CSM

Resourcefulness is something I noticed in my 2 lane trek through Montana this week. The locals aren't rich, but they get it done, and were very nice. Gave me some hope for America. I would love to live in Montana, but being an outsider, it really would not work unless we start drilling in MT like they do in Canada or ND. Small business is hard, many times in the areas I travel through, even the old established business is running lean and smart. The only near sure opportunities I see for new entries into the workforce is the Eagle Ford, Bakken, and niobrara. Even then, its still only a matter of time until things cause the world energy biz to bust again... then we can kill one of Tue last industries that makes money for us, by our sweat, will have a massive downsizing.

Its tough out there... kids have been told to get degrees, and then a job. They haven't found jobs "in their field" but there aren't many. They should know better than getting a worthless degree but some still do. I've been fortunate I was able to get a job in oil and gas, but its been a lot of hard work. Most don't want to work hard but there aren't many nine to five jobs that pay well and most don't understand why they aren't entitled to such a job.Life ain't easy. Times suck. We are in bad national debt. Work hard and be a good hand is what I tell my new guys.

2000 and newer are floating rotors. I believe the old ones are a bit rougher. - - - Updated - - - 2000 and newer are floating rotors. I believe the old ones are a bit rougher.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5190-Smarty-UDC!!

I need better friends. Most would rather go golf... plus it was fathers day. But, I am enroute to glacier natl park for some camping and fishing. If we get near you, beer is on me.

I am not sure... But does the sound keep pace with RPM rather than Turbo speed? I think that would be a fairly easy way to eliminate turbo noise. I am concerned it may be a rod bearing, wrist pin, or broken valve spring.

You know that post wrenching beer feeling... at least when you've vanquished your foes and fixed everything you planned on fixing? I don't usually get to work on much, since I live in an apartment about an hour and a half from the well stocked shop and all my tools, welder, and all the associated family stuff. It was fun. Even though the lack of promised trans upgrades were a dissapointment on the new Cummins, I love my new truck. I started vacation this weekend, and I planned two days as truck wrench session. I planned on changing all fluids, putting a wrench on what I can get it on, and give the new rig a through once over. I did run into a couple surprises. Metal chips in the trans pan, my 7 year old Pioneer head gave up the ghost finally, and rubbed a hole in the lower radiator hose. I also figured out why my two power heated towing mirrors didn't work. The previous owner crushed the wiring looms when he put them on, and both sets of wires are cut. The left side is junked, but the right side may be salvagable. I am going to take the truck to the local cummins trans guru and have him put in a billet tq converter and probably a billet input at minimum... though we shall see. I think the previous owner did a number on it judging from the state of the fluid in the pan... On top of the trans wasn't built for the engine that was on it. Fun times! New wheels... gotta decide rubber. Debugging wiring crap Test rig with old speaker for tracing wires... quicker on audio than a multimeter.

Ok John, back from two solid days of wrenching back at the family farm. (the 02 is looking MUCH better though!) 1. I am not sure what the correct ID and OD is, I am pretty sure that it is likely a standard, and could be either measured or just ordered from NAPA. 2. If we look at the data sheet from the first link I posted, it looks like it is recommended for use as heater hose in cars, trucks and buses. See row 3 in the below table. Also, the Parker hose is rated to 350F by itself. Probably not too much more than the stock rubber hose, but it is a silicone hose and may cost similar if you can find a local Parker vendor. [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #010180] [TD] DESCRIPTION[/TD] [TD]ATTRIBUTE VALUE[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PRODUCT TYPE[/TD] [TD]INDUSTRIAL HOSE SILICONE[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]APPLICATION[/TD] [TD]Heater hose for cars, trucks, and buses[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]INSIDE DIAMETER[/TD] [TD]1/2 in. (13mm)[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]REINFORCEMENT BRAIDS[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]OUTSIDE DIAMETER[/TD] [TD]0.815 in. (21mm)[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]WEIGHT[/TD] [TD]16.90 lbs. per 100 ft.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]MINIMUM BEND RADIUS[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]MAX RECOMMENDED WORKING PRESSURE[/TD] [TD]83[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]MAX STEAM WORKING PRESSURE[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]LENGTH[/TD] [TD]50 ft.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]TUBE CORE MATERIAL[/TD] [TD]Silicone[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]COVER MATERIAL[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]COVER COLOR[/TD] [TD]Blue[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]REINFORCEMENT[/TD] [TD]High-temperature-resistant plies[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]TEMPERATURE RANGE[/TD] [TD]-65ºF to 350ºF[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]TRADE/BRAND NAME[/TD] [TD]6722 X-treme Standard-Wall Heater Hose[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]BRANDING[/TD] [TD]PARKER SILICONE SERIES 6722[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]BRAND DESCRIPTION[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PRESSURE RATING[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]VACUUM RATING[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]SAFETY FACTOR[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]INDUSTRY SPECIFICATION[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]FITTING STYLE[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]COUPLED ASSEMBLIES[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]PACKAGING[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]UNSPSC[/TD] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]ADDITIONAL DETAIL[/TD] [TD]STD HEATER HOSE 1/2"X 50' BLUE[/TD] [/TR] [TR=bgcolor: #F3F3F3] [TD]SYNONYM [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] 3. The hose in the first link is the actual hose... The second links are for the fire sleeves that will add a good amount of additional insulation and protection from hot glowing metal and hot air. They won't however, keep the internal hose completely cool. also... I've used the fire sleeves before in race applications, and basically they are just sleeves that you run your hoses in. I think we ran fuel and air lines in them if I recall right. You may be able to even use the fire sleeve on the stock heater hose and save some money while getting pretty good heat protection... Also, below is a list of the parker locations in NC, based from their site. I've used the parker shop near the family farm for years... Swagelok fittings, hydraulic hose, etc... but there may be a better place to find what you need. They have just worked well for me. [TABLE=class: sortable, width: 100%] [TR=class: even] [TD]MEDICAL SYSTEMS DIVISION 1517 IVAC WAY CREEDMOOR NC UNITED STATES 27522 457989 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]CREEDMOOR[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: even] [TD]GEAR PUMP DIV 101 CANTERBURY RD KINGS MOUNTAIN NC UNITED STATES 28086 Ph: (704) 730-2000 Fax: (704) 730-5832 200394 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]Sales Office[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]KINGS MOUNTAIN[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]HYDRAULIC VALVE DIVISION 203 PINE ST FOREST CITY NC UNITED STATES 28043 Ph: (828) 245-3233 Fax: (828) 245-4235 687401 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]Sales Office[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]FOREST CITY[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: even] [TD]INDUSTRIAL HOSE PRODUCTS DIV 465 AIRPORT ROAD SALISBURY NC UNITED STATES 28147 Ph: (704) 637-1190 688929 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]Sales Office[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]SALISBURY[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]PRECISION FLUIDICS DIV 127 SPEEDWAY DRIVE MOORESVILLE NC UNITED STATES 28117 Ph: (704) 662-3500 Fax: (704) 660-9344 400609 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]Sales Office[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]MOORESVILLE[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: even] [TD]SSD DRIVES DIV 9225 FORSYTH PARK DRIVE CHARLOTTE NC UNITED STATES 28273 Ph: (704) 588-3246 Fax: (704) 588-3246 688297 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]Sales Office[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]CHARLOTTE[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]TECHSEAL DIVISION 2600 WILCO BLVD WILSON NC UNITED STATES 27893 A79696 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]WILSON[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]KIT DIVISION 125 EAST MEADOWVIEW ROAD GREENSBORO NC UNITED STATES 27406 687321 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: odd] [TD]Sales Office[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]GREENSBORO[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: even] [TD]NYCOIL 164 POINTE SOUTH DR RANDLEMAN NC UNITED STATES 27317 660932 [/TD] [TD][TABLE] [TR=class: even] [TD]Manufacturing Facility[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [TD]RANDLEMAN[/TD] [TD]NC[/TD] [/TR] [TR=class: even] [TD]FILTRATION AND SEPERATION DOMNICK HUNTER 5900-B NORTHWOODS BUSINESS PLW CHARLOTTE NC UNITED STATES 28269 Ph: (704) 921-9303 Fax: (704) 921-1960[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

For both work and personal I use tier 1 and truck stops only, except in emergencies. I avoid mom & pop gas stops unless I am really in BFE. Chevron, Conoco, Shell, Exxon, Phillips, Flying J, Pilot, etc.

Let me check through it and see... I'm not at my computer today. As for where to get it they usually have either Parker sales shops or Parker dealers around most industrial towns or some farm towns.

Parker.com Or mcmaster.com would be where I'd start. Parker has local stores as well. - - - Updated - - - John, Now that I am not on my phone... Below is 1/2" parker heater hose, silicone std wall. Use this hose and put it inside the firesleeves below. Also, this stuff will work as conduit for electrical or pneumatic lines. [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: column_header_part_list]6722-0500050[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextcatid=2770092&vgnextcat=HEATER%20AND%20COOLANT%20HOSE&vgnextdiv=D45361&vgnextpartno=6722-0500050&Wtky=HOSE They also have "firesleeve" that is a bit more stout. http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextcatid=2770091&vgnextcat=FIRESLEEVE&vgnextdiv=D45361&vgnextpartno=6639-0750032&Wtky=HOSE The brouchure on the firesleeve is at the below link... Rated at temps: Continuous: -65 to +500°F * Intermittent: -65 to +2000°F. Honestly, this stuff should do you, 85psi rating, 500F continous rating... If you have things under your hood over 500F you have some serious heat radiation problems and will want to heat wrap or coat the crap out of those twins. http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.de7b26ee6a659c147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=fcc9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=default&vgnextdiv=687563&vgnextcatid=2633653&vgnextcat=SFS+SERIES+-+SILICONE+FIRE+SLEEVE&Wtky=

:lmao:Yeah, yeah, nobody likes a suck up. Ok. No more making fun of mike for being helpful... Its just odd to find somebody that is so willing to help.

Welcome to the site... MoparMan is a pretty cool dude, not too many Wizards talk to mere mortals, or put their phone number out as a help line!

There are two laws... -The law of Gross Weight. Heavier vehicle wins.The above law has a tie breaker following the damage rule. '-As the car with the most body damage has the right of way. As much as I agree with "move rural" the worst drivers I've ever seen were on the Fort Berthold Indian Reservation north of Dickinson, ND. That local area is mad.

Try unplugging your alternator fuse that powers the fields. There may be some backfeeding of noise going on... My 2000 had similar gremlins, and I think it turned out to be part of the air dog solenoid/relay making noise.

It would be interesting to see how different your truck handles on ice now. I wonder if it may be a bit more loose.

I am not an expert, but I would venture to say that wear and tear on injectors is cumulative. If the truck is ran well, on long hauls and kept within operating temps for long periods with clean fuel, the injectors will have near as makes no difference infinite life span. The springs should be designed for infinite life. The bodies themselves have very little stress. The needles and seats are what will wear out eventually. Wear surfaces cannot be designed for infinite life unfortunately... but in the case of these injectors the surfaces are quite well mated to each other and should last a long time. If there is a lot of carbon in the motor, and there is a lot of water or foreign debris in the injector the injector needle and seat surfaces can be damaged on a microscopic level, and any wear will increase the wear rate of the mating part. I was told by my old Cummins tech that the 1st and 2nd gen poppet style injectors were designed to "break up" and push foreign objects through up to a certain size, but once that debris wears your needle/seat to the point where your injector leaks your timing on that cylinder will be off and you will likely have problems with the engine missing and possibly burning a piston/exhaust valve. 2 stroke oil isn't a fix all, but it certainly doesn't hurt the injectors. The best thing I can gather that helps injectors in all engines is clean fuel and allowing the mixture to be such that the temps are nice and warm, but not super smoky. And if you do get sooty and smoky, be sure to get the EGT temps up to normal operating and cruise that way once in a while to burn off the excess carbon. Not only would this help injectors, but it will clean out the exhaust side of the turbo, valves and manifold with an lean, hot, oxygen heavy mixture. CajFlynn, our resident marathoner is a good example of clean burning, and though I can't say that his success is definitively due to his driving practices, our engines do like being up to temp and to be put under a "normal" load for long hauls rather than to be used to race, pushed too hard, or pushed too little in a 1-2 mile drive daily. I've read that the ISB was originally designed as a generator power supply, and I can say from experience with Cummins genset engines that they will go from cold to 2200 RPM and stay there for decades as long as they are kept away from ether, fed good fuel, and they are even surprisingly resilient to infrequent oil changes compared to some of the Caterpillar motors we see at work. - - - Updated - - - Also, here is some other extraneous info that I recall in case somebody is interested. Gas engines are designed to be run a little bit rich, a wee bit more fuel than air, since spark ignition requires a near ideal mixture to ignite. In theory, you have to meter both the fuel and the air going into a gas engine. In diesels, they were designed to be run lean, as in more air than fuel. Diesels will run with just about any mixture of fuel/air and they are throttled by metering the fuel only... Think about it, you have no butterfly valve in the intake of the diesel like you do with gas. The engine (if intake,turbo,etc. are adequate for the chip,injectors etc.) will suck as much air as it needs to run. It will still run when over fueled, but it will be less efficient and create a lot of soot and heat. This heat in the exhaust is what spins your turbo. The hotter the exhaust temp, the higher pressure there will be in the gases going through the turbo, which will spin the turbo faster. Thus, the faster it spins, the more air gets pushed into the intake, thus lowering the EGT once the turbo spools. The only real downside to diesels, is that when you run an engine lean of peak, is that it creates NOx pollution, the root cause of acid rain. NOx is what EGR combats, as if you run the NOx back through the engine, you can reduce the overall emissions... I am not an "environmentalist..." just sharing what I was taught.

My new truck has a Karr security system in it. I think Karr is out of business, and I can't seem to find a manual and I don't really even know the model of the system, but I want it gone.Any bright Ideas guys? I can upload photos saturday or sunday.

This works on rod end shafts also. If you can get a good safe whack or fifty at the side of the offending part where the tapered shaft goes through you can eventually distort the steel just enough to break the surface weld. This is the only way i've found to get tie rod ends out of some stuff thats been together for 30+ years. There are times I have to use the hammer method on bowen connections at work too... (big threaded connections used for wireline wellhead connections.)

[sheriff Beauford T. Justice] "There just ain't no way..."[/sheriff Beauford T Justice]

I actually like them... I just don't want to pay 450-600 for each tire to get it and have it siped.

Thats stock ride with a leveling kit. They rub in tight turns on non level ground. I have to jump to get in it though, and I am 6'3"

OP, what about a HX35/40 hybrid? I have one on my truck and it seems to run pretty well. Apache, do you have any of the specs for the hybrids out there in your library? I have seen boost up to 48 psi on a cheap glowshift gauge, but I think that with the comp at 5x5 I can push the turbo too far with my injectors. I am not sure what exhaust housing I am using, as I have been away on a .biz trip for the past few weeks. The hybrids can be quite a bit cheaper than some of the other options mentioned, just a thought.

Normal as well. The edge JwA doesn't apply the chip until it gets to 120-130 F if I recall correctly. I seem to recall that there was a setting in the old style attitude controller for this, but I am not sure. It's been a while since I had a Juice.