LorenS

Granted I don't have the air separation feature, but I sure like my in-line setup! Not an inline pump, but the DDRP on the inside of frame along with the pre-strainer, then stock filter. Can't imagine a manufacturer would suggest outside of frame rail!

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I'm glad I'm not in northern MN!

Kansas City should not be colder than the mountains of ID! Zero right now, high of 1 tomorrow, Tuesday morning supposed to be -10.

I don't look to government for my morals, even something like headlights. My Adrenaline is not EPA/CARB approved, either. Nor is putting bigger injectors, a different turbo, and maybe even the lift pump.

As does Windows. I had already downloaded it to my computer, missed how to upload to the Library or appropriate page. Whoops, Big blue button at the bottom of page!

I think that this is the link to what our trucks would require, the above link is to 9006. https://www.gtrlighting.com/gtr-lighting-ultra-2-led-bulbs-9007?quantity=1

Since this applies to many Generations, I assume this belongs here... Hopefully an administrator can snag the PDF and put it in the 'downloads' section. http://jhdiesel.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Dodge-Cummins-Bosch.pdf Notice that Page 3 shows Bosch standard for most of our 2nd Gen injectors to be no less than 300 Bar and no higher than 314 Bar when new. I also noticed the RV275 injectors are paired with a IPVR16X pump. I read elsewhere that that pump has larger plungers than our SO and HO pumps, but also may defuel earlier than our pickup truck models. I also can't believe the number of different part numbers for injectors, like that an 01 with an automatic is different than same year with a 5-speed. I'd love to know the differences, but they aren't listed here. What led me into researching this (again) was a conversation my dad had with the owner of his old truck (2000 dually, HX35, 6-speed, NOT an HO). Not sure what injectors. The SO pump finally took a dump and a 16X was installed by his local service shop (primarily tractor repairs in that part of the state!). He only drives the truck with a trailer behind it, either feeding cattle, or taking them to their doom in a 35' gooseneck trailer (130 miles round trip). He said the performance is great, but I have no idea what it would be like for a "street racer" guy. No codes that I heard, or at least no CEL. Very interesting to see how many models of VP44 are applicable to ISB automotive style units (I assume there may be others for singe speed operation like generators).

Whoah! I just bought two DEKA Gold batteries for around $270. Granted, they aren't AGM.

Bulbs won't fit?! I'm sure they're right that there could be a fitment issue, but it's surprising.

The part number S538XF yields no results at ANZO's website. http://www.anzousa.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=S538XF&Search= I think they are, in fact, these lights: http://www.anzousa.com/dodge-ram-1500-94-01-ram-2500-3500-94-02-crystal-h-l-chrome-amber-w-corner-light-2pc.html If you have Prime, can save $25 at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/USA-111068-Crystal-Headlight-Assembly/dp/B0038B1H2I That is the Crystal version of the housings I purchased. I bought the 111067, which have more black in them since I knew I was going Projectors and also have a black grille after a meeting with a shopping cart... They aren't anything to write home about, but for the price would buy them again. Most importantly, NO LEAKS! Good fitment (though that's as much on Dodge's QC as the housing maker's).

With all the tunes available for the XZT, I'm kind of surprised there aren't any for different injectors, at least up to +50 or +75. It may not be 'perfect' like the Adrenaline can do, but something!

Asphaltenes: https://www.fuelox.com/2018/03/07/the-new-fuel-contaminent-asphaltenes/ Tar about 2 microns in size.

This webpage says the magic temperature for diesel oxidation concern is 66C or ~150F. https://www.powermag.com/understanding-diesel-fuel-storage-requirements/ I have certainly seen the (asphaltenes?) that Mike mentioned. Fuel filter COATED with black carbon stuff, and after not many miles. The DDRP relocated to the frame certainly helped that by opening the overflow valve, but my fuel temps have been high, no doubt. I should have this fixed by Memorial Day, hopefully long before.

I have my Adrenaline set to hit high idle at 30 seconds. Is this a reasonable time? Is the high idle supposed to engage with the truck in gear and foot on brake? That was surprise at a stop light yesterday morning! How long should it take to reach the 1200 RPM? I notice mine jumps really fast to around 1000 RPM then wavers up and down as it slowly increases idle speed to 1200 RPM. Is this normal? Fuel pressure is ~18 PSI the whole time. This happens whether it's 50 degrees or 5 degrees outdoors. It just occurred to me the up and down idle speed may be related to the grid heaters drawing power and pulling down the engine. Is THAT normal? It's not a matter of a couple of seconds, it's like 5-10 before it creeps back up. This occurs even with my truck plugged in for 3 hours. @Quadzilla Power

Redhead: $416 + $225 core Blue Top: $300 + $150 core Pretty sure I know which of these two gets my money, no matter what Doug Leno wrote in the TDR. Mike Nelson says they're good, and I save $$. No brainer.

The lower part on the passenger side stays amazingly clear if I have timer set too early!

I ran a 200 thermostat for a year or so (30k miles). The gauge would move on really hot days, and my OBD Bluetooth would show I was around 210. Swapped to 190 and gauge doesn't move. Our temp gauges are more like dummy lights. Swapping thermostats is so easy, I really should make that a task I do every spring and fall. This is if they raise cetane by removing the longer hydrocarbon chains at the refinery. By chemically altering the cetane number (via additive) the fuel energy density doesn't change.

That may be true. However these heating elements have a really long life. They may have a higher Watt Density than an electric over or water heater element, but those sure do last a long time getting used daily.

Based on the Bud price, that'd be about $18/hour equivalent now!

Last winter I was in southern Minnesota and I definitely could tell the difference between plugged in all night versus for just an hour. But, those were the only options I considered as I didn't have a waterproof timer and wasn't about to wake up extra early to save the Comfort or Holiday Inn $1... Are both legs hot, or is it 240V to ground? Our 240V plugs here use both legs hot, just opposite phases. Each is 120V (110 to 120V) to ground. 60 Hz, not that it matters for resistive loads.

In my book 3 hours of heat at near 0F would be a good use of 1.8 kW-hr, or about twenty to thirty cents. In fact, I do that most every night I know it'll be below 30 in the morning because otherwise I'm not even at 120F by the time I hit the freeway on ramp. I live in KC. I don't start my truck and go back inside unless I'm watching it like a hawk!

That only works on one side of the nut unless you're reducing friction with the air.

When I installed this I had a nearly full tank so it basically self primed and then I completed the final half turn of the filter. After that I did the "bump the starter" and let it run. If a guy wanted to get fancy, that mount has a second outlet that I suppose could be used to suck the air out.

The assembly I put on has negligible pressure drop, quite possibly less than the in-line especially after picking up any debris. It's massive compared the inline. My fuel pressure gauge didn't show any less pressure upon the switch to new setup. I like that come time to change it I don't have to mess with fuel clamps in the rain on the side of the road, just screw on a new canister. And, it will take a LOT more gunk to get to that point. I think you're correct. It was certainly that style, possibly the exact part number.