pepsi71ocean

can you dig up two new batteries, or two used ones from another place to see if that fixes it.It sounds to me that your batteries are done for. you said they were reading 11.9v and if they are not deep cycle (meaning you can kill them and bring e'm back (like marine batteries) i would say that is your problem there.

the greyish smoke is a timing knock from the pump being dry. did you do the blot test with the oil to see, sometimes its harder to notice if there is fuel in the oil unless a blot test is done. Sounds like a external leak, but im not ready to write off the VP-44 its self yet. do the baby powder test and confirm, next you should tighten the fittings on the engine and going to the back of the head. Have you done anything strange lately, noticed anything unusual about the engine. When the front seal on my Vp-44 went it was subtle took 6 months for me to figure it out, but now it hard starts in the cold, and when level but not down hill, when its above 40f its fine.

sounds like a drain on the batteries.do this, pull the negatives off the battery and attach a volt tester between the negative lead and negative terminal, and see if it is drawing voltage, it should draw some but i feel it is drawling alot of mA.Set the volt meter to either 10 or 20 Amp setting and see what it is reading.If it is reading more then say 20-40 mA's then the car has a parasitic drain. Might be best to find out first.If it is then its time to go relay by relay to see if it is stuck open, ort maybe your grid's are sticking open as well, never know.

i have been told by DTT that basically to just tow with it, the trans i have will handle anything under the sun, you just need to use common sense with it.if its lugging or shifting lock it out, don't give it an excuse to burn up, powering up a hill in 4th will not affect it if it is built right.

you said blueish white smoke?Did you check for fuel in oil? It hard starts up hill but not down hill, did you check for fuel leaks using baby powder?When up hill plug your truck in and see if the problem goes away.Try starting your truck once it bleeds out and runs good then turn around and shut it off, wait 10 mins and perform test again if it starts up fine then it is not a computer issue but a fuel leak.You can pull your valve cover, if its leaking past the injector you will know (it will be obvious), if not suspect the front of the VP-44 causing fuel to leak past the front of the pump into the crank case.

being brand new i would put a valve body and good torque converter in it and be done with it. The main issue of stock rebuilds comes from both QC and the fact they never upgraded crap. You don't need anything for this just a good shift kit to raise the line pressures up so that your transmission will handle the massive torque put out. Replacing the stock TC with a billet single disk will help lessen slippage and in turn give you cooler temps which will allow you to prolong transmission life. A good billet single disk will handle your towing (if its infrequent, and heavy), things like that 6,000lbs boat is nothing, im talking 10,000lbs and up, your billet single should be good. (once again infrequent a few times a year and such no problem). I would look into a good billet single disk torque converter and a valve body from DTT (or Goerend etic) Make sure if you go with any company to get the billet 2nd gear accumulator, because one of the major issues is slippage of fluid through the 2nd gear accumulator. Once again there is no need for over kill, unless your like me and have a 5th wheel that rolls across the scales at 15,000lbs unloaded:lmao:

Good to hear, I think DAP does well.Jacob will do you good mate. Hope to hear good news, and it reminds me to make sure i get one that is rebuilt with a new computer when i can (afford) mine.

anything specific they are working on? Im wondering my self as i have never felt any TM on my 99, but i have driven a 2002 and can feel it in 1st gear.

If you turbo has a soft tube going to the wastegate then its a HX, if it is hard piping then its a HY..... All that aside your a 99, they didn't swap the turbo's over until you hit the modified Tm trucks with 235HP pumps on them. the stock HX-35 should do you good. if not then a hybrid is in order.

how does your truck handle the torque being on 6?

So i was on the phone with the service department........ Me: My obd2 scanner will not read my check engine light codes, what is the cost to hook up the DRB3 to my truck? Them: what kind of scanner is it? Me: A Smarty. Them: Sir we cannot hook up our DRB3 tool until you return your obd scanner to stock. Me: ???????But the programmer won't even connect to read the codes.... Them: Well then the fee is 125 plus tax, and then your truck must be at stock before we will hook it up to read codes. Me: (Screw this), Thanks have a good day. Them: (hang up, before i got done saying thanks....) --- Update to the previous post... So last night mike and i went over the wiring diagram again, and then it hit me, when the shop installed the Voltage regulator they never reattached the Ignition 5v lead. So mike and i went over the DTT instructions, and while very vague it doesn't say anywhere to physically cut the 5v lead to the PCM, so last night i went out in a pair of shorts, slippers and a coat to look and sure enough it was cut. So i today cut the 5 volt lead and re spliced the 5v lead to the PCm (even though it was half ___), and sure enough problem 1 went away. This just means that the whole time the PCM was going dead because we would pull anything connecting the HVAC system to the PCM @ the AC relay switch thing that goes to the PCM, its a 5v lead thus the only other source of voltage going to the PCM. problem 2 of the smarty not connecting to the truck, i am still puzzled on, but now knowing the truck is fixable i have moved to now permanently fixing the issue with No. 1 and will work on No.2 shortly, along with the other issues of cleaning up the engine room wiring mess. Today i started that by cutting off the grounds leaving the cab (off the gauges and such) and ran them to a new ground on the drivers side ground. I have the two gauge grounds going to there directly with a 3rd wire that will go to a tack strip eventually, but for now it will serve its only use which is to now remove some of the 20 + wires chasing through the firewall. Tomorrow my brother and i will start soldering the wires together, and getting that problem eliminated, the first problem of the smarty not working i will (once the truck is back together) will take it out to either the school, or pepboys etic and see if their code scanner will hook up, if it does and talks to the truck and such i'll move to the next step, back to Bob Wagner to see what he thinks. When i spoke to Bob yesterday he seemed to think it was a grounding issue, but as for the fix to the shorting on the dash he was unsure.

This number sounds about correct, the DDRP runs about 2.5 times the stock volume. If you don't have larger fuel lines i would move up to them now, when you add your pre-filter. a good F/W separator will do you good. your flow restriction to the Vp-44 will be through the fuel lines from the tank to your VP-44, through the stock housing. good negative side pre-filter shouldn't be more then 1-2 psi at the most, he might see 16-17 psi at idle instead of 18 he sees now, as long as his normal operating psi is above 14.5psi he will be fine:thumbup2:

it sputtered but did it die:tongue: this usually is doen to confirm for a worn VP that is effected by the high side. sounds like a shot computer, IMO im really disheartened that this is turning into such a no-go issue, its possible that it is a bum VP-44, happens. But soaking the VP-44 is cool water fixes the issue is a clear sign. The 17psi is acceptable, even my worn VP-44 will start right up with 17 psi, most VP-44's are fine when in the range of 15-21psi, 21 being the high side. But the pump should not start at all with 17psi i think unless there is some other issue at hand(according to highlighted sentance? also actually get a code scanner and pull codes, because the dash is unreliable when telling you codes are present. If all else fails use tell them you got the 216,

Im working on finishing the write up but there is a FASS writeup under general Cummins in the article section. I have a HD series that is running on 95 gears. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/256-the-ultimate-fass-guide its not done yet, but i will have a video showing the setup as it is.

Yes i have thus far. I started cleaning all of the grounds to the truck from the batteries.However i have since noted another nominally in which the No Bus error happens when you pull the fuses from the blower motor relay and the blower motor fuse in the engine room, replace them and the problem goes away.

I know that both Air Dogg and FASS don't have filters that filter as low as the one on our engines do. the Stock replacement F/W separator is 144 micron, which is way to big, thus why some use the Baldwin 1212. Where is AHD when you need him:lol:

i believe i heard its either 2micron or 5 micron. see fuel cleanness is not as much as an issue as it with any CR engine. our injectors operate at 4,500psi, the CR engine because they are a single common rail operate closer to 20,000psi, so anythign that can be an issue like water, rust or gunk can really have an impact.

yea but how much is your 1,300 dollar VP-44 worth? 5 bucks worth of protection?

its not that the ddrp will not handle them, its just not a rated pump. the ddrp flows a bit more then the OEM one, i think about 40gph, rather the FASS 95 is 95gph. i know of people who run the ddrp running mods but the reliability issue of the fass ddrp is questionable. But i don't think the DDRP is the blame. I think its because there is no filter set up for the DDRP like there is for the FASS. this i am inclined to agree with. Replace with at least 3/8's line if not 1/2 inch. 1/2 inch is over kill but it seems to be the standard now a days. this looks good but why not just get a real set up like a GDP kit with a Baldwin 1212 on it?

well today took a change for better or worse.We tried once again grounding out the HVAC control unit, and yet no results. Removed the Chime box, and removed ABS module, still nothing.The got on the horn with Mike and we cross checked the OBD2 voltages and guess what my White wire Pink strip is running high. Mikes Voltages are ~3.44v on the W/P line and im 4.22v.The i pulled the wiring loom apart in the engine room and checked for resistance or even for a contact to ground none, resistance was .2 (withing limits), then cross checked the other two parts of the wiring harness and same results.then while retesting another theory we pulled the power leads to the blow motor and the truck tripped again. so then we pulled the fuses in the engine room, apparently pulling them causes said error, and now the question is WHY!:banghead:So now were back to square one, but now this only deepens the puzzle even more as to what is going on in this truck.I'm praying that i find the problem soon or im liable to ship the truck to mike and let him play with it:lol:The plan tomorrow is to run a solid separate lead from the fuse box to the blower motor and bypass it in the stock wiring harness. If this doesn't fix the problem then im going to go diving onto the understand to look for anything that is out of place.

try this for me, run your truck get it nice and hot then pull the fuse for the Air dog, and see if the truck starts and stays running.if it stays runnign but then fails to stay running when plugged in you have a screwed up VP-44, but we can then eliminate the fuel drainback issue, and leave it to a VP-44 internal problem.Im really disheartened to hear this was a DAP Vp-44, i know Jkidd sells good stuff, i know lemons always make their way to market.

This is a good question, a DDRP is a good pump when you put the right pre filter in front of it. many people make the mistake of not adding a good filter in front of it to trap the crap and then they want to know why it dies on them. As a result i don't see why say DDRP won't hold up to maybe 75HP injectors but with 100's and a programmer that i wouldn't give unless i saw the fuel pressure. My FASS 95 with 60HP injectors and a smarty can drap my FP from 17 to 14 at WOT.

as you go up in elevation you need to run more boost to get the same HP out of the engine. this is why Supercharged engines were perfered over turbo powered engines durning WW2. engine like the Allison 1710 were monsters down low but once you got up there was such a loss that they suffered in the arena about 25,000 feet. This is where supercharged two statge engines like the Merlin 61 came in. See if he is at say 7,029 feet he would build 3 less psi then he would at ground level. regardless of the fuel he could produce. So if his engine can produce at sea level a maximum of 30psi, up at 7,029 feet he would be at 27 psi. which could mean he has more fuel then he can burn, thus EGT's go way up. But if he was to run compound turbos he could build that 3 psi loss back and then more. the other option is to run a turbo large enough to compress the air, even though he would still be at a loss of 3psi, in theory if he ran a larger turbo for example an HX40, he could build 33psi and (then the waste gate opens up), but then at altitude he then is only building 30 due to the loss of pressure. this is why VGT turbos are much better, they can help recoup the parasitic loss up at altitude, by closing the exhaust down even more to try and build more boost pressure. now there will be arguments about how visible this effect is, but my guess is that if he is hauling a good load it will become very visible at altitude, as he will have more fuel then he can handle.

yes, but he is also at altitufe so he needs to be more aware of his fuel to air ratio. correct, it is a HX40 compressor with a HX-35 exhaust housing. Currently your HY has a 9cm the HX 35 has a 12 and the HX-40 is a 14cm. the problem is you will smoke bad if you went to an HX-40 until the turbo lit, and then it would smoke. The HX will give you better spool and the air flow you need. 100's would be more then enough. with those 33's i would think a smarty would do you more good when combined with some lower hp injectors like 75's. but if you swap to a 40/35 you will get better airflow and could run 100's, but be warily of pyro's. if you add a programmer on there.

a HX-35 would be fine for 100hp injector. Unless you are towing heavy and adding a programmer.Then i would move up to a HX40/35 which will give you more pressure and boost with the same spool up. But a HX-35 turbo is good till 350-400HP depending on how it is achieved.