CUMMINSDIESELPWR

i have both sway bars off for years now and i dont miss them. i took them off for less stress during articulation while rock crawling in colorado. havent had any issues with driveability

where i got mine from for my rebuild http://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/94-02-cummins-vacuum-pump-reseal-kit.html

i have duratracs and im impressed with them in all seasons

the ash tray area inside and up under the top, cant see the switch and if anyone didnt know it was there they wouldnt suspect it as you cant see it from driver seat. open ashtray reach a finger up top inside and flip it.

jordan, dont forget to mention that the engine is studded and possibly oring'd with big sticks. probably 200-250+hp sticks... at 70mph he is still smoking out the tail so he needs a big turbo which will have too much lag and not streetable, or twins which is perfect...

keep beating on it like it owes you money. and dont be gentle.

anyone have pics of this bushing in the housing?

my old hubs were bonded to the carriages and the steering trick didnt work for me so i spent 5 hours with a 5lb hammer and heat to get the hub out. in the end i ruined the hub.. but when i put new ones in i did the antisieze grease to them so i wont have that issue again...

until murphy decides to let it get loose and get sucked in, sticking a valve open trashing a piston, connecting rod, crank... just sayin. i wouldnt run the truck with anything in it that could even in the most unlikely event come loose and trash an engine. killer dowel pin come to mind?

i would seriously just get a used head, have it worked over and cleaned, slap it on with a new headgasket. will be much easier fix than a serious issue waiting to happen. you will forever be stressed about that nut if you dont get a good head.

the way i remove fan clutch, propane torch on the nut that threads onto the pulley to get it hot and expanded, put the fanclutch tool on and give it a good solid whack clockwise to release nut and it spins off. do it with belt on everytime

to test the overflow valve, take it off and simply try to blow into it. if you cant push air past the check ball then it is seating. to test if its functioning properly hook a compressor tip to the end and see if it opens up past 14psi. if it opens sooner its faulty. its just a steel ball spring loaded to keep backflow from happening and draining the system

random thought, have you checked the return line check valve to make sure its closing properly? they open at 14psi but can stick open on worn ones causing no pressure at pump, especially with oem lift pump

i stand corrected

oem lift pumps are junk. toss it and get a strong lift pump. I recommend a fuel boss mechanical, others will recommend an electrical. Up to you. both are gonna be around the same price. I like the fuel boss as it is not prone to failure from all the electrical stuff on the other pumps. plus it increases fuel flow and psi when rpm goes up. it is simple and reliable. But most of all dont run that replacement VP44 without a good lift pump, eventually its life will come to a short end as the first one did. my fuel boss runs around 18-20 psi idle and normal driving goes up to ~24psi. when i hammer down i cant get it below 18-20psi. you need something that will sustain over 14psi to keep fuel flowing through vp44 to ensure proper cooling.

drum brakes can take a lot more abuse and offer more braking force when towing loads. Because they can take a lot of abuse they will overheat fast but not fail as fast as a disc brake would with same load. Why you dont see disc brakes on semi's. With the combination of engine/exhaust braking while hauling/towing, either brakes will do fine.

ive never broken one but running 35" tires while crawling on rock in colorado, i dont want to take a chance. I dont hammer down on things but peace of mind knowing i have strong parts is nice

the spicer non grease joints are drilled just a hair to fit more grease in. they are inherently stronger than the spicer greasable as those are drilled through plus the nipple hole (makes them weaker) but they are still tough as hell. i go spicer products all the time, dana makes them and have so for many years.

i had this happen to me as well, i removed battery terminal and let it cool down. i rebuilt the bad one and its been working fine since

for me if you are not doing extreme offroading, get the spicer ujoints with the grease nipple. I do a lot of offroading and want the extra strength so i go with the non greaseable ujoints. the non greaseable usually last about 100,000 miles. I personally go with Spicer ujoints all around, steering wheel ujoints, front driveshaft ujoints, rear driveshaft ujoints.

updated i had a thought to get a database kinda of egt temps while running at a certain speed to see where we all stand compared to each others different setup. also to assist in baselining some info. Mainly its to get an idea of EGTs with each setup. If you have a gauge post up, if not dont guess. (this isnt a competition, its to help all of us out) I will start... @70mph my egts are appx 750F no headwind and outside temp about 75 deg @65mph my egts are appx 620F slight crosswind temp 70 35" tires 6th gear nv5600 stock setting RV275 injectors HX35 level road surface NO load

when i did my rebuild i soaked the intercooler and radiator with simple green and used a hose nozzle to clean out the fins individually. took a while and i was soaked but it was fun and it got perfectly cleared out. no fast way of doing it though but will help temps on everything!

got the lights up top adjusted and damn these things throw real good! i can see so far down the road im not taken off guard by anything now

http://www.carid.com/2001-dodge-ram-off-road-lights/carr-deluxe-light-bars-36189090.html