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When marking the position of the hood hinge use an oil based Sharpie® marker pen. If you scratch into the paint then there is a place for rust to develop. http://www.homedepot.com/b/Sharpie/N-5yc1vZ1d1?cm_mmc=SEM|THD|google|D25H+Sharpie&mid=suY9c2bNi|dc_mtid_8903jx325196_pcrid_89035957957_pkw_%2Bsharpie %2Bpen_pmt_b_product__slid_&gclid=CMj1h9LP1MoCFc1ffgodAgIMvg

Here it's $2.24 to $2.54. Have to love that California road tax.

I think your on to something there. I just got an OEM tail lamp assembly for a Volvo. The original was made in France and the replacement was maid in Taiwan. I'm not sure how it's going to hold up.

It's car owners like this that put my son through college.

There's a couple of guys who's antennas don't go up all the way. The problem is , there's a lot more of them out there.

What kind and how much beer? Is there a sliding scale on beer payment depending on the type of work and if someone helps.

I lucky here. It hardly ever rains, the weather is warm, yesterday it got down to a chilly 53°, and I refuse to work in the mud. When it does rain I stay in my home office and do paper work and filing.

Yesterday I had to order a radiator from a supplier. He didn't have the brand (Cryomax) that I like in San Diego and tried pushing on me something other brand. The last time he sold me 'some other brand' the fittings for the engine oil cooler would not snap in fully and leaked. I told him I'd wait for a Cryomax. He order it out of the Oakland warehouse and I got it this morning. There are different grades of after market parts. The low cheap grade is good for fixing a vehicle getting sold and maximize your profit margin. The middle grade is used by shops and DIY'ers and some times is as good as OEM. OEM is made to the vehicle manufacture's specifications and should last as long as the original part. You have to be careful buying parts on line. There are a lot of Chines knock offs out there. They look almost identical to an OEM part but are made with inferior materials and probably fail in 6mo to a year. Know who the seller is other wise you'll be doing the job twice.

If the manufacturer has a good reputation and the part has a good no fail history then save some bucks and go aftermarket. Ask around and see what others have used.

I 3ed the Fuel Boss. After going through 3 electric fuel pumps ( 1 stock and 2 'campaign' pumps ) and reading about one brand or another of electric pump being good and then not good I went with the mechanical Fuel Boss. I have no more low fuel pressure at WOT just 20psi. One thing though, you will have a code of p0230 fuel pump primary control circuit malfunction due to not having an electric fuel pump running. If you live in a state like I do that does emission tests on diesels having a code in the ECM will fail you. There is a work around for this problem. Mopar1973Man said on another forum to "Hook up a AirDog/FASS relay and the code will vanish." I'm trying to figure out where to hook up the relay.

Being a mobile mechanic I work out side on the ground all year long. I just jack up the vehicle, put some cardboard down and slide under. I do this at peoples' homes in their driveway, parking lots where they work or on the side of the road. I've been doing this for over 21 years with almost no problems.

I was at the recycle yard on Thursday. They're paying 2½¢ a pound for steel. It's not worth hauling it in right now.

That's what photo shop is for.

Try dealing with the Swedish/Ford/Chines Volvo car engineers. The car line use to be fun and E-Z to work on. Now its a $70k rolling peace of processed food waste.

Thanks for the report back. Sounds like you did a great job cleaning the threads up with out a tap. good info about bolt length.

Check out this YOU TUBE video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O557x8hbdW8 If you have the driveshaft down do all the u-joints

I have the same 'E-Z lube' axles with the zerk fitting at the end don't trust them for lubing. I repacked my bearings and checked the brakes after 4 years. Now I just adjust the shoes every year and pull a drum for inspection every other year. Bearing grease still looks good and no wear on the shoes or magnets.

The back side of Yosemite National Park

I not to sure about that. I was told that if you soak it in diesel fuel you could fix just about anything.

I too a look at your list and came up with this: dash pad --------------------------------------------- $260 a/c recharge 2 cans 134A ----------------------- $18 seat switch ------------------------------------------ $80 4 shocks @ $35 each ----------------------------- $140 track bar bushings-----------------------------------$11 control arm bushings 4 sets @ $20 each ----$80 sway bar bushings 4 @ $8 each--------------- $32 2 batteries group 34 @ $100-230 each------$200-460 4 battery hold downs @ 8.50 each------------ $34 2 headlight assemblies @ $71-138 each---- $142-276 2 fog lights------------------------------------------- $30-57 transmission pan and gasket------------------- $45 transmission selector shaft seal ----------------$3 4" exhaust---------------------------------------------$270 BH Air Filter-------------------------------------------$50 front grill------------------------------------------------$62 front bumper cover----------------------------------$36 rear bumper-------------------------------------------$175 2 tow mirrors w/power @ $160 each-----------$320 TOTAL------$2409 That's only $200 a month for a year if you do the work yourself. I found most of the part at Rockauto and Amazon. As for the speakers I'd put in a new sound system.

1: The temp at the starter shouldn't get over 200° so any good epoxy should work. The area has to be clean for it to bond and have it harden for the full cure time. When tightening nut on the stud just snug should do it or you run the risk of breaking the stud loose again. 2: A bolt with a rubber vacuum hose over it would work as a stud with insulator epoxied in to place. 3: AS for the short wire problem see above.

I'd take a short piece of solid 16-18 awg wire and solder that to the broken wire end, then slip a section of heat shrink tubing over it. next clean the area around the hole so the epoxy has a nice surface to bound to. Epoxy the post to the starter housing, let harden, use an epoxy that is for both plastic and metal, 'J B WELD'. Now solder the wire to the bottom of the post. Done, and what do you have to lose but a little time and may save some money. Take a close look at the starter contacts. Do they look a little worn out?

That's great ! I'll be there with may boat. The best time to go there is the first 3 weeks of May or the first 2 weeks of October. Any time between end of May and mid September and the place is not so secret.

JAG1 Get out of the cold and come on down. Lots of food for all! Are you going camping at the secret spot this year?

Try epoxying the terminal to the housing and solder the wire to the terminal.