pepsi71ocean

I believe that altitude, and injector size affect pop pressure and the amount of overage you can go whithout stalling and operational issues. It was a trick I learned from a diesel mechanic I knew who was in his 70's. he said that you can't have a high pressure leak if you loosen the lock bars and the lines. He told me that sometimes if you have the blue lock bars tightened you can't get a good sealing on those high pressure lines, and while you may think your snug plus a 1/8 turn that your really not. He stated that you need to let the parts seat naturally, and not be forced to be in alignment. He said that in 40 years of diesel work he's never had to deal with a high pressure leak from a diesel when doing it that way. He said torquing goes as follows. Injection Pump->high pressure nut->injector side of high pressure nut->Injector hold down bar-> blue lock bars. i will say that since I've started doing this I haven't had any issues with high pressure leaks since. Although i can say that at least our trucks are easier to align, try injectors for a common rail haha.

When you put the injectors back in did you loosen the blue lock bars before you tightened down on the high pressure nuts? They are to go on snug, and then after you tighten the nuts down then tighten the injector hold down brackets? Have you tried parking the truck downhill to rule out a fuel leak? As for me, I went from 300 bar to 280 in 33,000 miles. I wouldn't doubt that the injectors could be popping off low.

WOT shift points are suppose to be about 2,800-3,000 rpm for a vp truck, and 2,500 for a Ppump. Do me a favor and follow this article, but don't change anything don't drop the pan. But as Dynamic stated we need information. Your delayed shifting can be caused by a few things, but without some information were lost here. However, your shifts for 1-2 and 2-3 should be around 1800-2200 give or take. Now if you have a programmer like a smarty expect that to play with your settings, and or having a high line pressure without a fooler. Don't make any adjustments but we need to see the line pressures at the accumulator through the test port. grab a 0-300 psi gauge from home depot for the test. It should take you 20 mins to hook up. Don't worry about dropping the pan or anything unscrew the test port and hook up the gauges. We need to see the line pressure.

That's way to hot. My advice is to measure your line pressures first before you adjust things. If you measure and your line pressures low you should turn it up when you have the pan down on your fluid and filter change. The gauge and lines can be had at home depot or Lowes. And should take you 30 mins from start to finish to get it figured out. EDIT: While a bad sensor can cause that, I've always measured my oil at the output line from the transmission, not in the pan.

See that's where I was wondering if this is related to Injector size. I do believe that popping 75's to 330 bar would post an issue, unlike my 100's or 150s per say. My truck fired right up at 17F without grids. Which has me tossed. You are running 100's or 150's?

Don't regret it. There's nothing much about it on the other forums. I haven't seen any issues myself, but Maybe that is a mixture of fueling and commanding based on a programmer? I haven't had any issues yet and mine fired right up without grids at 17F out. But That maybe also because of the smarty?

This article should cover everything. But I would first try following the "Shorthand Diagnostics" first. Either way I suspect your dropping the valve body. Slipping or starting in 2nd or 3rd? You need to get out a line pressure gauge and test at the accumulator. This article I wrote below is good for finding the accumulator port, you'll need it to get your line pressures. And there's actually 5 test ports on the transmission and you'll need to test all of them to see what your pressures are at and at which ports have pressure. I'm suspecting a valve body issue or you smoked a clutch pack. I didn't talk about all 5, but I should write one up.

My Fuel pump relay (on the lower left side of the PDC) gets gnarly hot when I'm running the truck. You may not notice this as an issue if your using it for the horn as the relay isn't running when the engines running like the FP relay is for the VP-44. Also I believe that that throws a code, it dies throw a hard code for me on my 99 when I forget to put it back into the PDC.

This is really interesting to note. As for me the only difference I've noticed is that my S03 burns almost clean. I see very little to no smoke, Unlike before where she would roll coal constantly. This truck you need to make it roll coal, and she'll do it. The pedal is very forgiving about coal and spool up. The shifting is more firm as well. This is is why I'm still puzzled about the effects of raised pop pressure on the truck. I'd like to pick your brain about writing an article about raising pop pressure for the Smarty trucks. I feel like people will find that useful, especially for guys like me who still run the S03 with larger injectors.

I would check your line pressures first before assuming. You may find that you can extend your trannies life a bit by raising it. Here's the article I wrote for it.

Hello Guys, Pepsi here with another thorough article. I have grabbed this information from over a dozen threads and posts across about 6 websites. I'm going to write this up, and surmised it where applicable to try and make sense of this. Hopefully you guys will learn something from this. And as usual if you guys have something to add fell free to tell me so I can add it in. PEPSI'S NOTES: This can apply loosely to the 46re/rh series, and the early 48re series that are not actuator controlled. if you have an APPS sensor and a TV cable on your 48re then you can use this to follow loosely. However 48re line pressures are generally higher on the acceptable scale. So first things first. We need to do some testing on your current transmission set up. You should set up a table like this: Condition Stock(Unmodified) Modified (1st adjustment) Final 50% Throttle shift @RPM WOT Shift @RPM Line Pressure @ Idle PSI Line Pressure @ 1,800 PSI (Get both 3rd and 4th gear) PSI (Add in turns of the screw) Line pressure @ 2,700 PSI (Get both 3rd and 4th gear) NOTE: All 12V engines should have WOT shifting around 2,400 to 2,500 rpm All 24V engines should have WOT shifting around 2,800 to 3,000 rpm When filling out this chart I chose 2,700rpm because you want to see where your line pressure is when your just before the shift. Line pressures should be measured in DRIVE. You will want to measure them at both idle in Drive, and driving down the road, weather you use 3rd or 4th gear you should measure your line pressure across the rpm range from 1,600rpm to 2,400rpm. OEM should be between 55-65 psi at idle. A built auto should be in the 70-80 psi at idle. When testing the truck you want to have the truck in D and around 1800 rpm. OEM is between 65-75 psi. 47/48re's are between 90-95. Built autos I will expand on this below. So what do we gather from this information you ask? Several things. The health of the transmission and the line pressures at which your working with. Hopefully if you spend $5,000 for a built transmission your not seeing stock line pressures. As for your line pressures they are dictated by a few things. The number of clutches, the types of fluid used, and holding power are all dictated slightly differently. So as stated earlier OEM max line pressure as measured in the middle test port is around 90-96 psi. Regardless of weather your in 3rd or in 4th you need to monitor your line pressures. Why do you ask? The overdrive units are weak, and because the 3rd gear clutch pack is a common failure point. See the 3rd gear is a shifting clutch so it takes the abuse on the 2-3 shift, Not to mention the fact that your usually turning over 1800 rpm's under full boost. When driving around its best to try and let the transmission to select the right gear. it's better to be in the right gear then run around in the wrong one. Approxx Holding power for 3rd and 4th is below. At 90 psi of line pressure your clutches will star to slip at about 250 HP/500 lbs of torque Bumping this to 135psi gives you about 375 HP/750 lbs of torque. Bumping to 150 psi gets you well into the 450HP range. Bumping 165-185 psi is good for 500HP applications. SOMETHING TO NOTE: Now lets assume that were still at 135psi, but the clutch count was also upgraded to (6) total friction disks which itself equates to an increase of 150%. Combined with the increased pressure we now have a total capacity increase of 230% for an ultimate slip rating of roughly 575 HP or 1,150 ft lbs. Long term reliable usage, that equates to 460 HP 920 ft/lbs of torque. So take from this that if your adjusting your line pressures you should know whats inside your transmission, as there's no need to be pushing that kind of pressure with upgraded clutch counts. FLUIDS-------------------------- Now fluids also play a role in this. Transmission fluid is another easy upgrade but it is difficult to quantify how much torque capacity is increased with the various fluids on the market. However, synthetic fluids such as ATF+4 perform the worst when it comes to preventing slippage in the transmission, Dexron 3 is slightly better than ATF+4, then comes the Ford Type F. This is about the best red fluid you can run for high friction/low slippage. Hydraulic fluid seems to be the best fluid at reducing slippage although it is generally high viscosity so not friendly at 100% hydraulic fluid for cold climates or daily drivers trying to maintain peak fuel economy. RAISING LINE PRESSURES-------------------------- Now comes the fun part. Raising line pressure can increase longevity, and not to mention better shifting. However understand that there are risks associated with this. If you do raise your line pressures make sure you have a aftermarket 2nd gear strut. As it tends to bend when you get close to its limits which are about 120 psi. For most of us its well worth it to invest in one as well. WARNING ! : If you don't know if you have an upgraded strut remember to keep your pressure below 120psi. Or you need to drop the valve body and verify. Stock Band strut looks like this(and yes its bent) Below Is what an upgraded 2nd gear band looks like. OK So how does one raise line pressure? Well technically there are two different adjustments you can make inside the valve body as it is. Lets look at this photo first. In this photo we are under the Drivers side of the truck, and looking at the valve body. There are two set screws here. WARNING ! : I advise you turn these screws slowly and make small adjustments. Its much better to make small adjustments and drop your pan a dozen times then turn it a few larger turns and then find you blow out a seal. The 3rd gear drum seal can and will blow out under high pressure. And If your unsure where you stand then you risk doing more damage then good here. SO First you need to find yourself a 3/16ths Allen key and cut it up like this. Top is the key, the bottom is the modified key. OK----NOW its time to start screwing. The LEFT set screw that has the pressure plate and orange spring(in the photo) controls your line pressure. This you turn counter clockwise to raise pressure, and clockwise to lower it. Generally in a stock transmission you should see about 3-4 PSI per 1 revolution of the set screw.(ie 360 degrees) Now with a modified valve body you should be very careful about adjusting this. Some built auto's and shift kits can actually raise it closer to 8-10 psi per revolution. NOTE ! : When raising this line pressure, you should also turn the TV set screw about ½ turn as well. The RIGHT set screw controls downshifting, and passing gear. If your truck doesn't downshift early enough when you coast to a stop, you should turn this screw in about 1 turn. This screw is a slack-stop for the TV lever. The farther you turn-in this screw, the higher minimum TV lever position or throttle valve pressure regardless of external TV cable slack. When adjusting this screw you will notice downshifting sooner when you put your foot back to idle. WARNING ! : Its advised that you not turn this more then 2 Full turns clockwise! For those who are technically inclined that is .800" of an inch. When adjusting your TV cable you want to make sure it is adjusted so your WOT shifts are within your engine specs laid out at the beginning of this article. If you are running a programmer make sure that you go through and make your adjustments again especially if it is a smarty for example, and you know it will change the shift points. <<What this accomplishes is that it allows you to still have full range of motion of your TV cable for passing power, but it raises your minim line pressure, which will control your low rpm and low throttle shifting. it will also delay your shifts out a bit. A few years ago there was a spring mod that accomplishes the same thing, but unlike that mod this sets the preload on the TV Valve >> Testing and Adjustment--------------------------------- Now that you have made some adjustments, its time to hook up a line pressure gauge and get driving. What you see here is the middle test port. This is the accumulator port and has line pressure in it in all 4 forward gears. What you need is a 1/8npt grease gun hose and run it to a 1/8 tubing to get a 0-300 psi gauge. I used a 0-300 psi gauge from Home Depot, and ran it up the outside and through the passenger side of the window. I watched for my line pressures and that it stayed above the 150 psi mark when I was about 1,500 rpm or above. When I did my pressures for Bill at DTT he specified 3rd gear O/D off and that the line pressures were above 150psi at 1,700rpm. So what are we looking for? Idle in Drive should be between 75-90 psi. This idle PSI isn't as important as its the speed. Driving down the road you want to see between 120 and 160psi generally. But it depends on what your HP goals are. Also if your running a OEM stock 2nd gear band strut. If you are then you MUST stay below 120spi. REMEMBER ! : Its important to remember the number of turns that the two screws in the valve body take. When you fill out your first Modified chart, remember the number of turns on the two screws, and divide them by the increase. So for example Assume your at 3 psi per turn, So if your at 150psi at 1,800 rpm. Turning the line pressure up to 170 would be as follows. Follow the math here. Now to calculate your actual PSI increase per turn you need to take your modified (1st pass) results from your stock results. You can see the Warning below as that is how I calculated it. 170psi-150psi=20psi increase. the divide that by 3.5psi and you get 6 turns. WARNING ! : Aftermarket Valve bodies have been reported to be closer to 8psi at the turn of the screw. One poster turned his screw 6 turns and went from 150 to slightly over 200psi! Now sometimes this is due to additional clutches inside the packs, sometimes its the springs themselves as well. Either way its better to adjust slowly. 200psi-150psi=50psi increase. so 50psi divided by 6 turns = 8.3psi per turn. WARNING ! : Its advised to keep your max line pressures in the 170psi or less. Anything much over 175 there is a significant increase in blowing out seals on the 3rd gear drum. Table for about where you want to be for line pressures at 1,800 rpm Line Pressure HP MAX TQ MAX 90 psi 250 HP 500 lbs 135 psi 375 HP 750 lbs 150 psi 450 HP 900 lbs 165 psi 500 HP 1,000 lbs 180 psi 600 HP 1,200 lbs 200 psi TRACK OR STREET ONLY CONCLUSION----------------------- Now your mileage may vary. Transmission longevity maybe extended, shift points fine tuned. But my advice is to stick around these line pressures and you may yourself see some changes in your trucks performance. Hopefully for the long run. View full Cummins article

I'm not so sure Do you have any information to back this up? I'm unsure since that the timing pressure curve has to go up exponentially as pressure rises. He's swinging some big injectors 250hp injectors IIRC. I'm thinking that stock maybe his injectors were 300 bar, or maybe 310. Although I believe Jkidd mentioned in a previous thread that pop pressures on 250's is about 315 BAR stock? I have been wondering this, but I've had several injector shops agree with the timing bump theory. I've been told that you can get an injector to put out 100hp's worth of fuel, but you can have different internals that will make it different. But the one things that they have stated is that the time to build the pop pressure from 300 bar to 330 bar is much higher then from 280 to 300. The fluid compression is what I've been told is the major issue.

I would try to bump your timing up to 18 or so degrees. At 330BAR your about 3 degrees retarded, so your timing is really about 13 Degrees not 16. It maybe worth pushing it forward a few degrees to change your timing. As even my Smarty doesn't go farther then 18.25* Questions. 1. Is this under boosted applications only? Does the bucking get worse as the boost goes up, or is it rpm dependent? 2. do you hear any mechanical timing knock? 3. Does the thumping go away if you lay off the throttle enough to kill the boost?(Like maybe a wrist pin is going south) 4. Have you considered putting in a lock up switch and testing to see if it happens in 2nd as well? 5. What are your line pressures in the transmission as well? Trying the rule out TC shudder, as my truck was bucking from the torque reversals hitting the TC as low line pressures. I'm not entirely set on the idea that this is strictly injector related since it was happening before as well, however, I did go through this before with my older injectors as Mike can tell you, I had a load based pinging that was due to an injector that was acting up. I was able to diagnose it by fooling the truck into 3 cylinder high idle and then swapping the injectors till the thumping went away. When DAP looked at it the pintel failed on the injector.

Was this on both ground cables when cranking for example? I was going from the grid heater tops for mine. @Mopar1973Man would be able to tell you, But I believe that's passing?

I've never heard of them.

Its a Day early but happy Birthday Bud! I guess I'm the youngest here I'm 29. I'll be 30 in a few weeks!

Do you have a wiring diagram for this? I second this. I just wish i knew about lubricating the doors when I had it out!

I did mine in an afternoon start to finish in about 7 or 8 hours. if you can borrow a car it maybe best to do it over tow 4 hours afternoons when its warm out. I pulled mine and I had a good amount of debris in mine, but I replaced my heater core when my ac evaporator died. Its best to buy both and follow the short method to pull the dash back like Mike has. Another option is to run on MAC A/C with the relay pulled for the compressor. Then you can get some decent heat in the cab. I may also recommend a 200F tstat too, the extra 10-15degress will cook me on regular vent settings on high i can still see 150F air.

I went with ARP 425's, Best to have your head and valves ported while its off. The exhaust side is quite restrictive, and O ringing the head if your pushing massive boost. I woulds go with Cummins, or I think @dieselautopower may also sell them, they have allot of stuff.

I expected my pop pressure o go longer then 30,000 miles from 300 bar to 280. But if I was to do it over again, I would get the 100's again, but have DAP pop them to 320-325 and after they settle in they should be around 310-315.. Stock at 300 bar, I think they settled to 290 quickly after adjusting,. then dropped another 10 bar over 20,000 miles or so. Even so this should be considered a maintenance item, @Mopar1973Man what does BOSCH say is the mileage interval for popping stock injectors?

If you go with a quad you can go bigger and dial back, much easier hen on my smarty s03. Although high pop pressure will work. it seems to me that smoke and lag go up as pop pressure falls off.. Like for me at 280 bar my 100's were worn Mike and I were discussing his on the phone last night.

I used grease gun hose because its is much more sturdy for being under the truck, compared to the nylon tubing.

Can i ask what shop did this work, I have a spare VB I may send off for a tune up and swap.

Yea somehow I didn't think that I would get away with that hahaha