IBMobile

I stay away from the pumping the break method. I've seen several brake master cylenders go bad. If you are doing a vehicle that hasn't had a brake fluid flush in a long time the brake master cylender bore can have rust and pitting in the area where the seals on the rod never go in normale braking. When you push the brake peddle all the way to the floor, those seals get into that bad area and can get torn. When I have to do it that way, I only go down half way.

You have a 550 Mv draw. Max draw on a good system is about 30 Mv.

Thanks for the info, sounds like a good price.

I use 2 ceramic heaters each on the low setting, 750wt. The low setting is because The main breaker is 30amp. One down in the living area an the other in the bed and bath area. When it,s 25 outside, the inside temp is about 57 in the morning. that's when the main heater gets turned on. Your 5er looks a lot bigger than mine so I'm guessing you have a 50amp box and might take the higher setting on the heater.

Here in San Diego county a half cord of oak is $200 and $20 more to stack it. I work from home, been running a mobile repair businesses for going on 20 yrs. I specialize in Volvo repair.

"Bleh, I'm burning up a 7 gal. propane tank every 3 days or so now this week. Doing the best to keep this darn trailer warm, but its not built like a house! I think I'd rather fight to keep this thing cool instead of warm!" Can You supplement your' heating needs with and electric space heater? That's what I do when I'm camping with hookups.

Trailer looks really good, a fine job looking for details and thinking ahead. To bad about the light. You know she was just trying to help and s#%* happens. :banghead:

Yes I use to own one but 86 it when the pump went out. It works like a garden sprayer. Take the pump out, put brake fluid in the tank to the fill line, put pump back in, pump up the pressure, instal cap with quick disconnect fitting on brake fluid reservoir, attach hose from fluid tank, open bleed valve, open bleeder. Do not over pressurizer. I now use a vacuum bleeder that attaches at each bleed valve and use suction and dot4 fluid with a boiling point of 500f degrees. I can also use the vacuum pump to suck out other fluids, or test air and vacuum solenoids.

Worked out side today in shorts and a sweat shirt. High today 60 with a cool low of 39.

and tastes good too.

The last time I had to shovel snow at my house was NEVER! That way I live in this over regulated, over policed, over taxed, with broken down roads, crappy schools, piece of $#%* state!

You need a good amp meter that is fused (in case of over load) disconnect the negative battery cables, with the amp meter set on the highest scale (20 amps or better) attach the positive lead to the negative battery cable and the negative lead to the negative battery post. If you don't see any reading go to the 500 milliamp setting, if still no reading try the 50 milliamp setting. A reading under 30 milliamps is o'k. When you first complete the circuit you may see a high reading , wait 2-3 sec. the reading should come down. If your' reading a draw of 2-3 amps there's a blub on.

Mine did the same. The hobbs switch is adjustable. There is an adjusting screw under a rubber cap. Turn it clockwise to increase the cut off pressure. I used an ohm meter and the fuel pressure gauge to fine tune it.

What all those codes have in common is the splice for all the ground before they go to the ECM, the wire that goes to the ECM, pin #11 @ the ECM, and the ECM. You tried the other ECM with the same results. I'd be looking at the splice and pin#11 of the connector. You might try garbing the wire harness at the ECM and move it back and forth while the engine is running and see what happens, this shake and see method has worked for me with other engines. The only code that doesn't make sense is PO432 main catalyst efficiency below threshold.

PO532 A/C refrigerant pressure sensor low input.

I don't think it will through a code. With a Fule Boss the hobbs switch opens the ground wire for the electric pump, that would be the same as unplugging it. An open circuit is an on circuit. The wire diagram show power from the ECM but the ground goes to the body/chassis, so no feed back to the ECM to show were the power is going to.

Did you check your fuse for the starter?

The app and temp sensor use the same ground wire at the ECM. The separate ground wires coming from different sensors meet at a splice just before the ECM then one wire goes to the connector for the ECM at pin #11. The ground wire color is black with light blue tracer.

The coolant temp sensor is a variable resistor type. All of the sensors I work with, coolant, oil, or air temp sensors, are the NTP variable type. With this type of sensor as the temp go up the resistance goes down. If you get a poor contact you get high resistance and a lower temp reading. The best way to test the sensor is with an OHM meter. Take reading on cold engine, note the reading, then take a reading at pin #11 (ground, black/light blue wire)and pin #14 (power supply, tan/black) at the ECM connector. If they are the same you may have a bad temp sensor, if the reading at the ECM connector is higher then you have a wire problem. Note: pin #11 is also the ground for the oil pressure, manifold air pressure , water in fuel, and accelerator pedal position sensors. I couldn't find the specks for OHM reading on the sensors so I took a reading of my truck. Cold engine temp 81f degrees (it's a warm day here), 11000 OHMs.

Kidlin88 is right about tranny shops. Find a highly recommended 1 owner shop that's clean. I've had to deal with tranny shops because I haven't done major trans repair for 20 years. I sublet or recommend a shop. I all ways ask for feed back on the repair. I've changed shops a couple of times over the yers because of bad feed back or the owner feeding me a lot of bull. Some shops have called to offer a referral fee if I send customers their way. Those guys you stay away from.

You've got a of of wood there ....... can I have some?

I get my byutle tap from the automotive paint supply store. It's the same stuff I use to in stall car windshields. You can get it in different thicknesses. For a trailer 1/4"-3/8" should do. The stuff gets real sticky and gooey when hot. I use small peaces of what's left over to hold bolts or nuts in sockets for those hard to get at places.

It all depends on the manufacture and grade of pad you use. Some manufactures don't do a good job of quality control.

Flush the brake fluid and power steering fluids.

I'll never use ceramic pads! The cars I work on get the semi-metallic pads. With quality brake pads the rotors will last 2-3 pad changes be for going undersized. With ceramic pad you'll be changing the rotors every pad replacement. Brake manufactures are trying to balance stopping distance,heat dissipation, longevity, dust, and noise.