstate that's crawling at 0-5MPH...

I think he just wants to know how it would work LOL. maybe just maybe it could get some kind of slight oil flow from the gears and shafts turning...but that filter isn't going to filter out anything without a way to make sure oil can only flow in 1 direction and not flow back out... in other words: it doesn't do anything but throw money away on some useless BS and prey on people who don't know any better...total SCAM

Just an update. I had to go through 3 different emissions booths at the place and a manager had to come out and clean the opacity reader. They were getting inconsistent opacity readings and temp not within range or whatever, but after the manager cleaned the reader...She passed! woot! Thanks to everyone who helped and special thanks to Me78569 for all your hard work with the custom tuning! I still don't like using the dumb phone to tune it, but at least I don't gotta go through that waiving emissions dance and paying an extra $200 every 2 years just to get it registered.

I used for pyro, trans temp, corrected vehicle speed. pulse monitor was always nice and quick/accurate being wired in. I've noticed bluetooth has some lag and sometimes randomly disconnects and reconnects. Have thought about changing my A-pillar to add a pyro to it, but then I gotta find somewhere to put trans temp as well. Don't care for the dash mount cluster, have fuel pressure on the column, and have 2 boost gauges on the pillar with the pulse monitor mount on pillar as well...PM mount would be replaced with the triple pillar gauge mount to add the pyro.

First should note: it's a pv1 not pv2. Never had a v2 pulse. Have a tactile switch modded original ;) And no it wasn't still plugged in. I just wanted to see if it would work for gauges. Like set via the phone and never change levels. Just gauges only. But no unplughed and have bt only hooked up to tune this thing and test. Emissions tune cleans it up slightly but not enough. Vallet mode however seems to be cleaning it up much better though! 28% Don't get me wrong: i think that tune under load could probanly run pretty clean with boost, but snap test free revving in neutral is smokey still. The vallet mode tuning seems to be what might get it through emissions from what I've tried so far. I've attached my tune in the first post. Only change I've made is vallet mode %

I hear ya. And I held that torch for a while...Just ask Me##### how much of a fuss I put up over no monitor support. Heck give me a y-splitter that lets me hook up both at once. I'd be happy with that lol. us old farts don't pick up new tricks as fast as we used to and like quick and simple like a monitor. All these different menus and popups on screen of a cell phone and app crashing makes ya miss the good ol monitor. apparently my monitor works with V2 tuning btw LOL seems to show gauges and be able to change power levels. Now tuning wise I still plug in the BT for the phone to load in the tune, but hey...I might be able to use V2 with a pulse monitor after all!

now he tells me :P I did figure out the valet bit poking around in there today. 28% valet mode seems to do a lot better, however sometimes when I quickly stab the pedal to the floor it seems the ECM is faster than the quad and lets a big puff out before dialing it back. hopefully they don't have a quick foot or let me do it lol. I did play with power levels and setting it above 1 seemed to increase the smoke output. so 3 would be less than 2 for smoke?? I messed with valet mode settings a bit changing that % and 28% keeps the rev speed believable still while keeping the smoke amount lower. Much less than that revs waaay too slow and below like 10-15% it doesn't want to rev at all LOL sounds like a lope tune with it floored. :D New tuning is cool, just a bit of a learning curve and I don't have much time before nasty weather sits in for the rest of the year to get this thing through emissions and back on the road. They couldn't care less what you have under the hood. They never look under the hood. They just have you plug in a cord to the 12v outlet and follow the directions on the monitor which tells you when to floor it and let off. In a diesel snap test turbos are meaningless as it is free revving with no load on the engine. only a couple things would help in that type of situation: supercharger, or n²o. VGT might help since you can close the vanes down enough to spool just off idle, but I don't have one of those.

You're still on dino oil Mike? get synthetic already! LOL then you can change every 15-25k miles. I do mine every 15k or so...cause it usually leaks out lol. My poor truck needs some serious maintenance. lots n lots of work. Just haven't the time or money to do it all. leaky tappet cover (though could be vacuum pump i suppose), PCV hose that keeps the front end well lubricated. PS pump needs replaced, vacuum pump needs rebuilt, steering column bushing needs dealt with, steering box needs replaced. hydroboost hoses need replaced again due to bad PS pump. southbend HD clutch hydraulics are leakingy at the pedal ugh. yep...moneypit... back on topic: I would say timing and injectors make the biggest difference in engine sound. heck just turning the dial on that high idle switch will make my engine sound different on the fly due to the timing change that results from it. exhaust will have an effect but timing and injectors will have the largest effect on sound under the hood. now towards the tailpipe end exhaust and turbo config will play a big part. especially under load.

HELP! lol Seriously though. I tried the ME#### "Large injector emissions tune" and she still smokes a bit too much free revving off idle on PL1 Truck must go through the stupid diesel snap test which involves them putting a probe in the exhaust and then proceeding to put the pedal to the metal from idle till it reaches 2k RPM, then letting off till it settles back at idle, and repeating 5 more times (basically no load free-revving it. they don't dyno them here). If at any point it blows out more than 30% opacity it fails. Half the time they won't let the driver do the snap test, they get in and do it...so being lighter on the throttle physically is out. Any help would be appreciated. Truck is 2000 2500 4x4, 4.10s, 35's, 6-spd, SO-pump/engine, 6x.013 sac injectors (from Weston) S357/S475 compounds, 5" exhaust, studs, springs, push rods, airdog150 that's a decade old, DS-V modified liberty fuel module, gauges, IAT/CT fooler (high idle/winter MPG switch) SB3600DD clutch I'm gonna try the attached tomorrow as it's a bit too late tonight to be free-revving it, but suggestions to improve the tune are more than welcome to help this thing pass! EmissionsEdited.json