pepsi71ocean

So over on the CF this guy was talking about getting his block acid bathed, is there anything good to come out of this?

Your telling me this is the Fuel pump relay on the drivers side of the engine compartment in the fuse box right? and it just sends electricity to the Pump so i can cut and splice a relay into there and be fine yes?i would just like to be dam sure before i go about cutting wires in an engine compartment, don't want to make some mistake and cut the one that requires like 2v or something:banghead:

let me know what your headlight temperatures are im intrigued to see if it burns hooter and if so by how much.

there is a different set of assemblies the sport assembly and the oem one. i would find the sport assembly if i was going to run a bright box.IMO i bought some bulbs that were about 30% brighter then stock ones, and i just turn my dash lights down. Of course running in the snow during a snow storm is different.I have always wondered about the bright box my self but never bother to try it as i was afraid i would have to rewire my headlights after burning the wires out.

you need to drill out your basket. when i ran the OEM canister with my FASS is saw a similar issue as you are having, my problem was the fuel pump was sucking the fuel faster then the fuel could come into the basket, luckily the fass returns most of the fuel into the tank, right into the basket actually.2. i wouldn't have heated any fuel lines up, went through that mistake as well, the lines lost their regitity and ended up increasing restriction under wot.3. i would run larger fuel lines and if possible i have found that USCG approved diesel fuel line does not get smaller over time when run against a larger pump like a fass95.

i used the cig- lighter wire, i tapped into it for the hot lead for the pyro and the trans temp.As for the light side i tapped it to the dimmer switch, then set the dimmer low as possible and then tuned each gauge so i could get the desired effect, the top gauge is the dimmest because it is the closest, then the bottom one is as bright as the dash.

where is this red/lt green wire you speak of? is it voltage specific or ca it be cut and leeds attached to a kill switch?

regular is 3.77, premium is 4.01, diesel is still 3.99And i hope it stats that way. or goes down.:banghead:

tell me what the initsal cost is, is it hard to do, etic, or do you have some links, im interested to see if there is any real benefit to propane injection as a form of MPG boost.

hey mate what kind of MPG do you get with the propane injection?

on the 6.7's i can see that, but from my understanding a fuel pressure gauge for the low side is not as necessary as a rail gauge, because the rail pressure is a refection on the fuel psi from the lift pump.then again having not really touched CR's i can only say that fron what i read good fuel filtration is a must on these trucks.

now that is a good one. I think its between 15-25,000psi, i would ask AH64ID, he has a sweet setup. your rail pressure will fluctuate, if your rail pressure drops below a certain psi typically you will have performance issues but will only notice it when towing heavy.I like the Danin gauges shame you can't really find them anymore though.

Were still pushing 3.99 for diesle and 3.xx(not sure lol) for gas.But i wish i could some how fix my dam truck this 15-17mpg stuff is killing me.

i would be more concerned with trans temp(for auto trans), an exhaust temp gauge, and a rail pressure gauge (fuel pressure is irreverent on a CR, its more about rail pressure)If you need a 4th gauge then i would say boost or back pressure gauge depending on if you like to see what your motor is running.

i would take the truck apart in stages and clean it and then use POR-15 on it. this is my summer plan, but who knows with all the other projects going on around here.

i thouhg i rememebred a similar thread that i posted in about this but maybe i am mistaken.I would remove the turbo from the motor because of the RISK of runaway engine, all it takes is to blow that turbo seal and good bye engine, nothing will stop her now.

you can often tell where the fuel is coming from because that area will be washed clean,You said this started after you installed new injectors, Did you look to see if the injector rings sealed properly.Most of the time however hard starting when it is temperature based and like you said starting issues and fuel in oil is one of 2 things.1. VP-44 front seal,2. Injector O ring, not the crossover tube.I have this same issue in the cold, below 45F). And since it is the summer i have not needed to do much, just keep changing oil.

now i have a team of top men (me myself and my brother) designing a kill switch and i came up with a good sneaky solution.the accelerator pedal, because on our second gen's you can lift the pedal up, its as simple as having a push switch that pushes on and then push it again to turn it off, and then afix that to the wall behind the ACC pedal. then when you get into your truck you simply lift the pedal up till it hits the firewall, and then you can start the truck.

did anyone try this here http://www.madselectronics.com/DownloadS03A.html it says " Smarty S-03. Ver. 1.22B Data 2.07A Same as version 1 but with the TSB for extreme cold climates and driveablity enhancements for winter fuel. ( For automatic trans. only )" Im wondering if this would change anything?

these updates sound interesting but can someone explain how this anti-theft workds if for example i have set on something other then SW0? Also anyone see the 3rd ione down Smarty S-03. Ver. 1.22B Data 2.07A Same as version 1 but with the TSB for extreme cold climates and driveablity enhancements for winter fuel. ( For automatic trans. only )

im fairly sure it came out when they moved to the common rail diesels, because i think that midl year in 2002 somewhere.

check for turbo play as well.But no anything you spray into there will also go into the motor, if those grid heaters turn ojn you could get a loud boom, or an explosion.Its wise not to clean it inside the system.

AFAICR, exhaust brakes were not a dealer option until 2004, i mean you could buy the jake kit and have the dealer install it but it wasn't really going to do much for us automatic guys, until the 48re came out with its lockable valve body. the 48re fixed all the weak spots of the 47re's. The 48re's are capable of lock up i think. This is why most guys who have a exhaust brake at a minimal do a shift kit/VB, a billet TC and a billet input shaft, but this is for mostly stock engines. Obviously if you take a 500HP motor and try to jake it with a lightly tuned tranny (like above) you'll smash it all up. Goerend is the only company i know of that has a trans that is capable of lock up in all gears. The new Air pacbrakes i think i read somewhere said that you can flash into the memory a program that changed the lock up valves of the exhaust brake if you have a 48re, and as such can control shifting and lock up when it is in enabled. Of course mike if i wasn't ready to pass out and sleep ide call you up and tell you have getting my tires aligned caused me to drop a steady 100^F on my egt's, and how my mpg went up from ~16.2 to ~17.4:lol:

got my injectors back and they all poped and flowed very closely, the shop said they haven't scene injectors so close, even closer then BOSCH specified.so its back to the drawing board.

with a billet TC and a billet input shaft you can make locked shifts. although this is at a minimum.