CUMMINSDIESELPWR

ok so when i installed the drums, i cleaned them well on the braking surface with brake cleaner. everything went together correctly, the parking levers are in correct and the main parking cable link is adjusted to "take out slack" to where within a couple inches the parking lever really starts to bite good. ive only put about 20 miles on the new shows and drums and i can only get the parking brakes to hold on a incline either facing up or down about 80-90%, basically the truck still will not completely hold its own weight with parking brake. how long will it take to bed the shoes into the drums and get them to hold? the star wheel is adjusted properly to where the shoes start grabbing with no brake or parking brake applied and the cables are adjusted properly. it will hold good enough on level ground to almost stall the engine but i remember when the parking brakes would hold the truck by themselves on an incline with no issues. and so its known, i have new: shoes shoe springs cables wheel cylinders parking brake levers i refurbished as i cant find them anywhere any help is appreciated.

im running 35" tires and original steer gear with the inverted t steering mod. the brace really helped tighten things up and keep the stress off the pitman side of the steering gear saving things. eventually though i still need to replace the steering gear but ill still keep the brace and refurbish it. it was worth it for me trail riding and such with oversize tires

i need a friend like this

mike is turning into a millennial country boi lol "I GOTS MUH TOWMERRZ OUT YO" those are nice though for hauling a camper

mine does this, and i know its the rear turbo seal as it wasnt doing it before i had the turbo rebuilt, after rebuild it was doing it.

today, filled the front diff, took 8 pints total. greased all balljoints, steering linkages and steering brace bearing. torqued steering tie rods, installed new batteries buttoned up the fuel filler hoses. put 12 gallons of fuel in, started him up, took a few seconds to prime since i had the lines off and drained (the the fuelboss) once it got fuel it lit up and idled smooth. started testing brakes at pressure while running and on stands. abs brake was still lit so i checked for any weeps/leaks. found the rear line coming off the proportioning valve needs to be tightened some more and the banjo bolts on the front calipers needed more tightening (never overtighten, torque till it holds and doesnt leak or they break). once those were good i shut the truck down and restarted, normal lights cycled and the abs brake cycled twice as it balanced itself out, then cleared and hasnt come back. tomorrow i take him off the stands and test drive for safety check and ensure parking brake actually holds lol now to clean the garage.....

yesterday i got all the mainlines on the axles and in the engine bay attached and secured along with the braided soft lines front back. had to work the bleeders out of the calipers with some heat and a 6pt socket, then chase threads with a tap and die, they are like new now. all i got to do is put 3 hose clamps on the filler neck tubes, fill the front diff with fluid, fill brakes and power bleed when the adapter gets here (another story on its own...)

rear drums fully installed, rustoleum primed and painted to mitigate rust, parking brake adjusted initially and it works!!!!!!!! pedal gets hard about half way like it should. all that is left is install brake hardlines, install hose clamps on filler neck tubes and tighten fuel tank straps then once my adapter arrives put brake fluid in and power bleed! once bled ill readjust parking brake to get it where it should be.

trying to figure out parts when two hands are in the mix making stuff isnt fun... lol luckily i got the right seals on my rear axle when i did them long ago. they are still good too.

front axles installed and hubs lubed with antisieze and rtv to mitigate as much corrosion as possible, it worked last time. everything torqued and just need cotter pins. tomorrow is install front rotors and calipers, then assemble the rear brake sets.

i have the nv5600 as well and i rarely use brakes aside to come to a complete stop. up in colorado coming down from the steep miles long grades on I70, i wouldnt use brakes at all and just keep the exhaust on while cruise control on and it would modulate itself no problem at whatever speed i set. at 216,000 miles im still on original front rotors and calipers, pads i replaced once but rust got the brake lines and im overhauling the brake system and replacing hubs (one cheepo failed)

HAHAHAHAHA who dropped the soap

so today i got the front dana 60 resealed and diff cover sealed up proper this time. used allthread and a holesaw with the teeth cut off for the seal press. worked like a champ! getting the diff out was tricky, a rag wedge between the pinion and ring gear broke it mostly free then some gentle love with a 5lb deadblow and a prybar got it out. next to assemble the rear drums, cables and front axle, then run the rest of the brake lines, fill and power bleed, then before i put it on the road fill the front diff up (rtv will have cured well by then) and test it out. should be done by end of next week.... hopefully....

hugs for everybody! i think to better surmise the comparison, mechanical pumps have a higher propensity to last longer if not many times longer than electric pumps.

used my power siphon to empty the tank, friend came over and we dropped the tank. it was surprisingly light. removed old mainline on frame, installed new line on frame and reinstalled fuel tank. now to button up the connections and get working on the front axle reseal.... then when the correct cable arrives from nappy auto parts (correct box part number, wrong part in box) i can get the brakes reinstalled, power bled and finished. be done in a couple weeks... ********************************************* does anyone have these clips handy? they are the anti vibration clips between the brake hardlines in the engine bay Genuine Mopar Control Valve Clip 52008940 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Mopar-Control-Valve-Clip-52008940/303476030711?epid=1927436362&hash=item46a894bcf7:g:f18AAOSwGPFePMuT

sources of oil consumption oil rings valve seals turbo seal on intake and exhaust side sounds like your issue is same as mine, the exhaust side turbo seal is worn or bad and even though you dont see it burning oil after startup it still is burning oil. my turbo was "rebuilt" by a shop in colorado for $400 but i think they jipped me and reused stuff as it burns a lot of oil and now i have to rebuild it myself. i wouldnt try a different oil as im sure its not your rings, i would look at the turbo and rebuild it first then see how much it drinks. thats my opinion.

if you need links to repair parking brake parts i got em, im overhauling my entire brake system and parking brakes now.

yeah, i expected that but the final parts will be here end of the week and i can get him back on the road with all new brakes and a resealed front axle! i sourced from advance auto napa sstubes.com<---good to work with torqueking<----also good to work with rock auto then its on to the bmw for maintenance....

i racked my brains about the rear axles and what haggar said is correct. auto is the 70's for 2500 anything manual is the 80's for 2500/3500 http://dodgeram.org/tech/specs/Ramspecs.htm for some specs look at the diff cover images to identify the axle here https://torqueking.com/category/1994-2002-dodge-ram-2500-ram-3500-rear-axle/

check grounds and terminals on batteries for cleanliness. start there.

i can confirm the fuel boss has basically no pressure when cranking but at idle mine does around 15-19 and at speed its 20-25. never had a cold or hot start issue but glad the pump is being warrantied, it happens sometimes given that they are all rebuilt pumps with or without new electronics. even electronics arent perfect out of the box.

ccv mod keeps your radiator clean from the crank ventilation from factory $20 will save you a sh!t ton of money in the long run and a cleaner truck...

when i picked mine up in colorado in 2009, it was a ranch truck 150,000 miles. i was second owner. steering was loose and the filter looked original i was surprised it pulled air through... i traded my 2001 1500 5.9Lv8 gasser for it, and then financed the rest. but this truck was hard to find even used at the time with a 6spd and diesel. so far what ive repaired on it.... injection pump $1600 lift pump $600 tuner $600 front ujoints $150 drive shaft support bearing $150 complete brake overhaul (minus front calipers and rotors) $1000 clutch replacement $1500 engine rebuild $4500 both front hubs $290 rear diff seal $150 front axle seals $30 complete steering linkage replaced $350 track bar x 2 (i wore them out rock crawling with 35"s) $300 bhaf air filter with sock (still in top shape) $75 CCV mod (thanks moparman!) $20 driver door replacement (rusted out on the bottom) $150 batteries x infiniti.... haha $220 35" tires x5 tires $1600 im sure im forgetting something.... things still to be done replace steering gear $300 upgrade to 3rd gen trackbar $500 replace transfer case seals $?? eventually replace the rusting bed in 20 or less years with a aluminum flatbed $a lot reseal the cab (new door gaskets) $50 new headlights $??? luckily my frame is in top shape, no rust just dirty. the axles could use a sandblasting to get the surface rust off and then painted. just got to keep up on things to make them last. id rather have a vehicle that i know will run and is paid off and i can fix it than a new vehicle every 10 years and forever in debt.

all parts ordered and awaiting shipment, then time to get to work on the truck yaay

i will agree, airdog was great then went crap and hopefully is good again, if someone wanted electric. i was done with electric being a weak link in the chain and opted for mechanical, but its weak link is the belt which would take something extraordinary to break. if you have something that works, no point in replacing for sure. the dtt looks like a internal gear pump and i know the fuel boss is an external fuel pump, both are positive pressure pumps though :D that dtt looks nice though