IBMobile

What all those codes have in common is the splice for all the ground before they go to the ECM, the wire that goes to the ECM, pin #11 @ the ECM, and the ECM. You tried the other ECM with the same results. I'd be looking at the splice and pin#11 of the connector. You might try garbing the wire harness at the ECM and move it back and forth while the engine is running and see what happens, this shake and see method has worked for me with other engines. The only code that doesn't make sense is PO432 main catalyst efficiency below threshold.

PO532 A/C refrigerant pressure sensor low input.

I don't think it will through a code. With a Fule Boss the hobbs switch opens the ground wire for the electric pump, that would be the same as unplugging it. An open circuit is an on circuit. The wire diagram show power from the ECM but the ground goes to the body/chassis, so no feed back to the ECM to show were the power is going to.

Did you check your fuse for the starter?

The app and temp sensor use the same ground wire at the ECM. The separate ground wires coming from different sensors meet at a splice just before the ECM then one wire goes to the connector for the ECM at pin #11. The ground wire color is black with light blue tracer.

The coolant temp sensor is a variable resistor type. All of the sensors I work with, coolant, oil, or air temp sensors, are the NTP variable type. With this type of sensor as the temp go up the resistance goes down. If you get a poor contact you get high resistance and a lower temp reading. The best way to test the sensor is with an OHM meter. Take reading on cold engine, note the reading, then take a reading at pin #11 (ground, black/light blue wire)and pin #14 (power supply, tan/black) at the ECM connector. If they are the same you may have a bad temp sensor, if the reading at the ECM connector is higher then you have a wire problem. Note: pin #11 is also the ground for the oil pressure, manifold air pressure , water in fuel, and accelerator pedal position sensors. I couldn't find the specks for OHM reading on the sensors so I took a reading of my truck. Cold engine temp 81f degrees (it's a warm day here), 11000 OHMs.

Kidlin88 is right about tranny shops. Find a highly recommended 1 owner shop that's clean. I've had to deal with tranny shops because I haven't done major trans repair for 20 years. I sublet or recommend a shop. I all ways ask for feed back on the repair. I've changed shops a couple of times over the yers because of bad feed back or the owner feeding me a lot of bull. Some shops have called to offer a referral fee if I send customers their way. Those guys you stay away from.

You've got a of of wood there ....... can I have some?

I get my byutle tap from the automotive paint supply store. It's the same stuff I use to in stall car windshields. You can get it in different thicknesses. For a trailer 1/4"-3/8" should do. The stuff gets real sticky and gooey when hot. I use small peaces of what's left over to hold bolts or nuts in sockets for those hard to get at places.

It all depends on the manufacture and grade of pad you use. Some manufactures don't do a good job of quality control.

Flush the brake fluid and power steering fluids.

I'll never use ceramic pads! The cars I work on get the semi-metallic pads. With quality brake pads the rotors will last 2-3 pad changes be for going undersized. With ceramic pad you'll be changing the rotors every pad replacement. Brake manufactures are trying to balance stopping distance,heat dissipation, longevity, dust, and noise.

I was able to incorporate the studs into the design of my home made heat shield/cold air box. If you don't need to use them then yes, cap them off so they don't damage your' air filter and if you need to reinstall the stock air box they're still there.

I left mine in place to bolt my shield also. I made my shielding from a heat shield that is used under a BMW that keeps the catalytic converter from burning the car down.

The wire that is tapped in those picks is the tan wire that goes to fuse #5. If you tap that wire you will need to put an inline fuse between the gauges and head light switch.

Use either wire for the hot (+) side of the blub. It's a DC system so it doesn't mater. I took my power of the orange wire at fuse #5. That fuse is after the light dimmer switch. Wired that way you will be able to dim the light and it will have a 5amp fuse protecting the circuit. This is how I did my 4 gauges.

Diesel4life is right. All the transmissions I see go bad after a flush have been neglected, never serviced. If you service it on a regular time/mileage interval you should see a long and trouble free life from it. The newer transmissions that service don't have a pan, just a cover over the electric shift solenoids and a drain plug on the trans' case. I wouldn't remove the valve body unless you were going to replace it. To check the line pressure you need an oil/transmission pressure 300psi gauge with a 6' or longer hose and the proper fitting for the trans, this is best left to do at a repair shop. There are 5 different ports to test at and it is a long procedure.

It sounds like the line pressure is low, could be due to bad fluid and/or internal seals and o-rings leaking. As the fluid heats up it thins out and goes around the worn seals and o-rings. I've fixed several cars and my own shop van by just taking the pan off, adjusting the bands, changing the filter, and refilling with Lucas and trans fluid. My shop van would shutter at freeway speed going up hills after driving for 50mi, the t/c clutch was slipping, that when it had 235k. It now has 285k. I wouldn't do a complete flush on it. I've had several cars towed in with bad trannies after a complete flush at a "lube and tune" shop.Why this happened I'm not sure but trans fluid is very high in detergent.

Splitting oak, pine, and eucalyptus. With a little help.

It's hard to shift in to all gears so what do they all have in common. Fluid, if low you with no could have hard shifting and worn bearings but it's been like that for 2yrs and no worn bearings, and you replaced the fluid with no improvement. you replaced the stock hydro's with some improvement, this is the clutch slave and master I take it. The only things that are left are the t/o bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk, and pilot bearing. I think the tranny need to come out and have those components inspected. "The pilot bearing supports the transmission inputshaft, maintains proper clutch assembly alignmentand allows the transmission input shaft to rotate at adifferent speed (RPM) than the engine mountedcrankshaft.When the clutch pedal is depressed (with vehicle indrive mode) the clutch disc slows and stops therefore,the transmission input shaft slows and stops as well.The pilot bearing allows the engine crankshaft tocontinue to rotate even though the transmissioninput shaft is stationary". page 6-18 of the repair manual

I still live here in the land of fruits and nuts. I should've gone in to the body shop business, I would've made a killing the way they play bumper cars on the road. Speed limit 65mph, everyone is going 75-80 with 1 to 2 car lengths between them. Front man puts on the binders and 3-4 cars go to the body shop. When it rains, just stay of the road. I try to drive in the slow lane and go 60: 1 I'm not in a hurry, 2 I save gas, 3 I have a commercial license and a ticket means double points on my record higher fine and no driving school to knock it off my record, 4 it pisses of the crazy drivers who want to use the slow lane as a way to pass the other cars that are only going 70. My wife got a ticket for 90 in a 70 zone. She said no way she could have been going that fast, right, that's way she drives a turbo Volvo.

Years ago a customer's car was towed in after hitting a dog. He said the dog was laying down in the road as if it had already been hit. The damage was a bent cross member, a broken power steering rack, engine and transmission pans bent into the oil pump and valve body respectively. It was a new Volvo with factory undercoating, dog hair was stuck all over the bottom of that car.

Did you lube the sides be fore you went through?

I agree. If the tranny fluid temp is 150, at the oil pan, than the fluid going to the pump is 150 whether if it coming from a 4qt pan or a 5gal pan. It takes longer to heat up more oil but conversely it takes longer to cool off. As for the heatsink aspect of the pan, the cooling fins would have to be a lot longer, more surface area, to be effective. An additional trans cooler, I think, would be more efficient because of the larger surface area.

I mainly use the truck to tow my 5er with the boat behind that, It's not my daily driver. As far a extra mileage goes I only took one trip in 04 with out it, I think my mileage was about 10mpg and any little hill the trans would kick down. After putting the EZ, boost elbow, and 4" exhaust on the trans doesn't kick down as much and the top end going up hills went from 55mph to over 65mph. I know now that going camping with a head or quartering wind 10mpg, with out 11.5-12mpg, and going home 13-13.5mpg. There are a lot more down hills going home.