CUMMINSDIESELPWR

two people is recommended to swap a tranny, they are heavy and wonky. my nv5600 was a beast to manhandle as it was close to #500 w/xfer case

ill be making calls monday and get this taken care of

the engine lugged for too long and bearings started making metal which clogged a couple cooler jets and #6 got very hot to where the piston scored the bore. i think the injector got damaged from this. ill replace it

very tight budget, i am unemployed right now and funds are very low.. the engine is fine, i just think the injector is bad.

Ladies and gents, i need to ask if anyone has a RV275 injector in good working order new/used they want to sell or give away? I think #6 may have been damaged when the cylinder got too hot. Please let me know as soon as possible, pm me if you do. thank you all for your help! randy

so good news and some little bad news. got the engine in, hooked up enough to run (no cooling system or intercooler) good oil pressure, didnt check for blowby yet as i still heard a bit of injector knock on #6 i believe. So i am going to swap #6 with #1 and see if it moves and if it does i need to get another rv275. If it doesnt move, i will just break it in. Does anyone have a single rv275 they have lying around they want to sell? It is the only thing that is still "original" to that cylinder and i think it may have been damaged when it broke down.

i liken it to cummins red... closest i could find in short notice

i dwell in a man cave :D hahaha so if i dont take into account the machine shop, it took 4 days to pull the engine/strip it down and 4 days to rebuild (bearings didnt arrive till late monday afternoon) So about 2 weeks on my part and a week and half at the machine shop. but during the wait time i cleaned everything i could. so i will have a new engine and new turbo (all rebuilt of course) this truck is gonna have some nuts now! and yes im going to make a set of truck nuts out of my old pistons. im gonna take the ruined one and make a gearshift out of it more than likely.

i take this as a good thing but never heard the phrase before so i dont get it lol

mainly the rear seal if worn, front main as it grooves the seal journal of the crank, i did a cummins genuine speedy sleeve on mine and the seal is a bit bigger to accomodate the sleeve. other areas are the oil pan rim, the interface of the oil pan to the rear main seal housing and oil pan to the front gear case housing. that is mostly where my engine was "weeping" from. edit add: when factory builds the engines they just slap a gasket on and call it good. there are a couple places they use rtv 4 to be exact, 2 spots on the rear main seal plate to block interface and 2 spots on the front gear cover to block mating surfaces, the last is the gearcase cover (mine had rtv and no gasket) I used shellac on both sides of ALL gaskets and i am confident oil will have a hard time getting through the seams now. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--high-tack--gasket-sealant-detail

possible map sensor going out? when cold it isnt reading properly perhaps?

now to stuff it in the truck tomorrow

tall block assembled and valve adjustment performed (thanks Mike for the article!) Now to paint tomorrow cummins red and a lime green valve cover with red stenciling.

PM sent yabbadoo

Hey guys and gals, anyone interested in a free oil cooler gasket for early 2nd gen models? It came with my gasket kit and i only need the later 24v model gasket. free shipping. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/14-oil-cooler-gasket/

anyone interested in once used factory 24v head bolts? i have a complete set i can ship for free

i got spare parts i dont need/cant use front main replacement seal kit http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/13-spare-parts/ 12v 2nd gen oil cooler gasket http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/item/14-oil-cooler-gasket/ mike, if this shouldnt be here let me know and do what you need to do. figured to stick the info here as well.

short block completed front gear cover installed. tomorrow will be rear main, oil pickup, oil pan, vacuum pump. Possibly the head as well depending if help is here or not. then onto the hoist for the tranny adapter and flywheel/clutch sat its gonna happen!

bearings arrived today, piston/conrod/rings assembled and clean. everything is ready for a final dust off and inspection then i lay bearings and start the short assembly. wed or thur ill lay the head and torque and complete the assembly to where all i have to do is hoist it into the truck and bolt it up. i also cleaned and rebuilt the vacuum pump, it was real easy to do. cleaning was a pain though...

mike i made an article under the right section with this vid, if you want to hard copy it to the web server you have my permission. can you verify it completed the article, thanks.

this was my spring holder for the job, 16penny nails pushed through cardboard

i made a video! took appx 13 minutes per valve set http://youtu.be/BpSH_BzKq6k

rebuild starts Monday when bearings arrive. this weekend will be prepwork and preassembly. i should have it back in the truck on the 11th, perform break-in and then oil change @500mi then move to florida yaaay

yup

timing settings from factory take into account the crank rotation in degrees it takes for the injector to pop at a specific pressure. if you have one that pops too easy then the injection would be advanced on just that one, or if one that pops at a higher pressure would pop later would retard the timing of combustion relative to crank position. Having all injectors pop within a given pressure ensures injection timing to be stable and correct. of course all this happens in a blink of an eye...