JAG1

ULSD and CJ-4 oils not good for older trucks which is required by EPA. Only thing you can do is add 2 cycle oil to the fuel and then buy the right oil only available in bulk now which is CI-4 oil (good stuff). Then just the requirement of ULSD jumped the cost above what gasoline cost and there is still twice or more the amount of diesel fuel in a barrel of oil as there is gasoline. Then they are ruining mileage numbers with all the required smog devices on newer diesel engines. Seems rediculious since you end up burning more fuel to get to going to the same place. It just boils down to where a guy feels more and more pinched out of his freedom of having a good workable pick up with , long lasting engine and a great big smile. It's As though whatever little bit of freedom is still left in our lives they start taxing it or messin' with it to cost more.

Clamping down on our freedom to drive what we want.

Would you just recommend P pumping it? I ask because it seems EPA is putting the clamps on us older truck owners withoutthe mileage killer smog devices. Any thoughtsAre there any other options?

Thanks Driply and Mopar I realize, but was wondering too if anyone knew the amount of flow the ISB engine is capable of. Like say 90 gallons per hour. If that's true then I need to go the next filter size up.Also where is that spring and ball on a raptor 100. Don't know how I get so lost and don't understand. I think my head's all bone sometimes:banghead:

Since this job can be a tough one I want the best ball joints I can get. Been reading a lot in searches and the Dynatrac seems to have the best reports over moog and even Carli brands. Carli does not make them for the 2002 Ram and the dynatrac site does not say anything about them except 03 and up years:shrug:.So what brand is best everyone? There is another good one too called XRF brand, I believe, so any infopinions are greatly accepted around my question. Thanks a bunch:).

I case anyone is interested it is a Racor filter set up next to the tank. Racor is designed work only on the suction side of the fuel system to help the lift pumps and everything else down the line.

So your saying that spring is not on the Raptor 100 since the return line does not run thru like yours? Is that right. Another question is why I'm seeing sometimes as much as a 5 p.s.i. drop at wot. Would a 60 gallon per hour pre filter cause that? I can change to 90 gal. per hour filter easy enough. BTW, I do have the Vulvan big lines all the way from the big draw straw to the vp. Thanks for opinions too:hyper:

You might try Googling ' Dodge Ram steering column bearings' I know there is a vendor that has a video out about a weak factory bearing inside the steering column. It's located on the engine side of the column tube. He said if you can reach down and pull on the steering shaft right where it comes out of the column tube, and has excessive play, you need this aftermarket bearing upgrade.Wish I had saved that link now.

My fuel filter next to the tank has a clear bowl and drain on the bottom, you can see when it's time to drain the bowl.

Not bad after adding a quart of TCW 3. Truck still runs like new, except that 12 valve can tell a difference between brands of the 2 cycle oil.

Can valves be way out of wack with 350k miles and never a valve adjustment? That's my work truck, 92 ctd and has light grey smoke but not real bad.

Coolest funniest thing I've seen in years.... many thanks.

Hello from Beavercreek, oregon. Across the country. Everyone is good folks on here too.

I like Racor's water seperating fuel filter as a prefilter before the lift pump. It has a clear bowl on the bottom so you can see if the fuel is bad and drain it off with the little drain valve if needed. I know this has helped the stock filter to not get overloaded with dirt and water and then the AD100 probably likes the cleaner fuel too.Only draw back is Racor filters are not cheap, but pretty sure they are very good filters.... if anyone else has heard different please comment.

So slow you can't find the leak but still need to put in more air every two weeks?Maybe that's why they want to sell the on board compressor too:shrug:

I've been wanting to hear if you found the problem. Please post what you find. Sometimes just a lucky accidental bump while looking around can show where the problem is. Helps to have someone watching for a flicker of life in those gauges while you jiggle things around.

I hate it when a business acts like that.... not even enough common courtesy to give you some info. I once inquired about buying some UHMW plastic from a company for a special application. The lady was rude, quoted a very high price and hung up on me while I was still talking. That bothered me so one day when I was in that area on a sunday I stopped by their dumpster. According to this lady and her prices, so far, I have found about 850 dollars worth just goin pickin' Someday I need to send her a thank you card.

Stop that whistling... it sounds like my turbo:)

Jim, I appreciate your experience. I was also not aware of the XE series Wix filters. I only saw a flimsier carton than before and then no plastic cover. The carton opened so easily when you picked it up off the shelf. What if something got in there? Anyhow, I hope for your sake the box is a bit stronger on the ones your using. The ones I got were almost like grocery bags and could easily fall out and get dirty.Then one day I grabbed a Wix fuel filter, took it out of the box, can't remember if thats in plastic, but, it said made in Bangeledesh WTH, I thought!

This just my opinion about Wix filters.... I don't think Wix are as good as they used to be. I stay with FleetGuard or Baldwin filters.The Wix has a flimsey package now... almost as thin as a grocery bag and I noticed that dirt can get into a new filter that way since it isn't sealed up well, a clog an oil galley which can make cause for an engine rebuild. I don't think alot of a company that doesn't care enough to keep the filters properly sealed.

I just had Source Automotive install a new F/P gauge. It runs fuel thru a needle valve up to an isolator where air then runs up to the gauge and the gauge reads air pressure. I think the air line part is under a preset air pressure tested and adjusted by the manufacturer. Think that's how it is on the new ones now.

In situations like these I sometimes wonder if it would be better to just remove the factory gauges, drill the right sized holes for good aftermarkets and start building your own gauge cluster. A guy could also make the dash more easily removable. Major remodel but oh so cool looking like a real truck dash. Most likely a pipe dream...... sorry I cannot help except my gut tells me there is just one problematic connection somewhere, key to getting your gauges running again.

I like Tractor Supply and I'll call them Thanks a bunch.

Where is this check ball / spring thing-a-ma-bob? If ya' don't mind me askin'? I think I know, but, wanna' make sure.

Thanks everyone.... it made a mess for a short while till tilted up higher. Hate that :banghead:.Oh boy did my 12 valve ever thank me tonight for that non CJ OIL. Sounds lots smoother.I paid 68 bucks for each 5 gallon bucket at TARR OIL in Portland, Oregon.I'm going for a pump of some sort to make it easy. However, I did find rubber hose about the right size to screw onto the threads that the cap screws to, just like a gas can spout, didn't leak after that.Thanks for the tip for a transfer pump.Dripley, that oil's so good I put it in my wifes car after I'm done with it:lmao: